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Snotterdale

OS  Sheet 93      

Map Reference    513013

Aspect                   South

Altitude                 270m

Approach Time      20 minutes

 

Situation and Character

So called because Ďitís not a daleí. The crags lie in Snotterdale Plantation and are not easy to find.

 

History

Members of the C.M.C. discovered the right hand crag, but nothing was recorded. It was rediscovered by Steve Brown, Dave Paul and friends in the 198's. There was no further recorded activity until Tony and Linda Marr recorded Spiderís Eliminate ArÍte Finish and Desperandum Scoop Finish in July 1986

 

Access and Approaches

The best approach is to go up Scugdale, as for Scot Crags, but leave the road at Raikes Farm. Pass to the right of the farm and follow a good track past Raikes Wood to Snotterdale Plantation.

  

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

  

Castle Buttress

 

 1. Spiderís Eliminate   10m   HVS 4c  *

The well defined crack on the left hand side of the buttress. Climb the overhang and crack above by either bold lay backing or very awkward jamming.

 

2. Spiderís Web   10m   HVS 5a

Start at Spiderís Eliminate; move out left to a small ledge, then up passing another ledge to gain a short corner and thus the top.

 

3. Spiderís Eliminate ArÍte Finish   12m   E1 5b

Climb the layback crack to the ledge. Move out right and climb the arÍte.

Tony & Linda Marr July 1986

 

The arete left of Desperandum is unclimbed and unprotected. Check it out!
 

4. Desperandum   10m   E2 5c   *

A series of cracks left of No. 2 route are climbed with great difficulty but excellent protection. A superb route.

 

5. Desperandum Scoop Finish   12m   E2 6a

Climb the steep fingery cracks of DESPERANDUM until it is possible to step left into a very steep scoop. Exit the scoop via the wall on the left. Strenuous.            

Tony & Linda Marr July 1986

 

6. No. 2 Route   12m   MS

A prominent chimney divides the buttress into two parts. Climb the cracks just left of the chimney. Finish up the bulging slab on the left.

 

7. C.R. Crack   12m   VD

The chimney is climbed to a ledge. Finish up the right-hand crack.

 

8. Slings   10m   HVS 5b

The arÍte 5m to the right of C.R. Crack is climbed on the right-hand side.  Move round the arÍte and up to the top. Poorly protected

 

9. Fissure   10m   D

Start as for Slings, move right up the diagonally sloping crack to the holly. Finish up the crack on the left.

 

 

SNOTTERDALE RIGHT HAND    NZ 513014

Same approach as for the Snotterdale Crag. Once above these rocks walk ľ mile due east and descend through some trees over the remnants of a wall to the East end of the crag.

 

Upper Tier

The routes are described from right to left.

 

Owl Buttress

The small wedge shaped buttress at the right end.

 

10. David & Goliath   5m   HS 4a

The wall on well brushed slots.

 

11. Myth   5m   MVS 4b

The crack to the right of Soothsayer.

 

12. Soothsayer   7m   E1 5b

The wall on the left of the buttress is climbed direct.

 

Main Wall

 

13. Keep Crack   5m   S

Start 7m left of Soothsayer. Climb the crack starting off a grassy ledge at mid-height.

 

14. Sixth Sense   7m   E3 6a

The wall on the left of Keep Crack climbed via three small pockets.

 

15. Saxon   7m   E1 5b

The crack in the middle of the wall with a large tree growing out of the top.

 

16. Somnium   12m   E3 6a

The faint groove line above the overhang is gained via a series of undercuts over the roof then up the groove. Finish the wall direct.

 

17. V. Groove Climb   7m   VD

The prominent V groove 50m left of Saxon. Climb the groove left of the square roof. Scramble to finish.

 

Lower Tier

 

18. The Wall   7m   E1 5c

The wall to the right of the arÍte.

 

19. Excalibur   8m   MVS 4b

The impressive arÍte to the left of the Wall.

 

20. Brick   7m   VS 4c

The Wall and groove 3m right of The Wall.

 

21. Mid Height   5m   VS 5a

The crack on the end of the buttress is climbed direct.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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