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Orgate Scar

 

Orgate Scar © Steve Crowe

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 92

Map Reference: 096020   

Aspect: South West

Altitude: 300m

Approach: 20 minutes

 

History

The first recorded climb was Impede by Ernie Shield, J. Tomlinson and M. Martin and was mentioned in the Cleveland M.C journal of 1964. In 1970 Robin Gay added Feather Light Flakes whilst Gos­samer groove was the work of J. Hancock, Paul lngham and Tony McLean in 1971. Nothing much happened until 1973 when D. Hume, M. Moseley and Glenn Bennett climbed Chockstone Chimney and whilst not a good climb, it led on to further developments by the same team. Paz was climbed on New Years day 1974 by Bennett and K. Shackleton. In 1975, Tony McLean climbed Evil Knievel and there were further developments in the same year by two newcomers, Dave Knight and Pete Ramsdale notably Snooky William. 1976 started well with Dave Knight adding Boston Dangler whilst Bennett climbed the fine corner of Andrex Ferrari. Tib Wall was top-roped and later led by Dave Knight who also added Julia Dream and Sniff. The story seems to end here due to long-standing access problems. It is hoped that this pleasant place will again be accessible to climbers.

 

Situation and Character

Orgate Scar is about half a mile long and has a fine open aspect.  Certainly not the 'major crag;' hinted at in the Stu Wilson guide, but the best of the Swaledale crags that we've tried, and just as good as many of the other low grade Yorkshire Dales limestone crags. Visitors to the crag need to be wary of the grades of climbs as access difficulties have hindered systematic checks. Some feedback is highlighted in red below. Stakes have been installed at the top of the crag.
 

 

 

Approach © Simon Calwell

 

Access and Approaches

The landowner has requested that climbers approach the crag via the bridleway from Cordilliaras Lane.

The crag is approached from Marske by following the minor road in a N.E. direction uphill onto Marske Moor. After crossing a cattle grid, the road is followed for a further three-quarters of a mile until a bridleway leaves the road (Cordilleras Lane) on the left-hand (West) side. Follow this bridleway, heading south when the bridleway descends towards Marske Beck and can approach the top of the scar. If asked to leave, do so quietly and report the matter to the BMC locally. The first drystone wall you get to when approaching from the left of the crag is quite open, well left of the woods, with a lot of scree around. This is the wall immediately right of route 42. The next drystone wall is on the edge of the woods, and is the wall between routes 31 and 32. Tib Wall is the obvious clean tower to the right of the wall. Keep going until the trees clear slightly, below an area of solid looking rock, the lines of Feather Light Flake and Chockstone Chimney are obvious on the left of the open area. This section can be approached from the top of the crag but the descent isn't obvious on a first visit. Check the BMC Regional Access Database for the latest access situation.


 

Please keep to the path.  © Simon Calwell

 

The Climbs

These are described from right to left. A pinnacle, Moomintroll Pinnacle is a feature of the right-hand end of the crag and further right is a wall descending the fell and barring access to Limekiln Wood. Hume’s Gully to the right of the Pinnacle provides a descent at the right-hand end of the crag whilst a chimney next to Gone For A Beagle is the descent from climbs on the Central Area. At the left end of the crag are several gullies providing useful descents.

 

The right hand side of the crag can be climbed on but NOT between 31st July - 1st February. Please check the BMC regional Access Database for the latest access situation. Only routes 32 (Snooky William) to 42 (December 1963) are in Open Access Land.

 

 

Pinnacle Area

This is the wall behind Moomintroll Pinnacle.

 

1. Fait Accompli   18m   S

Traverse the wall behind the pinnacle, starting up the left wall of Hume’s Gully. Follow the horizontal break to a tree and ascend the dirty groove above Chossalot.

 

2. Boilerman   8m   S

Climb a loose corner 9m left of Hume’s Gully.

 

3. Chossalot   8m   S

Climb the dirt groove left of Boilerman.

 

4. Blue Funnel   10m   S

A good climb up the chimney in the corner, right of the Ivy-covered wall.

 

 

Moomintroll Pinnacle

The pinnacle at the right-hand end of the crag.

 

5. MjolInir   6m   S

Climb the centre of the face nearest the crag. Loose at top.

 

6. Paz   12m   VD

From the base of the pinnacle ascend a short corner on the left and mantelshelf at 3m before climbing the left face via an obvious crack at the top.

Glenn Bennett and K. Shackleton.  New Years day 1974

 

7. Nine Point Rose Divot and Crown   12m   S

Start as for Paz. Climb the corner then move right up the aręte.

 

8. Hunt of the Giant Mameluke   12m   VS 4b

Start as for Paz. Climb the corner to the mantelshelf then move right and climb the face direct via a sharp-edged flake. Finish above a rounded mantelshelf.

 

Descend from the pinnacle via the right-hand face to a large ledge.

 

 

The Central Area

This is the area between the large, Ivy-covered wall just left of Moomintroll Pinnacle and a stone wall which comes up to the crag at its midpoint. At the top of a scree shoot at the right-hand end of this section is a descent chimney culling through the crag at its lowest point.

 

9. Stairway To Hell   12m   VD

Start halfway up the scree shoot. Climb onto a ledge at 2m then move up a similar distance to another ledge. Traverse left and up the wall to the top.

 

The next climbs are to the left of the descent chimney.

 

10. Moribundus   30m   VS 4b

A traverse. Climb the left aręte of the descent chimney to footholds on the lower horizontal break. Traverse left to the chimney of Yo-Yo then pull out left and Hand-traverse the wall of Evil Knievel to a good ledge around the aręte. Move down and left and finish up the Z-crack of Impede.

 

11. Gone for a Beagle   5m   S

Climb the thin, vertical crack just left of the descent chimney.

 

12. Jam Jar   5m   S

Climb the obvious crack 6m left of the descent chimney.

 

13. Big Dipper   8m   S

Climb the thin crack just left of Jam Jar.

 

At the left-hand end of this wall is a chimney; Yo-Yo.

 

14. Jack the Gripper   9m   VD

Follow the obvious crackline 3m right of Yo-Yo, trending right up the ramp near the top.

 

15. Grip the Jacker   9m   VS 4c

Start as for Jack The Gripper. Ascend the wall direct.

 

16. Yo-Yo   9m   VD  *

This good climb follows the chimney at the left end of the wall. The start is the hardest. It is best to stay on the outside of the chimney, venturing deeper leads to poor rock.

Yo-Yo  © Simon Calwell

 

17. Evil Knievel   14m   VS 5a   *

Start below a bulging crack, 3m left of Yo-Yo. Climb the crack and scoop to a flake. Finish left round the aręte or over the overhang above. This is more sustained and loose.

Tony McLean 1975

Evil Knievel   © Simon Calwell

 

In a bay to the left, is a wide crack behind a fallen block.

 

18. Impede   20m   S 4a   *

Climb the wide crack into a cave. Traverse left and monkey past a tree to finish up the crack and easy chimney above.
Ernie Shield, J. Tomlinson and M. Martin 10th July 1962. The first recorded climb at Orgate Scar.

 

Impede   © Simon Calwell

 

19. Andrex Ferrari   17m   VS 4c

Climb the crack and groove in the corner to the left of Impede.

Glenn Bennett 1976

 

20. Leaning Meanie   18m   HVS 5a

Climb the crack in the wall left of Andrex Ferrari to a mantelshelf at 6m. Step right into the corner and climb this to a ledge before moving back left into the middle of the face. Climb the face tren­ding right to the top.

 

21. Seacliffe Enchantress   18m   VS 4a

Climb the aręte left of Andrex Ferrari. A bulge near the top is loose and hard to protect.

 

22. Chockstone Chimney   17m   HD   (No stars but quite pleasant.)

Climb the obvious chockstone chimney to the left. Pass the chock stone on the inside or the outside (harder).

D. Hume, M. Moseley and Glenn Bennett    1973

 

23. Feather Light Flakes   17m   MVS 4b   **

A very good route but take care with loose rock at the top. Start beneath a triangular pedestal 2m left of Chockstone Chimney. Gain the pedestal by a series of mantelshelves and a flake crack. Ascend twin cracks to a loose finish.

Robin Gay 1970

Feather Light Flakes    © Simon Calwell

 

24. Gossamer Groove   18m   VS 4c  **

Start at a small tree at the base of the crag left of the aręte to the left of Feather Light Flakes. Move up left until a mantelshelf leads to a bulging flake, which is followed to a groove and a loose finish. Another good route with some loose rock at the top but recent activity has cleared a lot of it.
J. Hancock, Paul lngham and Tony McLean 1971

Gossamer Groove      © Simon Calwell

 

25. Owake   18m   VS 4a

Climb the second corner left of Gossamer Groove, which has a tree at its base. It is a fight to get past the tree, the chimney crack
itself is loose and dangerous with no reliable protection until the top. A poor route.

 

To the left of Owake, the path rises to a crest above which there is a crack in the face:

 

26. Boston Dangler   11m   VS 4c

Climb the crack in the face behind the tree. Jam to the slight bulge and finish strenuously above.

Dave Knight                1976

 

27. Q.C.   14m   VS 4b

Start beneath a smooth wall left of an obvious chimney. Climb the wall past a mantelshelf at 4m. Move right into the chimney and follow it until the left face can be regained and followed on loose rock.

 

27a. Mistaken Identity   14m   S 3c

The obvious chimney right of Q.C. Climbed thinking it was Chockstone Chimney! Loose and poorly protected.
 

28. Snooky Two   14m   S

Climb the crack to the left of a pillar left of Q.C. Step right and climb direct to finish.

 

To the right of the drystone wall which runs up to the crag, is a smooth wall; Tib Wall.

 

29. Rainbow Blues   12m   S

Climb the tower to the right of Tib Wall moving onto a ledge on the left aręte at half-height. Move right and up to finish.

 

30. Julia Dream   12m   VS 4a

Climb the wall just left of the aręte of Rainbow Blues.

Dave Knight                1976

 

31. Tib Wall   17m   HVS 5a

Climb the smooth face right of the drystone wall via mantelshelves.

Gaining the overhang is the crux. Unprotected.

Dave Knight 1976 Top roped prior to being led.

 

Only the following routes 32 (Snooky William) to 42 (December 1963) are in Open Access Land.

 

32. Snooky William   15m   VS 4c

Start just left of the wall. Climb the thin crack to a ledge and beyond to another ledge. The crack is followed through a bulging wall to just below the top. Traverse left around a block to finish.

Dave Knight and Pete Ramsdale 1975

 

33. Woodstock  13m   S

Start below a crack in the right wall of the second corner left of the drystone wall. Climb the crack and move left below the overhang and into the corner, which is followed to the top.

 

34. Jaycee   9m   VD

Climb the obvious gully of the second corner and finish on the right wall. A series of gullies breach the crag and provide descents.

 

35. Snufkin   5m   S

Climb the centre of the left-hand wall of the right-hand gully.

 

36. Sniff   8m   VS 4b

Climb the wall to the left of Snufkin.

Dave Knight 1976

 

37. Desperado   8m   VD

Start below a groove in the right wall of the second descent gully. Climb the groove, finishing left of a crack containing a tree. Loose blocks!

 

There are three crack systems up the front of the buttress to the left of the second descent gully.

 

38. Chalkless Chimney   8m   VD

Climb the chimney containing two cracks and finish up the right-hand crack.

 

39. Linda’s Core   8m   VD

Climb the central crack.

 

40. Pe De Rools OK   8m   VD

Climb the left-hand chimney, which is just right of the third descent gully. This chimney contains two cracks and the right one provides the finish.

 

41. Snoopy and the Red Baron   9m   S

Start below the buttress between the third and fourth descent gullies. Climb the crack 2m right of the aręte to a halfway ledge. Follow the right-hand crack over a bulge to the top.

 

42. December   1963   6m VD

Start below the buttress left of the drystone wall at the left end of the crag. Climb the wall direct.

 

 

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