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Thimbleby Crag

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 93

Map Ref:  SE460949

Altitude: 270m

Aspect: North

Approach: 20 minutes    

 


Thimbleby Crag is hidden up on a plateau in the middle of the woods above Over Silton village. The crag is soft sandstone & similar to Hanging Stone further west. It is north facing & shrouded by trees but does get the evening sun & the main wall will dry out after a few days of good weather although it can sweat in hot windless conditions. Avoid just after wet weather as holds do break if damp. There are trees above the crag to set up belays & before doing any of the routes it is advisable to abseil & have a quick brush of the holds. There are several good pockets spread out on each route for protection if needed although some of the harder climbing may need to be done to get to them. Several smaller edges are spread around offering some bouldering but offer mostly inferior rock.

Either park in Over Silton village or a little further up at a quarry. Follow the main forestry track that goes north east for about a mile to a crossroads at the top. From here take a main track down which is the third one on the left. After about 100m there is a small path on the left which leads to a large rock & popular viewpoint. Take the overgrown path that runs through the trees on the right & after 50m the crag is down on your left.
 




MAIN CRAG
 

The Climbs
The climbs start on the left at an overhanging corner crack.

Dark Matter Crack   6m   HS 4b

Climb up the corner crack with some good laybacking.
Steven Phelps 28/08/12

10m right is the main slab

Meteor Shower   7m   E2 6b   **

Start at a thin break and sidepull. Climb straight up with good moves between nice holds to a point where there is a multitude of good pockets, finish direct.
Lee Robinson 11/08/12

Shotgun   7m   VS 5b   *

Mantle the ledge to gain the letterbox, from here move left to join the last route, finish up this.
Steven Phelps 27/07/12

White Star Line   7m    E1 5c   **

Climb to the ledge then move right to a good hold, from here move past a crimp to the next ledge. Using another small crimp reach for a good right hand hold then the hole out left, finish direct.
Steven Phelps 28/05/12

Big Bang   HVS 5b   5m

Climb the right arÍte on it's left side using pockets.
Lee Robinson 11/08/12