NYM Bouldering Guide: watch the short preview on
York Moors and East Coast Bouldering
Written by: Lee Robinson
Reviewed by Steve Crowe 26th January
This is the first dedicated bouldering guide to the whole of the North York
Moors and its east coast. Over 2000 problems are clearly described within its
380 glossy pages. There is plenty of interest across to suit boulderers of all
abilities. North York Moors and East Coast
Bouldering is packed full of stunning action photos, detailed photo
topos along with clear maps and diagrams. This is the first bouldering guide to
showcase the stunning potential across the moors and coast of North Yorkshire.
The guide is split into three areas, the popular western area enjoys easy access
from Middlesborough, the central area details the potential found on and around
Blakey Ridge, finally the eastern area includes The Bridestones, the twin
boulders at Stoupe Brow and the east coast.
The history of bouldering on the North York Moors is a tangled web that wasn't
written down until recent times. My mentor Chris Woodall has climbed extensively
all across the area for over 50 years and was still snatching first ascents last
year and still he doesn't record or lay claim to these lines. There would be no
record and no guidebook if everyone followed Chris Woodall's approach.
Thankfully Tony Marr has kept his ears to the ground and made a record of
everything he knew about. Steven Phelps has written the historical section for
this guidebook and an extract can be found here.
The A5 portrait layout of
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering
is very pleasing on the eye. Each crag is colour coded to help with finding your
page quickly. Font grades have been used throughout and highball/solos also get
an UK Trad grade too. The grades are split into four colour coded circuits and
white is reserved for unclimbed lines although that will soon mean recently
climbed lines! The final four pages are dedicated to providing a selection of
classic problems for each coloured circuit; Orange, Blue, Red and Black.
Bouldering has always been very popular at Scugdale and The Wainstones however
to get the most out of bouldering elsewhere across North York Moors requires
some effort and usually will involve multiple venue days. Some venues can be
difficult to locate and can be hidden under the bracken late in the season so
careful planning and close attention to the text within the guidebook is
essential to enjoy the best the area has to offer. Fantastic climbing on quiet
crags within a stunning scenery often finishing at superb pubs could be the
reward for your efforts. The section on Campsites, shops, pubs, heritage and
tourist sites will be useful for those wishing to plan for an extended stay.
Venues included in the western area are: Low Water Stones, High Crag, Kay Nest,
Tranmire Rocks, Earthworks Rocks, Wainstones and Garfit Quarry, Cold Moor,
Thimbleby Crag, Scugdale, Ingleby Incline, Park Nab and NOS Boulder, Captain
Cook’s and Roseberry Topping. Also brief mentions of other outcrops like Apple
Tree Rocks, Tarn Hole, Todd Intake, Collar Ridge, Badger Stone and Highcliff
Nab. Venues included in the central area are: Ravenswick Quarry, Duck and The
Inbetweeners, Oak Crag, Petergate Quarry, Thorgill Crag, The Meadow, Middle
Ridge Crag, Rosedale Head, Round Crag, Northdale, Dale Head, Clemitt’s, Camp
Hill, The Finkelstones and Castleton Quarries, with a small mention of the edges
in Farndale. Venues included in the eastern area are: The Bridestones, Levisham,
Hunt House and Blawath Crag, Glaisdale Head, Arncliffe Woods and Limber Hill,
Cloughton Wyke, Smuggler’s Terrace, Stoupe Brow and Boulby, with a mention of
the tricky to access Rocky Point. Read more detailed information about North
York Moors Bouldering on
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