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Turkey Nab

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 93

Map Ref:  NZ598060

Altitude: 280m

Aspect: West

Approach: 15 minutes

Mini Guide: Turkey Nab Mini Guide (PDF)    

 

This nab is situated about 1½ miles east of lngleby Greenhow on Battersby Moor, just behind Bank Foot Farm. The climbs are not on the Nab proper but about 20m to the south of it. They are about 15 minutes walk from Bank Foot Farm. 

The buttresses are plainly visible from the gate leading onto the old Farndale road. A faint track leads steeply to the first climb on the left. 

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

The rightwards-slanting corner crack to the left of Battersby Buttress can be climbed at VD.

 

1. Battersby Buttress   10m   S

The first prominent buttress from the left of the rocks. Start at the foot of the wall, which is ascended on small holds to a narrow ledge. Continue up the slabs above to a large ledge and belays. Easy ledges above give access to the Moor.  

Arthur Barker. Early 1930s.

 

2. Corner Direct   10m   HS 4b

Start at the arête right of Battersby Buttress. Ascend the arête direct to a ledge. Finish as for Oblique Crack or Battersby Buttress.  

Tony Marr, Ken Jackson. May 1970

 

3. Batter Your Face   10m   HVS 5a

The wall and top groove to the right of Corner Direct. Looks harder than that!  

Early 1980s.


4. Oblique Crack   10m   S

Starts round the corner to the right of Battersby Buttress. Climb the twin cracks by either jamming or laybacking to a stance. Continue up the final difficult corner crack.  

Arthur Barker. Early 1930s

 

5. Chicken Run   10m   VS 4c

Start 5m right of Oblique Crack. Climb the small corner to the overhang, step right, then climb to a ledge, belay.  

Mike Stellings, Tony Marr. July 1963.


6. Headline   10m   MVS 4b

The steep slab between Chicken Run and Diffmans Dilemma.  

Early 1980s.

 

7. Diffman’s Dilemma   10m   HS 4b

Climb the obvious arête a few feet right of Chicken Run.  

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings. July 1963.

 

7a. Jolly Roger   E2 5c   *
The arête of Diffman's is climbed on its right hand/over hanging side (strictly) to small gear and a high crux.
Jason Wood,
Roger Macintosh 14th May 2009

Jolly Roger E2 5c first ascent.

 

8. Parallel Cracks Left-hand   10m   VS 4c

A few feet right of Diffman’s Dilemma and around the corner are two obvious crack lines ending at a ledge. Climb the left hand line, moving left above the ledge.  

FA. Originally climbed on aid in 1961 by Peter Waterman, graded A1.
FFA. Climbed free in the early 1970s by several locals [including me], not sure who was first.

 

9.  Parallel Cracks Right-hand   10m   HVS 5b

A fine test of finger locking, following the right-hand crack line.  

FA. Originally climbed on aid in 1961 by Peter Waterman, graded A1.
FFA. Climbed free in the early 1970s by several locals [including me], not sure who was first.

 

10. Extra   10m   VS 4c

Climb the crack right of Parallel Crack Right Hand.

Early 1980s.

 

11. Turkey Scraps   8m   HS 4a
Well if you have tried the rest then to the right of Extra is yet another crack. (A little sandy).

Early 1980s.

 

The following details are taken from:

http://moorsfa.blogspot.com/2011/06/draft-8-function-var-scribd-document.html


The Alien

It is still under developed and can offer some good highball eliminates at a range of grades, with definite future potential. The only recorded line is...


12. Eliminate Wall   8m   Font 6c   *
Use the two small crimps right of the arête to reach the break, without straying out right to better holds. Finish more easily.

 

13. Mrs Thompson   8m   HS 4b (Font 3)
Climb the wall to the right of Eliminate Wall until the break, traverse left and tackle the main bulge at it's centre. Bold.

Matthew Ferrier, Jack Graham summer 2011


The Castle

 

14. The Arête   4m   Font 4+
The stepped arête can be climbed on either side to a sloping top out. Poor landing!
 

15. The Wall   4m   Font 5   *
Climb the wall past two breaks

 

16. Little Adrian's Climb   4m   Font 5+
Climb the right side of the wall to finish up a rightward trending crack line.

Matthew Ferrier, Jack Graham summer 2011

 

Otterhill Bastion is very near and worth checking out.

 

Bouldering
More details regarding the bouldering at this venue at betaguides.com

 

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

 

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