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Lundy

 

Lundy  (2008)
Written by Paul Harrison

ISBN 978-0-901601-82-7

Published by The Climbers Club

Reviewed by Karin Magog 17th July 2008

 

This is a completely revised edition of the 2004 Lundy rock climbing guide by Gary Gibson and Paul Harrison. Just under 1000 climbs are described, an increase of over 200 on the old guide, with routes of every grade from Difficult to E9. The island of Lundy lies off the south-west coast of England and provides a superb mix of granite sea cliff climbs. A very attractive guide by Paul Harrison with lots of colour photo-topos and action shots. Dave Pickford has contributed a section on Deep Water Soling. As befits the island, most of the solos described are at the harder and more adventurous end of the scale, and all require a high tide!

 

Pat Nolan on Satans Slip E1 Lundy © Steve Crowe 2007

Pat Nolan on Satan's Slip E1 Lundy © Steve Crowe 2007

 

 

LUNDY GUIDE by Paul Harrison
Reviewed by Karin Magog
Well the new Lundy guide by the Climbersí Club is now out and what a great looking guide it is too. Whilst still maintaining the look of a traditional guidebook a quick flick through itís pages shows that the CC have really upped their game.
 

The guide starts with the usual sort of introduction with info on topics such as Staying on Lundy Island, Fauna and Flora, Weather and Tides, Fixed Protection, etc. There is also a useful piece entitled A Coastal Journey which takes you round the island clockwise from the village describing prominent landmarks and geographical features that help in locating the climbing areas. The guide also comes with a very useful and extremely detailed separate map to the island which Iím sure most climbers will find invaluable. However, the cliff line of Lundy is very complex so even with all this info donít be surprised if you get lost at least once.

Now onto the meat of the guide and this is where the main improvements lie, notably the use of photo diagrams. There are so many walls and zawns on Lundy that photo diagrams for all the routes would be an impossible task, instead the more popular areas have been covered. The photos are all well lit and nice and sharp, giving a good indication as to the character of the cliff as well as helping you locate your route. As a person more used to Ďoutcropí guides and hence, every route having a number, I have to admit to sometimes getting a bit frustrated with the numbering on the diagrams. Yes the numbers and the routes they relate to work fine on a basic level but then quickly locating the corresponding route in the text is not quite so straightforward. However, this style is consistent throughout the CC guides and those using them on a regular basis will probably wonder what my problem is. Another excellent new feature are the more general cliff photos, which encompass several of the climbing areas and give you an immediate picture of where, for example, Wolfman Jack Wall is in relation to Landing Craft Bay and Black Cliff. Many also show any useful navigational features on the cliff top, (such as the various rocky outcrops, which are invaluable in ensuring you head down the correct grassy slope) and highlight the main abseil points. The guide still has plenty of detailed written info and several sketched maps, all of which should help you locate your chosen route first time. The back of the guide also contains a detailed history or chronology as it is called. This includes plenty of entertaining anecdotes as well as listing the first ascentionists and makes for a good read.

Finally I must mention the action photos as the majority are fantastic. Every grade is covered and all angles, from in your face close ups to atmospheric long shots, all of which capture the essence of climbing on Lundy. They certainly got my adrenaline flowing.

Paul Harrison and team are to be congratulated on such an excellent job. Iíve been drooling over the guide making out my
Lundy Tick List in anticipation for my trip in September. Even if you havenít got a trip planned then still buy the guide as I can guarantee after looking through it youíll be there next year.
 

 

Steve Crowe on Double Diamond HVS 5b Lundy © Pat Nolan 2007

Steve Crowe on Double Diamond HVS 5b Lundy © Pat Nolan 2007

 


 

The Climbers Club publish regular Lundy Updates on their website.


Discover more climbonline reviews

Want to know more then read our article Climbing on Lundy by Steve Crowe.