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Scot Crag

The most popular crag in Scugdale and unfortunately it shows. Please take care to follow the new path following the wall. Thanks must go to the Cleveland Mountaineering Club for there efforts to maintain access (and the new path) to the crag. 

 

OS Sheet: 94

Map Reference: NZ516004

Altitude: 320m

Aspect: South Facing          

Approach: 5 minutes

Mini Guide: Scots Crags Mini Guide (PDF)

 

 

Situation and Character 

This area must surely rank as the most popular venue in this guide. It has all the right ingredients, with the crags being only five minutes’ walk from the road, south-facing and of good quality sandstone. With more than 250 climbs to choose from there is something here for everyone. The rocks’ sunny aspect and generally quick-drying nature makes this an ideal all year venue.

Karin Magog soloing Eve (HVS 5a) Scot Crag, Scugdale

 

Safety Note

These climbs receive more traffic (usually solo) than any other crag in Cleveland, and although the sandstone is good quality, holds do tire and break. Over the last decade there has been a steep rise in incidents and serious injuries. Take Extra Care!

 

History

The 1956 guide stated “the rocks have been climbed on since the 1930s and are probably worked out”. How wrong they were. In fact the number of climbs has more than doubled since that statement was made. Despite the crag’s popularity it has proved extremely difficult to correlate the history and attribute first ascents as memories have faded and few records exist. However, there is little doubt that the first climbers to visit the crag were Arthur Barker and his brother during the early 1930s. Although the Barker brothers made a few visits at this time it appears that they were not inspired by the compact nature of the climbs. They chose instead to practice on the larger crags in Cleveland, considering that to be proper training for climbing in The Lakes and Scotland. Sadly, details of the Barkers’ early exploits remain sketchy, with the exception of one climb, Barker’s Chimney. Indeed, it was left to Arthur Evans in 1939 to produce most of the recorded climbs including, Razor Rib, Drunken Buttress, Parson’s Nose, Whippet Wall, Nook and Cranny, and Main Mast Crack. Also active at this time was the very capable Richard Wharldall who reputedly climbed much of what else was recorded up to 1956. As there is no specific record of his achievements or evidence to the contrary, it is probably fair to credit all the routes from 1939 to 1956 as the cumulative efforts of Evans and Wharldall. J Elliot and W Wrigglesworth were very productive during 1959 with impressive ascents of Scugdale Buttress, Holly Tree Hover and The Pulpit, although a sling was used for aid on the last route. In the same year, the short but difficult problems of Suds and Tension were added by Johnny Carter. The 1960s began with Eric Penman climbing the unrelenting Deviator. The popular Pinger’s and its Left-hand Variant were added a few years later by Fred Lightfoot and John Chambers respectively, but little of further importance was climbed during this period. Tony Marr solved the traverse of Drunken Buttress in 1971, and a few weeks later Ron Lake with Alan Dewison climbed the difficult Tiber Wall. The major route of the 1970s was the modern test piece of The Shelf, climbed by Alan Taylor in 1977. The following year Tony McLean discovered another bold problem, Stewker. The buttress of Eve provided three good but serious climbs during the 1980s beginning with Ian Carr making a bold solo of the impressive Serpent. This was followed by Paul Smith added the equally difficult Hob Nobs, and later the same year Tony Marr traversed the buttress producing Megabite. However, on a cold October day in 1988 Paul Smith climbed the most significant route of that period and the area’s first 7a, Humbug. The 1990s were incredibly quiet with little of note being climbed. Finally during work for this guide in 2002, Tony Marr found and filled a few small gaps, the most significant find being The Keel. No doubt the next generation will seek out further delights to tease and tantalise.

 

Access and Approaches

From the A19 and places east, take the A172 to Swainby. Drive through Swainby until just outside the village where a left fork leads through a ford to Huthwaite Green and into Scugdale. The crag lies 4.5km beyond Swainby at the end of a narrow road. Drive with extreme caution as many accidents have involved climbers. Park with consideration in the small lay-by below the crag just before Scugdale Hall Nursery.

 

From the lay-by cross the stile and follow the diverted path, keeping right of the wall, directly uphill. The path joins the right-hand end of Scot Crags at Curtain Slab. Barker’s Crags are situated to the right of the wire fence and are accessed by the stile above Curtain Slab.

 

Note: Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a CROW restriction for all dogs to be kept on a lead.

 

 

Scot Crags

The routes are described from left to right.

 

Rake’s Buttress

The first buttress described lies at the extreme left end of the rocks and is called…

 

1. Auntie’s   5m   VS 5a

Start at the left side of the buttress at the foot of a short chimney. Step up right and climb the left edge of the wall forming Rake’s Buttress. Bridging onto the boulder to the left is cheating.

1970. The climb has become slightly harder due to a snapped flake

                                               

2. Rake’s Progress   8m   D

Start as for Auntie’s. Step up and follow the sloping ledge leading to the right edge. Finish up the fluted wall on the arête.

Pre 1956

                                               

3. Uncle’s   7m   VS 4c   *

Begin just left of the toe of the buttress. Climb a short crack then up the centre of the upper wall using three small pockets.

Pre 1960

                               

4. Mother's Little Helper   6m   S     

Start as for Uncle’s then follow the ramp leading up the arête just right of the three pockets of Uncle's.

1980s

 

5. Straight and Narrow   7m   D

From the toe of the buttress, move up and right to finish up the fluted wall.

Pre 1956

 

6. Moderator   7m   M

Start beneath the large roof. Climb the left wall to gain a good ledge, exit up the fluted wall as for Straight and Narrow. A slightly harder start can be made over the small nose to the left at D.

Pre 1960

 

7. Direct Variation   4m   HVS 5b

Climb straight over the centre of the large roof without using the adjacent blocks. An interesting problem.

Gordon Hanson 1960

 

8. Easy Stages   8m   M

The overhang is passed on its right-hand side, then cross back left to finish up the fluted wall.

Pre 1956

 

Across the gully to the right is a small buttress with a prominent nose...

 

Oriel Wall

Oriel Wall

 

9. Left Side   3m   S

Climb the overhanging wall to finish just to the left of the protruding nose. The shallow groove just to the left is also S.

1960s

 

10. The Mounting Block   3m   HD

Climb the concave wall to the right of the obvious protruding nose.     

Pre 1956

 

11. The Nutcrackers   3m   D

Start 5m right of Mounting Block. Climb the wide crack. Surprisingly awkward. The centre of the undercut wall to the left is fun and HVD.

Pre 1956

 

12. Gentle Slab   4m   Easy

Ascend the slab and hanging corner, 3m to the right of the wide crack.

Pre 1956

 

13. Spiral Stairs   3m   VD

Climb the right-hand side of the undercut arête via a useful pocket. Alternatively, move around the left side of the arête then step right onto the lip of the overhang and finish on the nose at D.

Pre 1956

 

Just right is...

 

The Parson’s Nose Buttress

 

14. Parson’s Chimney   3m   M

The short cleft at the extreme left side of the buttress.

Pre 1956

 

15. Hand Jive   5m   VS 5b

Climb the wall immediately right of the last route on small holds to a difficult finish. The embedded block and the left edge are not to be used.

Tony Marr 1972

 

16. Jivers Wall   5m   VS 4c

The wall just right of centre on small holds. A long reach proves very useful.

Pre 1956

 

17. Bop Route   5m   MS   *

This is the arête just right of Jivers Wall. Begin on the right and follow a thin crack over the overlap and up the small corner.

Pre 1956

 

18. Bopped   5m   VS 5a

Start just right of the last route. Climb straight over the overlap to escape through the notch of Zoot Route.

Tony Marr 1978

 

19. Zoot Route   4m   VD   **

Takes the leaning wall just left of the Parson’s Nose. A little route with a big feel about it.

Arthur Evans Pre 1956

 

The next climb is a short but hard problem.

 

20. The Nose    3m   HVS 5b

Climb the prominent overhang of The Parson’s Nose on its right side.

Johnny Adams 1965

 

Short walls across the gully offer easy problems but the next main buttress lies 28m further to the right, and is identified by two cracks forming the letter ‘A’. This is...

 

Scot Buttress

 

21. The Neb   4m   HVS 5b

This short problem is situated at the back of the alcove to the left of the main buttress. Start just left of the undercut nose and climb to the break. Step right then straight over the top bulge. Using the gully walls reduces the grade to VD.

Tony Marr 6th August 1989

 

The slabby buttress just to the left of The Neb can be ascended at M.

               

22. Hadrian’s Wall   5m   S/HS 4b   *

This wall is ascended by two main routes.

S              Climb the left edge of the wall to finish up a short crack.

HS 4b      Start at a short diagonal crack then climb directly up the centre of the wall on small holds.         

Other variations have been climbed.

Pre 1956

 

23. Corner Direct   6m   S/HS 4b   *

The steep arête can be climbed on either side.

S              Start at the foot of the arête and climb directly up the left side.

HS 4b      On the right side, climb into the niche, the “Nook” and finish up the right edge of the arête.

Pre 1956

 

24. Nook and Cranny   8m   MS   *

Climb the left side of the arête into the “Nook”, traverse right to the flake “Cranny” and ascend this to the top.

Arthur Evans. Pre 1956

 

25. Direct Start   7m   HS 4b *

Start below the final flake crack of the normal route. Pull over the bulge and finish up the crack.

Early 1960s

 

26. Highland Fling   7m   E1 5b

Climb straight up the rounded arête between the last route and Bawbee Crack to finish up a shallow vertical fault. Any use of the flake crack is cheating. Bold.

Pre 1956. This climb masqueraded as VS for many years. 

 

The next two routes form the letter ‘A’.

 

27. Bawbee Crack   5m   HD

Step off the block and climb the awkward crack.

Pre 1956

 

28. Blaeberry Crack   5m   D

The slanting crack is followed to a junction with Bawbee Crack for the finish.

Pre 1956

 

An entertaining eliminate up the wall between the two cracks is 4c.

 

29. Blaeberry Buttress Direct   5m   HS 4b

Climb the wall just right of Blaeberry Crack, via a shallow vertical crack.

1962

 

30. Blaeberry Buttress   7m   M   **

Start just right of the arête. Step up then traverse up leftwards using a sloping shelf for the hands to finish at the top of Blaeberry Crack. A higher variation climbs the arête to the top then traverses left into Blaeberry Crack at HD.

Pre 1956

 

There are several short problems (Diff to 4b) on the small buttress across the gully. The arête and overhanging wall on the left is 4a, and the thin hanging corner crack 4b, are particularly enjoyable.

 

Further right is…

 

Romulus and Remus Buttress

 

31. Wolf Wall   5m   S

Climb the thin crack and wall 1m right of the corner. (The short corner is a poor climb at D).

Pre 1956

 

32. Wolf Whistle   6m   HS 4b   *

Ascend the centre of the wall on small holds.

Mid. 1960s

 

33. Woodpecker Wall   7m   S   *

Start at the toe of the buttress. Move up the wall following a line of well-defined pockets on the upper slab.

Pre 1956

 

34. Romulus   7m   HS 4b

Climbs the awkward blunt arête just left of the chimney.

Pre 1956

 

35. Tiber Chimney   7m   M

Ascend the wide chimney between Romulus and Remus. Caution: A rock fall during the winter of 2000 has left some suspect blocks that still need treating carefully.

Pre 1956

 

Two short problems start inside Tiber Chimney.

 

36. Decline & Fall   9m   VS 4b

Climb the chimney for 4m, then using both walls traverse rightwards above the roof to finish up the right side of the slab.

Ken Jackson 1973

 

37. Tiber Wall   6m   E1 5c

Start from the base of the chimney. Surmount the overhang on the right wall at its centre then continue direct. Bridging is not allowed.

Ron Lake, Alan Dewison 1971

 

38. Remus   8m   VS 4c/5a

Start at the toe of the buttress. Sloping holds lead to the large ledge at half height. There are three variation finishes.

4c Either, finish straight up the centre of the buttress with a long reach to finish, or slightly easier, climb the left-hand arête if you can find the hidden holds!

5a Climb the hanging Right-hand Arête, starting in a shallow groove.

4c. Variants. Pre 1956

Right-hand Arête.  Tony Marr 1st June 1975

                

The Prow

 

The next four routes begin from the raised platform.

 

39. Halyards   5m   D

Straight up the left-hand arête.
Pre 1956

 

40. Little by Little   5m   VD   *

The groove just to the right of Halyards.
Pre 1956

 

40a. Eliminate Wall   5m   HVS 5a
Climb the wall between 'Little by Little' and 'Main Mast Crack' via a steepening flake, layback and reach up to the break avoiding the right arête. Another reach should lead to the top.
This eliminate problem dates back to the sixties and sees many claims!

               

41. Main Mast Crack   5m   S   *

The splendid corner crack with excellent views from the crow’s nest.

Arthur Evans Pre 1956

               

42. Stewker                                          7m          E1 5c **

The wall just to the right of Main Mast crack provides a popular problem with a very unpopular landing! Start up the middle of the wall, and from a good side pull reach the obvious pocket on the left, then head for the notch in the top of the wall.  

Tony McLean, Paul Ingham 1978.

 

 

43. Prowess   7m   E3 6b

Takes the wall to the right of Stewker using the right edge. Serious.

Tony Marr 11th November 1988. Top roped first then soloed.

 

44. The Prow   7m   E1 5a

Climb straight up the edge of the arête with increasing difficulty to a crux at the top.

Pre 1956

 

The Prow

 

45. Galley Chimney   5m   M

The wide chimney.

Pre 1956

 

46. The Heads   5m   HS

The right arête of Galley Chimney. Start from either side of the arête to finish up the left side on good holds. No bridging allowed.

1970s

 

47. The Bulkhead   5m   HS 4b   *

The overhanging crack to the right of the Galley Chimney.

Variation 4b. Climb the crack to half height, then reach right for a slanting flake and pull around the corner into a niche. Exit left up the scoop.

An easier variation [HS 1997] climbs the lower short crack directly into the niche on the corner.

Pre 1956

                .

48. The Keel   5m   HVS 5a

Start at a short crack to the right of The Bulkhead. Climb the crack and gain a slanting flake on the upper wall. Follow the flake to a difficult finish

Tony Marr 23rd May 2002

 

49. Plimsoll Line                  15m         4c

A low level traverse of the buttress from Little by Little to the variation finish of The Bulkhead, or visa versa.

Pre 1956.

 

The next small buttress lies higher up the slope, this is…

 

Adam

 

50. Jill’s Delight   4m   D

Climb the wall just left of the arête of Adam.

Pre 1956

 

51. Right Hand Side   3m   D

Unsurprisingly climbs the right-hand side of the arête.

Pre 1956

 

Just to the right is the fine tall buttress of...

 

Eve

 

52. Evens   4m   VS 4c   *

Start in the gully opposite Adam. Step into the obvious pocket then gain the shallow scoop above.

1960s

 

53. Curving Arête   5m   VS 4c

Follow the blunt arête just right of Evens. A thought-provoking problem.

1960s

 

54. Megabite   8m   E1 5c

A traverse of the buttress. Start in gully left of Curving Arête, cross Jack’s Delight and turn the awkward corner (feet in horizontal break at 2m level), continue across a delicate wall to finish in the corner right of Serpent. The climb can also be done in the opposite direction.

Tony Marr 29th October 1988

 

55. Jack’s Delight    7m   VS 4b *

Start at the toe of the buttress. Pull up and across leftwards, then up the centre of the wall. Bold.

Pre 1956

 

 

56. Eve   7m   HVS 5a*/ E2 5b*

The sharp arête can be climbed on either side. The left side is 5a, the right side is 5b. Both climbs are serious.

Left Side: Tony Marr, Andrew Webb 6th.April 1975

Right Side: Dave McKinney 1978

 

Eve

 

57. Hob Nobs   7m   E3 6a

Begin about 1m right of the arête and climb the delicate wall direct. Serious.

Paul Smith 1988 solo

 

58. Serpent   7m   E3 6a

Immediately right of Hob Nobs a crack slants rightwards. Gain the crack and follow it until it is possible to step left on small pockets and up to the top. Bold.

Ian Carr   Early 1980s solo

 

Below the Serpent is a bivouac cave formed by boulders, this can provide shelter from the traditional British summer. The bay above and behind the bivouac cave is known as…

 

Green Walls

 

59. Green Wall   3m   M

Climb the sculptured wall right of the holly tree.

Pre 1956

 

60. Archer’s Arête   3m   HS 4b

The arête provides a short problem. Pull straight up the edge keeping the right hand and foot on the right of the arête for the tick.

1990s

 

61. Archer’s Crack   3m   VD

Start in the corner just right of Green Wall. Bridge up the corner until holds can be used on the slab on the right.

Pre 1956. The climb was named after a broken flint arrowhead was found at the foot of the crack.

 

62. Clarence   4m   VD

Start 2m right of Archer’s Crack. Step onto the slab and climb it trending right.

Direct Start   VS 5b

Start under the overlap below and right of Clarence. Climb the wall without using the block on the right. The undercut arête just right is VS 4c.

Clarence: 1960

Direct: 1980

 

The next buttress has a prominent nose of rock.

 

The Pulpit

 

63. The Pulpit   5m   E1 5b   **

Climb the crack on the left-hand side until it is possible to hand traverse rightwards to the nose for difficult finish. A serious climb to solo, but it can be well protected for leading. The direct start to the nose is also 5b.

J Elliot, W Wrigglesworth. 1958. A threaded sling was used as a foot loop to surmount the overhang.

F.F.A. Attributed to Stew Wilson and Geoff Harper 1965. Both climbers led the climb free on the same day.

 

64. Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon   4m   HVS 5b

Start as for The Pulpit. Climb a short crack to the overhang, move right and pull straight over the roof on small holds.

Ian Dunn, Tony Marr both solo. Spring 1980.

 

65. The Choir   4m   VD

Climb the blunt arête just right of the main overhang, mainly on its right side.

Pre 1956.

 

Behind The Pulpit is a gully with a steep left wall. Several problems have been climbed here.

 

66. Lost Arête   5m   VS 4c

Climb the left-hand arête starting up a shallow groove and without using boulders in the gully.

Tony Marr 1972.

 

67. Anvil Chorus   5m   VS 5b   *

The arête can be climbed on its right side.

Tony Marr 1972.

 

68. Forgotten Wall   5m   VS 4c   *

Ascend the centre of the wall. Strenuous.

Tony Marr, Eric Marr 1971

 

69. Forgotten Arête   4m   VS 4c

Climb the right-hand arête without bridging.

1970s

 

70. Low Level Traverse                     5m          4b

Traverse from Lost Arête to Lost Chimney or visa versa, with hands in the first break.

1980s

 

 71. Lost Chimney   4m   M

Follow the chimney in the corner.

F.R.A.  Tony Marr April 2002

 

 72. Wall and Crack   4m   S

Climb the short wall just right of the chimney to finish up a steep and awkward crack. No bridging.

F.R.A.  Tony Marr April 2002

 

Drunken Buttress

This is the large leaning block with a slab on the left flank, and overhanging front and right-hand faces. It has several excellent problems.

 

73. Seamy Side   6m   D   *

Start up the blunt arête then finish via the left edge of the slab.

Arthur Evans. Pre 1956

 

74. Bottoms Up   6m   HS 4b   *

Climb the centre of the undercut slab just left of Hangover using all the holds. Several harder variations can be worked out.

Eric Marr 1962

 

75. Hangover   7m   VS 4c   *

Start at the lowest point of the slab, at the right-hand corner. Climb straight over the awkward bulge into a shallow groove to finish easily up the slab. Can be a very sobering problem.

Arthur Evans. Pre 1956. The original Drunken Buttress route.

 

76. Tippling Wall   7m   HVS 5a   **

The gently overhanging wall to the right of the slab can be climbed almost anywhere on small holds. The easiest sequence is 5a beginning at the right side of the wall and climbing straight up to finish.

Pre 1956

 

77. Tippling Arête   7m   HVS 5b

Climb straight up the leaning edge of the wall to a difficult finish over the final nose.

Paul Ingham 1978

 

Immediately around the corner is a bulging wall and further test pieces...

 

78. Humbug   6m   E4 7a

Begin 1m right of the arête. Levitate up the wall following a hairline crack and shallow pockets to gain a sloping hold. Finish directly over the final roof. Starting from the boulder is cheating.

Paul Smith 16th October 1988

 

79. The Shelf   5m   E2 5c   **

The wall has an obvious sloping shelf at two-thirds height. Gain the shelf, then from its left end continue straight up to a difficult exit onto the slab, or escape more easily rightwards to the corner. It is also possible to exit leftwards to Tippling Wall at 5a by following the horizontal crack.

Alan Taylor, Tony Marr both solo. 17thApril 1977. Tony had spotted the line so had first attempt. He was going well until he tried getting a jam in the crack above the shelf, and found it blocked by small loose pebbles. This is not the best place to hang around and clean holds, and very soon he was forced to drop off for a rest. He had barely hit the ground before Alan, always the opportunist, quickly stepped in and flashed the climb. After a few choice expletives, Tony consoled himself with a more leisurely ascent.  

Left Exit: Tony Marr solo. May 1971. Originally climbed as a variation to the Girdle Traverse.

 

80. Tippling Traverse   10m   6b

A popular test piece. Start in the corner at the foot of Plumb Line. Traverse left following the horizontal fault around to Tippling Wall, then either escape up Tippling Wall or continue traversing to finish up Hangover. Now reverse it!

Tony Marr September 1979

It’s also possible to traverse even lower, keeping hands at about the 1m level at 6c. Ian Cummins 1982.

 

The leaning buttress adjacent to Drunken Buttress is known as…

 

Pisa Buttress

 

81. Plumb Line   7m   S

The out of plumb corner crack between Drunken Buttress and Pisa Buttress is distinctly awkward. Finish up the steep slab on the right.

Pre 1956

 

82. Pisa Buttress   7m   VS 5a

Starts between Plumb Line and Gravity Wall. Ascend the wall on small holds to the break then move right to gain a shelf with difficulty. Finish direct.

1970s

 

83. Gravity Wall   7m    HS 4b   *

Begin at the blunt toe of the buttress. Climb straight up to the break then move diagonally left, and up to the top corner of the buttress.

Pre 1956

 

83a. Gravity Wall Direct   7m   HS 4c   **

A direct start beginning up Pisa Buttress then joining the normal route at the top corner is a fingery 4c. It is also possible to finish direct at 4c.

 

83b. Graviton   8m   E1 5b   **
A good and surprisingly independent route that ascends the narrow wall between Gravity Wall and
Galileo's Gully.
Start up the left edge of the chimney and climb to the first break. Climb straight up [crux] to gain the right end of the obvious shelf. A sloping finish awaits!
An excellent climb that packs a lot into eight metres.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 28/07/2009

 

84. Galileo’s Gully   7m   S

Bridge up the outside of the chimney. Climbing inside is D and considered cheating.

Pre 1956

 

Pisa Buttress leans against...

 

Scugdale Buttress

 

85. Tooth and Nail   8m   MVS 4b   *

The lower part of the wall is climbed on good but widely spaced holds, move left and up the top crack without bridging onto the adjacent wall.

J Elliot, W Wrigglesworth. 1958. The original Scugdale Buttress route.

 

86. Supine   8m   VS 5a

Step off the boulder and climb directly up the left side of the arête on fragile holds.

1960s

 

87. Hybrid   10m   HS 4b

Start up Scugdale Chimney then move left around the arête, passing under the overhang of Supine to finish up Tooth and Nail.

Pre 1956

 

88. Scugdale Chimney Eliminate   8m   VS 4b

Climb the narrow wall just to the left of the curving chimney, to pull straight over the overhang to the top.

1960s

 

89. Scugdale Chimney   8m   D   *

The obvious curving chimney crack.

Pre 1956

 

90. Scugdale Wall    8m   MVS 4b

The steep wall immediately right of Scugdale Chimney is climbed direct to finish in the chimney.

Nick Dixon 1980

 

91. Zeta Wall   8m   VS 4c   **

Follows the diagonal crack in the wall right of Scugdale Chimney. The crux is reaching the start of the crack from where the climbing becomes more reasonable. Finish just right of the chimney.

Pre 1956. The climb was originally graded Severe, but it has become much harder and about a metre higher due to ground erosion.

 

92. Deviator   7m   HVS 5c   *

Start below a shallow hanging groove to the right of Zeta Wall. Climb the groove [which is become much harder due to worn holds], then continue more easily across the break and up a faint crack to an awkward finish. Starting from the block on the right reduces the grade to 5a.

Eric (Spider) Penman 1960. 

 

93. Nameless Crack   5m   VD

The awkward crack just right of Deviator.

Pre 1956.

 

94. Low Level Traverse   20m   5c-6b

The whole crag can be traversed rarely more than 0.5m above the ground, but only the most interesting section from Nameless Crack to Hangover on Drunken Buttress is described. The climb can also be done in the opposite direction.

             
There are three specific crux sections:


1. Nameless Crack-Zeta Wall   6a
2. Supine-Galileo’s Gully   5c
3. Plumb Line-Tippling Wall  
6b


Sections 1,3: Tony Marr September 1979

Section: 2 Paul Ingham October 1979

First Continuous Traverse: Paul Ingham, Tony Marr October 1979. The pair specialised in very technical, finger wrecking traverses as part of their training regime for “bigger things”. There are few crags in the area without similar problems by this team.

 

The next buttress is...

 

Barker’s Buttress

 

95. Cubs’ Climb   5m   D
Climb the left side of the wall on good holds to finish up a shallow corner.
Pre 1956

 

96. Pups’ Climb   6m   S

Follow the crack system to two-thirds height then finish on small pockets.

Pre 1956

 

97. Bonzo   7m   VS 5b Only Just   *

A climb whose bark is worse than its bite. Start 1m right of the last climb at the base of a curving blind flake. Climb straight up the wall using a letterbox hold at mid-height (4b, if you use a pocket on the left). Continue directly to the top.

Early 1970s

 

98. Pets’ Corner   7m   HS 4b   *

Climb the wall and crack line just left of the arête.

Pre 1956

Pet's Corner

 

99. The Arête   7m   VS 4c

The arête is climbed directly up its edge.

1960s

 

100. Whippet Wall   7m   VS 4c

Straight up the middle of the steep wall to finish via a thin flake crack.

Arthur Evans. Pre 1956

 

101. Barker’s Chimney   6m   D

The chimney in the corner.

Arthur Barker and party early 1930s

 

102. Pluto   6m   HS 4b

The undercut wall immediately right of the corner is climbed directly up its left side. Strenuous.

Pre 1956

 

103. Pluto Variant   6m   HVS 6a

Climb the right side of the wall on small holds and long reaches. Using the edge of the wall or the large boulder on the right is cheating. 

Johnny Adams, Tony Marr 1970

 

104. Cat Walk   7m   HD

Step off the large boulder, traverse left along the break and finish up Pluto.

Pre 1956

 

105. Hyena   5m   S

From the top of the large boulder climb the steep arête directly above.

1960s

 

106. Cerberus Crack   5m   S

The awkward curving crack just right of Hyena.

Pre 1956

 

107. Peke’s Perch                   5m   S

Takes the thin crack and small niche right of Cerberus Crack.

Pre 1956

 

The chimney in the corner provides an easy climb at Mod, and also serves as a useful descent route.

 

Holly Tree Buttress

The slabby wall to the left of the Holly tree provides some popular problems.

 

108. Pingers Left-Hand   6m   VS 5a

Straight up the left side of the wall on shallow pockets and breaks, but without using the two good ledges or the left edge.

Attributed to John Chambers. Early 1960s

 

109. Pingers   6m   VS 5a   **

Climb directly up the centre of the wall using small pockets and flakes.

Attributed to Fred Lightfoot. Early 1960s. This enjoyable and popular problem has been climbed in many different ways, no pockets, no breaks, no footholds etc; the choice is yours.

 

Pingers

 

110. Pingers Right-Hand   6m   VS 5b

Immediately right of Pingers. The rules are: - Use only footholds on the right edge of the wall, no holds on the wall beneath the overlap, and nothing that you previously used for Pingers. It doesn’t leave a lot! 

Kelvin Neal. Late 1970s

 

111. Prickly Rib   6m   HVD

Climb the wall just left of the Holly to finish up the rib.

Pre 1956

 

112. Holly Tree Chimney   8m   HD

Start just right of the Holly on the corner. Climb up and cross a slab beneath the overhang to finish up the chimney. The crux is avoiding being prickled by the Holly.

Pre 1956

 

113. Touch and Go   7m   E2 6b

Start as for the previous climb. Climb the slab to the roof and pull over nose on its left side using small holds and the arête of the nose. The grade varies with the height of the holly. Bold with a very unpleasant landing.

Tony Marr solo 1st November 1989

 

114. Holly Tree Wall   7m   HS 4b   *

Climb the wall then the thin crack just right of the overhang.

Pre 1956

Variation: Holly Tree Hover   VS 5a

Start as for the previous route then pull over the overhang left of the crack to a short but strenuous finish.

J. Elliot, W. Wrigglesworth. 1959

 

115. Saint’s Wall   6m   HVD   *

The fist wide crack immediately right of Holly Tree Wall. Distinctly awkward.

Pre 1956

 

116. Oak Tree Wall   6m   S

Start just right of Saint’s Wall. Climb the short corner then move right (using the Oak tree ledge as little as possible) up the scoop in the wall to a precarious mantelshelf exit.

Pre 1956

 

Just right of the Oak tree a gully divides a short wall. The steep arête left of the gully is S and the wall on the right is D. Other variants are possible.

 

The next climb on the right is...

 

117. The Mantelshelf   6m   HS 4b   *

Up the polished slab to make an awkward move over the bulge at its left end. Continue to the top.

Pre 1956. This classic problem has masqueraded as Diff. for many years.

 

118. Humpty Dumpty   6m   HS 4b

Climb directly up the right edge of the bulge without using the chimney.

1961

 

A few metres further right is a short sunken wall just in front a tall buttress...

 

The Razor

 

119. Central Route   3m   HVD

Takes the centre of the short wall to an awkward sloping exit.

Pre 1956

 

120. Slashed Wall    3m   HVD

Climb the shallow slanting grooves in the edge of the short wall.

Pre 1956

 

121. The Gash   3m   D

Climb the short V chimney. 

 

122. The Gash - Arête Finish   7m   HS 4b

Follow the previous climb to the ledge then continue up the blunt arête on the right to finish up a shallow groove. Delicate.

Tony Marr. May 1988     

 

123. Razor Wall   7m   HS 4b

Climb the centre of the wall keeping left of the flake crack.

1960s

 

124. Razor Rib   8m   VD   **

Climb the wall just left of the arête to finish up the flake crack. A superb pitch.

Arthur Evans 1956

 

125. Gillette   6m   VS 5a

Start on the right side of the arête. Using the arête for the hands, layback up the edge to mantelshelf onto the ledge. Finish up the rib. Now try it again but without using the arête or the crack of Suds at 5c. A popular problem.

Eric (Spider) Penman 1960

 

The next four climbs start from a curving shelf and have an air of seriousness out of all proportion to their height.

 

126. The Strop   6m   D

Gain the shelf and follow it leftwards to finish up the left side of the arête.

Pre 1956

 

127. Suds   3m   HVS 5a
Climb the hanging finger crack on the left.
Johnny Carter 1959               

 

128. Tension   3m   HVS 5b

The steep wall just right of Suds following a hairline crack.

Johnny Carter 1959

 

129. Tension Right-Hand   3m   VS 5a

Make the first move of Tension then step right and ascend the edge without using the jammed blocks.

Tony Marr 1st November 1989

 

An interesting Low Level Traverse at 5b, crosses the wall below Tension, just above the ground, to finish at Central Route.

1965.

 

The last two buttresses provide the perfect introductory area for novices.

 

Beginners Slab

 

130. Alpha    6m   HD

Surmount the first wall then follow the polished groove on the left. Take care, it can be very slippery              

Pre 1956.

 

131. Beta   6m   D

Start as for the previous climb then continue straight up the middle of the slab.

Pre 1956.

 

132. Gamma     6m  HD   *

Climb the right-hand edge of the slab to finish on the arête.

Pre 1956.

The arête can also be climbed directly up its edge at 4c.

Tony Marr 1971.

 

The last buttress of Scot Crags is...

 

Curtain Slab

Numerous variations are possible but the best are….

 

133. Curtain Call   4m   D

Start 1m right of a wide crack. Follow a line of flakes up the slabby wall.

1980s

               

134. Curtain Crack   5m   VD

Climb the obvious vertical crack.

Pre 1956

 

135. Curtain Corner   5m   D/VD

Ascend the right corner on its left side at VD, or its right side at D.

Pre 1956

               

Girdle Traverse  

The whole crag can be traversed, but it tends to be disjointed so no description is included. It is left for individuals to find the climbing line and discover the many excellent problems en route. 

Mid Height Traverse 4c: Pre 1956. The original R-L traverse finished at the top of The Plumb Line.

Extension: Tony Marr May 1971. The Plumb Line to Tippling Wall and beyond, 5a.

Low Level Traverse 6b: First continuous crossing from Curtain Slab to Rake’s Buttress, Paul Ingham, Tony Marr October1979. Many sections of the traverse had been climbed during the early 1970s.     

 

 

 

 

 

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