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Guide Corrections

 

Guide Book is now sold out. 

 

4        Contents: Recommended Crags is on page 496 not page 9 as part of the alphabetical list.

137    Anthony Quinn took the photo of Ian Priestnall on Concave Wall.
473    Steve Quinn and Sara Pavoni are climbing Roasing the Ox.

 

 

 

More Corrections for N E England Guide:

 

Beacon Scar
Route 39 called Solo Wall
Paul Ingham, Allan Taylor, Ian Dunn, All solo
 

Bridestones
Low Bridestones
Route 3 called Big Round Jugs FA Ian Dunn solo
Route 4 called Passion Play FA Ian Dunn solo
Route 6 called Accidents Will Happen FA Ian Dunn solo
Route 7 called Guano Wall FA Ian Dunn solo

 

Higher Bridestones
I did FA of all the following routes in 81/82 all solo except for Going for the One which I led!
Wrong Time of the Month
Vin Rouge
Scoop Wall
Strawberry Fields
Scarlet Pimpernel
Red Light
Little Red Robin
Hoedown
Dingly Dell
Going for the One
Northern Lights
Lucky Man
Tainted Love
Sambo Pati
Changes
Squeeze and Squirm
Turbo Charged
Ain’t No Lullaby
Wind Up
 

Broughton Bank
Called Oblique Buttress in New Climbs 1986
Class Action was called Physical FA Ian Dunn solo Jan 1983
Master Class was called In the Nick of Time

FA Steve Brown Ian Dunn Paul Ingham Johnny Adams February 1983
 

Eston Nab
Typo in history of Grandstand tey ; they
 

Garfit Quarry the central crack is worth a mention.
 

Ingleby Incline

The access directions for Ingleby Incline say to park before the 'no vehicular access' sign on the cinder track. This sign is no longer there. It is possible to drive as far as the cottages, but there is
no parking there. The recommended parking place is immediately as you turn onto the cinder track.
 

Landslip
No Expectation pegs not insitu.
Where is Snotterdale? Spider’s Eliminate and Desperandum are worth including.
 

Park Nab
Wall Bar Buttress Right Crack only is Parallel Lines as mentioned in the history.
Twister was climbed in 1982
 

Peak Scar
Kestrel has a direct finish.
FA Rick Graham Ian Dunn 1979
 

Silton Crag
Still Mine is called Delhi Belly

FA Ian Dunn Claudie Dunn Spring 1986
 

Slipstones
Wisecrack was first climbed by Ian Dunn on 14th Feb 1982 called "Shadows of the Night"
 

Wainstones
Traverse of the Gods

FA Ian Dunn Steve Brown


Whitesone Cliffe
Espeekay aid reduced to one point by Andy Parkin

 

 

 

CLIMBING IN TEESDALE/WEARDALE

By Bill Pattison

 

Here are a few notes which may be of historical interest to you re the above areas. From an old diary I have extracted details of some first ascents at the following crags.

 

TEESDALE

 

HOLWICK SCAR

 

Masters Groove  HVS            

first ascent WE Pattison & AJK Gooding 13/7/1963

 

Dexterity   VS     

First ascent WE Pattison & A Robson 13/07/63  (lies on the buttress higher up the valley faces North West.  We did several other routes on this buttress but did not record them).

 

Sarongster  HVS

first ascent WEP & A Robson   14/07/63

 

Right Escalator  VS 

first ascent WE Pattison & A Robson 14/07/63

 

Charlie’s Chimney  VD  

first ascent WE Pattison & A Robson & Charlie Thew 14/07/63

 

Stroll On  HVS

We gave it HVS! now query E2 5B  first ascent WE Pattison& AJK Gooding and A Robson  20/07/63

 

Thrombosis  HVS 

now query E2 5C first ascent WE Pattison, AGK Gooding 29/06/63

 

Kayser Bonder VS 

first ascent WE Pattison & Charlie Thew 30/06/63 

 

A low level girdle traverse starting up Charlie’s Chimney and finishing up Spiral Stairs.  The way is obvious and is never more than 5 metres above the ground except for the ascent of Bishops Chimney and the decent of Chimney and Slab.

 

Almost all of the other routes by combinations of WE Pattison, AJK Gooding, Charlie Thew , Angus Robson, Dave Thompson, Bill McCrickard, Bob Tibbett and others of the Yackley Club.

 

GOLDSBOROUGH CARR

In 1963/4 Yackley Club climbed most of the obvious lines, because of the brevity did not name them.  We also new of Bentley Beethams many visits earlier.

 

CAT CASTLE

Again most obvious lines were climbed in 1963 – 4.  I did the first ascent of Black Cat but my second on that day declined to follow.

 

JACK SCAR

Most obvious lines climbed here in 1963-1964 as well as exploring the cave as far as we could go by WE Pattison, A Robson, AJK Gooding and J Moore.

 

PALLET CRAG

Kirmitt HVS first ascent AJK Gooding and WE Pattison 6/06/63

Most of the obvious lines climbed by the Yackley Club climbed around that time.

The bolt on the left of the crag was placed by Tom Redfern.

 

COTHERSTONE CRAG

Most routes done by the Yackley Club roundabout June 1963.  Lots of rotten tree branches loose rock dead leaves and vegetation were removed.

 

CRONKLEY SCAR

MAP REF; 853286

A  large buttress just above Tarn Dub gave a dozen or so good routes some of two pitches.  All my route notes were sent to Stew Wilson in 1992 but he never acknowledge receipt of them.  WE Pattison, John Moore and Colin Haithe did most of the routes 1950 – 1952.

 

Further routes were done on a buttress facing Falcon Clints query 834284 going back many years later I found them to be quite hard.  Another little buttress at query 844293 gave a nice route at about dif standard.

 

THE FAIRY GLEN

This lies on Rowton Beck 913263.

A lovely little picnic spot with several small buttresses used for soloing.

 

BOLDRON QUARRIES

Many routes done here mainly on the south side of the A66 , quite hard lines which may have disappeared due to quarrying since the sixties.

 

EGGLESTON GORGE

A couple of lines climbed here in the sixties.

 

CRAG HILL

Myself and Geoff Brailsford bouldered here on a few occasions in the 1960’s and 70’s .

 

HIGH CUP NICK

A few routes were done here in the 1960’s and 70’s by myself and Geoff Brailsford.  We also explored the escarpments running parallel with the A66 such as Roman Fell, Middle Fell and Helbeck areas.  In the 1960’s and 70’s there were lots of shells lying around and climbing here was a bit scary! As well as obvious access problems.

 

WHITE FORCE

On Skyer Beck was a favourite winter venue as was the right hand fall on High Force.

 

 

 

WEARDALE

 

STANHOPE DEAN

The old quarry here provided a few hard routes none of which we named but I remember having to manoeuvre a cars headlights onto the face to help Gus Robson finish a route.  At the top of The Dean or approached from Crawley Side 995414 follow a little green track down into The Dean to a superb little quarry were we spent many happy hours bouldering.

 

HARTSOP & LANGDON FELLS QUARRIES

We tried and sometimes managed to get up lines in the quarries both summer and winter with various degrees of success, but again did not record any lines.  Our regular meeting spot was Westerton Quarry were we spent many happy hours before retiring to the pub.

 

All the routes we attempted and climbed were climbed on sight with no previous inspection or top roping allowed.

 

I hope this information if of use and interest to you if you should need any clarification or help please get in touch.  Much of the information is from memory but hopefully still accurate.

 

Bill Pattison MBE