OS Explorer (1:25000) sheet OL 31 North Pennines
Approach: 30 minutes
Kelton Hill Crag Mini Guide. by Alan
Situation and Character
Kelton Hill lies in Baldersdale just over 3km, as the crow flies, to the
north-west of Goldsborough Carr, from where it is visible. The problems
described are on good quality Gritstone and the landings are mostly excellent,
which is helpful as some of the top-outs are quite highball. It is a compact
venue offering fine bouldering and an excellent outlook.
An initial visit was made by Alan and Carol Dougherty on 20.9.08. Next day
the team was strengthened with the inclusion of Ron and Michael Kenyon, the
latter of whom climbed with ease the harder problems that the older folk could
not manage. Andy Emery added the sit start to Pain of Time in the April 2015.
(All the Font grades are by Andy Emery.)
Access and Approaches
Kelton Hill Crag lies on moorland that is designated Access Land under the
Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Under the Act the land can also be
subject to temporary closures of up to twenty-eight days a year. Notification of
closures should be posted at Access Points locally and, prior to a visit, can be
checked on www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk or via the Access Helpline on 0845 100
Aim for the road running along the north side of Baldersdale: approach directly
from Romaldkirk, via Hunderthwaite or from Cotherstone, crossing under the dam
of Hury Reservoir. Locate the Public Footpath that leaves the road at 915190,
just north of East Carlingill farm. It is possible to park a couple of cars on
the verge near this point – alternatively there is a small car-park at the
road-head 600m further on. Follow the path past the landing strip – one might
want to muse upon the juxtaposition of this feature and land previously
restricted of access for bird conservation reasons – pass through a gate and
head north-east to the corner of the large field. At the corner ignore the stile
carrying the footpath onwards. Instead cross the north-south aligned wall with
care to avoid damage and head east crossing two further walls. Some scruffy
outcrops, which may provide some problems, are passed en-route. Please note that
there is no right of access directly from the Pennine Way.
The problems described all lie to the east of the last to be crossed stone
wall. The Subsidiary Block is closest to the wall and situated just uphill of
the two main blocks: Left-hand Block and Right-hand Block, separated by a
chimney feature. The problems are described left to right, facing the outcrop.
The Subsidiary Block
The first two problems both climb a pleasant rippled slab.
1. Slotting in Time
Slab left side.
Just in Time VD
Centre of slab.
3. Time and Again
Right aręte with
4. Out of Time 5b
Scoop in south wall
5. Time out of Mind 4c
The blunt corner.
Photo (C) Steven Phelps
6. Stairway Moderate
The back corner of
7. Tick Tock 5c
Middle of wall using
8. Groovy Time 5b
Groove on right of
9. Climb in Time
Saves Nine 5b (Font 5)
Aręte between west and
10. Hard Times 5c
Just to right of aręte
Chocks Away! (Font 5)
Start on ledge –
direct on slaps – serious with ledge below.
12. Bird-strike 5b
From right-hand end of
ledge through alcove to further ledge above. Easier if tall.
13. Crack-on 6a
Directly via tiny
finger holds (? bullet-scars) – high-ball - easier for tall – drifting left
misses the fun and difficulty.
14. Time Torn Man 6a
(Font 5+) **
Side-pull and long
reach to break – further reachy moves to top – high-ball.
15. Pain of Time 6b
(Font 6B) (SS Font 7A) **
Leaning wall on
impressively small holds. The sit start is about Font 7A.
16.Time on Our Side 5c
(Font 5+) (SS
Font 6B) **
Use faith and friction
to ascend corner to left of chimney.
17. Dyno Time 6a
STS – left side-pull –
dyno for top.
18. Stolen Time 5c
1m right of chimney –
undercut to reach break – awkwardly up head-wall. Green, gritty and scary.
o’clock 5b (Font 5)
Follows the slight
scoop in the centre of the block; started by a dynamic reach to a sinker jam in
20. Just in Time 5c
Use rib on right-hand
end of block to reach awkward moves on head-wall.
21. Time and Motion 6a
Start as for previous
problem but follow overhanging aręte. Nasty landing – pad block below.
22. Shaking Time 6b
|(Font 6B) **
Just left of
right-hand corner of roof – tiny pockets – to a “bit of a dyno to the top” (MK)
23. Time Waits for
No Man 6a/b (Font 6A+)
Starts low to follows
prow directly on tiny holds.
24. Whale of a Time 5a
rightwards to an often inelegant finish.
to Kelton Hill the other day, a lovely venue the other side of Baldersdale to
Goldsborough Carr. Managed to climb almost every problem there as well as adding
some sit-starts to those which deserved it. Underneath a superficial layer of
scrittle, the rock is very good quality and once brushed, the problems are very
nice. It's a great circuit for the lower-grade climber and a lovely place to be
of a sunny evening.
I added a sit-start to Pain Of Time at around 7A and a sitter to the
arete of Time On Our Side at around 6B. I think these are new, although I
wouldn't be surprised if some quiet moorsperson had put them up and not told
anyone. A lot of the other problems there are pretty nice too, in particular
Time Torn Man and Shaking Time.
There's no right of way from the Pennine Way unfortunately as this is the direct
route up to the crag, following the Pennine Way to the base of the ridge on
which the crag lies, breaking off left for 150 metres to reach a wall and CRoW
access land beyond. This isn't the route I took, instead following the longer
guidebook description. Didn't get any hassle off the shepherd whilst I was up
there, he drove past in his offroad golf buggy thing and didn't bat an eyelid.
He did bellow and call one of his sheep a cunt though which I thought was
Here's a video of some of the evening's exploits:
Evening sessions volume one: Kelton Hill from Andy Emery on Vimeo.
A pleasant evening at Kelton Hill, across the
valley from Goldsborough. The rock has a superficial scrittle layer from a lack
of traffic, but is very good quality rock underneath.
9. Climb in time saves nine 5+ (scrittly!)
23. Time waits for no man 6A+
22. Shaking time 6B
17. Dyno time 5+
15. Pain of Time (sit start) 7A (first ascent?)