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White Stone

White Stone Crag 

Grid Ref: SE 528992

 

This is small boulder field at the head of Scugdale labelled as White Stone Crag on the 1:25000 OS map. The rock is good and the setting fantastic with extensive views down the valley. The climbing is pleasant though the boulders don't dry as fast as the popular Scugdale escarpment.

 

Approach: Park in the normal place and walk past Scudale Hall. After 150m take the signed path up to Barkerís Ridge. On the ridge, take the large track South until level with the corner of the plantation to the West (100m before the track turns left). Now head right onto the moor and contour whilst dropping a bit of height and the top of the West Wall Boulder, with its tree, will come into view. In Summer you have to fight the bracken to get to the boulders. The problems provide a good circuit for the average climber but there is potential for harder problems.

 

 

The Northern Boulder
The first boulder on the walk in.

1. Start at the blunt West arÍte and incut foothold at thigh height. Gain height then grope right for the large nose and up. (5c?)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

2. The arÍte direct. (5a)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

The Northern Boulder                                                                                                                                          Photo Mark Buxton
 

 

The West Wall Boulder

You canít miss the impressive West face.

3. The dirty East side has a low curving flake. SS and pull up on the flake to then mantel over the larger flake/sidepull. Stay out of the dirty groove to the right. (4c?)

Mark Buxton 27/9/09

 

4. The South East arÍte. SS using the crimpy arÍte (no reaching around to the jug) and pocket. (5b/5c?)

Mark Buxton 27/9/09

 

5. Short awkward groove. Harder if done static. (4a)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09
 

6. The slab. No groove, no vertical crack. Use only 2 small horizontal cracks for hands. (5b)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09
 

7. South West arÍte on South side. No vertical crack. Shorties might struggle. (5b)

Mark Buxton 27/9/09

There are a couple of obvious lines on the North face. The NW arÍte looks good!

 

7a. The North West ArÍte 5b

Climb the arÍte to a good flake hold and then up via the obvious runnel. Highball!
David Waburton December 2009


Also the main west face which is impressive, has an obvious sloping shelf system running up its right side. This goes at 5c and again is quite high, however the landing is flat and grassy. Both standing starts.

7b. The Shelf 5c

Climb the series of shelf systems on the right of the west face to the left of the SW arÍte. Tricky to start and high to finish.
David Waburton December 2009


It does look like a nice spring / autumn bouldering circuit for those who like that sort of thing. The unclimbed main wall looks about E4 6c!
 

 

 

 

 

The West Wall Boulder                                                                                                                                          Photo Mark Buxton
 

 

 

 

 

 

The Flutings Boulder

 


8. Straight up the middle of the boulder to the left when facing the Flutings Boulder. (4c)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

9. The arÍte direct to the summit flutings. Reaching around left for the largest fluting/crack feels like cheating. (5a)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

10. Direct over the nose. (4c)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

11. Just left of the NW arÍte on pockets and ledges. (4a)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

12. Around the arÍte is the SW face with its curving overlap. Use the obvious deep slot up on the right side of the wall to gain the top. (5b)

Mark Buxton 27/9/09



The next boulder along has an undercut nose which the strong might find possible. Pass another boulder to reach The Ripples Boulder.

The Flutings Boulder                                                                                                                                          Photo Mark Buxton
 

 

 

 

The Ripples Boulder


13. NE arÍte direct. (4b)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

14. SE arÍte on the south side. (4c)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

15. Straight up the South face. (4b)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

16. From the left end of the South face traverse right using the top, then the thin horizontal cracks when available. Finish up 14. (5a)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09
 

The Ripples Boulder                                                                                                                                          Photo Mark Buxton
 

 

 

 

The Humble Boulder
The last boulder on the circuit is to the North and downhill from The Flutings Boulder.

17. The right side of the W arÍte. (4b)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

18. The left side of the W arÍte, with pocket. (4b)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09

19. The centre of the slab is harder than it looks. (5a)

Mark Buxton 4/5/09
 

The Humble Boulder                                                                                                                                          Photo Mark Buxton
 

 

White Stone Mini Guide (PDF) Adobe Acrobat Reader Required