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Lamb Hill

 

WARNING!

 

You may need a big shovel if you want to climb at Lamb Hill Quarry now!

Photo (C) Andy Chambers (dated 13 April 2015)

 

 

 

 

LAMB HILL QUARRY

 

OS Sheet: 99

Map Reference: NZ023135

Aspect: West Facing

Altitude: 300m

Approach Time: 2 minutes

 

Situation and Character 

The crag is a small west facing limestone hole in the ground. The routes are very shaded in mid winter, best on summer evenings. The bouldering area enjoys the most sun.

 

History

The first recorded activity was by Dave Douglas and Neil Thompson in late 1991. Then Ian Priestnall, Steve Dunning and Ryan Plews joined in the fun during 1992.

 

Access and Approaches

The best approach is from the lay-by above the quarry on the A66T. Scramble down into the quarry past two small bouldering/soloing walls as far as the stone wall.

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right. Belay on the fence well back but take care, check condition and use lots!

 

1. Natal Negotiations   10m   E1 5b *

Start right of the stone wall. Climb direct past three bolts.

D Douglas 4th March 1992

 

2. Pandoras Socks   10m   HVS 5a *

Climb past two bolts.

Neil Thompson    December 1991

 

3. Cadbury’s Flake   10m   HS 4b

Climb the flake.

I Graystone           December 1991

 

4. Big Ted Meets Pandemonium   10m   E1 5b

Climb past three bolts.

D Douglas             December 1991

 

5. Pandemic   10m   E3 6b *

Climb the steep wall past three bolts.

Neil Thompson    December 1991

 

6. Lotty (Born 5 March 1992)   12m   E2 6a   F6b+

Climb past the first bolt to a steep pull past two more. An easier finish on the …… is possible.

Dave Douglas, Steve Dunning, Ryan Plews  1992

 

The next two routes may be variations on Lotty.

 

6a.  Yor-Yor   E2 6a

Climb the wall to the right of Pandemic, keeping left of the three bolts.

DJ Douglas, K Whittaker, 8th, May 1994

 

6b.  Wussies Way   HVS 5b

Climb past the bolts on the right hand side.

DJ Douglas, K Whittaker, 8th, May 1994

 

Past some broken rocks and at the lowest level in the quarry is a single bolt marking a very poor route.

 

7. Pants   10m   E1 5b

Climb past one poor bolt to broken rocks above. Not recommended.

 

8. Trespass   10m   E3 6a *

Climb the far right hand wall to the left of the crack with the peg in it. Climb directly up to the bolts using the thin crack to the left to reach the first break. Hard moves past the second bolt leads to easier climbing a then the top. Belay well back on fence posts.

Neil Thompson, Ian Priestnall          10th May 1992

 

To the right there is a crack with a peg in it but there is no record of a route being climbed.

 

Rennie Barnes climbing at Lamb Hill Quarry Photo: Andy Birtwistle

 

 

Lamb Hill Bouldering

Andrew Yeadon with the help of Neil Gaskin and Nicky Davidson, have put together graded descriptions for the bouldering. "The top wall I feel is complete. I've graded three routes on the bottom wall, the height of which is pushing it a little for bouldering, the remaining problems are for someone with nerves and fingertips of iron." Andrew Yeadon.

Bouldering Walls                                                                                       Photo Andrew Yeadon

 

Top bouldering Wall
Care needs taking regards spotting/mats due to large drop from starting ledge.

All problems are about 4m high. The problems are described from left to right.
 

4a Climbs feature just to right of small tree

4a The obvious crack

4b From stepped start go straight up wall above

5a Start to right of previous problem where wall bulges

5b/c Ouch! Next bulge, feature at head height

5b/c Wall between previous problem and a faint crack line

5c Follows the faint crack line

5a The obvious large crack

4c Wall to right of crack

5a Start where a small diagonal crack cuts lower wall

4a Wall to left of aręte

4b The aręte (Very exposed)

5b Traverse. Start at first problem finish beyond right arete, avoid using obvious large crack running horizontal to top.

 

Lower Bouldering Wall

All problems about 7m high.
The problems are described from left to right.


5a Wall to right of left aręte

4b Line of obvious large crack

5b/c Finishes at large V groove at top of wall

 


Andrew Yeadon on the Top Bouldering Wall


Neil Gaskin on the Top Bouldering Wall

 

 

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

 

Lamb Hill Photodiagram

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