OS Landranger Sheet: 93
Map Reference: NZ589102
Approach Time: 20 minutes
Mini Guide: Capt Cook's Area Mini Guide (PDF)
Although quite small this is the best of the quarries, catching the evening sun and providing interesting bouldering up to about 5c in standard in a pleasant situation with a superb outlook. The rock is basically vertical up to 7m high and of reasonable quality. From the car park follow the obvious broad path of the Cleveland Way south to reach Captain Cook’s Monument in about 20 minutes. The quarry is about 200m WNW of Cooks Monument, and lies below the stone gate posts that can be seen near the moor edge when looking from the monument.
The climbs are described from right to left.
1. First Arête S
Climb the first short arête.
2. First of Many 6m 5b *
Ascends the wall at the right of the crag. Climb the bulge on pockets then continue to the top with difficulty.
3. Square Corner Crack 6m D
The obvious corner to the left.
4. Cook's Wall 6m S
Climb the wall to the left on small holds.
5. Cooks Rib 6m D **
The obvious ridge to the left of Cooks Wall.
6. Endeavour 6m VD
Start at the foot of the last climb. Climb the wall trending leftwards to a ledge, then back diagonally rightwards to the top.
7. Resolution Corner 8m HD
Start at the foot of Cooks Rib. Gain a wide ledge trending left to an exposed arête; make an awkward move left into a sloping groove, which leads more easily to the top.
8. Resolution Direct 5m S
Start 3m left of the rib and climb direct to the final groove.
9. Borboletta 6m 5c *
Climb the overhanging wall between Resolution and the corner of Stretch. Technical start with a bold finish. Strenuous.
10. Poison Letter 6m 5c
A variation finish to Borboletta, finishing slightly right on small pockets.
11. Stretch 6m 5a
Climb the crack in the wall immediately right of the corner.
12. Zigzag 6m 4c
Start 1m left of the corner. Climb the obvious crack.
13. Potter’s Wall 6m 4c
Start 3m left of the corner. Climb a line of cracks and blocks almost to the top. Gain the ledge on the left.
14. Jumping Jack Flash 6m 5b
Thug up the overhung groove 2m left of Potters Wall. Awkward.
15. B.K. Wall 5m 5b
Start from the imbedded block at the initials B.K.
Climb the wall to finish at the top of the groove of Jumping Jack Flash.
Tony Marr 5th November 2000
Two metres left is the inscription G.B.G.
16. G.B.G. 5m 5a *
Ascend the wall past G.B.G., and the obvious pocket, directly to the top.
17. Friendly Gully 5m M
Climb the obvious gully, left of G.B.G., past a large ledge at about half height.
18. Friendly Ridge 5m M *
Follow the distinctive ridge about 2m left of the gully.
Update: One of the hardest routes was
Friendly Ridge, which is graded Mod! Has a hold come off perhaps? We
reckoned about 4b.
19. Friendly Wall 4m 4b
Trend leftwards across the wall, from the foot of Friendly Ridge.
20. Tot 5m VD
Climb the corner 2m left of friendly ridge.
21. Flanged Wall 5m 4b
From the corner of Tot, the wall on the left leads to the arête and a mantelshelf finish.
Update: No way is this 4b.
Something like Diff/VDiff perhaps.
22. Flanged Wall Direct 3m S
Climb direct to the arête on small holds.
About 150 m to the right of Potter’s Quarry is another quarry. This reaches a height of 4m and offers pleasant bouldering. The only recorded problem is the arête at the far right-hand side of quarry:
23. Fixter’s Folly 4m 5a
Climb the arête to a tricky finish. Poor landing.
Geoff Fixter, Eric Marr 1959 (IN NAILS!).