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Slacks Wood

 

OS Map Reference: NZ 589125
Altitude: 280m
Aspect: South West
Approach: 20 minutes

Situation and Character
These boulders are located on the hillside south of Roseberry Topping just west of Little Roseberry. The venue holds some good problems with some rough hard sandstone to the north and a more iron rich sandstone to the south. It would seem that climbing or abseiling may have taken place some years ago as there is a metal stake on the top of The Fort Block, however nothing was recorded
until 2014 when Lee Robinson and James Rennardson made an evening visit during late summer and climbed most of the problems.

Access and approaches
The best way to reach the boulders is by using the same parking as for Captain Coook's Crag at Gribdale car park south of Great Ayton. From there, take the steep path heading north following the edge of the moor on The Cleveland Way for about 15 minutes. The southern area is in a large ravine at a sharp left bend in the path. The northern area is a recommended starting point and is best approached following the top path for a further 5 minutes until a gate is reached at the viewpoint. Go through the gate where the first boulders are back along the hillside to the south. Can also be approached from Hutton Village in Guisborough and following forest tracks which takes about 30 minutes.

All problems are listed from left to right and most are from sit starts unless specified.

 

The Slab


The Slab © Steven Phelps

1. Generation X 4+
The left side of the arÍte using the deep crack from standing.

2. Slacker 6c *
The right side of the arÍte with a difficult move to get established on the arÍte. From standing is 5.

3. Teenage Kicks 6c+ **
Start just right of the arÍte. Make confusing moves to get established in the porthole. Finish direct. From standing is 5.

4. Loser 6a+ **
The centre of the slab on good holds. From standing is 3.

5. I've Still Got It! 6b *
Start from the overhanging wall. Climb the arÍte leftwards to finish up the slabby side. From standing is 3.

6. Selfie 6c **
Start at the overhanging wall again. Climb the steep right side of the arÍte, following as it eases onto slab to finish.

7. Teenage Dirtbag 6b+ *
Climb the overhanging wall making a difficult move using vertical slots to reach the lip. Mantel direct without using the arÍte or crack utilising pockets on the slab.
 

Teenage Dirtbag 6b+ © Steven Phelps


8. Likely Lads 6a+
Start with hands either side of the crack. Gain the lip and traverse leftwards to finish as for Selfie.

9. Moorsainebleau 6a+
Traverse the slab from the standing start of Slacker about mid height. Finish up I've Still Got It!.


About 30m south are the next problems.


Hanging ArÍte

Hanging ArÍte © Steven Phelps


1. Hanging Traverse 4+ *
Follow the pocketed break rightwards to finish up the left side of the arÍte.

2. Generation Z 4+ *
From the break, climb the left arÍte.

3. Not Going Out 4+
From the break, climb just right of the arÍte.

4. Hermit 3+
From the break, climb direct past a pocket.

5. Hanging ArÍte Left Side 5
Start round the front on a low ledge. Climb out leftwards to finish up the left side of the arÍte.

6. Hanging ArÍte Right Side 5+ *
Start from the low ledge again. Climb the arÍte on its right side.

7. Gap Year 5+ *
From the ledge again and without using the adjacent block, gain the next ledge and climb just right of the arÍte on crimp edges.

8. SMS 4+
The only problem from a standing start here. Climb the right side to a mantel finish.


The next area is about 300m to the south in a large ravine. It is best approached by following the wall along the top. The first problems described are on an undercut slab just to the left of the roof up on the edge and have difficult sit starts with very little for the feet.


The Edge

The Edge © Steven Phelps


1. City Lights 6a+
Start from a flat edge on the slab. Make a stiff pull to a flake hold. Finish leftwards.

2. Symbiosis 6a+
Make the first few moves of the last problem. Once at the flake finish rightwards past the deep pocket.

3. Edge of Nowhere 6a+
Start at a good edge before it gets boggy. Climb leftwards to finish up the right edge of the slab.

4. The Roof Crack 6b **
Start from standing at the back of the roof. Follow the roof crack to a delicate rockover finish.

5. The Prow 5+ **
Start from standing under the prow about 5m to the right. Reach out and make good moves up its right side to a high finish.


There are probably more problems but the rest of the edge has loose rock and dirty finishes so is not included.


The Fort

The Fort © Steven Phelps


1. Hold the Fort   5
The centre of the wall on ledges and pockets.

2. Fort Knox   6c *
Using poor footholds, hang a right hand crimp and a left hand micro pocket to reach ledges in the groove.

3. Fort ArÍte   6b+ *
Use the same crimp as the last problem to start but with your left hand and your right hand on the arÍte. Pull onto the wall and make a difficult leap for a pocket before rejoining the arÍte to finish.

4. Fort ArÍte Back Side   4+
The back side of the arÍte using pockets.

5. Problem Five   4
The left side of the big block up some pockets from standing.

6. Problem Six   2
Climb up the weakness on blocky holds from standing.

7. Problem Seven   3+
The vague rib finishing leftwards from standing.

8. Problem Eight   4+
The weakness on the right side of the wall starting up a flake from standing. Finish on good edges.

 

Leaning Wall, The Fort © Steven Phelps



More problems have been done to the right but are not included as they have loose rock and there is another buttress over to the south which has some short problems on good rock but again are not included.