The most popular crag in Scugdale and unfortunately it shows. Please take care to follow the new path following the wall. Thanks must go to the Cleveland Mountaineering Club for there efforts to maintain access (and the new path) to the crag.
OS Sheet: 94
Map Reference: NZ516004
Aspect: South Facing
Approach: 5 minutes
Mini Guide: Scots Crags Mini Guide (PDF)
Situation and Character
This area must surely rank as the most popular venue in this guide. It has all the right ingredients, with the crags being only five minutes’ walk from the road, south-facing and of good quality sandstone. With more than 250 climbs to choose from there is something here for everyone. The rocks’ sunny aspect and generally quick-drying nature makes this an ideal all year venue.
Karin Magog soloing Eve (HVS 5a) Scot Crag, Scugdale
These climbs receive more traffic (usually solo) than any other crag in Cleveland, and although the sandstone is good quality, holds do tire and break. Over the last decade there has been a steep rise in incidents and serious injuries. Take Extra Care!
The 1956 guide stated “the rocks have been climbed on since the 1930s and are probably worked out”. How wrong they were. In fact the number of climbs has more than doubled since that statement was made. Despite the crag’s popularity it has proved extremely difficult to correlate the history and attribute first ascents as memories have faded and few records exist. However, there is little doubt that the first climbers to visit the crag were Arthur Barker and his brother during the early 1930s. Although the Barker brothers made a few visits at this time it appears that they were not inspired by the compact nature of the climbs. They chose instead to practice on the larger crags in Cleveland, considering that to be proper training for climbing in The Lakes and Scotland. Sadly, details of the Barkers’ early exploits remain sketchy, with the exception of one climb, Barker’s Chimney. Indeed, it was left to Arthur Evans in 1939 to produce most of the recorded climbs including, Razor Rib, Drunken Buttress, Parson’s Nose, Whippet Wall, Nook and Cranny, and Main Mast Crack. Also active at this time was the very capable Richard Wharldall who reputedly climbed much of what else was recorded up to 1956. As there is no specific record of his achievements or evidence to the contrary, it is probably fair to credit all the routes from 1939 to 1956 as the cumulative efforts of Evans and Wharldall. J Elliot and W Wrigglesworth were very productive during 1959 with impressive ascents of Scugdale Buttress, Holly Tree Hover and The Pulpit, although a sling was used for aid on the last route. In the same year, the short but difficult problems of Suds and Tension were added by Johnny Carter. The 1960s began with Eric Penman climbing the unrelenting Deviator. The popular Pinger’s and its Left-hand Variant were added a few years later by Fred Lightfoot and John Chambers respectively, but little of further importance was climbed during this period. Tony Marr solved the traverse of Drunken Buttress in 1971, and a few weeks later Ron Lake with Alan Dewison climbed the difficult Tiber Wall. The major route of the 1970s was the modern test piece of The Shelf, climbed by Alan Taylor in 1977. The following year Tony McLean discovered another bold problem, Stewker. The buttress of Eve provided three good but serious climbs during the 1980s beginning with Ian Carr making a bold solo of the impressive Serpent. This was followed by Paul Smith added the equally difficult Hob Nobs, and later the same year Tony Marr traversed the buttress producing Megabite. However, on a cold October day in 1988 Paul Smith climbed the most significant route of that period and the area’s first 7a, Humbug. The 1990s were incredibly quiet with little of note being climbed. Finally during work for this guide in 2002, Tony Marr found and filled a few small gaps, the most significant find being The Keel. No doubt the next generation will seek out further delights to tease and tantalise.
Access and Approaches
From the A19 and places east, take the A172 to Swainby. Drive through Swainby until just outside the village where a left fork leads through a ford to Huthwaite Green and into Scugdale. The crag lies 4.5km beyond Swainby at the end of a narrow road. Drive with extreme caution as many accidents have involved climbers. Park with consideration in the small lay-by below the crag just before Scugdale Hall Nursery.
From the lay-by cross the stile and follow the diverted path, keeping right of the wall, directly uphill. The path joins the right-hand end of Scot Crags at Curtain Slab. Barker’s Crags are situated to the right of the wire fence and are accessed by the stile above Curtain Slab.
Note: Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a CROW restriction for all dogs to be kept on a lead.
The routes are described from left to right.
The first buttress described lies at the extreme left end of the rocks and is called…
1. Auntie’s 5m VS 5a
Start at the left side of the buttress at the foot of a short chimney. Step up right and climb the left edge of the wall forming Rake’s Buttress. Bridging onto the boulder to the left is cheating.
1970. The climb has become slightly harder due to a snapped flake
2. Rake’s Progress 8m D
Start as for Auntie’s. Step up and follow the sloping ledge leading to the right edge. Finish up the fluted wall on the arête.
3. Uncle’s 7m VS 4c *
Begin just left of the toe of the buttress. Climb a short crack then up the centre of the upper wall using three small pockets.
4. Mother's Little Helper 6m S
Start as for Uncle’s then follow the ramp leading up the arête just right of the three pockets of Uncle's.
5. Straight and Narrow 7m D
From the toe of the buttress, move up and right to finish up the fluted wall.
6. Moderator 7m M
Start beneath the large roof. Climb the left wall to gain a good ledge, exit up the fluted wall as for Straight and Narrow. A slightly harder start can be made over the small nose to the left at D.
7. Direct Variation 4m HVS 5b
Climb straight over the centre of the large roof without using the adjacent blocks. An interesting problem.
Gordon Hanson 1960
8. Easy Stages 8m M
The overhang is passed on its right-hand side, then cross back left to finish up the fluted wall.
Across the gully to the right is a small buttress with a prominent nose...
9. Left Side 3m S
Climb the overhanging wall to finish just to the left of the protruding nose. The shallow groove just to the left is also S.
10. The Mounting Block 3m HD
Climb the concave wall to the right of the obvious protruding nose.
11. The Nutcrackers 3m D
Start 5m right of Mounting Block. Climb the wide crack. Surprisingly awkward. The centre of the undercut wall to the left is fun and HVD.
12. Gentle Slab 4m Easy
Ascend the slab and hanging corner, 3m to the right of the wide crack.
13. Spiral Stairs 3m VD
Climb the right-hand side of the undercut arête via a useful pocket. Alternatively, move around the left side of the arête then step right onto the lip of the overhang and finish on the nose at D.
Just right is...
The Parson’s Nose Buttress
14. Parson’s Chimney 3m M
The short cleft at the extreme left side of the buttress.
15. Hand Jive 5m VS 5b
Climb the wall immediately right of the last route on small holds to a difficult finish. The embedded block and the left edge are not to be used.
Tony Marr 1972
16. Jivers Wall 5m VS 4c
The wall just right of centre on small holds. A long reach proves very useful.
17. Bop Route 5m MS *
This is the arête just right of Jivers Wall. Begin on the right and follow a thin crack over the overlap and up the small corner.
18. Bopped 5m VS 5a
Start just right of the last route. Climb straight over the overlap to escape through the notch of Zoot Route.
Tony Marr 1978
19. Zoot Route 4m VD **
Takes the leaning wall just left of the Parson’s Nose. A little route with a big feel about it.
Arthur Evans Pre 1956
The next climb is a short but hard problem.
20. The Nose 3m HVS 5b
Climb the prominent overhang of The Parson’s Nose on its right side.
Johnny Adams 1965
Short walls across the gully offer easy problems but the next main buttress lies 28m further to the right, and is identified by two cracks forming the letter ‘A’. This is...
21. The Neb 4m HVS 5b
This short problem is situated at the back of the alcove to the left of the main buttress. Start just left of the undercut nose and climb to the break. Step right then straight over the top bulge. Using the gully walls reduces the grade to VD.
Tony Marr 6th August 1989
The slabby buttress just to the left of The Neb can be ascended at M.
22. Hadrian’s Wall 5m S/HS 4b *
This wall is ascended by two main routes.
S Climb the left edge of the wall to finish up a short crack.
HS 4b Start at a short diagonal crack then climb directly up the centre of the wall on small holds.
Other variations have been climbed.
23. Corner Direct 6m S/HS 4b *
The steep arête can be climbed on either side.
S Start at the foot of the arête and climb directly up the left side.
HS 4b On the right side, climb into the niche, the “Nook” and finish up the right edge of the arête.
24. Nook and Cranny 8m MS *
Climb the left side of the arête into the “Nook”, traverse right to the flake “Cranny” and ascend this to the top.
Arthur Evans. Pre 1956
25. Direct Start 7m HS 4b *
Start below the final flake crack of the normal route. Pull over the bulge and finish up the crack.
26. Highland Fling 7m E1 5b
Climb straight up the rounded arête between the last route and Bawbee Crack to finish up a shallow vertical fault. Any use of the flake crack is cheating. Bold.
Pre 1956. This climb masqueraded as VS for many years.
The next two routes form the letter ‘A’.
27. Bawbee Crack 5m HD
Step off the block and climb the awkward crack.
28. Blaeberry Crack 5m D
The slanting crack is followed to a junction with Bawbee Crack for the finish.
An entertaining eliminate up the wall between the two cracks is 4c.
29. Blaeberry Buttress Direct 5m HS 4b
Climb the wall just right of Blaeberry Crack, via a shallow vertical crack.
30. Blaeberry Buttress 7m M **
Start just right of the arête. Step up then traverse up leftwards using a sloping shelf for the hands to finish at the top of Blaeberry Crack. A higher variation climbs the arête to the top then traverses left into Blaeberry Crack at HD.
There are several short problems (Diff to 4b) on the small buttress across the gully. The arête and overhanging wall on the left is 4a, and the thin hanging corner crack 4b, are particularly enjoyable.
Further right is…
Romulus and Remus Buttress
31. Wolf Wall 5m S
Climb the thin crack and wall 1m right of the corner. (The short corner is a poor climb at D).
32. Wolf Whistle 6m HS 4b *
Ascend the centre of the wall on small holds.
33. Woodpecker Wall 7m S *
Start at the toe of the buttress. Move up the wall following a line of well-defined pockets on the upper slab.
34. Romulus 7m HS 4b
Climbs the awkward blunt arête just left of the chimney.
35. Tiber Chimney 7m M
Ascend the wide chimney between Romulus and Remus. Caution: A rock fall during the winter of 2000 has left some suspect blocks that still need treating carefully.
Two short problems start inside Tiber Chimney.
36. Decline & Fall 9m VS 4b
Climb the chimney for 4m, then using both walls traverse rightwards above the roof to finish up the right side of the slab.
Ken Jackson 1973
37. Tiber Wall 6m E1 5c
Start from the base of the chimney. Surmount the overhang on the right wall at its centre then continue direct. Bridging is not allowed.
Ron Lake, Alan Dewison 1971
38. Remus 8m VS 4c/5a
Start at the toe of the buttress. Sloping holds lead to the large ledge at half height. There are three variation finishes.
4c Either, finish straight up the centre of the buttress with a long reach to finish, or slightly easier, climb the left-hand arête if you can find the hidden holds!
5a Climb the hanging Right-hand Arête, starting in a shallow groove.
4c. Variants. Pre 1956
Right-hand Arête. Tony Marr 1st June 1975
The next four routes begin from the raised platform.
39. Halyards 5m D
Straight up the
40. Little by Little 5m VD *
The groove just to
the right of Halyards.
40a. Eliminate Wall 5m HVS 5a
41. Main Mast Crack 5m S *
The splendid corner crack with excellent views from the crow’s nest.
Arthur Evans Pre 1956
42. Stewker 7m E1 5c **
The wall just to the right of Main Mast crack provides a popular problem with a very unpopular landing! Start up the middle of the wall, and from a good side pull reach the obvious pocket on the left, then head for the notch in the top of the wall.
Tony McLean, Paul Ingham 1978.
43. Prowess 7m E3 6b
Takes the wall to the right of Stewker using the right edge. Serious.
Tony Marr 11th November 1988. Top roped first then soloed.
44. The Prow 7m E1 5a
Climb straight up the edge of the arête with increasing difficulty to a crux at the top.
45. Galley Chimney 5m M
The wide chimney.
46. The Heads 5m HS
The right arête of Galley Chimney. Start from either side of the arête to finish up the left side on good holds. No bridging allowed.
47. The Bulkhead 5m HS 4b *
The overhanging crack to the right of the Galley Chimney.
Variation 4b. Climb the crack to half height, then reach right for a slanting flake and pull around the corner into a niche. Exit left up the scoop.
An easier variation [HS 1997] climbs the lower short crack directly into the niche on the corner.
48. The Keel 5m HVS 5a
Start at a short crack to the right of The Bulkhead. Climb the crack and gain a slanting flake on the upper wall. Follow the flake to a difficult finish
Tony Marr 23rd May 2002
49. Plimsoll Line 15m 4c
A low level traverse of the buttress from Little by Little to the variation finish of The Bulkhead, or visa versa.
The next small buttress lies higher up the slope, this is…
50. Jill’s Delight 4m D
Climb the wall just left of the arête of Adam.
51. Right Hand Side 3m D
Unsurprisingly climbs the right-hand side of the arête.
Just to the right is the fine tall buttress of...
52. Evens 4m VS 4c *
Start in the gully opposite Adam. Step into the obvious pocket then gain the shallow scoop above.
53. Curving Arête 5m VS 4c
Follow the blunt arête just right of Evens. A thought-provoking problem.
54. Megabite 8m E1 5c
A traverse of the buttress. Start in gully left of Curving Arête, cross Jack’s Delight and turn the awkward corner (feet in horizontal break at 2m level), continue across a delicate wall to finish in the corner right of Serpent. The climb can also be done in the opposite direction.
Tony Marr 29th October 1988
55. Jack’s Delight 7m VS 4b *
Start at the toe of the buttress. Pull up and across leftwards, then up the centre of the wall. Bold.
56. Eve 7m HVS 5a*/ E2 5b*
The sharp arête can be climbed on either side. The left side is 5a, the right side is 5b. Both climbs are serious.
Left Side: Tony Marr, Andrew Webb 6th.April 1975
Right Side: Dave McKinney 1978
57. Hob Nobs 7m E3 6a
Begin about 1m right of the arête and climb the delicate wall direct. Serious.
Paul Smith 1988 solo
58. Serpent 7m E3 6a
Immediately right of Hob Nobs a crack slants rightwards. Gain the crack and follow it until it is possible to step left on small pockets and up to the top. Bold.
Ian Carr Early 1980s solo
Below the Serpent is a bivouac cave formed by boulders, this can provide shelter from the traditional British summer. The bay above and behind the bivouac cave is known as…
59. Green Wall 3m M
Climb the sculptured wall right of the holly tree.
60. Archer’s Arête 3m HS 4b
The arête provides a short problem. Pull straight up the edge keeping the right hand and foot on the right of the arête for the tick.
61. Archer’s Crack 3m VD
Start in the corner just right of Green Wall. Bridge up the corner until holds can be used on the slab on the right.
Pre 1956. The climb was named after a broken flint arrowhead was found at the foot of the crack.
62. Clarence 4m VD
Start 2m right of Archer’s Crack. Step onto the slab and climb it trending right.
Direct Start VS 5b
Start under the overlap below and right of Clarence. Climb the wall without using the block on the right. The undercut arête just right is VS 4c.
The next buttress has a prominent nose of rock.
63. The Pulpit 5m E1 5b **
Climb the crack on the left-hand side until it is possible to hand traverse rightwards to the nose for difficult finish. A serious climb to solo, but it can be well protected for leading. The direct start to the nose is also 5b.
J Elliot, W Wrigglesworth. 1958. A threaded sling was used as a foot loop to surmount the overhang.
F.F.A. Attributed to Stew Wilson and Geoff Harper 1965. Both climbers led the climb free on the same day.
64. Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon 4m HVS 5b
Start as for The Pulpit. Climb a short crack to the overhang, move right and pull straight over the roof on small holds.
Ian Dunn, Tony Marr both solo. Spring 1980.
65. The Choir 4m VD
Climb the blunt arête just right of the main overhang, mainly on its right side.
Behind The Pulpit is a gully with a steep left wall. Several problems have been climbed here.
66. Lost Arête 5m VS 4c
Climb the left-hand arête starting up a shallow groove and without using boulders in the gully.
Tony Marr 1972.
67. Anvil Chorus 5m VS 5b *
The arête can be climbed on its right side.
Tony Marr 1972.
68. Forgotten Wall 5m VS 4c *
Ascend the centre of the wall. Strenuous.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr 1971
69. Forgotten Arête 4m VS 4c
Climb the right-hand arête without bridging.
70. Low Level Traverse 5m 4b
Traverse from Lost Arête to Lost Chimney or visa versa, with hands in the first break.
71. Lost Chimney 4m M
Follow the chimney in the corner.
F.R.A. Tony Marr April 2002
72. Wall and Crack 4m S
Climb the short wall just right of the chimney to finish up a steep and awkward crack. No bridging.
F.R.A. Tony Marr April 2002
This is the large leaning block with a slab on the left flank, and overhanging front and right-hand faces. It has several excellent problems.
73. Seamy Side 6m D *
Start up the blunt arête then finish via the left edge of the slab.
Arthur Evans. Pre 1956
74. Bottoms Up 6m HS 4b *
Climb the centre of the undercut slab just left of Hangover using all the holds. Several harder variations can be worked out.
Eric Marr 1962
75. Hangover 7m VS 4c *
Start at the lowest point of the slab, at the right-hand corner. Climb straight over the awkward bulge into a shallow groove to finish easily up the slab. Can be a very sobering problem.
Arthur Evans. Pre 1956. The original Drunken Buttress route.
76. Tippling Wall 7m HVS 5a **
The gently overhanging wall to the right of the slab can be climbed almost anywhere on small holds. The easiest sequence is 5a beginning at the right side of the wall and climbing straight up to finish.
77. Tippling Arête 7m HVS 5b
Climb straight up the leaning edge of the wall to a difficult finish over the final nose.
Paul Ingham 1978
Immediately around the corner is a bulging wall and further test pieces...
78. Humbug 6m E4 7a
Begin 1m right of the arête. Levitate up the wall following a hairline crack and shallow pockets to gain a sloping hold. Finish directly over the final roof. Starting from the boulder is cheating.
Paul Smith 16th October 1988
79. The Shelf 5m E2 5c **
The wall has an obvious sloping shelf at two-thirds height. Gain the shelf, then from its left end continue straight up to a difficult exit onto the slab, or escape more easily rightwards to the corner. It is also possible to exit leftwards to Tippling Wall at 5a by following the horizontal crack.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr both solo. 17thApril 1977. Tony had spotted the line so had first attempt. He was going well until he tried getting a jam in the crack above the shelf, and found it blocked by small loose pebbles. This is not the best place to hang around and clean holds, and very soon he was forced to drop off for a rest. He had barely hit the ground before Alan, always the opportunist, quickly stepped in and flashed the climb. After a few choice expletives, Tony consoled himself with a more leisurely ascent.
Left Exit: Tony Marr solo. May 1971. Originally climbed as a variation to the Girdle Traverse.
80. Tippling Traverse 10m 6b
A popular test piece. Start in the corner at the foot of Plumb Line. Traverse left following the horizontal fault around to Tippling Wall, then either escape up Tippling Wall or continue traversing to finish up Hangover. Now reverse it!
Tony Marr September 1979
It’s also possible to traverse even lower, keeping hands at about the 1m level at 6c. Ian Cummins 1982.
The leaning buttress adjacent to Drunken Buttress is known as…
81. Plumb Line 7m S
The out of plumb corner crack between Drunken Buttress and Pisa Buttress is distinctly awkward. Finish up the steep slab on the right.
82. Pisa Buttress 7m VS 5a
Starts between Plumb Line and Gravity Wall. Ascend the wall on small holds to the break then move right to gain a shelf with difficulty. Finish direct.
83. Gravity Wall 7m HS 4b *
Begin at the blunt toe of the buttress. Climb straight up to the break then move diagonally left, and up to the top corner of the buttress.
83a. Gravity Wall Direct 7m HS 4c **
A direct start beginning up Pisa Buttress then joining the normal route at the top corner is a fingery 4c. It is also possible to finish direct at 4c.
83b. Graviton 8m E1 5b **
84. Galileo’s Gully 7m S
Bridge up the outside of the chimney. Climbing inside is D and considered cheating.
Pisa Buttress leans against...
85. Tooth and Nail 8m MVS 4b *
The lower part of the wall is climbed on good but widely spaced holds, move left and up the top crack without bridging onto the adjacent wall.
J Elliot, W Wrigglesworth. 1958. The original Scugdale Buttress route.
86. Supine 8m VS 5a
Step off the boulder and climb directly up the left side of the arête on fragile holds.
87. Hybrid 10m HS 4b
Start up Scugdale Chimney then move left around the arête, passing under the overhang of Supine to finish up Tooth and Nail.
88. Scugdale Chimney Eliminate 8m VS 4b
Climb the narrow wall just to the left of the curving chimney, to pull straight over the overhang to the top.
89. Scugdale Chimney 8m D *
The obvious curving chimney crack.
90. Scugdale Wall 8m MVS 4b
The steep wall immediately right of Scugdale Chimney is climbed direct to finish in the chimney.
Nick Dixon 1980
91. Zeta Wall 8m VS 4c **
Follows the diagonal crack in the wall right of Scugdale Chimney. The crux is reaching the start of the crack from where the climbing becomes more reasonable. Finish just right of the chimney.
Pre 1956. The climb was originally graded Severe, but it has become much harder and about a metre higher due to ground erosion.
92. Deviator 7m HVS 5c *
Start below a shallow hanging groove to the right of Zeta Wall. Climb the groove [which is become much harder due to worn holds], then continue more easily across the break and up a faint crack to an awkward finish. Starting from the block on the right reduces the grade to 5a.
Eric (Spider) Penman 1960.
93. Nameless Crack 5m VD
The awkward crack just right of Deviator.
94. Low Level Traverse 20m 5c-6b
The whole crag can be traversed rarely more than 0.5m above the ground, but only the most interesting section from Nameless Crack to Hangover on Drunken Buttress is described. The climb can also be done in the opposite direction.
Section: 2 Paul Ingham October 1979
First Continuous Traverse: Paul Ingham, Tony Marr October 1979. The pair specialised in very technical, finger wrecking traverses as part of their training regime for “bigger things”. There are few crags in the area without similar problems by this team.
The next buttress
Climb 5m D
96. Pups’ Climb 6m S
Follow the crack system to two-thirds height then finish on small pockets.
97. Bonzo 7m VS 5b Only Just *
A climb whose bark is worse than its bite. Start 1m right of the last climb at the base of a curving blind flake. Climb straight up the wall using a letterbox hold at mid-height (4b, if you use a pocket on the left). Continue directly to the top.
98. Pets’ Corner 7m HS 4b *
Climb the wall and crack line just left of the arête.
99. The Arête 7m VS 4c
The arête is climbed directly up its edge.
100. Whippet Wall 7m VS 4c
Straight up the middle of the steep wall to finish via a thin flake crack.
Arthur Evans. Pre 1956
101. Barker’s Chimney 6m D
The chimney in the corner.
Arthur Barker and party early 1930s
102. Pluto 6m HS 4b
The undercut wall immediately right of the corner is climbed directly up its left side. Strenuous.
103. Pluto Variant 6m HVS 6a
Climb the right side of the wall on small holds and long reaches. Using the edge of the wall or the large boulder on the right is cheating.
Johnny Adams, Tony Marr 1970
104. Cat Walk 7m HD
Step off the large boulder, traverse left along the break and finish up Pluto.
105. Hyena 5m S
From the top of the large boulder climb the steep arête directly above.
106. Cerberus Crack 5m S
The awkward curving crack just right of Hyena.
107. Peke’s Perch 5m S
Takes the thin crack and small niche right of Cerberus Crack.
The chimney in the corner provides an easy climb at Mod, and also serves as a useful descent route.
Holly Tree Buttress
The slabby wall to the left of the Holly tree provides some popular problems.
108. Pingers Left-Hand 6m VS 5a
Straight up the left side of the wall on shallow pockets and breaks, but without using the two good ledges or the left edge.
Attributed to John Chambers. Early 1960s
109. Pingers 6m VS 5a **
Climb directly up the centre of the wall using small pockets and flakes.
Attributed to Fred Lightfoot. Early 1960s. This enjoyable and popular problem has been climbed in many different ways, no pockets, no breaks, no footholds etc; the choice is yours.
110. Pingers Right-Hand 6m VS 5b
Immediately right of Pingers. The rules are: - Use only footholds on the right edge of the wall, no holds on the wall beneath the overlap, and nothing that you previously used for Pingers. It doesn’t leave a lot!
Kelvin Neal. Late 1970s
111. Prickly Rib 6m HVD
Climb the wall just left of the Holly to finish up the rib.
112. Holly Tree Chimney 8m HD
Start just right of the Holly on the corner. Climb up and cross a slab beneath the overhang to finish up the chimney. The crux is avoiding being prickled by the Holly.
113. Touch and Go 7m E2 6b
Start as for the previous climb. Climb the slab to the roof and pull over nose on its left side using small holds and the arête of the nose. The grade varies with the height of the holly. Bold with a very unpleasant landing.
Tony Marr solo 1st November 1989
114. Holly Tree Wall 7m HS 4b *
Climb the wall then the thin crack just right of the overhang.
Variation: Holly Tree Hover VS 5a
Start as for the previous route then pull over the overhang left of the crack to a short but strenuous finish.
J. Elliot, W. Wrigglesworth. 1959
115. Saint’s Wall 6m HVD *
The fist wide crack immediately right of Holly Tree Wall. Distinctly awkward.
116. Oak Tree Wall 6m S
Start just right of Saint’s Wall. Climb the short corner then move right (using the Oak tree ledge as little as possible) up the scoop in the wall to a precarious mantelshelf exit.
Just right of the Oak tree a gully divides a short wall. The steep arête left of the gully is S and the wall on the right is D. Other variants are possible.
The next climb on the right is...
117. The Mantelshelf 6m HS 4b *
Up the polished slab to make an awkward move over the bulge at its left end. Continue to the top.
Pre 1956. This classic problem has masqueraded as Diff. for many years.
118. Humpty Dumpty 6m HS 4b
Climb directly up the right edge of the bulge without using the chimney.
A few metres further right is a short sunken wall just in front a tall buttress...
119. Central Route 3m HVD
Takes the centre of the short wall to an awkward sloping exit.
120. Slashed Wall 3m HVD
Climb the shallow slanting grooves in the edge of the short wall.
121. The Gash 3m D
Climb the short V chimney.
122. The Gash - Arête Finish 7m HS 4b
Follow the previous climb to the ledge then continue up the blunt arête on the right to finish up a shallow groove. Delicate.
Tony Marr. May 1988
123. Razor Wall 7m HS 4b
Climb the centre of the wall keeping left of the flake crack.
124. Razor Rib 8m VD **
Climb the wall just left of the arête to finish up the flake crack. A superb pitch.
Arthur Evans 1956
125. Gillette 6m VS 5a
Start on the right side of the arête. Using the arête for the hands, layback up the edge to mantelshelf onto the ledge. Finish up the rib. Now try it again but without using the arête or the crack of Suds at 5c. A popular problem.
Eric (Spider) Penman 1960
The next four climbs start from a curving shelf and have an air of seriousness out of all proportion to their height.
126. The Strop 6m D
Gain the shelf and follow it leftwards to finish up the left side of the arête.
127. Suds 3m
128. Tension 3m HVS 5b
The steep wall just right of Suds following a hairline crack.
Johnny Carter 1959
129. Tension Right-Hand 3m VS 5a
Make the first move of Tension then step right and ascend the edge without using the jammed blocks.
Tony Marr 1st November 1989
An interesting Low Level Traverse at 5b, crosses the wall below Tension, just above the ground, to finish at Central Route.
The last two buttresses provide the perfect introductory area for novices.
130. Alpha 6m HD
Surmount the first wall then follow the polished groove on the left. Take care, it can be very slippery
131. Beta 6m D
Start as for the previous climb then continue straight up the middle of the slab.
132. Gamma 6m HD *
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab to finish on the arête.
The arête can also be climbed directly up its edge at 4c.
Tony Marr 1971.
The last buttress of Scot Crags is...
Numerous variations are possible but the best are….
133. Curtain Call 4m D
Start 1m right of a wide crack. Follow a line of flakes up the slabby wall.
134. Curtain Crack 5m VD
Climb the obvious vertical crack.
135. Curtain Corner 5m D/VD
Ascend the right corner on its left side at VD, or its right side at D.
The whole crag can be traversed, but it tends to be disjointed so no description is included. It is left for individuals to find the climbing line and discover the many excellent problems en route.
Mid Height Traverse 4c: Pre 1956. The original R-L traverse finished at the top of The Plumb Line.
Extension: Tony Marr May 1971. The Plumb Line to Tippling Wall and beyond, 5a.
Low Level Traverse 6b: First continuous crossing from Curtain Slab to Rake’s Buttress, Paul Ingham, Tony Marr October1979. Many sections of the traverse had been climbed during the early 1970s.