There’s more to climbing in Northumberland than the silky, scary fell sandstone. Tucked away in the shadow of Hadrian’s Wall are the unique dolerite outcrops of Peel Crag and Crag Lough. Local devotee Karin Magog reports from the edge of the Empire. . .
Climbing in Northumberland – ball-bearing sandstone, bold and intimidating routes, under graded? Dance a change? Well how about the clean cut Whin Sill – an abundance of amenable routes: comfortable cracks and positive edges, well protected, reasonably graded? If that sounds tempting then Crag Lough and Peel could be the crags for you. Situated adjacent to Hadrian’s Wall at Once Brewed, in west Northumberland, they offer the highest concentration of quality easier routes in the County, with several three star Diff to VS climbs. Their accessibility and northerly aspect make them great summer evening venues, although their many fine west-facing walls means they enjoy the benefit of the sun from lunchtime onwards.

Crag Lough
Strictly speaking the crag is known as Highshields Crag and it is positioned in an idyllic setting above Crag Lough. Although further from the car park, Crag Lough offers many superb routes in the lower grades and with several west-facing walls, it’s well worth the 20 mins approach time. With over a hundred routes, many of which are up to 20m high, it is one of Northumberland’s largest crags. Crag Lough was first discovered in 1907 by Marcus Beresford, who recorded a number of routes in the 1912 Climbers’ Club Journal, which included the excellent Main Wall. In the 1940s, Basil Butcher, Keith Gregory and other members of what was to become the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club, climbed many of the classics such as Pinnacle Face, Grad’s Groove and Hadrian’s Buttress. The formation of the Crag Lough Club in the1950s led to several of the harder routes being climbed, including the popular Crescent Crack and Y Climb. There was little further development until the 1970s when Bob Hutchinson and John Earl freed Whinstone Churchill and then later that decade Jeff Lamb made the first free ascent of Impossible Wall, on a raiding trip from Cumberland.
Recommended Routes
Pinnacle Face (VS 4c) A well-positioned and popular climb, offering positive climbing on jams and good breaks, with plenty of good protection. The usual approach is to climb the corner behind the pinnacle to the sentry box, before pulling up and right onto the face. However, for the more adventurous amongst you, it is also possible to climb the pinnacle itself and step across or even to back and foot between the pinnacle and the face.
Hadrian’s Buttress (Severe) A very attractive climb which gets the sun from early afternoon. The route follows the eye-catching crack, which off ers good gear and plenty of jams. Alternatively, just use the crack as a layback between the many positive breaks. The choice is yours!

Tarzan (V. Diff ) One of the crag’s many great easier climbs, offering a good variety of climbing techniques as it works its way to the top of the buttress. The route starts by climbing the wall to the right of a deep chimney before stepping back left to a ledge below a deep cleft. This is followed to a strenuous pull onto a ledge, and then the gap between the wall and the pinnacle is climbed before fi nally moving out onto the wall and heading rightwards up this to finish.
Crystal (HVS 5a) An exposed and strenuous route. A tricky overhanging corner leads to the meat of the climb, a steep fl ake crack. Power up this to a good break before deciding whether to go for the delicate traverse right to fi nish up Y-Climb or the more direct fi nish on small rounded holds! Well protected if you can hang around and a good range of medium to large cams and hexes could prove useful!
Main Wall (Severe) A great route offering everything from wall climbing to chimneying, a classic of the crag. It starts with wall climbing before a diffi cult move using twin cracks leads to a good ledge on the arête. From here a groove is followed to a short chimney, which quickly leads to the finishing wall.
Whinstone Churchill (E2 5b) The crag’s most popular Extreme, but no pushover. Fairly strenuous but with good protection, it starts up the corner on the right of the buttress. After moving right after the overhang it then heads back left where a long reach enables the upper groove to be gained. This is followed more easily to the top. The direct start at E3 5c is also well worth doing and is good value for the grade.
Peel Crag
At less than 10 mins from the car park, Peel is a good choice for a quick evening’s climbing. Although discovered at the same time as Crag Lough it was considered too broken to off er quality climbs and was much neglected until the formation of the Crag Lough Club in 1952. Albert Rosher was a key fi gure in the development of the crag, along with such climbers as Frank Carroll, Don Laws, Geoff Oliver, Nev Hannaby, Eric Rayson, Terry Sullivan and John Cheesmond. It was these climbers who during the 1950’s and 60’s climbed many of the classics such as Grooves, Certifi cate X, Overhanging Crack and Rock Island Line. In the 1970’s Bill Wayman freed Ritual, the crag’s hardest route.
Recommended Routes

Sunset (Mild Severe) The classic of the crag, getting any sun from mid-afternoon. A tricky start leads to a fi ne corner, which offers quality climbing with holds and gear just where you need them. A brief respite on a good ledge can be enjoyed before moving up to the overhang and the exposed traverse left. A tricky pull onto the ledge then a couple more moves lead to the top. A high quality climb with good protection.
Overhanging Crack (Mild VS 4c) Interesting face climbing on small holds leads to a steep corner crack. This succumbs by jamming and bridging and fortunately eases towards the top.

Rock Island Line (E1 5b) The best of the E1s, well protected but strenuous. The cracked lower wall is climbed mainly on positive edges where good technique and footwork pays dividends. Once the overhang is reached the character changes and a quick, powerful pull soon leads to the easier upper wall.
Tiger’s Overhang (VS 4c) Very similar to the previous route but with thankfully bigger holds. The lower wall does enough to hold your interest and leads to a comfortable position below the roof. From here arrange plenty of gear before committing to the pull over onto the headwall – don’t forget to bridge! Now cruise to the top in style.

Check out these too!
CRAG LOUGH
Bracket (V.Diff )
Tarzan’s Mate (V.Diff )
Jezebel (Diff )
Raven’s Tower (MVS 4b)
Crescent Cracks (VS 5a)
Y-Climb (HVS 5a)
Grad’s Groove (MVS 4b)
Impossible Wall (E4 6b)
Great Chimney (Sev.)
Virtually every route on
Dexter Buttress! (Diff – E3 5c)

PEEL CRAG
Green Line (E1 5b)
Certificate X (E1 5b)
Grooves (Sev 4b)
Ritual (E4 6a)

Pubs
The popular Twice Brewed Inn offers a warm welcome to walkers and climbers. Serving good food and many fine types of ale, this ancient coach house also provides accommodation.
Accommodation
There is an excellent Youth Hostel at Once Brewed. Camping, as well as B&B, is available a short walk westwards at Whinshields Farm.
Other Attractions
Don’t forget to marvel at the Wall itself, built many years ago by the Romans. There are also several Roman forts in the area which are well worth a visit, with Vercovicium at Housesteads being the most extensive.