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Stoney Wicks

 

OS Sheet: 93

Map Reference: NZ528003

Aspect: South East

Altitude: 310m

Approach: 20 minutes

Mini Guide: Stoney Wicks Mini Guide (PDF)

 

 

History

The first recorded activity is not clear. Steve Ramsden climbed a couple of boulder problems in 2009.

 

Situation and Character

This small outcrop is 200m east of the Virgin Buttress, Barkers Crags, Scugdale. The height is small, up to 5m but this compact stretch of rock gives numerous boulder problems on a harder and rougher rock than the rest of Scugdale.

 

Access and Approaches

The best approach is by following the edge east above Barkers Crag, Scugdale.

 

Note: Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a CROW restriction for all dogs to be kept on a lead.

 

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

Introductory Wall                                                                                     Photo: Steve Crowe

 

1. Introductory M

Layback up the the LH alcove.

 

2. Layback Slab S *

Climb the slab finishing to the right. Good.

Soloing Layback Slab                           Photo: Karin Magog

 

The next three climbs are very close to each other!

 

3. Crackers VD

4. Loopy VD

5. Loony VD

 

Y Crack Wall                                                                                               Photo: Steve Crowe

 

6. Toper's Trouble VD

The left edge of the slab.

 

7. Pick Pocket S

Climb the middle of the slab on small but positive pockets.

 

8. Y-Crack VD *

Classic!

Soloing Y Crack                                                                                         Photo: Karin Magog

 

 

9. Sobersides HVD

The wall just right of Y-Crack.

 

 

Free and Easy Buttress and beyond                                               Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 

10. Free and Easy M

Climb the arÍte.

Soloing Free and Easy                                                                          Photo: Karin Magog

 

 

11. Nondescript VD

Soloing Nonedescript                                                                           Photo: Karin Magog

 

 

12. Lambda D

The slanting crack.

 

13. Tombstone D

Climb the left hand side.

 

14. Chagrin Left Font 6b+

SS on the lowest shelf. Climb the left arÍte of the Sepulchre buttress with a tricky deadpoint move to the mid-height break.

Steve Ramsden 10th October 2009

 

15. Sepulchre HVD

Climb the left arÍte.

 

16. Chagrin Right Font 6b+

SS on the lowest shelf. The right arÍte of the Sepulchre buttress.

Steve Ramsden 10th October 2009

 

Hanging Chimney Area                                                                        Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 

17. Hanging Chimney VD

Climb the (boot) wide crack.

 

Waltzing Matilda and Solitary                                                            Photo: Steve Crowe

 

18. Waltzing Matilda M

Zig zag up the slabby wall.

 

19. Solitary D

Climb the buttress a few metres right of Waltzing Matilda.

 

The last four climbs are a short walk right on the Far Right Buttress.

 

Far Right Buttress                                                                                 Photo: Steve Crowe

 

20. Corner Climb VD

 

21. Twisting Crack M

 

22. Flake Slab D

Follow the flake to the top.

 

23. Pocket Wall D

Good pockets up the slab to the right of the flake.

 

 

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