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Kiln View Crag

 

Map Ref: SE 690978
Aspect: East
Altitude: 300m
Approach: 15 minutes


Situation and Character
A small crag located below the dismantled railway close to Little Blakey in Rosedale. The rock is excellent sandstone throughout, with routes reaching a height of 8 metres. The crag includes 3 buttresses with currently nothing in the lower grades. A stake can be found above Railway Buttress.


Access and Approaches
Park at Blakey Junction about half a mile south of the Lion Inn pub on the Hutton Le Hole to Castleton main moor road. Head south along the dismantled railway and after about 10 minutes Middle Ridge Crag will be seen down on your left, carry on for a further 300m until just before the track starts to bear right where the crag is hidden down on your left marked be the top of Railway Buttress.


The first buttress has a holly tree at it's right side.

Holly Buttress


1. Liminal 5m VS 5a
Start at the foot of the buttress. Climb up the wall moving leftwards on sidepulls and sloping ledges.
Steven Phelps (solo) 31/05/2014

2. Devil's Groove 5m E1 5c *
Cross the bulge and climb up the hanging groove on crimps. A good little climb on solid stone.
Steven Phelps (solo) 31/05/2014

The next buttress holds potential for more routes. The first route here though is the prominent roof crack 10 metres right of Devil's Groove.

Culvert Buttress


3. Pegasus Crack 6m VS 4c
Start up on a grassy ledge. Climb a flake into the roof crack and follow throughout.
Steven Phelps 06/06/2014


The next 3 routes all have the same finish once on the central ledge.

4. Blue Industry 8m HVS 5b
Gain the awkward groove without the adjacent block on the left. Follow large unhelpful holds to a long reach for the central ledge. Gain the ledge with difficulty and finish up the steep wall above.
Steven Phelps (solo) 31/05/2014

5. The Alchemist 8m VS 5b
Start about 1m right of Blue Industry. Cross the undercut just left of the arÍte and climb the wall passing the break and a slanting crimp on the way.
Steven Phelps 06/06/2014

6. Soul Survivor 8m VS 4c *
Start as for the last route. Once at the break reach right for the arÍte and follow this to the ledge.
Steven Phelps (solo) 31/05/2014 "The lower arÍte is over far too quickly, but out of the other routes on this end of the buttress this is the most enjoyable"

Soul Survivor  VS 4c    Photo Copyright Steven Phelps

 

 

 


The last buttress is about 20m to the right with some smaller bits of rock in between.


Railway Buttress

 


7. Sublimation 8m VS 5a *
Follow the faint crack just right of the holly tree to the breaks. Finish direct using the left arÍte of the summit block.
Steven Phelps 13/03/2011

8. Moral High Ground 8m E1 5c *
Start just to the right at a head height letterbox. Climb direct passing a small pocket and crimps to reach the mid height break. From here go direct past the large jammed flake and up the centre of the summit block to a worrying top out.
Steven Phelps 24/08/2011

9. Easter Island 8m VS 4c
Climb the right side of the slab to the ledge. Continue up just right of the last route to the jammed flake. Traverse rightwards using the flake and a left hand layaway to finish up the right side of the summit block.
Steven Phelps 13/03/2011