Rock Climbing – climbonline.co.uk

04/07/202410/10/2024

Aberdeenshire Adventures

A collection of recent climbing trips to the North East Outcrops by Steve Crowe and Karin Magog.

I was recovering from a shoulder injury when we decided to explore somewhere new. I had climbed once in Glen Clova way back in 1980s and had enjoyed a sunny February afternoon rock climbing at Pass of Ballater after retreating from a white out on Lochnagar in 1990s so it was long overdue time for a revisit. We really enjoyed our exploits and ended up making multiple trips to the North East Outcrops but mostly the sea cliffs discovering many great places to climb. Timing the tide and catching the best wind direction combined with ideal humidity, all while avoiding nesting birds can be challenging. Abseiling in to a small tidal ledge to start your chosen challenge requires a precision not needed in the mountains. Just finding the top of the crag itself can often be tricky enough.

Elephant Rock

Situated on the coast just south of Montrose, the sport climbing at Elephant Rock was a convenient place to start my comeback. Karin and I spent two days there. We arrived in the late afternoon and enjoyed the climbing but were hampered by greasy conditions and the rising tide so we decided to return early the following morning when we found a dry and sunny crag with low tides. We enjoyed some superb 6’s and are psyched to return for some of the burly grade 7’s on another trip.

Beware of the Jellyfish 6b, Elephant Rock © Steve Crowe

It's not my fault! 6a, Elephant Rock © Steve Crowe — Beware of the Jellyfish 6b, Elephant Rock © Steve Crowe

Stonehaven

Stonehaven is a pretty place with all the shops and cafes that you’ll need for a rest day. Our regular haunt was The Old Pier Coffee House overlooking the harbour. Between Stonehaven and Aberdeen is a chain of small steep sea cliffs with positive holds and powerful climbing. We spent most of our recent trips exploring these with the assistance of local experts but especially Neil Morrison whose advice was invaluable.

Drab Crag

Drag Crag is a sunny venue with a reputation for poor rock but it only deteriorates near the top so setting up a static rope off the fence above before you start is a good idea. Solar Eclipse E1 5a is a pleasant looking slab and does make a good warm up but be warned it’s at you right from the start. There are half a dozen good climbs mostly E1 and if they all go okay then you could consider the well protected Vespa Vulgaris E3 with it’s powerful start and a powerful finish too. The crag is situated just a couple of minutes from the popular Yellow Crag.

Karin leading Vespa Vulgaris E3 6a at Drab Crag — Neil Morrison on Solar Eclipse E1 5a at Drab Crag

Yellow Crag, Clochindare

The sunny Yellow Crag has become more popular since the addition of a clutch of fine sport routes. However, Karin and I were focused of trad so we climbed the three E2’s which can be extended by clipping the last few bolts Fun Lovin’ Criminals which is a good 6c in it’s own right.

The Fuzz E2 5b, Yellow Wall — C.I.D. Wall E2 5b Yellow Crag

Brown Crag

A steep bird free wall above a non-tidal platform offering good, well-protected climbing. The wall can be prone to a little seepage after rain but it get a lot of sun and is quick drying. There’s enough routes from VS -E4 for at least a couple of visits. There’s also an E5, Pinch of Salt if you have steel fingers? After we warmed up on the awesome Domestos E1 5a I then climbed the eliminate Clean Round the Bend HVS which had an intense start but maybe I just eliminated too many good holds. The popular Davidson’s Delight E1 5a was very good and Weakling’s Wall E2 was certainly the best of the bunch.

We haven’t climbed The Grail VS it’s popular but may be worth HVS and can be a bit greasy. Incontinence Crack E1 5a is a superb sustained route but unfortunately it’s often a little damp. Rock Lobster E3 5c is awesome, so good we did it three times with a variety of finishes. Initially so we could both lead it, but then after failing to unlock the desperate start of Pinch of Salt Karin led the brilliant link up Lobster Thermadore E4 5c which starts up the initial crack of Rock Lobster to runners at its top then left to join the top wall of Pinch of Salt. Great crag. (We think that Pinch of Salt is worth E5 6b)

Clean Round the Bend HVS 5a, Brown Crag — Domestos E1 5b, Brown Crag

Brown Band Crag

Just south of Brown Crag, this is smaller, steeper, sunnier and quicker drying. With routes up to E5 there is something for everyone. The pick of the routes here are Haar Hole E1 5b, Lost E2 5c and The Fire Inside E2 5b. We both tried Coalition but (after failing to pull over the roof) I continued leftwards underneath the roof until it is possible to join and finish as for Black Phantom. We still have unfinished business on this brilliant crag.

Johns Heugh

With the recent addition of more quality routes, Johns heugh is now among the best high extreme crags on the coast south of Aberdeen although the wall may suffer from a few birds nesting so best to check first. We warmed up on Hunchback Direct E2 which was good but I found the moves over the roof challenged my flexibility and I was pleased Karin had led it! Pump Junkie Direct E3 5c was steeper, with pumpy jug pulling which I enjoyed better. Then we both tackled the crag classic Jaded Ledge Lizard E4 5c which offered superb steep climbing, a well protected pumpy route that was so good we both led it. Just to the right Veinspotting E5 and Arrhythmia E6 both looked excellent but I’ll need to be on better form before attempting those.

Pump Junkie Direct E3 5c — Jaded Ledge Lizard E4 5c

Boltsheugh

It was a showery day so Costa del Boltsheugh was the perfect choice, short approach and plenty of fun sport routes that can be climbed in light rain. We didn’t stay long. The nearby Skateraw Store cafe came highly recommended and it didn’t disappoint.

Laurel 6a+ © Steve Crowe — The League of Wingers 6b+ © Steve Crowe

Newtonhill

Climbing at Newtonhill was one of the highlights of our many trips. I’m surprised it wasn’t included in the Scottish Climbs Wired Guide. Tim Rankin & Piotr Wisthal’s route Back in the Saddle E5 was unforgettable. First we considered trying the classic Underbelly 7b in Newtonhill Cave but it looked a bit unloved however the lower offs have just been replaced since our visit so that’s back on the “To Do list”. We were more impressed with the shady non tidal trad climbing of Back Door Wall where we climbed 3 steep and juggy HVS’s; Red Baron, Flying Circus and a direct on Daka Daka plus two variations on the superb Acapulco E1. After half tide you can climb on the superb sunny Harbour Wall. Pooh’s Arête E2 was much better than I expected. Tigger E1 was great after a tough start. El-D E2 provided enjoyable face climbing. The Great Escape HVS was very memorable. Then finally the tide receded and the sun evaporated the earlier hints of damp. I was psyched for Wooden Horse E2 and Karin was keen for Back in the Saddle E5, but there wasn’t enough daylight for both so we went for the big tick. Karin soon discovered what Tim meant in the description “Very well protected yet committing!” However we returned another sunny evening to catch a late low tide when I thoroughly enjoyed the steep juggy and well protected climbing of Wooden Horse which gets E2 5b but probably deserves E3 5c.

Karin on sighting Back in the Saddle E5 6a

Craig Sterling

Most of the climbs here are on shady bird free walls that require an abseil to access the starts. We started on the West Buttress and warmed up on Electric Blue E1 5a where a bold start leads to a well protected tricky finish. I backed off Omnivore E2 5c but Karin unlocked a better sequence that I found fine seconding. The East Buttress has a clutch of classics and some that were first climbed as DWS. Depth Charge E1 5a is a classic put up by Pat Littlejohn. Clockwork Rat and Sea Cat are two brilliant crimp fests at E3. So good that we also climbed the popular combo Clockwork Cat on another visit! We had abseiled down the line of Grand Diedre HVS 5a all day and nearly didn’t bother climbing the corner. I’m glad we did, what an enjoyable and interesting route. The classic test piece Yahoochie E6 6a is still on the “To Do” list.

Neil Morrison on Sea Cat E3 5b — Karin on Sea Cat E3 5b

Floors Craig

Despite the recent rockfall (2024) Floors Craig is a popular bird free cliff with something for everyone. Not affected by tides provided a big swell isn’t running. Although relatively short these routes are all good value being steep and powerful. We climbed a bunch of brilliant E2’s and Raging Bull which although it is given E3 it’s probably E2 with a modern rack. A couple of routes still on the “To Do” list are the classic E4 tick Manassa Mauler which has got a bit tougher now that the top peg has gone, and the great looking Sair Fecht E3 6a, a finger intensive pumpy climb, again it’s worth checking the peg and/or back it up.

Seaward Face, Floors Craig — Karin cruising Raging Bull E2/3 5b, Floors Craig

Berrymuir Head

It was a nice day (maybe too nice) when we drove to Downies and enjoyed the short walk to the south east facing Berrymuir Head on the coast just south of Aberdeen. There was a few fulmars nesting on Barrier Wall so the superb looking classics of Coco the Clown E2 & Paranormal E3 were out of the question. Over on Gully Wall the classic The Niche VS had the tide lapping it’s base and the excellent looking pump fest Downies Syndrome E4 was already in the shade and looked greasy so we jumped on Nighthawk E2 (maybe worth E3) on the Central Wall which was still catching some sun. It was hard from the start but I soon managed to get some really good protection in the top of the crack. I launched out right but I backed off when I reached an unpleasant sloper and unfortunately took a fall trying to reverse the launch move! We pulled the ropes and Karin took on the lead without any problems. I managed to second it okay, I’d backed off the hardest move! We called it a (semi) rest day after one route but we’re definitely psyched to return on a breezy day and after the birds have moved on.

Findon Ness

It was a blustery day with a big sea running when I enjoyed the steep and well protected Armed Conflict E1 5b and Karin quickly tackled Armistice E2 5c, two excellent routes. The big sea meant that we couldn’t get on Siva-Guru E3, Odin E3 and Halo E4 so instead we finished with The Peacekeeper E1 5a which was better than it looked. We will be back to this brilliant crag when the sea state is more favourable!

Sea swell at Findon Ness — Armistice E2 5b, Findon Ness

Earnsheugh

Earnsheugh has a fearful reputation. Its north easterly aspect and sheltered location mean the dampness can linger longer than many other crags along this coastline. We took advantage of the shelter on a very windy day. The popular Death Cap E1 climbs the centre of the Right Wall. The routes to the left of this are steep and powerful and can suffer from many nesting birds. The area to the right is must less steep and usually has no birds.

We both enjoyed a fantastic day climbing a couple of classic E2’s at Earnsheugh, I led Bats’ Belfry in one superb 35m pitch and Karin led the main pitch of the awesome Pterodactyl leaving me the top traverse pitch. We returned fitter and Karin led the awesome Necromancer E5 6a and I liked the look of Weird Sister E3 5c. It’s difficult not to look while abseiling in. It was “clean” and chalked but there was a lot of dusty sea grass blowing about and lying on the holds so I tried to brush the worst of it off. Great climbing which turned out to feel spicier than I anticipated!

Next on the list for us are two awe inspiring routes left of Death Cap, Thugosaurus E5 6a and Prehistoric Monster E5 6a if we can get there before the birds return.

The top traverse of Pterodactyl E2 5b — Weird Sister E3 5c, Earnsheugh

South Cove

The climbing at South Cove is superb but getting optimal conditions can be challenging. We went with high hopes for climbing the mega classic Orbital Ejection E3 5c that sweeps across the Red Hole (aka the Optimist’s Wall). Birds and conditions were against us this time but we came away with three great ticks on the adjacent Hospital Wall. I’m surprised this superb sunny sector didn’t get included in the SMC/ Wired guidebook. Every route we did was excellent; Vasectomy HVS 5c, Cirrhosis E4 6a and Torn Ligaments E2 5c.

The technical Cirrhosis E4 6a — The tricky Vasectomy HVS 5b

Meackie Point

Meackie Point is perfect granite situated above a tidal platform. I warmed up on Flurry HVS which I found harder and bolder than I expected and would suggest E1. Karin led the superb The Killing Moon E1 before the rising tide chased us to the cafe. We’ve got three classics to return for Legend E2, Trial of Tears E3 and The Changeling E4.

Red Wall Quarry

We checked out the immaculate granite of Red Wall Quarry. We came to look at the hard routes. After looking we warmed up on the superb Rough Diamond 6a+ then climbed Diamond in the Rough a superb 6c. We left impressed, hoping to return with “steel fingers” for the tough looking Sultan 7c.

Rough Diamond 6a+, Red Wall Quarry © Steve Crowe

Rosehearty

A superb cliff with the best selection of mid-extremes in the North East. It can be challenging getting good conditions on the greywacke at Rosehearty. Even with a late start it was very greasy when we arrived however, eventually, the sun burnt it off and we enjoyed three awesome routes on the West Wall, starting with a quick headpoint of the intense Unfinished Monkey Business E5 then on sighting the classic Shape Shifter E4 then finishing with the superb crack line of Afterburn E2 as the sun was setting. A most memorable day.

So good we returned two days later and arrived much earlier with the intention of warming up in the sun trap box zawn. I enjoyed the technical slab climbing on Living Through the Lambada E2 5c it’s well protected with lots of small cams and nuts but it also takes some bigger gear that I’d left in my bag at the top. Karin then led the trickier Tango on the Black E3 5c. We climbed on the seaward face of Central Wall in the late afternoon sun. I thoroughly enjoyed the challenging The Essential E3 5c superb and well protected but a little greasy today. Karin took on Cocaine E4 6a another brilliant steep route but this one has a distinct crux. There is lots more to go back for but the one that’s top of our “To Do List” is Mike Reed’s Heart of Stone E5 6a on the South Wall.

Finishing a superb day on Afterglow E2 5c — Karin enjoying Shapeshifter E4 6a

Pass of Ballater, The Diamond of Royal Deeside

We thought that the sun trap of Pass of Ballater would be quick drying after all the rain and it was in perfect condition.

I warmed up on Blutered E1 which started with delicate thoughtful moves then suddenly became powerful. Arguably the classic of the crag is Anger & Lust E2 5b, sustained climbing up the corner soon leads to sensational climbing across the roof.

Laura Head E3 5c © Steve Crowe — Stinker E1 5b © Karin Magog

Karin led a variation on the superb Larup Head E3 5c. It was a little damp in places so she climbed the direct start and we finished out left which I think is the top of the E5, a nice way up the wall. Karin also led the more intimidating Pretzel Logic E3 5c which has an exhilarating finish after quite a tough start.

Glen Clova

I have great memories of visiting Glen Doll SYHA Hostel especially Christmas/New Year in the 1980’s. It was good to get back recently and we enjoyed some fantastic weather. Red Craig is a roadside crag with a sunny aspect, which can be climbed on all year round. We climbed The Red Wall E2 5b with some fantastic quartz intrusions. I was almost blinded by tears due to the strong gusts of wind. Zigzag Double Direct E2 5c was another great route, the last one of our trip. Red Craig has plenty of great routes at every grade but especially around HVS/E1, Guinness, Vindaloo and Witches Tooth all stand out from the crowd but I think I’ll be sure to climb the tremendous Proud Corner VS next time.

Neil Morrison wrote the current definitive guide for the Scottish Mountaineering Club and is currently working on the new North East Outcrops. We’ve been lucky enough to sample a few of the recent developments around Aberdeen. More of that from Neil/SMC later.

Scottish Rock Climbs (SMC Wired)
Compiled by Kevin Howett

North East Outcrops, Scottish Mountaineering Club — Scottish Rock Climbs (SMC Wired)
Compiled by Kevin Howett

There’s a lot of good climbing on the coast north of Aberdeen but these cliffs are more affected by nesting birds so we’ll need to try and explore them in early springtime. I’ll updated this article as we work our way through the “To Do List”

22/05/202414/07/2024

Cleadon Quarry (aka Lonnen Quarry)

History

Mike Blenkinsop was the first to record his activities here back in 1974, including Left and Right Walls. Paul Stewart climbed Thin White Crack, The Dancer and the testing Naybrew. Paul Stewart was also involved in the development of the Black Wall with many problems including Improviserand The Rat. Many local climbers have used this compact venue for mid week training but few have “claimed” their achievements as first ascents.

Situation and Character

These pleasant, though small, crags are more akin to outdoor climbing walls than some of the major bouldering crags in this guide. The urban setting and southwestern aspect ensures popularity amongst local climbers however a long journey from far outside of South Tyneside can hardly be justified. The rock is Magnesium Limestone with many shell fossils clear to see. The quality of the rock is variable but all the problems described are on good quality limestone, however the more popular problems do suffer from a high polish. Quarry Crag is sheltered and can be climbed on all year round. The nearby Cleadon Crag (NZ392628) has a dozen short solos but unfortunately it is showning signs of neglect and has become more overgrown in recent years.

Slim Chance Font 3+ Cleadon Crag © Steve Crowe 2011

Access and Approaches

Quarry Crag is easily located as it overlooks the football fields adjacent to Quarry Lane in South Shields, on the edge of the Cleadon Hills. Park near the junction of Quarry Lane and Larch Avenue.

The Climbs

By far the best and most pleasant of the crags in the Cleadon Massif! The problems are short and generally polished. Many of the harder problems are eliminate in nature and obviously many more variations exist than are described here. Despite this Quarry Crag is a popular training area. There are two main buttresses, White Buttress and Black Wall. White Buttress is mostly used for up and down problems while Black Wall is most popular for its pumpy traverses. All the problems are about four metres high. While most climbers boulder here, there is a convenient fence along the top of the crag should a belay be required, however care should be taken not to let the rope run over the edge where irreparable damage has been caused to the soil, especially above White Wall. The climbs are described from left to right.

Mini Guide PDF

Cleadon Mini Guide PDF

16/05/202416/05/2024

Sunnybrow Boulders

These friendly south facing gritstone boulders at Sunnybrow deserve to be more popular. They are situated across the moor from Goldsborough and about 30 minutes flat walk from the nearest road.

These descriptions confer no right of access but no difficulties have been experienced during the current development. Both the approaches and the boulders lie within the Danger Area of the Battle Hill Firing Range. Do not enter when red flags are flying.

Karin on A Question of Balance, Cantilever © Steve Crowe

History

The present level of development results from visit by Alan Dougherty, Kevin Flint and Paul Johnson during summer 2002. Dougherty and Flint had previously visited circa 2000, when several problems were recorded and no evidence of previous climbing was noted. Scope remains for further problems and several existing ones have only been top – roped so far. Steve Crowe visited in September 2002 and added a few problems and freed one previously top roped line.

Character

A south facing collection of Gritstone boulders and buttresses, up to 5m high, spread along some 600m of moor side. The Grit is generally of good quality but care needs to be taken with lichen (brushing has been kept to a minimum) and with the odd friable hold along iron rich bands. Many of the landings are good but there are some real ankle crunchers so beware – a bouldering mat is advised. Bracken between the boulders can be irksome but the bases of most problems are clear. Midges can be a nuisance when the wind drops. Generally the bouldering is of good quality and the ambience and outlook excellent, especially as an evening venue. Many of the problems finish with rounded mantelshelves that can feel precarious if the top is lichenous.

Approach

Taking the minor road from Cotherstone to Bowes room should be found to park a couple of cars tidily on the north side of North Gill Bridge (GR 996175). Immediately to the south of the bridge a Public Footpath sign points westwards along a well-defined track. This can be followed, passing a gate / style at a sheepfold, for a couple of kilometres to the ruined farmstead at East Loups’. Just beyond East Loups’, the tumbled down wall on the left (south) can be passed, descending slightly from the ridge track way, and the Easterly Group should be visible just ahead. This approach is 2.3km and takes about half an hour. It should be noted that the boulders are not visible until one is quite close. It is also possible to approach from Goldsborough (from where the boulders are hidden from view) by aiming for the gate (GR 964175) where the previously mentioned track (now marked on maps as a Public Bridleway) meets the open moor, near a solitary pine tree.

Sunnybrow PDF

15/05/202415/05/2024

Hudeshope Boulders

Monk’s Moor and Low Carrs are short gritstone edges and blocks situated in the Hupeshope Valley above Middleton in Teasdale.

Monk’s Moor

Situation and Character

This venue is a collection of boulders and small edges standing at the top of Monk’s Moor, an area of moorland situated north-east of Middleton-in-Teesdale. It is well suited to bouldering. The rock is good quality Gritstone but may still be a little lichenous. The problems have been graded as of their current state. Landings are variable in quality and, generally, a mat would be sensible. The outlook, which encompasses the High Pennines, is superb and, given the westerly aspect, Monk’s Moor should provide a pleasing afternoon and evening venue. So far the obvious lines have given easier or mid-grade problems but the potential for harder variations (especially traverses) suggests some interest for those seeking greater technicality. A visit can easily be combined with the generally more serious and difficult bouldering which can be enjoyed at the nearby Low Carrs (NGR: 948303). A walk across the moor of about thirty minutes duration connects the two sites.

History

Long before climbers explored Hudeshope the valley it was exploited for its minerals and there is an interpretative display and self-guided trail based around Coldberry Mineshop . The most prosperous period of lead mining spanned almost the whole of the nineteenth century, creating one of the largest mine complexes of the North Pennines. This industry transformed forever the landscape of Hudeshope Valley. Scattered around the valley are numerous mine entrances and associated buildings that suggest the extent of the intricate system of shafts and levels that exist below the surface. On the valley sides are reservoirs and the remnants of a man-made water system that was used to power the mine machinery. Coldberry Gutter, the largest hush in the North Pennines, cuts through Hardberry Hill to form a distinctive scar on the horizon that can be seen from miles around.

Alan Dougherty and Kevin Flint visited in late July 2005, when the first twenty-five problems were ascended and recorded. Three subsequent visits, during August of that year, by Carol and Alan Dougherty, resulted in the discovery of a further thirty-four problems.

Access and Approaches

Monk’s Moor is now designated Access Land under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Under that Act dogs are excluded currently and the land can be subject to temporary closures of up to twenty- eight days a year. These are likely to be applied for during the Grouse nesting season. Notification of closures should be posted at Access Points locally and, prior to a visit, can be checked on www. countrysideaccess.gov.uk or via the Access Helpline on 0845 100 3298.

The area is covered by several conservation designations. Prior to development our intentions were run past English Nature. Their main concern was the possible disturbance of ground nesting and other birds.

Approach takes a comfortable thirty minutes. From Middleton–in-Teesdale take a minor road northwards up the east side of, the initially wooded and then mine-ravaged, valley of Hudes Hope. The road leaves Middleton-in-Teesdale from opposite the fish and chip shop and is sign-posted Stanhope. After 300m avoid the right turn to Stanhope and continue straight on – sign-posted Snaisgill. Some three kilometres along the road from Middleton –in Teesdale a gate is reached, just before a sharp left bend. Prior to this gate it is possible to park a car carefully on an area of wider verge. A nearby gate gives access to a field east of the road. Walk upslope (roughly east) to a second gate from which an approximately easterly walk of 600m should deposit you at the boulders. By following a line from the second gate towards the left end of the outcrop gives easier going that avoids the deeper heather.

General Layout

Prominent near the centre of the edge is a multi-penned, partly derelict, dry-stone walled Sheepfold that has been built against the SHEEPFOLD BUTTRESSES. The left extremity of the boulders lies some twenty metres north of Monk’s Currick, a round cairn come shelter on the moor above the edge. The furthest right of the boulders THE SHOOTING BOX GROUP lies close to the, also semi-derelict, hut – the Shooting House. All of these three features are marked on the 1:25000 OS map.

Low Carrs

Situation and Character

Low Carrs is a compact location comprising principally of several walls of excellent quality Gritstone up to five metres high. It stands on the southern edge of Middleton Common overlooking the valley of the Hudeshope Beck, both of which lie just to the north of Middleton-in-Teesdale. The outlook is magnificent and the site quiet. A visit can easily be combined with the generally less serious or difficult bouldering at the nearby Monk’s Moor Boulders (NGR 962289). A walk across the moor of about thirty minutes duration connects the two sites. Landings vary from the good to the potentially back-breaking / body-impaling and, given that the lack of traffic so far means some of the rock is lichenous and gritty, a circumspect approach is advised towards some of the problems. Some of the more serious problems have been top-roped and await better conditions for the intended solo. Burly spotters and a selection of mats would be useful. Nevertheless Low Carrs holds some excellent quality wall and arête problems.

History

Carol and Alan Dougherty together with Kevin Flint visited in August 2005, when the first twelve problems were ascended and recorded. The Doughertys added a further seventeen problems during two further visits later in the month.

Access and Approaches

Low Carrs lies on moorland that is designated Access Land under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Under that Act dogs are excluded currently and the land can be subject to temporary closures of up to twenty-eight days a year. These are likely to be applied for during the Grouse nesting season. Notification of closures should be posted at Access Points locally and, prior to a visit, can be checked on www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk or via the Access Helpline on 0845 100 3298.

From Middleton-in-Teesdale take a minor road northwards up the east side of, the initially wooded and then mine-ravaged, valley of Hudes Hope. The road leaves Middleton-in-Teesdale from opposite the fish and chip shop and is sign-posted Stanhope. After 300m avoid the right turn to Stanhope and continue straight on – sign-posted Snaisgill. Some three kilometres along the road from Middleton-in-Teesdale a gate is reached, just before a sharp left bend. Amongst other possibilities, it is possible to park a car carefully on an area of wider verge on the right seventy metres prior to this gate.

Walk through the gate and take the track (not the sign-posted footpath) which starts behind a metal vehicle barrier and runs northwards from the sharp bend in the road. The track zig-zags upwards through a large spoil heap to reach some ruined mine buildings. At this point take the left-hand fork and continue through three wooden gates. Just after passing the third gate take a sheep trod on the left, which follows the line of the dry-stone wall across the moor. Low Carrs is reached in about 500m from this last gate, having passed some smaller boulders, one of which might give a bum-scrapping traverse.

General Layout

On arrival the most obvious feature is that of the arête. To its left lies the main wall, whilst further left are the Left and Right Short Walls. To the right of the arête are the dry-stone wall remains of a ruined “hut,” which enclose the side of the hut wall and part of the back of the hut three tier wall. Further to the right is the Elephants Forehead, whilst other problems lie on The Scrappy Buttress just to the right of this feature and on The Isolated Block diagonally right, further up the slope behind. The problems are described from left to right as facing the crag.

Mini Guide PDF

Hudeshope Mini Guide 2015April 25

15/05/202415/05/2024

Climbing at Healaugh (Crag Willas)

Situation and Character
Perhaps the most remote of all the venues covered in the guide but well worth a visit, this collection of small buttresses and large boulders is situated in a quiet part of the East Pennines at an altitude of over 500 metres. The rock is excellent quality gritstone which has a classic rounded nature and many blind cracks. This gives rise to “smear” problems on both delicate slabs and steep walls. The situation is a suntrap in good weather and a superb quiet setting. A good place to get away from the crowds! It is comfortable to climb here from late spring to early autumn. From a bouldering/soloing viewpoint the landings are not always good, so plenty of pads and spotters could make the day more pleasant. That said and although most of the routes here have been soloed the use of a rope can sometimes be prudent on the bigger climbs.

What's your Problem ©Steve Crowe collection 2011 — What’s your Problem ©Steve Crowe collection 2011

History
Dave Staton whose routes during trips with the Youth Clubs of Darlington included those on Miners Wall and Calver Face was the first record his activities in the early 1960’s. Bruce Perry added routes to the West side of Luckystrike Buttress. Whilst checking out the crag for the North of England Guide, Ron Kenyon climbed a number of routes in 1978. In more recent times, Karl Lunt has climbed many of the existing routes and added some of his own the best of these being On The Level and Karl’s Arête. FRCC stalwart Ron Kenyon is Mr Wobbly. Alan Dougherty continued the development during the 1990’s with his highlight being the The Emerald Isle, which was named by Steve Crowe thinking he was making the first ascent later in the same decade. Bob Bennett, Mark Turner, Steve Crowe and Karin Magog added many more routes and problems during the 1990’s. Of particular note were the ascents of Their Glorious Wealth the first route to tackle the awesomely steep west wall of the Inclined Buttress, the impressive lead of Blood Red Streets and the highball solo ascent of the classic Sin Feinn. Ian Cummings made an impressive onsight solo repeat of Blood Red Streets above a six foot covering of snow.

Approach

The best approach is  by the old flue running up from the Old Gang Smelt Mills. Park at the popular picnic spot where Surrender Bridge crosses Hard Level Gill. A good level track leads west from here above the north side of the river to reach the old mining ruins at NGR 974005. At this point the ruins of an old flue (looking like an old dry stone wall from a distance) runs directly up the hillside northwards over a number of false summits! The crag is not visible until just before the top of the hill. The flue squeezes between The Lumberjack Wall of the Third Flue Buttress on the left, and The Magic Buttress on the right. The approach as described, although not the shortest, is the estates preferred route and anyway may save time spent stumbling aimlessly across the heather clad moors.

The smooth Skiver 4+ smears up the centre of the slab.

Mini Guide PDF

Healaugh (Crag Willas)

20/02/202415/05/2024

Climbing at Goldsborough

Ian Cummins on Jumping Jack Flash 6A+ © Steve Crowe 2004

Goldsborough is a superb remote Pennine gritstone outcrop a few miles from Barnard Castle. The rock is of good quality in a pleasant situation overlooking Hury and Blackton reservoirs in the shallow valley of Baldersdale. The crag has a scattering of boulders and short walls on the North face and much bigger series of South facing buttresses all wrapped around a small, rising, moor land summit. Although exposed to any wind, it is quick drying, as it does not suffer from any drainage or seepage. The crag does enjoy visits all year round but it is more comfortable from early spring to late autumn. A pad may prove more useful than ropes at this crag as soloing appears to be the norm however many of the routes do offer placements for protection and there are belay stakes at the top.

History

There are no records of the early development of Goldsborough. It is known that Bentley Beetham climbed here regularly during the 1930s, bringing parties of pupils from his Barnard Castle School. The adventures of the Goldsborough Club, as they were known, are recorded in the Fell and Rock guides to the Lake District. Most of the easier routes were recorded by members of the Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s during work on the first edition of the “North of England Rock Climbing Guide”.

Climbers from Barnard Castle were also active, in particular Paul Carling and Nigs Reader. Motivation was climbed by Reader in 1980, while Carling recorded many testing problems including Enigma, The Thornbird and Long Reach all prior to 1982. Ian Cummins added the bold Green Nigel in 1983 and Nick Clement climbed The Obsessed and Viola.

Steve Crowe on The Obsessed 6A+ © Steve Crowe Collection 2006

During the mid 1980s Ian Cummins climbed the Footless Traverse on Thin Wall Buttress. Stu Ferguson climbed Flymantle on the North Facing section; Steve Crowe added the more serious variation. Bob Bennett, Steve Crowe and Mark Turner added many new problems while working on the first edition of Climbing in North East England.

Karin Magog soloing Fiddlers Arete HVS 5b © Steve Crowe 2003

Bob Bennett began developing the North East Boulders during 1995 with about 15 problems added by spring 1996. Steve Crowe recorded a number of traverses during the winter of 1995/96 including Askew and Upper Break, although it is possible they were climbed before. Due to bad fingers/work/kids/staleness etc., Ian Cummins had kept a low profile for 5-6 years before surfacing in 1997 to report the hardest problems at Goldsborough to date. Beth’s Traverse from July 1996 and George’s Roof climbed in July 1997 both have become classics.

Andy Earl on his Super Low Level Traverse 7B © Steve Crowe 2003

Andrew Earl traversed the Super Low Level on the Thin Wall Buttress in January 1997 and Steve Dunning extended this in 2001. Dunning added three desperate combinations, Something Burning, Second Coming and Juxtapose around this time. In April 2002 Ian Cummins made the long overdue ascent of Holstein Friesian. Tom Newman has added a fews powerful problems more recently; Mr Motivator 7C, Upside Downtown F7C, Clamp Faster 8A, Plump Master 7C and This One’s For Cummings F7C. Dan Varian left his mark in 2019 with some impressive link ups the best are probably Polo and Clamp Faster both 8A

Bentley’s Buttress

The crag is clearly seen above the road. This is North West Buttress which is a little underwhelming and just to the left is the compact wall of Bentley’s Buttress which has half a dozen worthwhile climbs that may need brushing and are best enjoyed on a warm mid summers evening. The spectacular Flymantle VS 5a tackles the centre of the roof to the left of the photo above. However most folks head straight over the top to the sunny side.

Enigma Buttress

The Swaledale Morris Men is an ungradable one move wonder that is sometimes the first warm up. Both Old Moss 5+ and Enigma 6A+ are much sought after ticks but ascents are hard fought for. Being West facing the Enigma buttress may be a bit chilly and better saved for a warm down.

Hubris Buttress

The classic climb here Hubris 6A+ fell down. Ian’s Arête is certainly a sandbag at 7A.

Yoke Buttress

Further right Yoke Buttress isn’t especially impressive but it contains a bunch of reasonably easy climbs that are great for warming up on.

Thornbird Buttress

This is the left-hand of the two main impressive buttresses. George’s Roof 7B+ is essentially a direct start to the left arête which is Nick Clement’s The Obsessed 6A+. Fiddler on the Roof E1 5c is much sought after. A powerful start across the huge roof leads to an easier finish. The Thornbird and Green Nigel share the same powerful start and grade E2 6a. Be sure they are clean because they are all quite bold. Dan Varian’s Clamp Faster 8A is a more recent addition.

Steve Crowe soloing Fiddler on the Roof E1 5c © Steve Crowe Collection 2006 — Steve Crowe on The Obsessed 6A+ © Steve Crowe Collection 2006

The Alcove

Half a dozen climbs sit in the alcove between the two main buttresses.

Thin Wall Buttress

This is the main buttress for the strongest boulders with lots of powerful problems climbing out across the steep roof however there’s plenty for mere mortals to try. The hanging left arete, Fiddler’s Arete HVS 5b, is the most popular climb at Goldsborough. The start is the hardest but the finish feels high and is well protected if you have dragged a rope behind you. Fiddler HVS 5a starts to the right of the arête then eventually joins the arete high up, a direct finish is a tricky E1 5b. The steep right arête is climbed by Jumping Jack Flash 6A+, if you’re successful on this be sure you have someone ready to take a picture. If you found that too easy then try starting on Beth’s Traverse 7C. This crimpy test piece is much sought after but requires impressive finger strength.

Darren Stephenson on Thin Wall Special 5+ © Steve Crowe 2003

Baldersdale Buttress

The final south facing wall, Baldersdale Buttress is a pleasant buttress with some shorter problems. The tricky Plagiarist and Plagiarist Left-hand both get 6A, This One’s for Bill 7A+ climbs the centre of the wall on poor crimps. The arete is climbed by Bass Special Font 4+, it’s easier than it looks but no giveaway.

Ryan Plews on This One's For Bill 7A+ — Ryan Plews on This One’s For Bill 7A+

South East Boulder.

There’s a clutch of testing short problems and some tricky traverses on the South East Boulder including the popular The Tide is Turning 6C which is harder than it first looks.

Karin Magog on The Tide is Turning 6C © Steve Crowe 2003

The North Face

The climbing on the north face is on smaller and less frequented boulders and short walls. These climbs are best enjoyed on a mid summer evening but take a brush as they are a bit neglected unfortunately.

Around the Block 7A © Steve Crowe collection

Guidebooks

There is no definitive guidebook currently in print. These are all selective guides which includes Goldsborough;

Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 by Steve Dunning & Ryan Plews 2011

Northern England by Chris Craggs. Rockfax 2008

Mini Guide PDF

Goldsborough PDF

24/01/202413/02/2024

Climbing in Caithness

Exploring the sea cliffs on the east coast.

Karin and I first became aware of the rock climbing developments in Caithness in 2003 when Jo George reported Sarclet Pimpernel and Groove Armada by Trevor Wood, Guy Robertson and Dave Porter on the brilliant Scotland Online website. We always planned to go sometime to check it out but we never quite managed to drag ourselves away from the awesomeness of the West Highlands. It wasn’t until Guy Robertson published his fantastic book The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland in 2020 that we finally put our plans into action.

We both love climbing on sea cliffs and three Caithness cliffs were described in Guy’s coffee table book; Sgaps by Murdoch Jamieson, Ellen’s Geo by Simon Nadin and Sarclet by Rob Christie. The fantastic photography was a great help for getting a feeling for the place before we’d even left home. Sea cliffs are notorious for finding the right place to abseil in but we soon found ourselves at Sarclet and tied our ropes to the three abseil stakes.

Sarclet

We warmed up on the awesome HVS Groove Armada then Karin lead the spectacular E1 Sarclet Pimpernel. While belaying we were both drawn to the well chalked lines of Northern Alliance and Djapana two fantastic looking E3’s. By the time we climbed those we could clearly see the lines of Orchid Hunter, Time Bandit, and The Harr Bringer. We were already hooked!

It was the last day of good weather on another trip before we got to try those three routes. We decided on an early start to make the most of the morning sun and I was soon enjoying perfect conditions on the sheltered The Orchid Hunter E3, however as Karin topped out the wind picked up and heavy rain started. Disappointed we retreated to the cafe where we checked the ongoing forecast again, it was dire, but the sun was back out so we suddenly decided to take the chance and walked back in with fresh determination. Karin made quick work of the steep and impressive Haar Bringer E4, tricky route finding weaving between the overlaps, I was relived to second this one. I preferred the look of Time Bandit E4, which I thought was very good, bolder than I anticipated and certainly no push over.

Around the corner on the North East face we climbed Walking on Water E2. It is an excellent steep climb mostly on good holds however the crux was unexpectedly greasy and proved to be more of a challenge than anticipated. Early morning sun and wind off the land would probably provide better conditions.

Geo of Creagan Righe (Sgaps)

Karin abseiling into Geo of Creagan Righe (aka Sgaps)

Sgaps (Geo of Creagan Righe) is one of the more accessible crags at Caithness with one of the hardest climbs established in the area so far, God’s Gift, a tough looking E7. This impressive geo is littered with strong lines for the fit climbers. While the continuous climbing on Deep Joy E3/4 and Big Sky Country E4/5 makes both memorable experiences, the best of the bunch is undoubtedly the well protected and well pumpy Spummin’ Marvellous E2/3.

Ellen’s Geo

Ellen’s Wall is understandably popular as it has a terrific collection of routes mostly between E1 to E4. It’s difficult to select a highlight because everything we’ve climbed there has been a bit special.

The first route we climbed on Ellen’s Wall was the brilliant Hundreds and Thousands E2 5c. One of the best is certainly Strata Gem E3 5c but we say that after every route we’ve climbed on that wall. Non Stop Nitty Gritty is another memorable E3 5c in a spectacular situation and the brilliant Fracture Clinic E4 5c is already a classic.

Karin leading Hundreds and Thousands E2 5c

Strata Gem E3, Ellen’s Wall — Karin leading Hundreds and Thousands E2 5c

We frequently have spectators on board the Caithness Seacoast tours shouting encouragement too! Karin is in the exposed hanging groove of Toad in the Shoe E2 5b.

Ellen’s Wall from the Caithness Seacoast tour boat.

Latheronwheel

The popular Latheronwheel is the first venue encountered when you arrive at Caithness. It has a pleasant 10 minute approach from the harbour and a good selection of enjoyable sub extreme climbs.

Stepping Out and Pistachio are two sought out Severes. Puffin Attack VS is a fun face climb and if you’re looking for something a little harder Guillemot Crack and Positive Mental Attitude are a pair of popular HVS’s. High tides or big seas can restrict what you can climb but the routes around Fall Out HVS at Latheronwheel has saved a few showery days for us due to its easy access.

Karin leading Fallout HVS at Latheronwheel

Alan following Rob up the short and sharp Fallout HVS at Latheronwheel — Karin leading Fallout HVS at Latheronwheel

Skerry Mor, Mid Clyth

We’ve climbed a lot at the friendly Skerry Mòr, Mid Clyth. The wall has strong crack and groove lines providing many of the easier lines with good protection and great character. Karin and I had gone for the harder face climbs but couldn’t avoid the draw of Sprockletop VS and Maelstrom HVS. Finally, Silverfish E1 is a superb route with a hard start. Great warm down, but certainly not recommend as a warmup!

At the other extreme we both led the fantastic but bold Impending Doom E5, after a close inspection on abseil assured us that there was adequate protection where you need it. I was pleased that Karin led The Annunciation E3/4. Originally given E2, E4 in the new guide may be too generous. Perhaps E3 but the crucial cam is small, Karin had to drop a loop to pull up the appropriate size micro cam while hanging on in an awkward position! The adjacent route had birds nesting near the top but we liked the look of it so we returned later in the year and Karin led The King’s Pyjamas.

Karin leading The Kings Pyjamas E2 — Karin on The Annunciation E2/4

Some routes here are just so good and it’s a friendly venue where it is easy to abseil back down to strip especially handy when there’s a strong westerly making belaying at the bottom of the crag more pleasant than sat on the top. Using this approach we both led the classic Incubus E3, The Fearful Void E4, Hammer House E4 5c and our own new route, the bold Signed, Sealed, Delivered E3 5b.

We enjoyed the climbing on Inset Wall so much that we climbed all the routes between the steep and sustained Frog Stroker HVS and excellent pumpy Mug’s Game HVS. Susan and Amateur Operatics are interesting E3’s Theatre of Cruelty solid E2 and Stage Fright E2 proved quite tricky in the groove.

Beyond Hammer House is South Bay where we have our eyes on the bold Love is Suicide E3 5b and the even bolder Friends in High Places E4 5b. Sandwiched in between is a bunch of more reasonably graded routes including the popular Oxter, Severe.

South Head of Wick

South Head of Wick has a few very accessible quick drying routes from E2 to E4 on excellent hard sandstone. The Lightness of Being E3, Selkie E2 and Wick & Feeble E2 lay just south of the fisherman’s steps and are all worthwhile. Despite being only 10 metres long they are all surprisingly pumpy. Nearby is the popular tourist attraction of The Castle of Old Wick and adjacent to it is the Stack of Old Wick which is a popular training route for climbers heading to Orkney and The Old Man of Hoy.

Guidebooks

There has been a lot of development since the definitive guide to Caithness was published by the Scottish Mountaineering Club in 2004. The best guidebook is the selective Scottish Rock (SMC/Wired) which covers Sarclet, Ellen’s Geo, Skerry Mor (Mid Clyth), Geo of Reagan Right Clyth(Sgaps) and Latheronwheel. Gary Latter published the 3rd edition of his popular Scottish Rock Volume 2: North in 2020 and it covers Latheronwheel, Sarclet and Stack of Old Wick. If current guidebooks leave you wanting more the SMC have now made their entire routes database public here.

Scottish Rock Volume 2: North Gary Latter. (3rd Edition 2020) — Scottish Rock Climbs (SMC Wired) Compiled by Kevin Howett

Further Reading

“The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland by Guy Robertson is the 2021 Banff Mountain Book Award-winning anthology of outrageous climbing adventures from 26 of the most extraordinary sea cliffs across Scotland.” including three on the east coast of Caithness.

The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland by Guy Robertson in 2020

Tick List

Karin and I still have lots we’d like to do. Classics like Silver Surfer HVS at Sarclet, Brains as well as Braun E4 at Ellen’s Geo and Cauliflower in the Soup E5 at Sgaps. There’s so many Caithness Classics that I’ve added a list on UK Climbing. We have only just scratched the surface. Every trip we’ve made, we have returned home with an ever increasing to do list. Hidden Wall and Clythness North is high on the list and if the training goes well maybe we’ll have a look at God’s Gift.

Rest Day Activities

There’s lots to see and do in and around Caithness but our favourite pastime is to visit the fantastic small harbours along the coast. They all have their unique character and fascinating past. Lybster harbour was a busy fishing port during the boom in the herring fishing and although much quieter these days, it is still perhaps the busiest one we’ve visited. Many of them are tucked away down narrow little roads but are well worth seeking out. The recently renovated Whaligoe Steps, which are adjacent to the parking for Ellen’s Wall, are a very popular tourist destination and well worth a walk down either before or after climbing. The small car park gets rammed though, so an early start is recommended to get parked if you’re heading to the crag. There are also numerous ancient stone tombs/burial sites to visit, plus an archaeological trial near Loch of Yarrows that you can walk round.

The area also has a diverse mix of cafes for those damp days. We particularly like Wickers World next to the harbour in Wick, with its wide range of good quality home cooked food at reasonable prices.

Caithness Seacoast

William and Adelaine Munro run Caithness Seacoast tours from Harbour Road, Wick Harbour.

07/09/202231/01/2024

El Desfiladero de La Hermida

This is the definitive sport climbing guide to La Hermida Gorge by Richie Patterson.

El Desfiladero de La Hermida is the definitive sport climbing guide to La Hermida gorge which straddles the Asturias/Cantabria border in NW Spain. It contains 24 never before published crags and nearly 700 routes, many of which have only recently been developed. The whole gorge from Pechon on the coast, to the alpine meadows of Cabanes, has a fantastic variety of single pitch sport climbing on generally excellent limestone. The routes are graded from very easy, on many accessible roadside slabs, to almost impossible up in the “almost inaccessible” world class cave of Carcalosa. This valley is covered by the second edition of the Roca Verde guide but the El Desfiladero de La Hermida guide has even more sectors included. A generous percentage from sales of the Roca Verde guide have funded some of the more recent development. The secrets of the most sought after crags in the valley, including the world-class venue of Cicera, are now described in detail. Clear photodiagrams are complemented by some excellent action photography. There is certainly something here for everyone at whatever grade you climb. A 70m rope should be considered a minimum but some of the newer hard routes advise a 100m rope as preferable, 20 quick draws will be enough for most of the routes covered in this guide.

The Climbing The crags are all situated on the Eastern flank of the Picos de Europa in or close to La Hermida gorge which straddles the border of Cantabria and Asturias in Northern Spain. The area is less than an hours drive from the airport and ferry terminals at Santander. There are 24 crags described in detail in this definitive guide to the area, many for the first time, the highlights include Rumenes, El Infierno, Cicera and Carcalosa. One or two of the sectors still have some trad climbs so be sure to read the guide carefully and/or carry a small rack of gear. There are many classic multi pitch mountain routes in the nearby Picos de Europa to enjoy but they are not covered by this guidebook.

The first crag described here is the sea cliff at Pechon with easy access and unique atmosphere for the area. Both sectors are slightly overhanging with a good selection of routes 6a-8a. Belen 6a and Jandro cotizando 6a are popular easier routes then there is loads of choice at 7a-7b but La vieja escuela 7a+ and Kurt Albert 7b are very enjoyable.

Estraguena is a small crag but packed with quality, south-east facing with plenty of afternoon shade. It is almost roadside but not really family friendly due to the awkward approach and the narrow ledge at it’s base. The crag offers a great introduction to tufa climbing in the valley and is generously graded, making it a good starting point. Princesa deva 7a, Marabunta 7a+, Alpinista Egoista 7a+, Granma 7c, Goliath 7c, Imperfectus bultus 7b+ and Austurcantabra 7c+ all standout. Primera intencion 7b is also good but I thought it was hard for the grade.

A short way further up the valley are Rumenes and nearby El infierno, they are among the best crags in the gorge with long and steep tufa climbing especially in the 7’s and with some 8a classics. They both get plenty of shade in the afternoon.

Probably the most sought after routes at Rumenes are the outstanding Invocando de Onan 7a and the unrelenting 40m pump fest Sindrome de Stendhal 8a. However Vinarock 7a+, Rumenes power y albino 7a+, Apokalimnos 7b, Tubular hell 7b+, El dia del arquero 7c and Panico nuclear 7c are all exceptional. Some of the highlights up at El infierno include the steep and burly Malas Pulgas 7a, Hellboy 7a+, Cachimente 7b, Balambambu 7c, El algoritmo Wallman 8a and the brilliant 47 ronin 8a.

The next crag of note is the accessible Urdon with a selection of popular routes in the 6’s and 7’s and three good 8a’s. El pajaro momificado is an enjoyable 6b with a harder extension at 7a. Effecto Domino 7band the unnamed 7c to its left are both very good. Vias y mujeres 8a is a relatively new route that has already reached classic status. The car park is large, however this is also the starting point for a very popular walk so all the parking spots can be taken up very early in the day.

A short way further up the road is another south facing crag which enjoys the sun until about 4pm. This is the accessible El Salmon with many routes at more reasonable grades. The photo ticks here are El polivaliente 6b and El retorno de mechas 7a.

Cueva del Ribero, Sector Clonica and Cueva del Corazon are three popular crags close to the village of La Hermida. Rebelion en la granja 7a, Chucho’s Wall 7b and Estira la Parra 7b+ all standout. The recently developed Cueva Hermida, a pleasant 20m walk from the village centre, is crammed full of steep powerful routes for the strongest climbers. There are also many smaller quieter venues worth checking out as you progress up the gorge. Parelosa is shady with good routes in the high 7’s that would benefit from more traffic. One of the best routes is Relatividad 7c+ however the photo tick is La coquilla asesina 8a which is a 15m extension of Perirrojo 7b. Dolce Galbana 8a+ is a spectacular 26m route, with three distinct cruxes, that is rapidly becoming a power endurance classic.

Valle de Bajes is a side valley rising out from La Hermida towards the village of Bajes, which is a popular starting point for walks up into the Picos de Europa and is also well known for it’s speciality cheeses. The Bajes valley also contains a few accessible crags which are ideal for novices. The quick drying crag Calabreru is more difficult to access and the belays are off narrow ledges. The wall is gently overhanging, the routes are hard and up to 40m long. The photo tick here is Eowyn 7c+.

Cicera is 15 minutes pleasant stroll followed by 5-10 minutes steeply uphill. This north facing venue provides plenty of shade and it’s needed because the route are hard. Lots of 7’s and 8’s to try up here. Pacifis 7b+ and Mancha roja 7c are both hard but remain justifiably popular. Deambulante was overgraded at 8a but the climbing is good so it should remain popular as a hard 7c+. The excellent Troncomovil 8a has a tricky diedre to negotiate then an endurance fight to the top. If you prefer tufa endurance then Veneno azul 8a is considered a classic. Walking on the Moon 8a+ is a hard and technical test piece, the superb Arte si quieres 8a+ is also worth checking out. For 40m of pure resistance try Entropia and Treinta anos de locura 8b, both are superb. At a more reasonable grade La Corbata de Unquera 7a is well worth doing but possibly not the best choice for a warm-up. Steep and intense at the start, then technical face climbing higher up. The next route right Naturaleza Viva 7a+ is also a popular route on some curious iron intrusions.

If that’s all a bit too easy, on the opposite side of the gorge you will find Carcalosa. An aerobic 45 minutes of scrambling steeply up, occasionally pulling on ropes, leads to the huge cave with routes up to 9a and harder projects. The right side is a bit more amenable with the classic Dimensiones paralelas 7c+ tackling the twin tufa system.

There are some more smaller river side sectors to check out as you travel further up the gorge including Placas de Esquilleu. This has a slab that is very popular with novices. Nearby is El Lado Oscuro (The Dark Side) and if you are willing to wade the river you will be rewarded with some long routes at 7c and three at 8’s. The excellent Museo Coconut 7c and Gretaline 8a+ are both over 30m long.

Cabanes comprises of six sectors with a good spread of grades that all overlook the stunning alpine meadows and enjoying spectacular views of the Picos de Europa.

The ancient town of Potes offers shops, cafes and restaurants making it an interesting day destination. La Reunion Bar in Potes is a great spot with good beer, music and wifi along with climbing info & topos. Posada La Cuadrona at La Hermida also has wifi and topos for some of the more secretive sectors.

Beyond Potes is the small sunny sector of Los Zaborros de los Llanos which is unusual in that it has steep easy routes, Vs and 6s, ideal for novices wanting to progress from slab climbing. Finally don’t miss the dozen or so gently overhanging pump fests ranging from 6b to 7b at the south facing Cosgaya up near the head of the valley.

Rest Day Activities

A superb way to relax on a rest day and recover from the powerful wrestling with the many steep tufa climbs in the area, is to enjoy the freely accessible hot springs situated underneath the bridge that leads to the Balneario Spa Hotel. There is no signage so it is very easy to miss despite being adjacent to the main road. Other activities could include hillwalking in the stunning mountains of the Picos de Europa, Via Ferrata, bike rides or the telepherique from Fuente De. Alternatively perhaps a trip out to the coast to surf or just sit on the beach.

Accommodation

There are ample places for climbers to sleep rough in a van. Camping la Viorna is a popular campsite near Potes, while there is almost too much choice if you prefer to be closer to the coast.

30/04/202131/01/2024

Bouldering at Cresciano and Crironico in Ticino

Updated Steve Crowe 30^th April 2021

In early 2005 I was invited by Andy Earl on a trip to go bouldering on the superb granite blocs of Cresciano and Crironico in the Ticino area in Switzerland. I’d gone along with a serious knee injury and although my main role was as a photographer I couldn’t resist packing my climbing shoes.

Everyone climbed as a team, they took on a lot of serious highball problems that required a lot of mats and attentive spotters. Generally the rule was once one person got up the problem then everyone moved on. Most of the climbs attempted received successful ascents but not necessarily by the person in my photos. There was some terrific banter and looking back it was a privilege to be part of amazing trip to be a part of.

Andy Earl sponsored by E9 © Steve Crowe 2006

The strong British team of Andy Earl, Gaz Parry, Ian Vickers, Percy Bishton and the young Jamie Cassidy (Taz) was given an international flavour when we were joined for the week by Wouter Jongeneelen and Dennis Teijsse two of the strongest climbers from the Netherlands at that time, (oh and myself and my cameras).

Flicking through Gaz’s guidebook was impressive with whole sections already ticked. On previous trips Gaz was more interested in mileage but this time he sought to fill the gaps and he managed this with great efficiency. The highlight of the trip for Gaz was probably success on the very powerful Extreme Ironing. For the rest of the team however it was his effeminate victory scream as Gaz topped out on another eight, La Pelle.

Considering that Andy Earl’s trip was marred by a bad cold he still managed to pull off some astoundingly quick ascents of many of the hardest problems in the area mixed with a few spicy highballs that had his spotters unsure whether to spot Andy or protect themselves as he plummeted ground wards prior to his eventual success on Stinky Pete’s a mere Font 7B!

Andy Earl climbing Stinky Pete 7B Cresciano © Steve Crowe 2005

Andy, Gaz and Wouter all managed to make short work of the standing start to the infamous Dreamtime (8A+) for Wouter success came on his last attempt of his last problem for the week.

Ian spent this trip taping his tattered tips and quietly clearing up many outstanding problems that had eluded him on previous visits. Butch spent a long time looking for the right problem to get his 8A tick in for the trip, steeper the better. After an awesome flash of Soucoupe LH (7C+) he found just the thing on the last day at Crironico, a powerful sequence across a huge horizontal roof overlooking the valley.

Andy Earl on Soucupe LH 7C+ at Crironico © Steve Crowe 2005 www.climbonline.co.uk — Andy Earl on Soucupe LH 7C+ at Crironico © Steve Crowe 2005

While Percy was pleased to tick an 8A, the popular le Pillar at Crironico.

The grades in the Cresciano Area have a reputation for being soft but that’s not how I found it, variable certainly. Some of the warmups in the sixes appeared to be just as challenging as the many more famous grade eight problems that succumbed to the team like La Boule, Franks Wild Years, Kirk Windtain and The Jungle.

04/03/202131/01/2024

Point Five Gully on Ben Nevis

Walking in, Ben Nevis @ Steve Crowe 1987

I clearly remember that weekend in 1987, we had quite an epic adventure on Ben Nevis. Bob Bennett had written the Lake District Winter Climbs Guide and climbed all the important winter climbs in the Lake District adding many new routes there too but he still hadn’t had an opportunity to climb the super classic Point Five Gully V,5 up on Ben Nevis.

Heading up to climb Point Five Gully V,5 © Steve Crowe

We set off up the hill on a perfect day. Bob was so psyched to finally be getting to grips with Point Five, he allocated the pitches so that he got the plum pitch! I happily set off up the first pitch of the historic Point Five Gully, expecting an easy ride, suddenly as I climbed up I got smashed in the face by a small but painful lump of ice, it was a warning to keep my head down! I set up a good sheltered stance off to the side and out of the line of fie! Soon I would be seconding Bob on the infamous second pitch.

Starting up the First Pitch, Point Five Gully V,5 © Steve Crowe

Bob followed me and was soon making smooth work of the second pitch, conditions were excellent. Just as some spindrift rushed down the pitch I thought I could hear Bob calling down “climb when you’re ready”.

Bob leading the second pitch on Point Five Gully V,5 © Steve Crowe

I waited safely to one side for the spindrift to ease but it continued to get worse. After quite a while I thought to myself time is pressing so I’d better set off now and it should soon ease and anyway I am on top rope. I called “climbing” and traversed out and into the spindrift. Keeping my head well down I climbed quickly with the confidence of the rope above me and in a blur was soon stood below pitch three and finally the spindrift had stopped. “Well done Steve” Bob shouted across “You may as well continue , there’s no need to come over here.” With no more incident the angle eased and we were soon up on the summit.

Bob Bennett on Point Five Gully V,5 © Steve Crowe

Another party were just leaving the summit as we sat down all self congratulatory for a quick snack. Visiability was difficult in near whiteout conditions so I dug out my crib sheet for navigating off the top. Meanwhile another party arrived at the top. But no!, it was the same party that had just left and walked around in a big loop only to end up back at the summit cairn all confused! We all set off together this time I was navigating down, counting paces… Soon there was more voices appearing out of the mist “Are you heading down? do you know where the top of the descent gully is? came we join you?” So there I was leading a dozen folks down off the hill. One party left us to descend back down the north face towards the hut while the day trippers followed me down out out of the clouds and safely back towards the cars. While walking down Bob commented on how fast I had climbed the crux pitch and how difficult it had been to take in the iced up rope through his belay plate. It was one summer’s evening six months later in a bar in the Lake District that Bob finally admitted that while I climbed the second pitch, head down, he was taking in the ropes had over hand and when I topped the second pitch he didn’t want me to see what happened which is why he pressed me to continue quickly up the third pitch while he sorted out the ropes behind my back as I continued upwards!

Carn Dearg Buttress, Ben Nevis © Steve Crowe