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Little Blakey

Map Reference: SE 688982
Aspect: East
Altitude: 300m
Approach: 5 minutes

Situation and Character
This venue is located just below the dismantled railway in Rosedale near the venues of Middle Ridge Crag and Kettle Howe. There are two main buttresses with some bouldering spread out around the area. The rock is good solid sandstone throughout with routes reaching a height of seven metres on the main buttress and some boulder problems at a friendly height on the small edge below. The crag is usually sheltered from westerly winds and gets the morning sun. There are stakes above the two main buttresses.


Access and Approaches
Park at Blakey Junction about half a mile south of the Lion Inn Pub on the main Castleton to Hutton-Le-Hole moor road. Take the dismantled railway as it heads south. After about 5 minutes look out for a large track breaking off down the hill to the left and after 50m down this either take a small path down the hill and turn right to reach the bottom of the main buttress or go right along the edge of the moor on sheep tracks to reach the top located by a stake. The crag is on open access moorland.


The first buttress described is about 20 metres to the left of the Main Buttress. The routes are short but the landings drop away about half a metre from the base of the buttress so care should be taken as the fall potential is double the length of the actual routes themselves.

Split Buttress

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps

 


1. Rapture 5m HS 4b
Move up the centre of the wall to mantle the ledge. Finish moving leftwards.
Steven Phelps (solo) 29/12/13

2. Vandal Crack 5m D
Follow the central crack.
Steven Phelps (solo) 17/12/13


The next two routes have bad landings below crux finishes. There is also a loose boulder on the top although it is avoidable.

3. Troubled Girl 5m HVS 5c *
The hanging groove avoiding the crack to a reachy finish.
Steven Phelps (solo) 26/02/14. "The move for the top could probably be done static by the talanted but I had to do it via a dynamic lunge"

4. The Stoat 5m HVS 5b
Follow the left side of the arÍte to another reachy finish.
Steven Phelps (solo) 01/03/2014


Main Buttress

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps

 


5. Vertigo Deluxe 6m HS 4b
Start at the sloping ramp. Climb the lower wall with use of the flake crack and finish up the pleasant left arÍte.
Steven Phelps, Martin Whitton 15/12/2013

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps



6. 90% Chance 7m VS 5c *
An eliminate between the arÍtes, however it's a good one. Move up the flake crack to the ledge but this time climb up the centre of the upper wall on small elusive holds.
Steven Phelps 24/02/2014


7. Venus and Mars 7m E1 5b *
Climb the left side of the blunt arÍte. Passing the small triangular overhang to reach the break is the crux and provides some exciting moves.
Steven Phelps 01/03/2014 "I'd had a quick top rope of this the day before but although it made it difficult to grade accurately, it didn't take anything away from the climbing. I ended up using different protection to that of the other two routes on this side of the buttress, some of it being marginal in thin breaks just below the triangular overhang"

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps



8. Role Model 6m VS 4c
Start on a boulder in front of a short diagonal crack. Move up to the overhang and finish up the right side of the hanging wall without using the right edge.
Steven Phelps 28/02/2014


9. Where The Truth Lies HVS 5a *
Climb Role Model up to the break just below the top. Traverse leftwards to reach the end of the break and transfer up to the finish of Vertigo Deluxe. A nice excursion across the buttress.
Steven Phelps 19/03/2014 "Cams would be useful in the break, unfortunately I had only brought a very small one which was used near the start of the traverse and after that a lone small nut placement on it's side was all I could get, which wasn't ideal"

10. Twitcher 4m VD
Start 3m right of Role Model. Climb the short wall trending rightwards.
Steven Phelps (solo) 11/07/2014

The Bouldering
The problems are all given Font grades.


Crag Slab

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps


11. Slow Decay 5

Pull onto the centre of the slab using a gaston and sidesloper. Traverse across to the left edge.
 

12. Binary Code 6a+

 Pull onto the slab using the gaston and sidesloper again and finish direct via a sloping edge.


13. Lies 4+

 Climb the right edge of the slab.


This next area is hidden below Split Buttress and has a long short edge with some boulders just in front. The rock is a little sandier in places but there are some good low grade problems. Some finishes on the edge have some loose blocks so care should be taken and it is generally best left for a dry spell.



Long Wall Sector

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps


1. Fate 4+

The first problem starts at a sandy weakness at the left end. Climb direct up and over the capping stone.
 

2. Systematic 4+

The next weakness starts 1m to the right at a sloping sidepull. Finish direct or slightly left.
 

3. Funky groove 5

Start just right. Use a flat hold out right to reach beneath the capping stone and finish rightwards using it.
 

4. Exhale 6a

Move up the bulging wall to small edges from the flat edge of the last problem and a right hand sidepull. Finish rightwards using the left side of the block.
 

5. Mi Casa Es Su Casa 5

Climb just left of the arÍte and finish over the right side of the block.
 

6. Copycat 3

The arÍte on it's left side is good.
 

7. Lost Cause 5+

The way up the wall to the right was done by using a sidepull on the rib.
 

8. Good Shot 6a+

Climb the rib from a sitting start at a small ledge. Finish past the sloping shelf as direct as possible.
 

9. Subsist 3

The last arÍte of the edge.

Just in front of the edge are several boulders but only the third one down the hill offers problems which are clean enough.
 


Grouse Boulder

Photo Copyright Steven Phelps


10. Brutal Bill 6c

From a sitting start at obvious holds on the lip and feet in a crack, move up from right to left along the hanging lip to a difficult rockover finish up the central ridge.

There are two short problems round the back starting with the overhanging arÍte.

11. Gym and Tonic 5

The arÍte from right to left from a sitting start. Finish over the highest point.


12. Blunt Force 5+

Climb the centre of the leaning wall from a sitting start at an obvious hold. Finish as for Gym and Tonic.