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Ingleby Moor Boulders

There are some problems on Ingleby Moor, south of Baysdale. Park at NZ611069 on the moor near the Cleveland Way. They are a bit esoteric to say the least (!) but as proper boulders are so rare around here they are worth a look for locals. As you don’t really need a mat for any of the problems they can liven up a walk/run/bike in this classic moorland setting. The Cheese Stones are quite soft so careful with the nylon brush. They may well have been climbed on over the years but Mark Buxton provided the names and descriptions used here following his explorations in 2008.

The Lanolin Boulder
This tiny boulder can be seen from the track as one approaches the crossing of Black Beck. Heather bash about 150m uphill. Sit starts are essential! The base of the overhang has been polished by sheep fleece.

The Nose 5a
Mantel the nose on the left of the boulder, from directly below.
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

The Fluting 5b
Start directly under the prominent fluting. Straight up.
Mark Buxton 7/8/08

The Dog’s Spleen
This boulder can be found just downhill from the path near some smaller boulders. The East face is the shape of a dog’s spleen. There is a bivvy underneath.

South Aręte Left 4b
SS on left of the aręte. A stiff pull then easy.
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

South Aręte Right Diff
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

Neoplastic Nose 4b
Up onto the nose via juggy tumour-like growths. Mantel.
Mark Buxton 7/8/08

Diagonal Crack 4b
An eliminate keeping hands in the crack.
Mark Buxton 23/7/07

Abscess Wall 5a
SS under the open abscesses! Up to the diagonal plaque then the rounded flake just right of the Diagonal Crack finish.
Mark Buxton 7/8/08

Plaque Wall 5a
Sit start under the lowest plaque. Pull up to the longer plaque above and up. Standing 4b.
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

There is a good but committing sit start problem above a bad landing on the West face - using a slot and rock over.

Cheese Stones
These boulders are very prominent next to the path

Pond Wall 4a
Mantel onto the heather break and finish at the pond.
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

Big Crack 4a
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

Slippery Nipple 5a
Jam the break and reach up for the ‘nipple’ on the top.
Mark Buxton 15/9/08

Top Slot 4c
Mantel using slot on top.
Mark Buxton 23/7/08


The Groove Diff
Up the groove/scoop.
Mark Buxton 23/7/08

There are some hard sit start mantels at the lower end of the slab using the bullet holes/chips.