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Round Crag

 

ROUND CRAG - BLAKEY RIDGE, FARNDALE

OS Landranger Sheet: 94

Map Reference: SE676994

Aspect: South West

Altitude: 350m

Approach: 10 minutes

Mini Guide: Round Crag Mini Guide (PDF)

 

 

Round Crag is situated in Farndale.  Photo © Steve Crowe


History
The crag was first visited by Steve Brown and Dave Paul who climbed some arÍteís and crack lines then Tony Marr made a visit in the mid 1980s with Paul Ingham, Ian Dunn, Nick Dixon and Simon Walker. The first recorded activity was by Adam van Lopik in 1996 with friends and Steve Crowe visited the crag in 1997 with Karin Magog to develop Lion Inn Buttress. Adam van Lopik dithered while Sarah Normington romped up her route in 1997. Sarah and Adam returned with Tim Fish in 2000 to complete the development of Flake Buttress. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog climbed the well-protected prominent groove of Time Out and the bold unprotected Telescopic in the summer of 2002. Nick Dixon left his calling card during a visit home in the autumn of the same year with his bold headpoint of Scut de Scun ai which is Japanese for "What will be will Be". Steve Ramsden and friends developed the Pannierman Boulder then added Fresh ArÍte with a side runner in 2010. Franco Cookson solo flashed the first ascent of Vampric Obsession in the same year. David Warburton climbed Fresh ArÍte without a side runner soon after. He went on to solo Heel of Approval in July 2011 and then he led Mane Vision in August 2011.

Situation and Character
The crag is in a pleasant situation on the edge of Blakey Ridge, overlooking Farndale. The Lion Inn is a popular destination as it offers good bar meals and real ale. Although generally a very sunny crag, it is always possible to find some routes in the shade.

Access and Approaches
This accessible crag is not visible from the road. The best approach is from the Lion Inn. Follow the wall and continue in a south-westerly direction. Cross the old railway and continue downwards and the crag will soon be encountered. 10 minutes from the Lion Inn.

The Climbs
These are described from left to right.

Lion Buttress
Situated 500m west of The Pinnacle.

1. Freshers Fancy   8m   VD
The arÍte just left of Kitty.
Dave Lavallee 19th September 1997

2. Kitty   8m   VS 4b
Climb the scoop and slab at the left end of the buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997

3. Twin Cracks   8m   E1 5c *
Superb powerful but well protected climbing following the twin cracks through the roof.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997

4. The Lioness   8m   HVS 5b *
Start just right of the roof, continue to the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997

5. Mane Vision   8m   E4 6b   **
The exquisitely desperate wall right of The Lioness is fortunately well protected, as its climbing is ultra-marginal and extremely fingery.
David Warburton, Franco Cookson and Sam Marks 28th August 2011

6. The Big Cat   8m   E2 6a **
Follow the slender groove/scoop at the right edge of the buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997

7. Kitten   VS 5a *
A right to left traverse of the buttress, finish past the tree. Start beneath the right-hand groove line. Climb up to the break and traverse left for about 7m until the top can be gained easily.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
 


Round Crag Pinnacle
Situated 500m east of Lion Buttress.

 

Round Crag - Honey Badger FA (E5), Heel of Approval (E4) and Tournament of Shadows FA (E4) from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.


 


Idle Ignoranse   E2 5c
Climb the arete 5m left of Heal of Approval on its left side starting from a small platform.
Sam Marks, Matthew Ferrier (both solo) 08/Aug/2012

A Fistful of Potash   6m   E6? 6a (not sure about the grade to be honest but who cares... It's harder than E4)
Start as for Idle Ignorance on the hollow ledge. Step off the projecting block into a hanging corner, then to a crozzly foothold. From here intricate footwork allows the upper slab to be gained.
Dave Warburton 8th October 2012


8. Heel of Approval   6m   E4 6b
The unprotectable north arÍte with a distinctly dodgy drop zone! A committing move leads to much easier climbing, continue with care to the top.
David Warburton 29th July 2011

 


9. Pippi Longstocking   6m   E6 6c **
Technical moves may lead to the pocket. A wild lunge from here should gain the right facing corner above.
Ed Brown 10th May 2003 solo after top roped practice.

10. Farndale Fayre   8m   E5 6b **
Start below the west arÍte. A hard but safe crux (small cam) leads to a bold finish.
Steve Crowe 10th November 1996 Abseil pre inspection.

Photo © Steve Crowe

 


11. Time Out   8m   E3 6a   ***
Climb the prominent and well-protected groove (small wires), to step left at the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 10th July 2002
Both led on sight.

Photo © Steve Crowe

 

 

12. Fresh ArÍte 8m E7 6b **
The unprotectable arÍte. Can be climbed with side runners in Time Out at E5.
Steve Ramsden (with side runners at E5) 31st July 2010
Dave Warburton (without side runners. E7) 21 Aug 2010

13. Scut de Scun ai 8m E7 6b **
The snappy and unprotectable shallow groove has lost holds since the first ascent. Serious.
Nick Dixon 19th October 2002 solo after top rope practice.

Photo © Nick Dixon

 


14. Picnic @ Hanging Rock 7m MXS 4c
The dusty groove in the centre of the south face is unlikely to become popular due to loose rock and poised blocks!
Jeff Snoxell 14th July 1996
Epic on sight solo wearing ski goggles, which just happened to be in the top of his sac. Jeff topped out totally covered in dirt having pulled loads of muck and chock stones out of the crack. The first route on the crag.

15. Telescopic 5m E4 5c
An eliminate that climbs the rib just left of the perched blocks. No protection!
Steve Crowe 10th July 2002 solo

Steve Crowe on the first ascent of Telescopic  Photo sequence © Steve Crowe                                                                                                                                                               Photos (C) Karin Magog


The next blocks form an arch against the south face.

16. Archway 5m S
Climb the perched blocks until it is possible to step right near the top. No protection!

17. Pillar Torque 5m VD
Climb the front of the small pillar direct.

18. Just Green 5m HVD
Climb the pillar on its right-hand side.
Jim Strange 19th September 1997

19. Octopet 8m E4 6b
The thin slab to the right can be climbed direct. Not as escapable as it looks
Adam van Lopik 10th November 1996

Photo © Steve Crowe


20. Honey ArÍte   8m   E5 6b ***
Start on squelchy ground below the east arÍte. Some very small RPs may offer some protection. A bold route above a good drop zone which is often soloed!
Adam van Lopik 19th September 1997

21. Vampiric Obsession   7m   E5 6b   **
Climb the wall to the right of Honey ArÍte on its right side. Good but low gear may protect the lower crux, but the hardest move is still unprotected and gripping and is followed by a tree root top-out.
Franco Cookson 21st August 2010 Solo flash first ascent.
 

Vamperic Recession   7m   E3 5c
Climb the wall right of Vamperic Obsession, starting from an obvious ledge. Some gear can be placed in
Vamperic Obsession from the ledge, however it doesn't do a huge amount... Sustained and fun climbing.
Matthew Ferrier, Sam Marks, (both led) Jake Hampshire 15th Sept 2012

 

21a Honey Badger (Link Up)   9m   E5 6a   *

A link-up of Vampiric Obsession into the top of Honey ArÍte, taking in quality positions from existing routes and some new climbing. Make the hard start to Vampiric Obsession, until a step left onto a good hold can be made. From here, follow obvious holds left to join the high, technical finish of Honey ArÍte.
Dave Warburton 13 June 2012 - solo after abseil inspection (but I'd done the pre-existing routes before!).
 

 

Adjacent Buttress
Immediately adjacent to the Pinnacle is a buttress with a rounded arÍte and a narrow north facing wall. There is a stake in place above Dither and the following route.

 

21b. Tournament of Shadows   7m   E4 6a   *

The north facing wall of 'Adjacent Buttress', starting by traversing left (often dirty, unfortunately) from Dither to incut crimps in a depression. A powerful and reachy start (crux), protected by a poor Peanut 5, leads to steady but bold climbing up the centre of the wall passing a poor RP slot on the left. Finish at the capping stone. A worthwhile addition to this buttress.
Dave Warburton 14 June 2012 - Solo after top rope practice

22. Dither 8m E2 6a **
Climbs the left-hand arÍte direct with a hard move on to the top slab. Excellent protection where you need it most.
Adam van Lopik, S Normington 5th April 1997

23. Sarahís Route 5m VD
Starts 3m right of the arÍte. Climb up with a tricky move to gain a ledge. Move left and finish left of the dead tree.
Sarah Normington, Adam van Lopik 5th April 1997

24. Slippery Nipple 6m VS 5a
Climbs the small pillar 2m right of Sarahís Route.
Tim Fish 26th July 2000

25. Dirty Girl 5m VS 5a
Climbs the first small pillar directly. LH and RH starts are possible at a similar grade.
Sarah Normington 26th July 2000

 

Flake Buttress
25m south of the Round Crag Pinnacle.

26. Ditherytoo 5m HVS 5a
Climb the prominent arÍte.
Adam van Lopik 26th July 2000

27. Ditheralot 6m HVS 5c
Climbs the wall 2m to the right of Ditherytoo.
Tim Fish 26th July 2000

28. Flake Crack 5m VD
Climb the flake crack to the left of the blank wall.
Sarah Normington, Adam van Lopik 5th April 1997

29. Wander 5m S
Climbs the right-hand arÍte on its right-hand side. Finish with interest to the right of the boulder.
 


Pannierman Boulder
The boulder is situated directly below Time Out.

31. Slabbierman's ArÍte Font 5+ *
The striking left arÍte on its slabby, left-hand side.
Steve Ramsden 10th April 2010

31. Pannierman's ArÍte Font 6b *
The classic line of the boulder. The left arete on its steep side. SS is Font 6b+.
Steve Ramsden & Lee Robinson 15th May 2010

32. Fat Cactus Font 6a+ *
The steep right arÍte of the downhill side of the boulder. Starts from sitting on the adjacent small boulder with left hand on the arÍte, right hand sidepulls.
Steve Ramsden 10th April 2010
 


The Chocolate Box
The boulder directly below Lion Buttress.

33. Can You do the Can Can? Font 6a+ *
On the north face (overhang and slab) SS. Climb the right-hand arÍte on its left side and onto the slab
Sam Marks 28th Aug 2011

34. The Candy Man Can Font 6b+ *
SS under the centre of the overhang with a pocket for the right hand. Make a hard pull to the lip and the mantle onto the slab above.
Sam Marks 28th Aug 2011

 

 

 

Farndale Fayre - E5 6b** from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

 

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

Round Crag Mini Guide (PDF)

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