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Middle Ridge Crag


Map Ref: SE689983
Aspect: West
Altitude: 300m
Approach: 20 minutes


Middle Ridge is a clean and pleasant suntrap. It is pretty easy to get to and provides a few hours of fun bouldering/soloing.

Steven Phelps approaching the break of 5. Kiln Tower Photo © Stuart Brown


Park at Blakely Junction and head east down into the valley on a faint path which meets a large track, turn right onto this then come of it at a corner & head south straight over the moor on sheep tracks where the crag is about 5 minutes across passing large boulders along the way.


Steven Phelps the crux move on 10. Perseverance  Photo © Stuart Brown


All routes by Steven Phleps unless stated. "I managed to get out up that crag I said I'd developed called Middle Ridge Crag in Rosedale. The main part I had already done last year with a little help & ended up using a mat for everything there which is a good bouldering venue. Around the same time on finding that we found a separate buttress on the other side of the valley which seemed to have 3 routes on it, this doesn't sound great but its a nice piece of rock about 7/8m high & slightly overhanging. I've grouped it together with the venue further below as their not that far apart. I returned in march to lead 2 of them which were brilliant on either side of the rock but left the middle route to another time as the climbing seemed harder & bolder, I wasn't wrong, a few months back I visited again with belayer but on reaching the top I ran out of steam after failing to pull over on crimps & with no way of reversing it I came off but vowed to be back.
So yesterday I finally managed it. I'll leave you some details & some photo's of both area's, there's only a few shots though taken by Stuart Brown."


1 Goaf ArÍte   Font 4+
Using the block on the left for the feet for the first move layback up to a point where your left foot can be positioned on the arÍte, make a delicate move to the top, bad landing.

2 Curlew   Font 5+ *
Start at the small ramp at the foot of the wall, mover right, then left, then with a long reach for the top, fingery.

3 Groove Crack Font 3 *
Layback up the crack using groove for the feet.

4 Bilberry Chimney   S
Head up the chimney aiming left for a heathery finish.

5 Kiln Tower   MS
Straight up the mini tower by use of small ledges, a mantelshelf top out is needed.

6 Ironstone Flake MS
Starting at the slab reach round onto the flake then make your way up to cross over left & finish as for Kiln Tower.

7 Sherriff's Drift   HS 4b
Right of the trees is a slab, climb this using a series of small steps, heathery top out.

8 Sherriff's Pit  S 4a
Climb the cracks then traverse rightwards to finish at a sloping ledge & a flake crack.

9 The Shield/Left ArÍte   Font 5
Start at the left side of the front face, move leftwards onto the arÍte & climb using edges & each side, a long reach helps.

10 Perseverance   Font 6b   **
Start in the centre of the shield using perfect crimps for hands & a small ledge for feet. Move directly into the faint ramp line above & follow this right to finish.

11 Shield Route   VD
Starting at the small slab gain this then head direct up the brown litchenous slab above.

12 Brown ArÍte   D   *
Start as for the last route but once on the small slab reach right onto the arÍte & finish up this, a nice route.

13 Brown ArÍte Direct   S 4a *
Tackles the arÍte from around the corner, good moves.

14 Boot Route   M
The easy slab at the right of the crag.
08/06/10 Martin Whitton

Steven Phelps bouldering on Railway Buttress  Photo © Stuart Brown



Railway Buttress
Map Ref:
Aspect: East
Altitude: 300m
Approach: 20 minutes

Park at Blakely junction & follow the rail path south where Middle Ridge Crag will be visible after 10 minutes or so down on your left, carry on a further 300metres or so along a straight piece of track until it bears right where just below the track rocks will be visible. There is a stake at the top of the buttress.

15 Sublimation   8m    VS 5a
Start at the left side of the buttress & follow the crack to the breaks. Trying to avoid the holly make your way up to finish on the left arÍte of the summit block or just below & left at around the same grade.

16 Moral Highground   8m   E1 5c   *
Climb the centre of the slab without using anything from the surrounding routes. start at a head height letterbox hold then use a very small pocket & small crimps to reach the mid height breaks. From here go direct passing the large jammed flake & straight up the centre of the summit block to a worrying top out. Very well protected with a selection of cams.

17 Easter Island   9m   VS 4c  *
Climb the right side of the slab to the ledge. Continue up just right of the last route to the jammed flake then make a precarious traverse right using the flake & a left hand lay away on the summit block, finish up the right side of this.