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Kersey Green Scar

Details of this crag was previously recorded in North of England Rock Climbs by Stewart Wilson.

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 92

Map Reference:  083044 

Aspect: North East

Altitude: 320m

Approach:   minutes

 

History

All of the climbs at Kersey Green Scar were recorded by Peter and Elizabeth Dyson, Peter Ball, Bruce Perry, Mark Griffiths and Paul Carling. Some of the routes had no doubt been climbed before but of these there is no recorded history.

 

 

Situation and Character 

Kersey Green Scar faces North East and East across the little valley of Rake Beck on the moors to the North of Swaledale. The crag is part of the same band of limestone which outcrops continuously along the edge of these hills attaining prominence at Applegarth Scar then again at Orgate Scar just N.W. of Marske. Kersey Green Scar is about 4 miles North West of Marske. The climbing on the crag tends to be steep and loose rock does require care in places.

 

 

Access and Approaches

The crag can be approached from Marske or the A66. Park on the verge where the road meets the valley above Rake Beck. Follow the valley downstream to reach the scar taking care with boundaries. The crag is on land owned by Barningham Estates, but the farmer is happy to let climbers use the crag providing they keep a low profile i.e. small groups only, no litter, no noise and particularly no dogs.

 

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

At the left-hand end of the scar is a small, shattered buttress with some Yew trees growing on it. 30 metres right of this are two grooves behind a large Elm tree:

 

1 Cosy Corner 10m VD

Climb the left-hand groove.

 

15 metres right is a large wall with a massive Elm at mid-height:

 

2 Elm Tree Wall 15m VS 4c

Start below the right-hand side of the wall at a crack, climb the crack for 5m to a small tree and continue up the crack to the top.

 

10 metres right is another steep wall:

 

3 Breathing 15m VS 4b

Start 3m right of a clump of Elms. Climb the face for 8m to a ledge. Move right along the ledge and up the face a little way before stepping right to a loose crack in the arÍte which leads to the top. Serious.

 

4 Man of Straw 15m HVS 5a

Start 5m right of Breathing below a steep, corner crack with an Elder at its base. Climb the corner and first overhang and below the second overhang, Hand traverse a flat ledge to the right and pull onto the wall above. Gain the arÍte and finish just right at a tree. 10 metres right is an attractive face with a small Yew at top left.

 

5 Irony 15m VS 4b

Climb the steep wall to a ledge, passing an old peg over to the right. Continue up the crack in the top wall and pull over the top block.

 

6 Lightning 15m MVS 4b

Combined with the top half of Irony, this makes a fine pitch. Start in left of the fist-wide crack in the corner to the right of Irony. Climb the overhanging rib on good holds and the short jamming crack above. Move up to the halfway ledge and finish up Irony.

 

7 The Ramp 15m VD

Climb the right-slanting groove to the right of the fist-wide crack. This leads to the top passing to the left of a many-trunked tree.

 

8 Leaning Crack 20m S

Start 5m right of Irony at a wide crack just left of an Elm cluster. Climb a block to where the crack widens. Move up to a sapling. The crack which now takes the form of a blocked chimney is climbed via its left side.

 

9 Hurst Chimney 15m VD

Climb the obvious chimney 10m right of Leaning Crack. 5 metres right is an obvious wide corner crack breaking through overlaps.

 

10 Curlew 15m S

Climb the right face of the corner crack to the top passing a tree 3m from the top.

 

5 metres further right is a square corner which becomes an open chimney higher up.

 

11 Helwith Groove 15m MS

Climb the square corner to a sapling and continue up the chimney above.

 

15 metres further right is another prominent corner, capped by an overhang.

 

12 Kersey corner 15m S

Climb the corner to the overhang and bear left and up a short crack to turn it. Step back right above the overhang and finish up the groove.

 

4 metres right is a corner with a short chimney at 6m.

 

13 Root Chimney 15m MVS 4b

Climb the corner past an old stump, climb the chimney and exit from it with difficulty using a good, tree root. Step right to a tree and move diagonally left to gain a crack with another dead stump. The next feature to the right is a corner with a very steep, clean right-hand wall.

 

14 Mortar Bomb Wall 15m HVS 5a

A fine, sustained climb. Climb the lower wall by means of a flake and then a thin crack and move right to a peg runner (in-situ). From just right of the peg, climb the wall above to a tree and move left to finish.

Next we come to a grassy bay with a three-trunked tree and to the right again is a steep corner with a bulging, right wall.

 

15 Solid Air 15m MVS 4b

A very good pitch on good rock. Start from a sandstone plinth. Climb the corner crack and move slightly left to finish.

 

5 metres further right is a gully.

 

16 Jonah Wimp 15m HS 4b

Climb the right wall of the gully on good but dirty rock. Could be good with more traffic.

 

10 metres further right are the remains of a drystone wall.

 

17 Dillís Chimney 15m VD

Start 10m right of the drystone wall at a chimney. Climb the thin crack to a cave then follow the chimney above past a sapling.

 

18 Moss Corner 10m VD

The dirty corner 20 metres right of a fallen tree.

 

 

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