Rock climbing in Chulilla has changed a lot since the heydays of the 1980’s, many new sectors have been developed many older routes have got longer too! A 70m rope is essential for many of the newer routes and for some climbers an 80m rope is preferred. The routes are generally well protected so take plenty of quickdraws too! There is plenty of climbing surrounding the town of Chulilla itself and the some of newer sectors are clearly visible a short walk across the river. The most popular of the newer sectors is the south facing wall of El muro de las lamentaciones. Then a little to its right and directly opposite the new Refugio is the east facing wall of Pared de Enfrente which catches the sun until about 2pm. The NW facing wall of Embalse is a beautiful orange wall which gets steeper as you head left, but ranges between slabs and bulges at the right-hand end to about 10 degrees constantly overhanging for the main middle section, then some harder routes at the left-hand end with steep barrel shaped starts into less steep headwalls. The climbing is mainly technical on a variety of thin tufas, crimps, side-pulls – a face climbers dream venue really. There’s plenty of good 6’s and some superb 7a’s but the main event is the middle section offering a superb choice of 7c and 7c+’s.
The stunning Los Calderones de Chulilla (walkway) through the gorge to the dam has been restored which has eased access to many of the newer sectors nearer the dam and it is a superb walk for rest days and non climbers alike.
The popular climbers refugio El Altico is situated in a prominent position overlooking the crags and it is ran by local activist Pedro Pons. It is always open however it is important to book in advance preferably by email (info@elaltico.com). The prices are reasonable: about 15 € person/night (or 10 € for people who like to sleep in their van but they want to use the excellent El Altico facilities). For more information about the climber friendly accommodation at El Altico visit their website here: http://www.elaltico.com.
The recent Chulilla sport climbing boom started with a climbing topo that was first published in the Spanish climbing magazine Desnival in November 2010. Desnival also published a Chulilla update in December 2013. The January 2015 issue of Climber Magazine featured with “Climbing in a Spanish Paradise” an excellent article by local activist Marijne Lekkerkerker who details this magical place festooned with high quality rock and routes. The best source of information can be found at http://chulillaclimbing.com.
Top Chulilla Climbs This is a selection of some of the very best climbs at Chulilla. (Note: the list keeps getting longer!)
| Magnetoresistencia 6b+, Oasis | |
| El Ramallito 6c, El muro de las lamentaciones | |
| La Diagonal 6c,7a, Sex Shop | |
| Blue Agave 7a, El muro de las lamentaciones | |
| Top of the Rock 7a, Oasis | |
| Richer Line 7a, Chorreras | |
| Plan Z. 7a, Oasis | |
| Pim Pam Pons 7a+, Chorreras | |
| Sendero sinuoso 7a+, Oasis | |
| Dale duro negro 7b, Sex Shop | |
| Cantalobos 7b, Pared de enfrente | |
| Segul lluitan 7b, Nano Park | |
| Daños colaterales 7b+, Oasis | |
| Los Franceses 7b+, Pared de enfrente | |
| El gran dinosaurio blanco 7b+, Cañaveral | |
| La conjura de los nachos, Cañaveral | |
| Nibelungalos 7c, Algarrobo | |
| Todo un clásico 7c, Cañaveral | |
| Super Zeb 7c, Pared blanca | |
| Los Caminantes 7c, Chorreras | |
| Moon Safari 7c+, Algarrobo | |
| El rey de a palanca 7c+, Algarrobo | |
| El diablo viste de prana 7c+, Algarrobo | |
| El Ramallar 7c+, Pared de enfrente | |
| El Romanso de las mulas 7c+, Pared de enfrente | |
| El Bufa 7c+/8a, Balconcito | |
| El Agent Naranja 8a, Balcon | |
| La Montana magica 8a+/b, Balconcito | |
| La bella protegida 8b, Balconcito |
