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North York Moors

 

 

Bouldering
Battersby Crag
Beacon Scar
Botton Head
Bridestones
Broughton Bank
Brown Hill Quarry
Cambo Buttress
Camp Hill
Carlton Bank
Castleton Rigg
Catter Beck
Clemitt's Crag
Cockshaws Quarry
Cold Moor
Cook's Crag
Cringle Crag
Danby
Duck Crag
Earthwork Rocks
Easby View Quarry
East Banks
Esklets
Eston Nab
Filey Brigg
Garfit Quarry
Hanging Stone
Harland Moor Crag
Highcliff Nab
High Crag, Tripsdale
Hillhouse Nab
Ingleby Incline
Kepwick
Kettle How
Kiln View Crag
Landslip
Little Blakey
Lonsdale Quarry
Lower Fox Crag
Middle Head Crag
Middle Ridge Crag
Oak Crag
Otterhill Bastion
Park Nab
Peak Scar
Potters Quarry
Raven's Scar
Ravenswick Quarry
Roseberry Topping
Roulston Scar
Round Crag
Rud Scar
Scarth Wood Pinnacle
Scugdale
Shaw Crag
Silton
Smuggler's Terrace
Stoupe Brow
Tarn Hole
Thimbleby Crag
Thorgill Crag
Tranmire Rocks
Turkey Nab
Wainstones
Whitestone Cliffe

 

The North York Moors Area

The North York Moors as defined by this website has been stretched to include Filey in the far south near Scarborough, otherwise the area reflects that previously covered by the Cleveland Mountaineering Club guidebooks. The sandstone outcrops in the quiet valley of Scugdale, Highcliffe Nab above Guisborough and The Wainstones in the Hasty Bank Area will always be popular with the Teesside based climbers. The limestone outcrops of Whitestone Cliffe and Peak Scar have some great moderately graded routes but these demand respect and are certainly not venues for the novice.

Round Crag in Farndale contains a high concentration of hard new routes whereas Oak Crag and Cold Moor offer many more moderate new routes to explore. High Crag and Tarn Hole Crag in Tripsdale are new discoveries for this guide and Warrior should be on every E2 climbers tick list.

Filey has become more popular follow the introduction of bolts to this incredibly steep venue.

The CMC has worked closely on this section.

 

 

Grading
The grading style varies from crag to crag. In some cases the traditional mixture of adjectival and technical gradings has been used, however on the generally shorter crags with reasonable landings, only a technical grade has been allocated to climbs above severe.

 

The possible outcome of a fall is left for each individual to assess but these routes are generally soloed. Some aid climbs are recorded; however it is generally accepted that the pegging of free routes is to be deplored as the rock is damaged irretrievably and the routes permanently spoilt for others. Font grades have also been introduced at some crags where bouldering is popular.
 

 


Conservation
It is important that climbers respect the natural environment and take care to cause minimum disturbance to the crags and their approaches. Please respect the landowners’ and their tenants’ rights. Large and commercial groups should always seek permission before using any crags. To avoid future restrictions on access, park thoughtfully, remembering that: farm vehicles may require access at any time.

 

Remember the Country Code; take home any litter, even that left by others; and keep dogs on a leash, especially at lambing time. On established routes plants and wildlife should at all times be respected. Before cleaning new routes or developing new crags, the environmental impact should be considered and where appropriate the Nature Conservancy Council should be consulted. The crags are a finite resource; do not do anything which might lead to further access restrictions.

The description of any route on this site is made in good faith as a record of a previous ascent and no right of access is implied. In cases of doubt the BMC should be consulted to confirm the current access situation. If confronted at the crag, retreat quietly and report the incident to the BMC.

The chipping of holds is the most deplorable practice of all. In a similar vein none of the crags included in this guide is suitable for climbing with ice axe and crampons. The rock is too soft and is easily damaged.

 

 

 

Guidebooks
Rock climbing has been recorded on the crags of the North York Moors since 1906 and there has been much development since then. The routes have been documented in various previous guides.

1956 Climbs in Cleveland Maurice Wilson
1961 Climbs on the North York Moors Maurice Wilson
1970 North York Moors Tony Marr
1980 North of England Stewart Wilson and Ron Kenyon
1985 Rock climbs on the North York Moors Peter Simcock
1992 North of England Rock Climbs Stewart Wilson
1994 North York Moors Supplement Tony Marr
1995 Climbing in North East England Steve Crowe, Bob Bennett and Mark Turner
2003 Climbing in North East England Steve Crowe, Bob Bennett and Mark Turner
2015 North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering Lee Robinson

 

New routes can be recorded by email to The Editor at this address.

 

   

 

 

Winter Climbing is not consider appropriate on the North York Moors  

 

Access Update:

Check the BMC Regional Access Database for the latest access situation.

 

Illegal riding of Motorbikes & Driving 4x4s on North York Moors. There has been a considerable increase in this activity over the last few years causing erosion & noise. Under the new Countryside Act there are heavy penalties including confiscation of bikes or vehicles for repeat offenders. To assist the police & National Park in resolving this problem would you please report details of any incidents & giving location to; Karl Gerhardsen, Recreation & Access Officer, North York Moors National Park Authority, The Old Vicarage, Bondgate, Helmsley, York. YO62 5BP Phone 01439 770657 or by Email

 

Climbers may not be aware that dogs will NOT be allowed on many areas of the new Open Access Land on the North York Moors, this is to protect ground nesting birds and prevent the spread of disease. They are allowed on Public Rights of Way but must be kept under close control. Climbers are requested to comply with this restriction as the majority of the crags that we climb on are on the new Access Land and if climbers are found to be ignoring it English Nature could apply for a permanent restriction preventing us climbing on the crags. Check the up to date access situation on the Countryside Access web site.

 

Finally despite signage to the contrary there should be no objection to discreet climbing Whitestone outside of the usual bird nesting season.  Reported 2nd October 2005