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Roulston Scar

OS Landranger Sheet: 100

Map Reference: SE511815

Aspect: West/North West Facing
Altitude: 280m
Approach: 10 minutes
 

This crag is very prominent to the south from the top of Sutton Bank where it borders the Gliding Club. It is about 100m long and 35m high. Many routes have been climbed but due to the friable nature of the rock none have become popular.

 

"I did a few recorded FA's here with Tony ( Ingram and Marr). Tony Marr went on to do a load more I recall. In those days I think we thought (Fowleresquely ) that the steeper and looser the better!" Rick Graham

 

"I've talked to Chris Woodall, who put up many of the routes at Roulston and he doesn't recommend it- sounds like he nearly died there and he is the master of choss." Franco Cookson
 

"About 10 routes were reported in Mountain Life in the early 1970's and I seem to remember that the route descriptions were published in the 1974 Cleveland Club journal. The routes saw very little traffic due to poor rock and vegetation and the last 30 years won't have helped. You could better use your time elsewhere." Jimmy

 

The following list has been taken from the Cleveland Mountaineering Club Journal of 1974.
Note: No technical grades are listed….all these routes were climbed before the introduction of technical grades in the mid 1970’s. The climbs are comparable to those at Whitestone Cliff. The crag consists of four main buttresses, separated by short walls or gullies. Approach the crag from the “White Horse” car park, along the forestry track. The climbs begin at the first sizeable outcrop above the forestry track.
 


The Climbs
The climbs are listed right to left.
 


Buttress No. 1

Easy Gully   10m   D
The obvious gully 6m left from the edge of the buttress.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr April 1971.

Sculptured Chimney   13m   VD
The chimney 6m left of Easy Gully.
FA. Tony Marr, Ken Austin 14th. May 1971.

Situated 20m further left is:-

 

Buttress No.2
 

Deception   6m   VD
Rising from the gully is a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney until it is possible to exit left under overhanging blocks. A short crack leads to a large ledge, finish up the aręte.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr June 1970.

Sennapod Crack   20m   HVS
The crack behind the pinnacle 3m left of the last climb. Climb the corner into a vee-groove. Exit right and finish up the aręte. Bold. You won’t need to take Sennapod after this one!
FA. Ken Jackson, Tony Marr June 1970. [The first recorded climb on the crag].

30m. further left is….

 

Buttress No.3

Chaos   20m   HS
Climb the corner and gully above.
FA. Tony Ingram, Rick Graham 1971

Chaos - Variation Start   11m   HS
Start up the corner 3m right of the ordinary start. Traverse left at half height to join the gully.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971

Elderberry Crack   24m   VS
The crack 3m left of Chaos. Climb the crack direct until it joins ledges. Move left around the corner to finish up a short corner.
FA. Tony Marr, Rick Graham, Tony Ingram  1971

Mockery Grooves   27m   HS
Start 12m left of Elderberry Crack at a chimney/groove. Climb the chimney passing behind the chock stone. Finish up the right hand branch.
FA. Tony Ingram, Rick Graham 20th.December 1971

The next climbs, although short, involve 30m of climbing due to a grass rake on which the climbs finish.

Old Crack   13m   Severe
Climb the corner crack 10m left of Mockery Grooves.
FA. Tony Marr, Ken Austin 1971

Fleet Footer   13m   HS
The crack 3m left of Old Crack.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971

Stump Crack   15m   VS
The curving crack 4m left of the previous climb.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971

30m. further left and just before No.4 Buttress is a small outcrop with a prominent chimney. This is Ivy Groove.

Ivy Groove   12m   Severe
The prominent chimney.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
 

 

Buttress No.4

Hidden Corner   12m   Severe
This is the first climb on No.4 Buttress. Start left of the descent gully behind an elderberry bush. Climb the corner crack throughout.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971

Inscription Crack   24m   VD
The prominent cave / crack 3m left of the last climb. Climb the crack, finish up the gully.
FA. York Scout Group 1971

Spiral Stair   30m   VS
Start 8m left of the previous climb. Climb ledges leading leftwards to a vee-block overhang. Surmount the overhang and follow the groove / crack to a terrace. Finish up a short chimney.
FA. Tony Marr, Ken Jackson 1972.

The next climb lies 60m further left, just past an ivy wall, and follows a prominent chimney / cave.

Mal’s Route   18m   Diff
Climb the chimney internally.
FA. Malcolm Richardson and party. 9th January 1972

Leaning Block Chimney   14m   VD
The chimney, around the corner, 7m left of Mal’s Route. Climb the chimney and exit left beneath the chock stone.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971