Effective Strength and Endurance Training for Bouldering and Route Climbing
The novice rock climber ought to get out and climb as many different places, rock types and styles of climbing as much as they can.
The good climbers will enjoy climbing at their limit as often as possible.
The elite will endure mind numbing training sessions while striving to improve.
The wise climbers will also train their antagonistic muscles to maintain balance.
"The hardest thing to do is to start training, training itself is easier." Iker Pou
"At the start of any training regime it's important to get into shape by doing low-intensity, high volume workouts." Ben Moon
"In general, endurance work is all about volume, so if you have got the time then the best place to get fit is out on the crag, simply putting the mileage in." Ben Moon
"I concentrate especially hard on my hands. I take time to feel the holds, not only to find the best way to grip them but also to find out what is the best way to put my feet on them later. François Legrand
Training Tips Online
The following list provides links to some of the best training tips available online:
Training hurts. Training can be boring. Training will not make you cooler. Training for Sports Climbing by Alex Barrows
Fantastic fingerboard workouts and an inspirational blog.
Eric Horst's Training for Climbing.
"You have to tear muscles down before you can build them up."
Eva Lopez Climbing Coaching (This is the English version)
"maximum finger strength method is based on something that looks very straightforward..." Eva
Jan Hojer Talking Training on YouTube
Metolious Training Guide. "We are not professional exercise people but we are serious about our climbing..."
Mike explains Power Endurance Training.
You could have your own Moon Board.
Steve has been a professional coach for over six years with experience in both one-one and group sessions. "Power Endurance is the key to good route climbing." read Steve's article on 8a.nu.
Beyond Moves and Technique: The Importance of Core Training
A selection of training books
(2015) "Make or Break by Dave MacLeod is as much for healthy climbers who wish to avoid injury as for those who have already succumbed to an injury." Steve Crowe
The Rock Climber's Training Manual by Mike and Mark Anderson (will get most people climbing 5.13)
(2014) This excellent and detailed book describes the Rock Prodigy training method.
(2013) Gimme Kraft (Give me Strength) is a Training Book & DVD which comes with a nicely presented list of exercises. (Order some gym rings at the same time!)
(2010) "Dave Macleod's training book provides a welcome breath of fresh air for those who are tired of plodding through the same old training information." Neil Gresham
Training for Climbing (second edition) by Eric Horst (will get most people climbing 5.11)
you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable
information here to help you climb harder."
Rock and Ice
"Hunter and Hague, describe climbing as having four components: balance, force, time and space."
(2006) "You hardly have to read a few pages of Arno Ilgner's book on mental factors in climbing to realise that this work is an expression of a lifetime of research, study and passion." Dave MacLeod on UKC
Many indoors walls offer informal coaching evenings. Personal Coaching and one to ones have also becoming more popular.
Climbnewcastle offer excellent One to One coaching tailored to your personal needs.
Dave runs coaching sessions for up to 5 people based at Harrogate Climbing Centre
Better, Harder, Stronger. Ian loves to see climbers both young and old achieving their full potential.
"Ian is the best climbing coach in the world" Rose Dunne, Age 8
Hazel's approach to her own climbing and to her coaching is all in the mind. "Over the years I’ve spent a lot of time observing my own fears and doubts and also those of climbers around me."
Climb with Katherine Schirrmacher. Whatever your style of climbing, or
experience, Katherine will be able to help you improve.
Neil Gresham is widely regarded as one of the world’s most experienced climbing coaches.
Adrian has been climbing for over 20 years and has been a well respected coach for over ten years.
Tom specialises in designing periodised training programmes for elite level climbers so, whether you’re aiming for 9a, 8a or just want to take the next step forward Tom can help you improve.
Suzan Dudink is originally from Holland, she moved to England to live with her partner Andy Earl (former British boulder champion, Worldcup winner and manager/owner of Climb Newcastle). Suz is a well qualified coach and excellent route setter. "Suzan puts a lot of time and thought in to each session. She is extremely skilful at watching people climb and pinpointing exactly where they can improve" Emma Grimwood
Fingerboarding and Deadhanging
Visit our dedicated Fingerboarding and Deadhanging page for a collection of links to various ideas and protocols for Fingerboarding and Deadhanging.
Visit our dedicated Fingerboarding and Deadhanging page