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Hudswell Crag

Details of this crag was previously recorded in North of England Rock Climbs by Stewart Wilson.

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 92

Map Reference:  154005

Aspect: North

Altitude: 140m

Approach: 10 minutes

 

Situation and Character 

Located about one mile West of Richmond in lower Swaledale on the South side of the river. Hudswell Crag is part of the same escarpment as the relatively more popular Hag Wood. The quality of the rock is variable and the finishes can be loose and dirty.

 

History

Most of the routes were climbed in the spring of 1973 by a group of Darlington-based climbers including Tony McLean, R. Gay and G.R. Davidson. Betablocker was added by Paul Carling in November 1984.

 

Access and Approaches

Follow the A6108 West out of Richmond. Just beyond the cemetery on the right and a caravan site on the left, turn off the road on the left and park in the parking place by the footbridge over the River Swale. Cross the bridge and follow a Holly hedge by a derelict wall up the hill in an upstream direction. The crag is just in woodland at the end of the field.

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

Crag Buttress

 

1. Graham’s Route   6m   S

Climb the prominent chimney at the extreme left end of the crag.

 

Three parallel crack lines are the next notable feature.

 

2. Betablocker   12m   HVS 5b

Climb the central crack to finish up a loose groove and earth bank.

Paul Carling in November 1984

 

3. Conifer Corner   12m   VD

Climb the prominent corner past a Yew tree. Finish up an easy crack and belay well back.

 

30m further right is Graffiti Cave.

 

4. Missile Groove   20m   VS 4c

Start 9m right of Graffiti Cave below a crack and groove. Climb the crack and groove and step left to pull over a block, follow the loose, Ivy-clad wall to the top.

 

5. Grey Delight   18m   VS 4b

Start at an easy corner below a cave, climb the corner to the cave then bridge until a step right can be made onto a rounded foot­hold, traverse right and move up to a ledge and tree.

 

6. Urban Gorilla   11m   S

Start 8m further right at the foot of a blunt arête. Climb the arête to the top. It is easier but inferior to start up the groove on the left.

 

7. The Main Overhang   18m   A2

Start 30m right of Urban Gorilla below the obvious roof.

 

8. White Light   21m   VS 4c

A good climb which starts to the right of The Main Overhang below a series of overhan­ging grooves. Climb twin cracks and move left to gain a ledge. Continue with difficulty to a niche beneath the final overhang, then traverse left around the arête and finish up the wall above.

 

9. Knife-Edge Groove   15m   HS

A good climb with a loose finish. Start 28m right of The Main Overhang at a prominent, flake crack. Climb the flake for 6m and traverse right to finish up a short corner.

 

 

 

 

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