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Ingleby Incline

 

INGLEBY INCLINE - GREENHOW BANK
OS Sheet: 99

Map Reference: NZ604039
Aspect: West Facing
Altitude: 350m
Approach Time: 45 minutes

Mini Guide: Ingleby Incline (Greenhow Bank) Mini Guide (PDF)

 

 


 

Situation and Character 

Situated in a commanding position overlooking the old railway incline, the rocks extend for several hundred metres along the western edge of Ingleby moor. The crags constitute a series of compact buttresses of clean and weathered sandstone, with many of the climbs ranking with the best in the area. Facing west, the crag enjoys any sunshine for most of the day and coupled with its quick drying nature makes for a very enjoyable place to climb. However, choose a mild and windless day as the crags open aspect make it particularly sensitive to wind where it can become unbelievably cold even in the middle of summer. These vagaries of the weather were obviously well understood by the iron stone miners on the railway as they used to call the area “Siberia”.

 

History

Although much of the crags exploration has taken place in recent years it has been surprisingly difficult to uncover its history despite searching archives and journals. It has been possible however, to group climbs within certain time periods and hopefully information will surface in time to accurately record and credit these ascents.

 

The crags first routes were climbed between 1956 and 1960 and were the combined efforts of Arthur Barker, Bill Dell, Harry Piercy and Maurice Wilson. Their routes include amongst others Signal Ridge, Cosy Corner, Hunter’s Chimney and the excellent Rack and Pinion. In 1962 armed with the latest guidebook Mike Stellings and Tony Marr repeated all the existing climbs then added Tiptoe and a variant to Signal Ridge. The pair returned in 1964 and climbed several worthwhile routes including Smoothy, and Dangle. The appearance of a new guidebook in 1970 renewed interest in the crag resulting in more than forty new routes being climbed over the following decade, but sadly first ascent details exist for only eight of those climbs. Early in 1971 Pete Whillance was the first to break new ground with his delicate Pickpocket and the very bold Ellis’s Eliminate. The most significant route of that period was the steep and very impressive Time Captain climbed in 1979 by Paul Ingham and Tony Marr. The next recorded activity was in 1984 when Steve Brown and Dave Paul dispensed with the aid on Pete Whillance’s 1971 route The Pullman, renaming it Modern Primitive. The 1990’s were also very productive, beginning in 1991 with Tony Marr’s ascent of the delightful Top Gun closely followed by Martin Parker and Francis [Monty] Montague’s bold routes Love or Confusion and Martin’s Wall. Twelve routes were climbed during 1993 of these Incline and Fall, and Primate Wardrobe Supervisor by Steve Finlay and Chris Shorter are particularly fine, closely followed by Gym Junkies and Hang Tough by Tony Marr. Several worthwhile additions were climbed in 2001 whilst checking descriptions for this guide, the best of these being Deep Impact by Tony Marr and party.             

                                                               

Access and Approaches

The best approach is by taking the Battersby road out of Ingleby Greenhow, and then take the first turning right to Bankfoot Farm. Just before the farm turn right onto the cinder track and park just before the “No Vehicular Access” sign. Proceed on foot (or bike) for 1½ miles to some cottages. Continue through a gate and up the 1 in 5 incline to the limit of the forest (gate) from where the rocks can be seen.  At present the landowner, Bass, discourages climbing between March and October. Check with the BMC for the current situation.

 

Bouldering

There are a number of large boulders just before the gate which have been explored and can provide a few hours entertainment!

More boulders can be found across the Ingleby Moor. Details here.

 

Tommy Smith enjoying a September afternoon in 2005.    Photo: Steve Crowe Jason Wood exploring the bouldering potential below the crag. Photo: Jason Wood Collection

 

 

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from right to left.

 

One Armed Buttress

This small buttress lies approximately 150m beyond the gate, close to the incline cutting and directly above a prominent boulder on the hillside.

 

1. Armed and Dangerous   4m   HVS 5b   *

Climb the delightful shallow groove in the nose of the buttress.

Tony Marr, Linda Marr 11th May1995.

 

2. One Armed Bandit   4m   HVS 5b

On the left of the nose is a slab. Climb its centre to a flat hold, move right and follow the rib.

Francis (Monty) Montague 1993.

 

The next route lies on a small buttress...

 

Two Tier Buttress

This is the small buttress found 40m to the left of One Armed Buttress.
 

2a. Fear the Smear   7m   HVD
Start on the lower tier. Climb the obvious smooth arête / corner onto the ledge. Finish up the undercut slab via the flake crack. Good fun.
Tony Marr solo. 31st August 2012


American Buttress is 60m
to the left and directly above the gate.

 

American Buttress

This buttress is defined by a large leaning block forming a chimney. Fifteen Love climbs the arête 3m right of this chimney. Heather Stomp starts 1m right of Fifteen Love.

 

2b. Heather Stomp   VD 4a ish
Start 1m right of Fifteen Love, hard mantel start using pocket on left, pad up slab to finish
Simon Hirst, Jack Skelton 26th July 2013

3. Fifteen Love   5m   VD

Start 3m right of the first chimney. Climb the arête of the leaning block.

1970s

 

4. Seven Up   5m   D

The chimney formed by the leaning block.

1970s

 

4a. Diet Pepsi   S 4c
Start up shallow groove as for Pepsi, shuffle up then mantle right and finish to the right (top of Seven Up)
Simon Hirst, Jack Skelton 26th July 2013
 

5. Pepsi   6m   HVS 5a

The wall left of Seven Up. Start up a shallow groove then trend left on letterbox holds to finish.

Tony Marr (Solo) 29th August 1993 The first of five new routes climbed that day.

 

5a. Pepsi Max   5m   E1 6a
A direct start to 'Pepsi', starting at a blind flake. Thin moves at half height provide the crux and a long reach helps.
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson 12/Jul/2012
 

6. Liberty   6m   E1 5c   *

Left of Pepsi is a thin crack in the nose of the buttress. Climb it to an interesting exit.

Tony Marr 29th August 1993 Second did not follow.

 

7. Crack and Up   5m   D

The easy chimney on the left side of the buttress.

1970s

 

30m further left is a buttress with two prominent cracks in its left side.

 

Political Buttress

 

8. Problems   5m   D

The right crack.

1970s

 

9. Communist Crack   5m   D

The left crack.

1970s

 

60m to the left lies:

 

Mac’s Buttress

 

10. Pizza Pie   5m   D

Climb the obvious chimney with a holly tree in its left wall.

1970s

 

11. Heather Crack   7m   HS

Left of Pizza Pie is a thin, heather filled crack. Not recommended!  

1970s

 

12. Hash Browns   7m   VS 5a   *

The shallow corner to the left of Heather Crack is climbed boldly to a difficult exit.

1970s

 

13. Geronimo   7m   E2 5c   *

Left of Hash Browns is a cave. Pull out of the cave onto the wall, exit via a small flake on the right.

Tony Marr 29th August 1993 Second did not follow.

 

14. Big Mac   7m   VD

Start 4m left of Geronimo. Gain the slab from the left side of the nose.

1970s

 

The next buttress is 100m to the left. A small cave at the left end of the rocks bears the inscription “Fox Hunters”.

 

Hunters Buttress

 

15. Humble Beginnings   6m   HVD

Start 3m right of the obvious corner of Chock Crack. Gain the slanting ledge and then climb the slab just right of the rib to the break, step to the left, and finish over the final block.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 18th February 2001

 

16. Tender Trap   7m   HVS 5c    *

Start 2m right of Chock Crack. Pull onto the wall then trend leftwards to gain the upper of two obvious horizontal slots, continue straight up the slab then the final block. Not without interest!

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke   18th February 2001

 

17. Chock Crack   7m   VS 4c   *

The exciting jamming crack in the corner. Well worth the effort.

Tony Marr, Eric Marr 1969

 

18. Marrakech Express  8m   HS 4b   *

Start just to the left of Chock Crack. Climb the front right-hand edge of the buttress. A bold but excellent climb that requires a positive approach. (No Protection).

Pete Whillance, spring 1971.

 

19. Deep Impact   8m   HVS 5b   *       

Start at the arête to the left of Marrakech Express. Climb the front edge of the arête moving right into a large hole in the slab, finish direct. The name could apply if you get it wrong!  No protection.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 18th February 2001.

 

19a. Soap 6m HVS 5a

Climb the steep wall between Deep Impact and Corner Crack via an undercut.

Jason Wood, Roger MacIntosh  June 2010

 

20. Corner Crack 6m   S

Climb the crack left of Chock Crack to an awkward finish.

1960s

 

21. Coumartin Slab   7m   E1 5b   *

Climb the centre of the slab left of Corner Crack. Difficulties increase with height.

Martin Parker, Francis Montague (Monty) 3rd December 1991.

Variation:   HVS 5b

Pulling leftwards just as the pocket holds run out makes for a slightly easier exit.

Tony Marr (Solo) 29th August 1993.

 

22. Block Chimney   7m   S

Start 4m left of Corner Crack. Climb over the awkward jammed block then scramble through the holly choked chimney above.

1960s

 

23. Pickpocket   8m   E1 5b   **

Climb the centre of the steep wall 2m left of Block Chimney. Sustained and without protection.

Pete Whillance Spring 1971. A fine contribution by Whillance, climbed solo.

 

24. What Planet Are You On   8m   HVS 5a

The slab 3m left of Pickpocket. Climb the undercut slab and left side of the rib past a pocket. Poorly protected.

Francis Montague (Monty) 17th February1992.

Variation:   E1 5b

Climb the right side of the rib direct. Bold and without protection.

Tony Marr 18th February 2001.

 

25. Rack and Pinion   8m   HS 4a    *

Start just right of the overhang. Step up and follow a curving ramp into the corner, step right to finish up the ridge. Good climbing, but poorly protected until the corner is reached.

Late 1950s. An excellent natural line and the hardest route climbed at that time it is unfortunate that details of the first ascent were unrecorded.

Rack and Pinion Variation Finish   VS 4c

Follow the normal route into the corner and finish straight up this.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter & Alison Shawcross, Frank Fitzgerald 6th October 1991.

                                

26. Top Gun   12m   HVS 5a   ***

A zigzag line, which starts as for Rack and Pinion. Move up left to the base of a slanting crack. A left to right rising traverse follows the crack back right, across the bullet-scarred wall, to exit just before the corner. Good climbing.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter & Alison Shawcross, Frank Fitzgerald 6th October 1991.         

Apparently the wall was used for military target practice in the 1940s

 

27. Martin’s  Wall   7m   HVS 5c

Start for Top Gun then climb directly up the wall from the start of the flake. A long reach helps!

Francis Montague (Monty) 17th February 1992

 

28. Love or Confusion   7m   E4 6b   *

Left of Top Gun is an undercut arête. Pull around the roof at a flake hold, move up and gain an obvious pocket. A difficult mantelshelf adds a spicy finishing touch.

Francis Montague (Monty), Martin Parker 6th December 1991

"Dave warburton avoided the main difficulties at about E4 6a, but on second I did it direct and it was nails. The gear is alright, but it wouldn't be a pleasant fall off the top." Franco Cookson
 

29. Hunters’ Chimney   7m   HVD

Start in the cave at the left end of the buttress. Ascend the chimney, which is awkward to start.

Maurice Wilson.  Late 1950s

 

29a Physical Graffitti   6m   E5 6c
The wall to the left of Hunters Chimney yields to a wild sequence.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 12/Jul/2012

 

40m further left the next buttress is:

 

Cleft Buttress

 

30. Helix   5m   HVS 5b

Start at the undercut wall at the right-hand end of the buttress. Pull over the sculptured overlap and trend up right to escape.

Tony Marr (Solo) 11th February 2001

 

31. Easter   5m   M

The obvious wide crack near the right hand end.

1970s

 

32. Back Lash   5m   D

Climb the slab immediately left of Easter.

Tony Marr    11th February 2001

  

33. Dog Leg Crack   5m   HD

The awkward wide crack formed by the block.

Tony Marr   11th February 2001

 

34. Brutus   7m   HVS 5b

Climb the centre of the wall pas t the obvious flake high on the wall.

Paul Ingham (solo) 23rd September 1979

                               

35. Pobble Wall   7m   VS 4c   *

The sculptured wall 2m left of Brutus, starting just right of the lowest point of the buttress.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964.

 

36. The Corner   7m   VS 4c   *

The obvious curving corner/crack at the left end of Pobble Wall is harder than it looks.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964.

 

36a. Eye Spy   6m   HD
Start 4m left of The Corner. Follow the obvious ramp to its top then climb straight up the wall to finish.
Direct Start   VD
Start 2m left of
The Corner. Climb the steepening slab to join the normal route at the top of the ramp. Both ways are enjoyable.
Tony Marr (solo). 31st August 2012
 

40m left of Cleft Buttress is a large boulder.

 

The Boulder

 

37. No Prisoners   4m   6b   *

The shallow diagonal crack to the right of I Surrender provides an interesting problem.

Tony Marr 6th August 1993.

 

38. I Surrender    5m   D

The arête on the left side of the boulder.

1970s

 

7m left is a small outcrop.

 

39. Babelogne   7m   HS

From the bottom of the slab climb left onto the arête and then trend right to the top. Very entertaining.

1970s

 

30m left is an easy slab.

 

40. Pigs on the Wing   5m   D

Ascend the centre of the slab.

1970s

 

50m left is a large buttress with a perched block on top.

 

Capstone Buttress

 

41. Sloopy   15m   VS 4c

Start below a ‘V’ groove 3m right of the overhang. Climb the wall to reach the ‘V’ groove. Ascend the groove and slabby wall above.

Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 6th July 1977

 

42. Ceasor   15m   HVS 5a

Climb up the right hand end of the overhang to the lip, traverse left for 2m then continue to the top.

1970s

 

43. Modern Primitive   15m   E3 5b   *

This route starts beneath the left end of the overhang at its widest point. Climb the roof via a crack to gain the ledge above. Move right and continue up the front of the buttress.

Pete Whillance Spring 1971. 1 pt. aid. The climb is called The Pullman.

FFA. Steve Brown, Dave Paul April 1984. Dispensing with the aid the route is re-named. 

Franco Cookson soloing Modern Primative

 

44. Black Crack   8m    S

Start in a large corner to the left of Modern Primitive. Climb the crack throughout.

1970s

Variation Finish:   VS 4b

Climb the corner until a groove on the right can be entered, follow this to exit onto the arête.

Tony Marr, Alan Taylor   6th July 1977.

 

45. Dreams   8m   VD

Climb the arête to the left of Black Crack to a ledge and continue to the top.

1970s

 

46. The Chain   5m   D

Climb the twin crack left of Dreams.

1970s

 

47. Holly Wall   7m   VD

Climb the wall 6m left of The Chain.

1970s

 

48. Holly Crack   6m   D

The crack forming the left edge of Holly Wall.

1970s

 

49. The Cleft   5m   D

The obvious wide corner 4m left of Holly Crack. Poor.

1970s

 

50. Swinger   7m   S

5m left of The Cleft. Climb the right hand side of the arête.

1970s

 

51. Twister   5m   S

Starts in a corner 3m right of the extreme left end of the rocks. Climb the crack throughout.

1970s

Variation Start   5b   *
Start 2m left of the normal route at a smooth, steep slab. Climb the slab using two obvious holes to join the normal route above a small overlap. Enjoyable problem.
Tony Marr (solo) 31st August 2012
 

The next buttress is 120m left.

 

Rowan Buttress

 

52. Wall and Slab   8m   VS 5a

Climb a tree choked crack in the wall at the right hand side of the buttress.

1970s

 

Anyone’s Daughter   E3 5c   11m
Start 2m right of Crack and Groove. Climb the rightward trending twin cracks to follow a slanting ledge further rightwards, from here launch on to the head wall via a pocket to gain the thin finger crack. Very poor RPs can be placed to protect the delicate finish and rounded top out. Good climbing but escapable just before the crux.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 6/10/2008

Five-A-Side Finish   E1 5b   11m
An alternate finish to Anyone’s Daughter trending rightwards on the final headwall after the stiff pull into the crack, finishing up Wall and Slab.
Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson 6/10/2008

 

52a. Stonemaster 10m E1 5b **

Start as for Anyone's Daughter. Climb to the start of the obvious flake/ramp. Step left and climb the rib to exit up the shallow scoop on the right. Superb climbing. Protection [mainly Friends] is spaced but good.

FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 9/08/09.Note: we climbed the following route before checking your web site. I cleaned the wall of heather and unearthed some good protection points. I was not aware of Franco's routes until later...can't understand why they didn't clean the wall...they may find their routes now slightly easier! We considered their lines but could see one was going to be hard [Anyone's Daughter], fortunately we chose a different line which I'm very happy with.

 

53. Crack and Groove   10m   S   *

Starts 5m left of Wall and Slab. Climb the thin crack and the enjoyable right-hand groove above.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964.

 

54. Wall and Groove   10m   VS 4c

Start at the toe of the buttress. Climb the delicate wall to the heather ledge. Finish up the left-hand groove.

Mike Stellings, Tony Marr 1964.

 

55. Deception   5m   VS 4c

Start just left of Wall and Groove. Move up and left to a shallow groove/slab, and final thin crack.

Tony Marr (Solo) 29th August 1993.

 

56. Next Crack   7m   D

Climb the crack 4m left of Wall and Groove.

1960s

 

56a Tyrus 7m HS 4b
Start 2m left of Next Crack [56]. Gain the break then climb the bulge via the flake. Finish direct. Awkward.
FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 9/08/09

 

57. Twin Cracks   5m   D

Starts 3m left of Next Crack. Climb the cracks sprouting a Rowan tree.

1960s

 

80m left and at a slightly higher level lies:

 

58. Puffing Billy   7m   S

The obvious hand jamming crack in the left wall of the buttress.

Pre 1961.

 

Rocket Arête 6m HVS 5b *
The left side of the arête has some nice moves and a bold finish.
Steven Phelps (solo) 14/07/2014

 

58a. Two Hoots 7m VS 5b *
Start 2m right of Choo Choo at the right side of the blunt arete. Climb onto the nose of the arete using a flake [delicate], finish up the slab. An interesting problem.
FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 13/08/09

 

59. Choo Choo   8m   S

The next climb is 10m left of Puffing Billy across a gully. Follow the meandering groove up the rounded buttress.

Pre 1961.

Variation Direct  4m  6a
Gain the slab direct to join the variation finish of Choo Choo.

 

59. Choo Choo graded Diff in the guide is actually Severe! However, a variation Diff, can be made by stepping left out of the groove at 4m and climbing the slab/arête. Poorly protected.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 13/08/09

 

60. Jet Lag   5m   D            

The chimney 20m left of Choo Choo.

1970s

 

The short wall to the right of Jet Lag has an enjoyable 5b/c problem up its centre.

 

61. Dangle   6m   HVS 5a    *

Start 14m left of Jet Lag. Climb the awkward crack in the overhang.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964. Preparing for a visit to the Peak District, the team were keen to practice their crack climbing skills; they were not to be disappointed!

 

The next climbs lie on the impressive buttress to the left of Dangle.

 

62. Primate Wardrobe Supervisor   10m    E2 5c   **

Start in a vee groove left of Dangle. Climb up to the roof, swing right to a hole then finish straight up. Bold climbing.

Steve Finlay, Chris Shorter June 1993. One of three superb climbs added to this buttress by a very strong team.

 

63. Incline and Fall   11m   E2 6a   *

Start 3m to the left of the last route at a slanting slab. Climb the slab until a move left enables the final thin crack to be followed with difficulty.

Steve Finlay, Chris Shorter June 1993.

 

64. Group 4 Factor   9m   E1 5b

Begin just left of Incline and Fall. Climb into the large hole in the slab then gain (jump for) the ledge above. Continue up the bulging arête of the buttress. Good, but escapable.

Steve Finlay, Chris Shorter June 1993.

 

The short rippled slab to the right of Chattanooga has been climbed at 5b.

 

65. Chattanooga   8m   VS 4c

Starts beneath an overhang on a small buttress 10m left of Group 4 Factor. Keep left to the skyline then up the slab to the top.

Pre 1961. Originally climbed at VD.  Upgraded since the loss of a crucial hold.

 

Greenhow Buttress

 

66. Smoothy   7m   S

Faces Chattanooga across an open gully. Climb the rounded wall direct to finish left of a prominent summit block.

Mike Stellings, Tony Marr 1964. Climbed in very windy conditions, which almost plucked the leader from the slab.

 

67. A Question of Sport   9m    HVS 5b

Starts 2m left of Smoothy, just right of an overhang. Climb the shallow scoop to a break, step right and continue up the centre of the slab.

1970s

 

68. A Matter of Taste   9m   HVS 5a

Start as for A Question of Sport, climb up to the break, step left and finish up the slab.

1970s

Direct Start:  6a

Gain the arête from the toe of the buttress. Climb the arête direct to a junction with the normal route.

Karin Magog, Steve Crowe both led 26th May 2005.

 

69. Signal Ridge   12m   HVD

Start at the lowest point of the buttress at the arête. Climb the arête mainly on its left side until the final edge, which is taken direct.

Pre 1961.

Variation Start:  4b

Climb the steep groove just right of the arête to a junction with the normal route.

Mike Stellings, Tony Marr November 1962.

 

70. Rampant   7m   VS 4c

Follows the ramp on the wall left of Signal Ridge to finish up the centre of the final wall.

Tony Marr (Solo) 23rd September 1979.

 

70a. The Pot Hole 5m HVS 5b.
Start 3m right of Saunter Slab [71], at the edge of the gully.
Climb into the large hole then exit rightwards [awkward] up the slab. No protection.
FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 19/08/09

 

71. Saunter Slab   7m   HVS 5b

 Start across the gully 3m left of Signal Ridge. Climb the centre of the slab. Poorly protected.

Tony Marr (solo) 1972.

 

72. Inclination   10m   HVS 5a

Climb the short crack 3m right of Cosy Corner followed by a shallow corner, step left and finish direct.

Tony Marr, Alison Shawcross 6th October 1991.

 

73. Cosy Corner   12m   S   ***

Start under the large overhang. Climb the short corner to a ledge. Continue up the corner to the moor.  The classic of the crag.

Pre 1961. 

 

74. Drop Out   12m   VS A2

The impressive overhang has been climbed direct by artificial means. Warning: - the in-situ bolts are in an unsafe condition. 

Rick Graham, Tony Ingram 20th June 1971. "Did this on my second visit to the crag. Tony Ingram and I had stripped a few belay bolts from the top of Scugdale we disagreed with.
We saw the line and returned to climb it armed with our booty and a rag tag assortment of Star drills, brace and (wood) bit, and ball hammers sneaked out of our dad's toolkits.
We found the first hole had already been drilled by ANO and fortunately the right diameter. The brace and bit surprisingly proved the most effective weapon especially after a bolt blew on the lip.
I tried the brace drill idea on St Bees almost twenty years later and it was hopeless.

 

75. Time Captain   12m   E3 5c   **

Start a few metres left of Cosy Corner at a short rightward facing corner. Climb the corner and short wall above to an obvious crack leading rightwards to beneath the large roof. At the roof move left around the overhang and gain the slab above by a hard move. Further hard moves should lead to the top. Bold.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr 23rd September 1979. A fine solution to the seemingly impenetrable overhang. The team were fresh with success from the previous day when they had made the first free ascent of Cleveland’s largest overhang, Wedge Route at Cringle Crag. Ingham’s comment on Time Captain; “great climbing, but it felt more like a slab route after yesterday”.

 

Paul Ingham climbing First Ascent of Time Captain in 1979.

Note modern gear! The belayer is Ken Jackson. Photos (C) Tony Marr

 

 

76. Greenhow Chimney   8m   D   **

Climb the chimney starting 10m left of Cosy Corner. Highly entertaining.

Pre 1961.

 

77. Ellis’s Eliminate   12m   E3 5c   *

Start up the outside of Greenhow Chimney. On the right wall is a horizontal ledge. Hand traverse the ledge until it runs out, make further hard moves to gain a slab and finish more easily. Bold and very poorly protected.

Pete Whillance (solo) spring 1971. A very bold and impressive ascent.

 

78. Little Chimney   5m   D

Starts just to the left of Greenhow Chimney. Climb the short crack and chimney.

Pre 1961. 

 

The buttress also has an entertaining low-level traverse, 5a.

 

79. Tiptoe   10m   5a

Starts at Cosy Corner. Traverse leftwards across the slab and around to Greenhow Chimney; now reverse it if you like.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings October 1962 both solo. Climbed whilst sheltering from a hailstorm.  

 

200m further left and slightly lower than the main edge is a short steep wall and prominent holly tree. This outcrop is:

 

Cellar Wall

Several enjoyable routes can be devised here above a good landing. The best of these are: -

Right-hand side of the right wall.   4c

Centre of the right wall.   5b

Left arête (left of the holly).    4b

All climbed during 1970s. 

 

30m left are the last two buttresses.

 

South Buttress

 

79a. Iron Horse 7m D
Start in the small alcove 4m right of Slipstream [80]. Climb the corner crack, step left to the ledge, then finish up the short wall on the right.
FA. Mike Tooke, Tony Marr 13/08/09.

79b. Black Slab 6m VS 4c * (May be the same as Wind Shaddow?)
Start 2m right of Slipsteam [80].
Climb the shallow depression up the centre of the slab to exit using a flake. [Seen on photo pg.283].
FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 13/08/09

 

79c. Wind Shadow 6m HS

The wall just right of Slipstream.

FA 24th May 2009, Simon Litchfield (Solo)

 

80. Slipstream   6m   VD

The obvious flake crack on the right side of the buttress.

1970s

 

81. South Buttress Direct   8m   HVS 5c

Start at the nose of the buttress. Climb onto the ledge, and then move up the front of the buttress using the upside down flake. Pull right to gain a spike, and then move up on sloping holds to finish. The route is strenuous but well protected.

1970s

 

Pseudo Science 6m E1 5c *
Start in the centre of the wall. Gain some jugs before finishing direct via crimps and making use of a shallow horizontal pocket near the top. A technical climb with a bold finish.
Steven Phelps (solo) 30/06/2014

Steven Phelps soloing Pseudo Science


Underdog 6m VS 5a
Gain the jugs again. From there move leftwards along a short rail to shallow pockets, finish by moving slightly left up these.
Steven Phelps (solo) 30/06/2014

 

The last significant outcrop is:

 

North Buttress

 

82. Parallels   5m   S

The obvious vertical crack in the right side of the buttress.

1970s

 

A short flake crack just to the right of Parallels gives an interesting problem   4c.

 

83. Hang Tough   6m   E2 6a   *

Start just left of Parallels. Follow a line of holds trending up leftwards. Strenuous.

Tony Marr 6th August 1993. Second did not follow.

 

84. Gym Junkies   9m   E3 6b   ***

Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb direct to the obvious finger crack splitting the roof. Pull around the roof and follow the crack until it runs out, further excitement follows to reach the top. Sustained and strenuous but well protected.

Tony Marr 6th August 1993. Second did not follow. Tony recalls, “I’d tried the line some years earlier but had failed miserably just above the roof. This time the crack went well, but the exit gave me a few anxious moments due to lichen on the final holds.”

 

85. Clarity   9m   HVS 5b

Start to the left of Gym Junkies under the roof. Climb the slab, until it is possible to pull right onto the bulging wall, and then continue up the front of the buttress.

1970s

 

85.5 Counter-Intuitively  9m   E2 5c/6a
An excellent variation climbing the flying arête right of Clarity. Climb Clarity to good holds and gear. Where Clarity trends leftwards, step right and climb the arête direct. Finish either on the right using cunning footwork to make a very long reach for a small pocket - easier for the short (6a), or on the left making a shorter reach from a hard crimp, easier for the tall (hard 5c).
FA Simon Litchfield and Al Horsfield 27th April 2009

A topo showing a more accurate line of ‘
Clarity’ in red and ‘Counter-Intuitively’ in blue.
 

 

86. Out of Time   9m   HVS 5b

Follow Time to the foot of the final crack. Step right and climb the delicate wall.

Tony Marr 6th August 1993.  Solo. The fourth and final new route that day.

 

87. Time   10m   S

Starts as for Clarity. From the slab continue up the slanting jamming crack above.

1970s

 

87a. Overtime 12m VS 5a
Start 2m left of Time [87], on the left side of the arete. Climb past the hole and up the arete. Cross the ledge and climb the obvious flake on the blunt arete 2m beyond the crack of Time. Not without interest!
FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 19/08/09

 

The outcrops further to the left provide short problems only.

 

 

 

Gallery:

 

 

Karin Magog leading

A Matter of Taste HVS 5a

Steve Crowe setting out up

Time Captain E4 5c

North Buttress  

 

 

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

Ingleby Incline (Greenhow Bank) Mini Guide (PDF)

Ingleby Moor Boulders

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