Guide Book is now sold out.
4 Contents: Recommended Crags is on page 496 not page 9 as part of the alphabetical list.
Quinn took the photo of Ian Priestnall on Concave Wall.
More Corrections for N E England Guide:
FA Steve Brown
Ian Dunn Paul Ingham Johnny Adams February 1983
the central crack is worth a mention.
directions for Ingleby Incline say to park before the 'no vehicular access' sign
on the cinder track. This sign is no longer there. It is possible to drive as
far as the cottages, but there is
FA Ian Dunn
Claudie Dunn Spring 1986
FA Ian Dunn Steve Brown
CLIMBING IN TEESDALE/WEARDALE
By Bill Pattison
Here are a few notes which may be of historical interest to you re the above areas. From an old diary I have extracted details of some first ascents at the following crags.
Masters Groove HVS
first ascent WE Pattison & AJK Gooding 13/7/1963
First ascent WE Pattison & A Robson 13/07/63 (lies on the buttress higher up the valley faces North West. We did several other routes on this buttress but did not record them).
first ascent WEP & A Robson 14/07/63
Right Escalator VS
first ascent WE Pattison & A Robson 14/07/63
Charlie’s Chimney VD
first ascent WE Pattison & A Robson & Charlie Thew 14/07/63
Stroll On HVS
We gave it HVS! now query E2 5B first ascent WE Pattison& AJK Gooding and A Robson 20/07/63
now query E2 5C first ascent WE Pattison, AGK Gooding 29/06/63
Kayser Bonder VS
first ascent WE Pattison & Charlie Thew 30/06/63
A low level girdle traverse starting up Charlie’s Chimney and finishing up Spiral Stairs. The way is obvious and is never more than 5 metres above the ground except for the ascent of Bishops Chimney and the decent of Chimney and Slab.
Almost all of the other routes by combinations of WE Pattison, AJK Gooding, Charlie Thew , Angus Robson, Dave Thompson, Bill McCrickard, Bob Tibbett and others of the Yackley Club.
In 1963/4 Yackley Club climbed most of the obvious lines, because of the brevity did not name them. We also new of Bentley Beethams many visits earlier.
Again most obvious lines were climbed in 1963 – 4. I did the first ascent of Black Cat but my second on that day declined to follow.
Most obvious lines climbed here in 1963-1964 as well as exploring the cave as far as we could go by WE Pattison, A Robson, AJK Gooding and J Moore.
Kirmitt HVS first ascent AJK Gooding and WE Pattison 6/06/63
Most of the obvious lines climbed by the Yackley Club climbed around that time.
The bolt on the left of the crag was placed by Tom Redfern.
Most routes done by the Yackley Club roundabout June 1963. Lots of rotten tree branches loose rock dead leaves and vegetation were removed.
MAP REF; 853286
A large buttress just above Tarn Dub gave a dozen or so good routes some of two pitches. All my route notes were sent to Stew Wilson in 1992 but he never acknowledge receipt of them. WE Pattison, John Moore and Colin Haithe did most of the routes 1950 – 1952.
Further routes were done on a buttress facing Falcon Clints query 834284 going back many years later I found them to be quite hard. Another little buttress at query 844293 gave a nice route at about dif standard.
THE FAIRY GLEN
This lies on Rowton Beck 913263.
A lovely little picnic spot with several small buttresses used for soloing.
Many routes done here mainly on the south side of the A66 , quite hard lines which may have disappeared due to quarrying since the sixties.
A couple of lines climbed here in the sixties.
Myself and Geoff Brailsford bouldered here on a few occasions in the 1960’s and 70’s .
HIGH CUP NICK
A few routes were done here in the 1960’s and 70’s by myself and Geoff Brailsford. We also explored the escarpments running parallel with the A66 such as Roman Fell, Middle Fell and Helbeck areas. In the 1960’s and 70’s there were lots of shells lying around and climbing here was a bit scary! As well as obvious access problems.
On Skyer Beck was a favourite winter venue as was the right hand fall on High Force.
The old quarry here provided a few hard routes none of which we named but I remember having to manoeuvre a cars headlights onto the face to help Gus Robson finish a route. At the top of The Dean or approached from Crawley Side 995414 follow a little green track down into The Dean to a superb little quarry were we spent many happy hours bouldering.
HARTSOP & LANGDON FELLS QUARRIES
We tried and sometimes managed to get up lines in the quarries both summer and winter with various degrees of success, but again did not record any lines. Our regular meeting spot was Westerton Quarry were we spent many happy hours before retiring to the pub.
All the routes we attempted and climbed were climbed on sight with no previous inspection or top roping allowed.
I hope this information if of use and interest to you if you should need any clarification or help please get in touch. Much of the information is from memory but hopefully still accurate.
Bill Pattison MBE