Home
Up
Articles & Features
News
Events
North East Action
Links
Lost and Found
New Routes
PDFs
Reviews
Shop
Training Tips
Climbing Walls
About Us

 

Rud Scar

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 93               

Map Ref: NZ606025 - 604022

Aspect: North West

Altitude380m

Approach: 45 minutes

 

 

History

There is no historical record.

 

Situation and Character 

The crag is situated to the south of Ingleby Incline. The recorded climbing is on two separate outcrops, referred to as East Band and West Band.

 

Access and approaches

The best approach is to follow the route to Ingleby Incline and ascend the incline as far as the cutting. Rud Scar lies a few hundred yards across the moors to the right.

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

East Band

This is the first band of rocks to be reached from the above approach. The climbs are described from left to right and the first route starts 2m left of the prominent corner.

 

1. The Scoop   7m    D

Climb to the left of the scoop by a crack to a ledge. Step into the scoop, which is climbed to the top.

 

2. Ginger   7m   HVD

From an awkward start the prominent corner 2m right of The Scoop is climbed throughout to a large tree.

 

3. Hosted’s Horror   8m   VS 4c

The steep crack 8m right of Ginger is climbed to an awkward finish.

 

4. Roraima   13m   S

Start 7m right of Hosted’s Horror at a large flake below some trees. Climb the wall left of the flake to the trees. Belay. Climb awkwardly user the overhang and finish diagonally right up the wall.

 

About 7m right of Roraima at the extreme end of the buttress and further up the slope is

 

5. Truant   5m   D

Climb the corner.

 

The next buttress is 25m further on. Some bouldering has been done on the buttresses between.

 

6. Tapestry Soft   17m   HS 4b

Start just right of a wet gully at a sharp flake crack. Climb the crack to a ledge, move left and ascend the wall to a ledge. Continue up the corner crack above on jammed blocks.

 

7. Smackwater Jack   17m   MVS 4c

Start bit, right of Tapestry. Climb the corner mainly on the left wall to a ledge. Move right and up for a few feet, then traverse leftwards to a groove. Finish as for Tapestry.

 

20m further right is

 

8. Daddy Long Legs   10m   VS 4c

Ascend the steep corner and overhang on the left of the buttress pulling into a groove on the right near the top.

 

9. Speechless   10m   MVS 4c

Climb up to the tiny cave. Ascend the overhang into a groove joining Daddy Long Legs.

 

15m right is a small buttress

 

10. North Sea Gas   8m   VD

Climb the ledges at the left of the buttress, passing a small tree and finishing up a flake.

 

11. Ekofisk   8m   S

Start 20ft. right of North Sea Gas. Climb steeply to a small tree. Finish up an awkward corner above.

 

12m further right is the largest continuous buttress.

 

12.    .303   10m   VD

Climb the corner to a large block. Surmount this and finish up a loose groove. Not worthwhile.

 

13. Old Friends   13m   MVS 4b   *

Climb the corner crack 3m right of .303.

 

14. Punky’s Dilemma  13m   VS 4c

Start 3m right of Old Friends. Climb the wall right of shattered ledges. The groove is awkward.

 

5m further right are two small corners halfway up the crag

 

15. Fakin’ It   12m   S

Climb the wall to the first ledge. Ascend the left wall with difficulty. Finish up the crack above.

 

16. Overs   12m   D

Climb the wall to the first ledge 2m right of Fakin’ It. Ascend the right hand corner to large holds.

 

Above this buttress is another tier of rock up to 8m high. Some routes have been climbed here at easy grades but there is scope for further development.

 

WEST BAND

An attractive group of rocks about 250m beyond the East Band across a large grassy depression.

 

17. Shepherd’s Slab    10m   D

Starts at the foot of a broad slab, at the left of the band. Climb the slab to a heathery ledge. Finish up a short wall above, near its left end.

 

18. Shepherd’s Buttress   8m   VS 4c

Start 5m right of Shepherd’s Slab. Climb the buttress to a good ledge then up the face above keeping slightly to the left.

 

19. Herdwick Wall   10m    S

Lies around the corner about 7m right of Shepherd’s Buttress. Climb the middle of the wall to the overhang. Step right and climb until one can step back left onto the face and climb directly to the top.

 

20. Merino Corner   10m   D

Start 3m right of Herdwick Wall. Climb to a holly tree and up the crack just behind it.

 

21. Flake Crack   8m   HVD

Climb the crack just right of Merino Corner.

 

22. Shadrach   13m   S

Start 7m right of Flake Crack. Gain a shallow niche and climb diagonally leftwards to a sloping ledge. Traverse left to Flake Crack and finish up this.

 

23. Y Crack   10m   S

Start as for Shadrach. Follows the obvious crack to a holly, continue up to the short corner above.

 

24. Meshach   10m   S

Start 4m right of Shadrach at the foot of a steep brown slab. Climb the slab to a holly, finish up the corner above.

 

25. Meshach Variation Finish    13m    VS 4c        *

Start as for Meshach. Climb the slab a few feet then trend rightwards to the corner of the buttress. Ascend the overlap to the top. A good route.

 

26. Abednego   10m   S

Start 3m right of Meshach at the foot of a crack. Climb the crack to a ledge then continue up a sharp edge to a second ledge. Traverse into the chimney and climb the left wall direct.

 

27. Hawk Chimney   7m   D

Just right of Abednego is a chimney with a chock stone. Climb this.

 

 

Return to top of page

Return to Home Page