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Training Tips



Karin Magog climbing on an indoor board


Effective Strength and Endurance Training for Bouldering and Route Climbing

The novice rock climber ought to get out and climb as many different places, rock types and styles of climbing as much as they can.

The good climbers will enjoy climbing at their limit as often as possible.

The elite will endure mind numbing training sessions while striving to improve.

The wise climbers will also train their antagonistic muscles to maintain balance.


"The hardest thing to do is to start training, training itself is easier." Iker Pou

"At the start of any training regime it's important to get into shape by doing low-intensity, high volume workouts." Ben Moon

"In general, endurance work is all about volume, so if you have got the time then the best place to get fit is out on the crag, simply putting the mileage in." Ben Moon

"I concentrate especially hard on my hands. I take time to feel the holds, not only to find the best way to grip them but also to find out what is the best way to put my feet on them later. François Legrand



Training Tips Online

The following list provides links to some of the best training tips available online:


Alex Barrows Blog

Training hurts. Training can be boring. Training will not make you cooler.  Training for Sports Climbing by Alex Barrows



Fantastic fingerboard workouts and an inspirational blog.


Dave MacLeod read his popular online training blog. Also check out his books "9 out of 10 Climbers..." and "Make or Break".


DPM Climbing

DPM climbing ask Should you train? and suggests One workout every climber should do, this is an excellent antagonistic workout .


Eric Horst's Training for Climbing.

"You have to tear muscles down before you can build them up." 


Eva Lopez Climbing Coaching (This is the English version)

"maximum finger strength method is based on something that looks very straightforward..." Eva


Jan Hojer Training

Jan Hojer Talking Training on YouTube


Metolious  Training Guide. "We are not professional exercise people but we are serious about our climbing..."


Mike Doyle 

Mike explains Power Endurance Training.


Moon Climbing

You could have your own Moon Board.


Steve McLure

Steve has been a professional coach for over six years with experience in both one-one and group sessions. "Power Endurance is the key to good route climbing." read Steve's article on 8a.nu.


UK Bouldering

The Science behind training for climbing and some Top Training Tips.


UK Climbing

Beyond Moves and Technique: The Importance of Core Training





A selection of training books


Make or Break

(2015) "Make or Break by Dave MacLeod is as much for healthy climbers who wish to avoid injury as for those who have already succumbed to an injury." Steve Crowe


The Rock Climber's Training Manual  by Mike and Mark Anderson (will get most people climbing 5.13)

(2014) This excellent and detailed book describes the Rock Prodigy training method.


Gimme Kraft - "Effective climbing training"

(2013) Gimme Kraft (Give me Strength) is a Training Book & DVD which comes with a nicely presented list of exercises. (Order some gym rings at the same time!)


9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

(2010) "Dave Macleod's training book provides a welcome breath of fresh air for those who are tired of plodding through the same old training information." Neil Gresham


Training for Climbing (second edition) by Eric Horst (will get most people climbing 5.11)

(2008) "Whether you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable information here to help you climb harder." Rock and Ice  

Self Coached Climber by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter (will get most people climbing 5.12)
(2006) The Self Coached Climber is packed with detailed training tips for all climbers from novices right through to experts.

"Hunter and Hague, describe climbing as having four components: balance, force, time and space."

The Rock Warrior's Way -  Mental Training for Climbers  by Arno Ilgner

(2006) "You hardly have to read a few pages of Arno Ilgner's book on mental factors in climbing to realise that this work is an expression of a lifetime of research, study and passion." Dave MacLeod on UKC




Many indoors walls offer informal coaching evenings. Personal Coaching and one to ones have also becoming more popular.



Climbnewcastle offer excellent One to One coaching tailored to your personal needs.


Dave Barrans

Dave runs coaching sessions for up to 5 people based at Harrogate Climbing Centre


Ian Dunn

Better, Harder, Stronger.  Ian loves to see climbers both young and old achieving their full potential.

"Ian is the best climbing coach in the world" Rose Dunne, Age 8


Hazel Findley

Hazel's approach to her own climbing and to her coaching is all in the mind. "Over the years I’ve spent a lot of time observing my own fears and doubts and also those of climbers around me."  


Katherine Schirrmacher

Love to Climb with Katherine Schirrmacher. Whatever your style of climbing, or experience, Katherine will be able to help you improve.

Neil Gresham

Neil Gresham is widely regarded as one of the world’s most experienced climbing coaches.


Adrian Berry

Adrian has been climbing for over 20 years and has been a well respected coach for over ten years.


Tom Randell

Tom specialises in designing periodised training programmes for elite level climbers so, whether you’re aiming for 9a, 8a or just want to take the next step forward Tom can help you improve.


Suzan Dudink - Upgrade Climbing

Suzan Dudink is originally from Holland, she moved to England to live with her partner Andy Earl (former British boulder champion, Worldcup winner and manager/owner of Climb Newcastle). Suz is a well qualified coach and excellent route setter. "Suzan puts a lot of time and thought in to each session. She is extremely skilful at watching people climb and pinpointing exactly where they can improve" Emma Grimwood




Fingerboarding and Deadhanging

Visit our dedicated Fingerboarding and Deadhanging page for a collection of links to various ideas and protocols for Fingerboarding and Deadhanging.


Fingerboarding © Steve Crowe

Visit our dedicated Fingerboarding and Deadhanging page