Approach: 20 minutes
Ridge is a clean and pleasant suntrap. It is pretty easy to get to and provides
a few hours of fun bouldering/soloing.
Steven Phelps approaching the break of 5. Kiln
Tower Photo © Stuart Brown
Park at Blakely
Junction and head east down into the valley on a faint path which meets a large
track, turn right onto this then come of it at a corner & head south straight
over the moor on sheep tracks where the crag is about 5 minutes across passing
large boulders along the way.
Steven Phelps the crux move on 10.
Perseverance Photo © Stuart Brown
routes by Steven Phleps unless stated. "I managed to get out up that crag I said
I'd developed called Middle Ridge Crag in Rosedale. The main part I had already
done last year with a little help & ended up using a mat for everything there
which is a good bouldering venue. Around the same time on finding that we found
a separate buttress on the other side of the valley which seemed to have 3
routes on it, this doesn't sound great but its a nice piece of rock about 7/8m
high & slightly overhanging. I've grouped it together with the venue further
below as their not that far apart. I returned in march to lead 2 of them which
were brilliant on either side of the rock but left the middle route to another
time as the climbing seemed harder & bolder, I wasn't wrong, a few months back I
visited again with belayer but on reaching the top I ran out of steam after
failing to pull over on crimps & with no way of reversing it I came off but
vowed to be back.
So yesterday I finally managed it. I'll leave you some details & some photo's of
both area's, there's only a few shots though taken by Stuart Brown."
1 Goaf ArÍte Font 4+
Using the block on the left for the feet for the first move layback up to a
point where your left foot can be positioned on the arÍte, make a delicate move
to the top, bad landing.
2 Curlew Font 5+ *
Start at the small ramp at the foot of the wall, mover right, then left,
then with a long reach for the top, fingery.
3 Groove Crack Font 3 *
Layback up the crack using groove for the feet.
4 Bilberry Chimney S
Head up the chimney aiming left for a heathery finish.
5 Kiln Tower MS
Straight up the mini tower by use of small ledges, a mantelshelf top out is
6 Ironstone Flake MS
Starting at the slab reach round onto the flake then make your way up to
cross over left & finish as for Kiln Tower.
7 Sherriff's Drift HS 4b
Right of the trees is a slab, climb this using a series of small steps,
heathery top out.
8 Sherriff's Pit S 4a
Climb the cracks then traverse rightwards to finish at a sloping ledge & a
9 The Shield/Left ArÍte Font 5
Start at the left side of the front face, move leftwards onto the arÍte &
climb using edges & each side, a long reach helps.
10 Perseverance Font 6b **
Start in the centre of the shield using perfect crimps for hands & a small
ledge for feet. Move directly into the faint ramp line above & follow this right
11 Shield Route VD
Starting at the small slab gain this then head direct up the brown
litchenous slab above.
12 Brown ArÍte D *
Start as for the last route but once on the small slab reach right onto the
arÍte & finish up this, a nice route.
13 Brown ArÍte Direct S 4a *
Tackles the arÍte from around the corner, good moves.
14 Boot Route M
The easy slab at the right of the crag.
08/06/10 Martin Whitton
Steven Phelps bouldering on Railway Buttress
Photo © Stuart Brown
Approach: 20 minutes
Park at Blakely
junction & follow the rail path south where Middle Ridge Crag will be visible
after 10 minutes or so down on your left, carry on a further 300metres or so
along a straight piece of track until it bears right where just below the track
rocks will be visible. There is a stake at the top of the buttress.
15 Sublimation 8m VS 5a
Start at the left side of the buttress & follow the crack to the breaks.
Trying to avoid the holly make your way up to finish on the left arÍte of the
summit block or just below & left at around the same grade.
16 Moral Highground 8m E1 5c *
Climb the centre of the slab without using anything from the surrounding
routes. start at a head height letterbox hold then use a very small pocket &
small crimps to reach the mid height breaks. From here go direct passing the
large jammed flake & straight up the centre of the summit block to a worrying
top out. Very well protected with a selection of cams.
17 Easter Island 9m VS 4c *
Climb the right side of the slab to the ledge. Continue up just right of the
last route to the jammed flake then make a precarious traverse right using the
flake & a left hand lay away on the summit block, finish up the right side of