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Silton

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 99             

Map Reference: SE448940   

Aspect: West

Altitude: 170m

Approach time: 5 minutes

 

Situation and Character 

A quiet wooded crag close to but not disturbed by the A19. A number of buttresses can be seen on the left of the road approaching Over Silton from the A19.

 

History

Forked Oak Chimney, Lost Buttress, Knees up, Pieman, Simple, Simon Arete, Elderberry Chimney, Birds Nest, Branch, Silton Stairs, Spiny Norman, Robinson, all were done early 1974 by A Lawton, T Harton, D Robinson, S Harwood, P Cresswell, R Rowlands, P Brayshaw, A Andrews, and the Cleveland S&R Team. Ian Dunn, Claudie Dunn Spring added Delhi Belly in 1986. Steve Crowe was disturbed an owl and a kestrel while soloing in April 1996 before producing Blue Stilton.

 

Access and Approaches

The best approach is to take the forestry road from the north of Over Silton village. A path leads up to a forestry sign “Forestry Commission, Cleveland Forest, Silton, No Vehicles” which is adjacent to a small area of quarried rock. Take a path on the left just before this. Follow the path until it reaches a forestry track. 20m along the track turn left and follow a fence, which leads to the edge of the escarpment. Turn left again and the main buttress is a further 100m diagonally downwards. At the left end of the buttress is a fallen oak tree.

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right. The first route is in a dangerous condition since the demise of the oak tree

 

1. Forked Oak Chimney   12m   VD

Follow the chimney immediately behind the fallen tree. Loose.

1974

 

2. Lost Buttress    12m   S

Start 2m right of the last route at the foot of the buttress. Climb up to a notch and traverse diagonally left to the top.

1974

 

3. Knees Up   13m   S

Just right of Lost Buttress is a gully. Start on the left wall moving across the gully to the right wall and then direct to the top.

1974

 

4. Blue Stilton   12m   VS 4c/5a      

Tackle the hanging arête.

Steve Crowe solo 12th April 1996

 

5. Pieman   12m   VD

Climb the chimney direct, 2m right of Knees Up, and around a corner.

1974

 

To the right of Pieman is an impressive undercut wall at its right hand end.

 

6. Simple   13m   HS 4b

Start at the left end of the wall and climb straight up to a prominent crack that is behind an overhanging tree branch Climb this to the top.

1974

 

7. Simon Arête   13m   S

Start just right of Simple. Climb the wall on weathered holds. . At about two thirds height traverse 2m  right on to the arête and then climb straight up. A fine route but poor protection.

1974

 

8. Delhi Belly   13m   HVS 5b   *

The overhanging and prominent arête to the right of Simon.

Ian Dunn, Claudie Dunn Spring 1986

 

9. Elderberry Chimney   13m   D

Start to the left of the foot of the left-hand branch. Climb into the chimney then direct to the top.

1974

 

10. Birds Nest   13m   VD

Start just right of the chimney base. Climb the right-hand branch using the right wall.

1974

 

7m right of the last route is a rather loose slab. Above is an oak with three trunks on the top of the crag.

 

11. Branch   13m   HVD

On the left of the slab is a chimney. Climb this, bypassing the loose central section on the right. Finish up the awkward chimney to the left of the oak with three trunks at the top of the crag.

1974

 

12. Silton Stairs   10m   D

Start 1m right of the last route. Climb up steps on the slab to the top.

Avoid the loose middle section on the right.

1974

 

Across a wide grassy gully is another buttress with a large cave.

 

13. Spiney Norman   10m   D

Start at the stone embedded in the ground at the foot of the buttress to the left of the cave. Climb on weathered holds until the overhanging wall above stops progress. Traverse left to finish.

1974

 

14. Tony’s First One   10m   HVS 5a

The roof above the cave by Spiney Norman.
Chris Shorter, Tony Holdsworth 1992    Tony's first ever first ascent.

 

35m right of the main area are broken buttresses on which Robinson and a number of routes have been climbed.

 

Hanging Stone is well hidden in the woods near Silton at NGR 451944.  There are three recorded routes.

 

Rhubarb   7m   S

On the south facing wall where J77 is engraved on the rock, climb directly up the wall passing two small overhanging blocks.

Mark Lawton June 1988

 

Custard   7m   S

Climb the wall 1m right of Rhubarb to finish through a vee notch.

Mark Lawton June 1988

 

Cream   8m   VS 5a

On the west facing wall. from beneath the overhang pull into a small recess and continue straight to the top.

Mark Lawton June 1988

 

 

Graded List

 

HVS

Delhi Belly 5b *

 

VS

Blue Stilton 4c/5a

 

S

Lost Buttress

Knees Up

Simon

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

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