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North York Moors Bouldering



NYM Bouldering Guide: watch the short preview on vimeo http://vimeo.com/111147021


North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering

ISBN: 13: 9780993104206

Written by: Lee Robinson

Published by: betaguides

Reviewed by Steve Crowe 26th January 2015

This is the first dedicated bouldering guide to the whole of the North York Moors and its east coast. Over 2000 problems are clearly described within its 380 glossy pages. There is plenty of interest across to suit boulderers of all abilities. North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering is packed full of stunning action photos, detailed photo topos along with clear maps and diagrams. This is the first bouldering guide to showcase the stunning potential across the moors and coast of North Yorkshire. The guide is split into three areas, the popular western area enjoys easy access from Middlesborough, the central area details the potential found on and around Blakey Ridge, finally the eastern area includes The Bridestones, the twin boulders at Stoupe Brow and the east coast.

The history of bouldering on the North York Moors is a tangled web that wasn't written down until recent times. My mentor Chris Woodall has climbed extensively all across the area for over 50 years and was still snatching first ascents last year and still he doesn't record or lay claim to these lines. There would be no record and no guidebook if everyone followed Chris Woodall's approach. Thankfully Tony Marr has kept his ears to the ground and made a record of everything he knew about. Steven Phelps has written the historical section for this guidebook and an extract can be found here.

The A5 portrait layout of
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering is very pleasing on the eye. Each crag is colour coded to help with finding your page quickly. Font grades have been used throughout and highball/solos also get an UK Trad grade too. The grades are split into four colour coded circuits and white is reserved for unclimbed lines although that will soon mean recently climbed lines! The final four pages are dedicated to providing a selection of classic problems for each coloured circuit; Orange, Blue, Red and Black.

Bouldering has always been very popular at Scugdale and The Wainstones however to get the most out of bouldering elsewhere across North York Moors requires some effort and usually will involve multiple venue days. Some venues can be difficult to locate and can be hidden under the bracken late in the season so careful planning and close attention to the text within the guidebook is essential to enjoy the best the area has to offer. Fantastic climbing on quiet crags within a stunning scenery often finishing at superb pubs could be the reward for your efforts. The section on Campsites, shops, pubs, heritage and tourist sites will be useful for those wishing to plan for an extended stay.

Venues included in the western area are: Low Water Stones, High Crag, Kay Nest, Tranmire Rocks, Earthworks Rocks, Wainstones and Garfit Quarry, Cold Moor, Thimbleby Crag, Scugdale, Ingleby Incline, Park Nab and NOS Boulder, Captain Cook’s and Roseberry Topping. Also brief mentions of other outcrops like Apple Tree Rocks, Tarn Hole, Todd Intake, Collar Ridge, Badger Stone and Highcliff Nab. Venues included in the central area are: Ravenswick Quarry, Duck and The Inbetweeners, Oak Crag, Petergate Quarry, Thorgill Crag, The Meadow, Middle Ridge Crag, Rosedale Head, Round Crag, Northdale, Dale Head, Clemitt’s, Camp Hill, The Finkelstones and Castleton Quarries, with a small mention of the edges in Farndale. Venues included in the eastern area are: The Bridestones, Levisham, Hunt House and Blawath Crag, Glaisdale Head, Arncliffe Woods and Limber Hill, Cloughton Wyke, Smuggler’s Terrace, Stoupe Brow and Boulby, with a mention of the tricky to access Rocky Point. Read more detailed information about North York Moors Bouldering on


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