Climbing Guide to Whickham Boulder

Whickham Thorns Boulder © Steve Crowe 2010
Whickham Thorns Boulder © Steve Crowe 2010

Situated off Market Lane, Dunston, Gateshead, Whickham Boulder was the first man made outdoor boulder park in Britain was made by Enterprise for Whickham Thorns Outdoor Activity Centre. Officially opened in October 1998 the boulder park has proved extemely popular with top climbers, regular boulderers and novices alike. The boulder enjoys a sunny aspect and its use is free and unrestricted.

Access and Approaches
Just off the A1 Western By Pass opposite Gateshead Metro Centre. Take the Dunston/Whickham exit then turn south to the traffic lights where you need to turn right. Park in the Whickham Thorns Activity Centre car park. The boulder park is easily reached in less the a minute from the car park. 

Climbing at Whickham Boulder © Steve Crowe 2010
Climbing problem two at Whickham Boulder © Steve Crowe 2010

Bouldering Etiquette
Using an old towel or rag to keep your boots squeeky clean makes good sense, it can even make the problems feel easier. NO WIRE BRUSHING & NO RESIN. Nylon brushes acceptableto brush chalk and pebbles from the holds.

Grading
The grading system used here was first used by the French for the bouldering in Fontainbleau near Paris and is becoming increasingly popular with climbers in the UK. 

Steve Crowe climbing at Whickham Thorns Boulder © Steve Crowe 2010
Steve Crowe climbing at Whickham Thorns Boulder © Steve Crowe 2010

The Problems
The boulder is one complex cirque. The problems are described from left to right first around the outside, then returning around the inside. All the problems finish on the top. Finally some traverses are described, these are given sport route grades. The first climb described tackles the left edge of the east face and is one of the nearest problems to the approach path.

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Click the image above to view the Whickham Thorns Mini Guide (PDF).