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Thimbleby Crag

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 93

Map Ref:  SE460949

Altitude: 270m

Aspect: North

Approach: 20 minutes    

 


Thimbleby Crag is hidden up on a plateau in the middle of the woods above Over Silton village. The crag is soft sandstone & similar to Hanging Stone further west. It is north facing & shrouded by trees but does get the evening sun & the main wall will dry out after a few days of good weather although it can sweat in hot windless conditions. Avoid just after wet weather as holds do break if damp. There are trees above the crag to set up belays & before doing any of the routes it is advisable to abseil & have a quick brush of the holds. There are several good pockets spread out on each route for protection if needed although some of the harder climbing may need to be done to get to them. Several smaller edges are spread around offering some bouldering but offer mostly inferior rock.

Either park in Over Silton village or a little further up at a quarry. Follow the main forestry track that goes north east for about a mile to a crossroads at the top. From here take a main track down which is the third one on the left. After about 100m there is a small path on the left which leads to a large rock & popular viewpoint. Take the overgrown path that runs through the trees on the right & after 50m the crag is down on your left.

 

The Climbs

About 50m east of the main crag are the first bits of rock which seem to stay rather green and holds have a habit of collecting pine needles and growing moss. Most of the problems are highball in nature.
 


Sidewinder Slab

1. Under a Vest   4+
Climb the left edge/arÍte of Sidewinder Slab.
Lee Robinson 27/09/2015

2. Sidewinder Slab   5
Gain the hip height ledge. Move left and climb up the slab passing several breaks.
Steven Phelps 25/07/2012

3. Truth and Slander   4+
The arÍte mostly on its right side.
Lee Robinson 27/09/2015

4. Variation Wall   5
Up the wall right of the arÍte using a good pocket.
James Rennardson 27/09/2015

5. Star Dust   5+
From a sit start, pull up to a pocket and mantel.
Lee Robinson 27/09/2015
 


Groove Buttress

6. True Bromance   6b   *
Climb up to and into the highball groove in the slab. Unfortunately its often mossy.
James Rennardson 27/09/2015

7. Tangle Foot   6b
From a sit start, climb the right side of the arÍte from low down.
Steven Phelps 27/09/2015

 

Sand Corner
The first problems of the main area are on the walls to the left of the main crag. Again you may need a brush if you would like to try them but on closer inspection there are some good problems despite the quality of the rock.

1. Left ArÍte   5
The short left arÍte from a sit start. There may be some loose rock to finish.
James Rennardson 11/08/2015

2. Sandside   5
Climb the right side of the narrow wall on good edges from sitting.
Steven Phelps 13/05/2012

3. Fazer   5+
The right side of the high arÍte.
Lee Robinson 11/08/2015

4. Light Saber   6a
Climb the wall without the arÍte. Another highball exercise. May need brushing at the top.
James Rennardson 11/08/2015

5. Andromeda   6b
The left arÍte of the crack with a bold step onto a ledge about mid height.
Lee Robinson 11/08/2015

6. Entrail   6a
The wall to the right of the deep crack. Finish using the tree.
Lee Robinson 11/08/2015


 




MAIN CRAG
The climbs start on the left at an overhanging corner crack.

 

7. Dark Matter Crack   7m   VS 4c
Climb up the corner crack with some good laybacking.
Steven Phelps 28/08/12


10m right is the main slab


8. Meteor Shower   7m   E2 6b **
Start at a thin break and sidepull. Make a long span to good holds before a delicate move using a crimpy sidepull to reach some good pockets. Keep off the ledge of Shotgun to the right. Finish direct past another sidepull.
Lee Robinson 11/08/12   It is worth noting that a preplaced sling was used to top out on both know ascents.

Shotgun   7m   VS 5b   *

Mantle the ledge to gain the letterbox, from here move left to join the last route, finish up this.
Steven Phelps 27/07/12

White Star Line   7m    E1 5c   **

Climb to the ledge then move right to a good hold, from here move past a crimp to the next ledge. Using another small crimp reach for a good right hand hold then the hole out left, finish direct.
Steven Phelps 28/05/12

Big Bang   HVS 5b   5m

Climb the right arÍte on it's left side using pockets.
Lee Robinson 11/08/12