The North York Moors Area
The North York Moors as defined by this website has been stretched to
include Filey in the far south near Scarborough, otherwise the area reflects
that previously covered by the Cleveland Mountaineering Club guidebooks. The
sandstone outcrops in the quiet valley of Scugdale, Highcliffe Nab above
Guisborough and The Wainstones in the Hasty Bank Area will always be popular
with the Teesside based climbers. The limestone outcrops of Whitestone
Cliffe and Peak Scar have some great moderately graded routes but these
demand respect and are certainly not venues for the novice.
Round Crag in Farndale contains a high concentration of hard new routes
whereas Oak Crag and Cold Moor offer many more moderate new routes to
explore. High Crag and Tarn Hole Crag in Tripsdale are new discoveries for
this guide and Warrior should be on every E2 climbers tick list.
Filey has become more popular follow the introduction of bolts to this
incredibly steep venue.
The CMC has worked closely on this section.
The grading style varies from crag to crag. In some cases the traditional
mixture of adjectival and technical gradings has been used, however on the
generally shorter crags with reasonable landings, only a technical grade has
been allocated to climbs above severe.
The possible outcome of a fall is left for each
individual to assess but these routes are generally soloed. Some aid climbs
are recorded; however it is generally accepted that the pegging of free
routes is to be deplored as the rock is damaged irretrievably and the routes
permanently spoilt for others. Font grades have also been introduced at some
crags where bouldering is popular.
It is important that climbers respect the natural environment and take care
to cause minimum disturbance to the crags and their approaches. Please
respect the landowners’ and their tenants’ rights. Large and commercial
groups should always seek permission before using any crags. To avoid future
restrictions on access, park thoughtfully, remembering that: farm vehicles
may require access at any time.
Remember the Country Code; take home any litter,
even that left by others; and keep dogs on a leash, especially at lambing
time. On established routes plants and wildlife should at all times be
respected. Before cleaning new routes or developing new crags, the
environmental impact should be considered and where appropriate the Nature
Conservancy Council should be consulted. The crags are a finite resource; do
not do anything which might lead to further access restrictions.
The description of any route on this site is made in good faith as a record
of a previous ascent and no right of access is implied. In cases of doubt
the BMC should be consulted to confirm the current access situation. If
confronted at the crag, retreat quietly and report the incident to the BMC.
The chipping of holds is the most deplorable practice of all. In a similar
vein none of the crags included in this guide is suitable for climbing with
ice axe and crampons. The rock is too soft and is easily damaged.
Rock climbing has been recorded on the crags of the North York Moors since
1906 and there has been much development since then. The routes have been
documented in various previous guides.
1956 Climbs in Cleveland Maurice
1961 Climbs on the North York Moors Maurice Wilson
1970 North York Moors Tony Marr
1980 North of England Stewart Wilson and Ron Kenyon
1985 Rock climbs on the North York Moors Peter Simcock
1992 North of England Rock Climbs Stewart Wilson
1994 North York Moors Supplement Tony Marr
1995 Climbing in North East England Steve Crowe, Bob Bennett and Mark
2003 Climbing in North East England Steve Crowe, Bob Bennett and Mark
2015 North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering Lee Robinson
New routes can be recorded by email to
Editor at this address.