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Shaw Crag

 

Map Reference: SE 630971
Aspect: West
Altitude: 270m
Approach: 5 minutes

Situation and Character
Shaw Crag is situated in the secluded valley of Bransdale. The rock is clean solid sandstone on the whole with a few friable intrusions and the routes reach a height of six metres. Some of the climbing involves negotiating a large undercut above a steep landing. There are more smaller bits of rock around but impact has been kept to a minimum with routes on the cleanest buttress only. There was a stake in place directly above for cleaning and belaying but it is not there at present.

Access and Approaches
Take the main road entering Bransdale on it's east side by driving through the village of Fadmoor or by taking the last right turning out of the village of Gillamoor as you drive west, it's just after the school. Follow this road for about 6 miles to a lay-by on your left opposite a public bridleway at SE 629966, it's at a bend in the road sign as you drop down into the valley. Take the bridleway up onto the moor for about 100m, then break off along the edge on sheep tracks for 5 minutes where the crag is inconspicuous down on your left in line with a stone wall coming up between the farms below. On open access land but strictly no dogs.


Bransdale is quite remote but Shaw Crag is practically roadside
© Steven Phelps

 

1. Dominion  3m  S
Use the jammed block to follow the short arÍte.
Steven Phelps 30/11/13

2. Space Invaders   4m   HS 4b
Follow the shallow corner flake to finish leftwards as for the arÍte.
Steven Phelps 30/11/13
 

3. Share of Bitterness   6m   7a   *   (E2 6b)
Climb the hanging groove to some good holds. Finish steeply past the rounded ledge above.
Steven Phelps 14/07/2017 "I managed it as a highball boulder problem after quite a few goes, so perhaps worth E2."

Share of Bitterness 7a (E2 6b)  © Steven Phelps


4. Embers Of Burnt Bridges   6m   E1 5b *
Step off the embedded boulder and follow the blunt arÍte on it's right at first, then swing round to pockets on the front face to a bold finish.
Steven Phelps 24/03/2014 "I ended up soloing this after an ascent above a stack of mats and it didn't end up being as worrying as I thought it would be, although it still required a positive approach"
Steven Phelps soloing Embers of Burnt Bridges E1 5b

Soloing Embers of Burnt Bridges E1 5b © Steven Phelps


5. Past Times   5m   VS 5a
Step off the boulder again and climb the wall direct past an iron nodule and thin edges.
Martin Whitton 30/11/13

6. Last Summer   5m   VS 5a
Step off the boulder once more. Move up the blunt flake and faint crack line avoiding the adjacent wall.
Steven Phelps 30/11/13