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Harland Moor Crag

OS Landranger Sheet: 93

Map Reference: SE 671938
Aspect: East
Altitude: 260m
Approach: 20 minutes

Situation and Character
This venue is hidden inside Cross Plantation on the western side of Farndale. The climbing is spread out across the edge of the moor with a large buttress holding a good selection of routes up to 8 metres high and some boulder problems. The rock is excellent coarse sandstone and although the crag is surrounded by large trees, it does get some morning sun most of the year, still this is probably best avoided throughout the winter months as many climbs still suffer from lichen and generally most of them need a few dry days before a visit. A good place for top roping as there are trees above for setting up belays and this would help keep some of the routes in condition. Any boulder problems are given font grades.

Access and Approaches
Take the first left turning just north of Hutton Le Hole for 'Gillamoor', follow this for about a mile to take the first turning on the right for 'Farndale'. This takes you up onto the moor with parking at a large lay-by on your left as the road levels out. Walk north down the road and take the track going left for West Harland Farm, pass the underground reservoir and take the main track going north to a gate. About 100m past the gate take a public footpath going right as it crosses the main track, follow this until it passes closest to the woods and step over a small fence in the wall before walking down the hill to where a small gully gives the best access to the bottom of the crag. There is currently no access agreement so strictly no dogs.

About 40m south of the main buttress is another which has potential for more routes but will need a fair amount of cleaning.

On the left side of this buttress is:

Can of Worms 6b+
Follow a series of sloping ledges in the groove to the upper flake. Hand traverse or crawl off leftwards to escape.
Lee Robinson 17/08/2015

Just right of the descent gully are several short routes which get higher as the crag stretches north. All routes completed so far were soloed by Steven Phelps but there are still more to be developed.

Main Buttress

1. 3000 BC 4m S 4a
Climb the scooped wall trending leftwards to the detached block to finish.

2. Grey Wall 4m S 4a
Follow sidepulls in the centre of the wall just left of the crack.

3. Mercer's Crack 4m D
The wide flake crack throughout.

4. Dove Rib 5m HVD
Gain the ledge on the rib and follow to a slopey exit.

5. Motte and Bailey 5m S
Climb the wall starting just left of the corner. Avoid the large ledge of the next route near the top.

6. Obtrusch Corner 6m S
Bridge up the corner. Either move left at the ledge or finish as for Relic. The ledge can be dirty.

7. Relic 6m S 4a
Climb the narrow side slab using a tree root to finish.

8. Megalithic 8m HVS 5b
Start at the foot of the buttress and climb the blunt arÍte on it's right side. Finish past a sloping shelf.

9. Deira Wall 8m HVS 5b *
The scooped wall between the flake and arÍte. Make a difficult move from small pockets to gain the first of a series of horizontal breaks to start.

10. Anglo Saxon 8m HVS 5b *
Follow the blunt flake line throughout.
16/08/2014 "An excellent feature on the slab, although protection would be difficult to find that's not a hold"

11. Eternity 8m E1 5c *
Start 1m right of the last route. Move out over the cave and climb the centre of the bold slab on flakes and shallow pockets to the deep break. A long reach to a pocket or using sloping edges may bring a finish.

12. Harland Crack 8m VS 4c *
Layback out of the cave and follow the crack to the ledge. Finish by moving leftwards.

13. Native Edge 8m VS 5a
Climb the left edge of the wall passing a series of breaks. Aim for a protruding tree root before putting all your trust in it to finish.

14. Borders 8m VS 5b
Gain the ledge again. Move slightly right and climb the vague groove using the good ledge pocket and thin breaks on the wall. Finish leftwards once at the ramp.

15. Running Joke 8m HS 4b
The right edge of the wall throughout using the good holds. Finish as for the last route once at the ramp.