A collection of recent climbing trips to the North East Outcrops by Steve Crowe and Karin Magog.
I was recovering from a shoulder injury when we decided to explore somewhere new. I had climbed once in Glen Clova way back in 1980s and had enjoyed a sunny February afternoon rock climbing at Pass of Ballater after retreating from a white out on Lochnagar in 1990s so it was long overdue time for a revisit. We really enjoyed our exploits and ended up making multiple trips to the North East Outcrops but mostly the sea cliffs discovering many great places to climb. Timing the tide and catching the best wind direction combined with ideal humidity, all while avoiding nesting birds can be challenging. Abseiling in to a small tidal ledge to start your chosen challenge requires a precision not needed in the mountains. Just finding the top of the crag itself can often be tricky enough.
Elephant Rock
Situated on the coast just south of Montrose, the sport climbing at Elephant Rock was a convenient place to start my comeback. Karin and I spent two days there. We arrived in the late afternoon and enjoyed the climbing but were hampered by greasy conditions and the rising tide so we decided to return early the following morning when we found a dry and sunny crag with low tides. We enjoyed some superb 6’s and are psyched to return for some of the burly grade 7’s on another trip.
Stonehaven
Stonehaven is a pretty place with all the shops and cafes that you’ll need for a rest day. Our regular haunt was The Old Pier Coffee House overlooking the harbour. Between Stonehaven and Aberdeen is a chain of small steep sea cliffs with positive holds and powerful climbing. We spent most of our recent trips exploring these with the assistance of local experts but especially Neil Morrison whose advice was invaluable.
Drab Crag
Drag Crag is a sunny venue with a reputation for poor rock but it only deteriorates near the top so setting up a static rope off the fence above before you start is a good idea. Solar Eclipse E1 5a is a pleasant looking slab and does make a good warm up but be warned it’s at you right from the start. There are half a dozen good climbs mostly E1 and if they all go okay then you could consider the well protected Vespa Vulgaris E3 with it’s powerful start and a powerful finish too. The crag is situated just a couple of minutes from the popular Yellow Crag.
Yellow Crag, Clochindare
The sunny Yellow Crag has become more popular since the addition of a clutch of fine sport routes. However, Karin and I were focused of trad so we climbed the three E2’s which can be extended by clipping the last few bolts Fun Lovin’ Criminals which is a good 6c in it’s own right.
Brown Crag
A steep bird free wall above a non-tidal platform offering good, well-protected climbing. The wall can be prone to a little seepage after rain but it get a lot of sun and is quick drying. There’s enough routes from VS -E4 for at least a couple of visits. There’s also an E5, Pinch of Salt if you have steel fingers? After we warmed up on the awesome Domestos E1 5a I then climbed the eliminate Clean Round the Bend HVS which had an intense start but maybe I just eliminated too many good holds. The popular Davidson’s Delight E1 5a was very good and Weakling’s Wall E2 was certainly the best of the bunch.
We haven’t climbed The Grail VS it’s popular but may be worth HVS and can be a bit greasy. Incontinence Crack E1 5a is a superb sustained route but unfortunately it’s often a little damp. Rock Lobster E3 5c is awesome, so good we did it three times with a variety of finishes. Initially so we could both lead it, but then after failing to unlock the desperate start of Pinch of Salt Karin led the brilliant link up Lobster Thermadore E4 5c which starts up the initial crack of Rock Lobster to runners at its top then left to join the top wall of Pinch of Salt. Great crag. (We think that Pinch of Salt is worth E5 6b)
Brown Band Crag
Just south of Brown Crag, this is smaller, steeper, sunnier and quicker drying. With routes up to E5 there is something for everyone. The pick of the routes here are Haar Hole E1 5b, Lost E2 5c and The Fire Inside E2 5b. We both tried Coalition but (after failing to pull over the roof) I continued leftwards underneath the roof until it is possible to join and finish as for Black Phantom. We still have unfinished business on this brilliant crag.
Johns Heugh
With the recent addition of more quality routes, Johns heugh is now among the best high extreme crags on the coast south of Aberdeen although the wall may suffer from a few birds nesting so best to check first. We warmed up on Hunchback Direct E2 which was good but I found the moves over the roof challenged my flexibility and I was pleased Karin had led it! Pump Junkie Direct E3 5c was steeper, with pumpy jug pulling which I enjoyed better. Then we both tackled the crag classic Jaded Ledge Lizard E4 5c which offered superb steep climbing, a well protected pumpy route that was so good we both led it. Just to the right Veinspotting E5 and Arrhythmia E6 both looked excellent but I’ll need to be on better form before attempting those.
Boltsheugh
It was a showery day so Costa del Boltsheugh was the perfect choice, short approach and plenty of fun sport routes that can be climbed in light rain. We didn’t stay long. The nearby Skateraw Store cafe came highly recommended and it didn’t disappoint.
Newtonhill
Climbing at Newtonhill was one of the highlights of our many trips. I’m surprised it wasn’t included in the Scottish Climbs Wired Guide. Tim Rankin & Piotr Wisthal’s route Back in the Saddle E5 was unforgettable. First we considered trying the classic Underbelly 7b in Newtonhill Cave but it looked a bit unloved however the lower offs have just been replaced since our visit so that’s back on the “To Do list”. We were more impressed with the shady non tidal trad climbing of Back Door Wall where we climbed 3 steep and juggy HVS’s; Red Baron, Flying Circus and a direct on Daka Daka plus two variations on the superb Acapulco E1. After half tide you can climb on the superb sunny Harbour Wall. Pooh’s Arête E2 was much better than I expected. Tigger E1 was great after a tough start. El-D E2 provided enjoyable face climbing. The Great Escape HVS was very memorable. Then finally the tide receded and the sun evaporated the earlier hints of damp. I was psyched for Wooden Horse E2 and Karin was keen for Back in the Saddle E5, but there wasn’t enough daylight for both so we went for the big tick. Karin soon discovered what Tim meant in the description “Very well protected yet committing!” However we returned another sunny evening to catch a late low tide when I thoroughly enjoyed the steep juggy and well protected climbing of Wooden Horse which gets E2 5b but probably deserves E3 5c.
Craig Sterling
Most of the climbs here are on shady bird free walls that require an abseil to access the starts. We started on the West Buttress and warmed up on Electric Blue E1 5a where a bold start leads to a well protected tricky finish. I backed off Omnivore E2 5c but Karin unlocked a better sequence that I found fine seconding. The East Buttress has a clutch of classics and some that were first climbed as DWS. Depth Charge E1 5a is a classic put up by Pat Littlejohn. Clockwork Rat and Sea Cat are two brilliant crimp fests at E3. So good that we also climbed the popular combo Clockwork Cat on another visit! We had abseiled down the line of Grand Diedre HVS 5a all day and nearly didn’t bother climbing the corner. I’m glad we did, what an enjoyable and interesting route. The classic test piece Yahoochie E6 6a is still on the “To Do” list.
Floors Craig
Despite the recent rockfall (2024) Floors Craig is a popular bird free cliff with something for everyone. Not affected by tides provided a big swell isn’t running. Although relatively short these routes are all good value being steep and powerful. We climbed a bunch of brilliant E2’s and Raging Bull which although it is given E3 it’s probably E2 with a modern rack. A couple of routes still on the “To Do” list are the classic E4 tick Manassa Mauler which has got a bit tougher now that the top peg has gone, and the great looking Sair Fecht E3 6a, a finger intensive pumpy climb, again it’s worth checking the peg and/or back it up.
Berrymuir Head
It was a nice day (maybe too nice) when we drove to Downies and enjoyed the short walk to the south east facing Berrymuir Head on the coast just south of Aberdeen. There was a few fulmars nesting on Barrier Wall so the superb looking classics of Coco the Clown E2 & Paranormal E3 were out of the question. Over on Gully Wall the classic The Niche VS had the tide lapping it’s base and the excellent looking pump fest Downies Syndrome E4 was already in the shade and looked greasy so we jumped on Nighthawk E2 (maybe worth E3) on the Central Wall which was still catching some sun. It was hard from the start but I soon managed to get some really good protection in the top of the crack. I launched out right but I backed off when I reached an unpleasant sloper and unfortunately took a fall trying to reverse the launch move! We pulled the ropes and Karin took on the lead without any problems. I managed to second it okay, I’d backed off the hardest move! We called it a (semi) rest day after one route but we’re definitely psyched to return on a breezy day and after the birds have moved on.
Findon Ness
It was a blustery day with a big sea running when I enjoyed the steep and well protected Armed Conflict E1 5b and Karin quickly tackled Armistice E2 5c, two excellent routes. The big sea meant that we couldn’t get on Siva-Guru E3, Odin E3 and Halo E4 so instead we finished with The Peacekeeper E1 5a which was better than it looked. We will be back to this brilliant crag when the sea state is more favourable!
Earnsheugh
Earnsheugh has a fearful reputation. Its north easterly aspect and sheltered location mean the dampness can linger longer than many other crags along this coastline. We took advantage of the shelter on a very windy day. The popular Death Cap E1 climbs the centre of the Right Wall. The routes to the left of this are steep and powerful and can suffer from many nesting birds. The area to the right is must less steep and usually has no birds.
We both enjoyed a fantastic day climbing a couple of classic E2’s at Earnsheugh, I led Bats’ Belfry in one superb 35m pitch and Karin led the main pitch of the awesome Pterodactyl leaving me the top traverse pitch. We returned fitter and Karin led the awesome Necromancer E5 6a and I liked the look of Weird Sister E3 5c. It’s difficult not to look while abseiling in. It was “clean” and chalked but there was a lot of dusty sea grass blowing about and lying on the holds so I tried to brush the worst of it off. Great climbing which turned out to feel spicier than I anticipated!
Next on the list for us are two awe inspiring routes left of Death Cap, Thugosaurus E5 6a and Prehistoric Monster E5 6a if we can get there before the birds return.
South Cove
The climbing at South Cove is superb but getting optimal conditions can be challenging. We went with high hopes for climbing the mega classic Orbital Ejection E3 5c that sweeps across the Red Hole (aka the Optimist’s Wall). Birds and conditions were against us this time but we came away with three great ticks on the adjacent Hospital Wall. I’m surprised this superb sunny sector didn’t get included in the SMC/ Wired guidebook. Every route we did was excellent; Vasectomy HVS 5c, Cirrhosis E4 6a and Torn Ligaments E2 5c.
Meackie Point
Meackie Point is perfect granite situated above a tidal platform. I warmed up on Flurry HVS which I found harder and bolder than I expected and would suggest E1. Karin led the superb The Killing Moon E1 before the rising tide chased us to the cafe. We’ve got three classics to return for Legend E2, Trial of Tears E3 and The Changeling E4.
Red Wall Quarry
We checked out the immaculate granite of Red Wall Quarry. We came to look at the hard routes. After looking we warmed up on the superb Rough Diamond 6a+ then climbed Diamond in the Rough a superb 6c. We left impressed, hoping to return with “steel fingers” for the tough looking Sultan 7c.
Rosehearty
A superb cliff with the best selection of mid-extremes in the North East. It can be challenging getting good conditions on the greywacke at Rosehearty. Even with a late start it was very greasy when we arrived however, eventually, the sun burnt it off and we enjoyed three awesome routes on the West Wall, starting with a quick headpoint of the intense Unfinished Monkey Business E5 then on sighting the classic Shape Shifter E4 then finishing with the superb crack line of Afterburn E2 as the sun was setting. A most memorable day.
So good we returned two days later and arrived much earlier with the intention of warming up in the sun trap box zawn. I enjoyed the technical slab climbing on Living Through the Lambada E2 5c it’s well protected with lots of small cams and nuts but it also takes some bigger gear that I’d left in my bag at the top. Karin then led the trickier Tango on the Black E3 5c. We climbed on the seaward face of Central Wall in the late afternoon sun. I thoroughly enjoyed the challenging The Essential E3 5c superb and well protected but a little greasy today. Karin took on Cocaine E4 6a another brilliant steep route but this one has a distinct crux. There is lots more to go back for but the one that’s top of our “To Do List” is Mike Reed’s Heart of Stone E5 6a on the South Wall.
Pass of Ballater, The Diamond of Royal Deeside
We thought that the sun trap of Pass of Ballater would be quick drying after all the rain and it was in perfect condition.
I warmed up on Blutered E1 which started with delicate thoughtful moves then suddenly became powerful. Arguably the classic of the crag is Anger & Lust E2 5b, sustained climbing up the corner soon leads to sensational climbing across the roof.
Karin led a variation on the superb Larup Head E3 5c. It was a little damp in places so she climbed the direct start and we finished out left which I think is the top of the E5, a nice way up the wall. Karin also led the more intimidating Pretzel Logic E3 5c which has an exhilarating finish after quite a tough start.
Glen Clova
I have great memories of visiting Glen Doll SYHA Hostel especially Christmas/New Year in the 1980’s. It was good to get back recently and we enjoyed some fantastic weather. Red Craig is a roadside crag with a sunny aspect, which can be climbed on all year round. We climbed The Red Wall E2 5b with some fantastic quartz intrusions. I was almost blinded by tears due to the strong gusts of wind. Zigzag Double Direct E2 5c was another great route, the last one of our trip. Red Craig has plenty of great routes at every grade but especially around HVS/E1, Guinness, Vindaloo and Witches Tooth all stand out from the crowd but I think I’ll be sure to climb the tremendous Proud Corner VS next time.
Neil Morrison wrote the current definitive guide for the Scottish Mountaineering Club and is currently working on the new North East Outcrops. We’ve been lucky enough to sample a few of the recent developments around Aberdeen. More of that from Neil/SMC later.
Compiled by Kevin Howett
There’s a lot of good climbing on the coast north of Aberdeen but these cliffs are more affected by nesting birds so we’ll need to try and explore them in early springtime. I’ll updated this article as we work our way through the “To Do List”
