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Goldsborough

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 92

Map Reference: NY954176

Aspect: North and South Facing

Altitude: 350m

Approach Time: 5 minutes

Goldsborough Mini Guide (Acrobat Reader Required)
 

History

There are no records of the early development of Goldsborough. It is known that Bentley Beetham climbed here regularly during the 1930s, bringing parties of pupils from his Barnard Castle School. The adventures of the Goldsborough Club, as they were known, are recorded in the Fell and Rock guides to the Lake District. Most of the easier routes were recorded by members of the Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s during work on the first edition of the "North of England Rock Climbing Guide". Climbers from Barnard Castle were also active, in particular Paul Carling and Nigs Reader. Motivation was climbed by Reader in 1980, while Carling recorded many testing problems including Enigma, The Thornbird and Long Reach all prior to 1982. Ian Cummins added the bold Green Nigel in 1983 and Nick Clement climbed The Obsessed and Viola. During the mid 1980s Ian Cummins climbed the Footless Traverse on Thin Wall Buttress. Stu Ferguson climbed Flymantle on the North Facing section; Steve Crowe added the more serious variation. Bob Bennett, Steve Crowe and Mark Turner added many new problems while working on the first edition of Climbing in North East England.

Bob Bennett began developing the North East Boulders during 1995 with about 15 problems added by spring 1996. Steve Crowe recorded a number of traverses during the winter of 1995/96 including Askew and Upper Break, although it is possible they were climbed before. Due to bad fingers/work/kids/staleness etc., Ian Cummins had kept a low profile for 5-6 years before surfacing in 1997 to report the hardest problems at Goldsborough to date. Beth’s Traverse from July 1996 and George’s Roof climbed in July 1997 both are very hard but reasonably safe. Andrew Earl traversed the Super Low Level on the Thin Wall Buttress in January 1997 and Steve Dunning extended this in 2001. Dunning added three desperate combinations, Something Burning, Second Coming and Juxtapose around this time. In April 2002 Ian Cummins made the long overdue ascent of Holstein Friesian.

 

Situation and Character

A Pennine gritstone outcrop. The rock is of good quality in a pleasant situation overlooking Hury and Blackton reservoirs in the shallow valley of Baldersdale. The crag has both North and South facing aspects around a small, rising, moor land summit. Although exposed to any wind, it is quick drying, as it does not suffer from any drainage or seepage. The crag does enjoy visits all year round but it is more comfortable from early spring to late autumn. A pad may prove more useful than ropes at this crag as soloing appears to be the norm however many of the routes do offer placements for protection and there are belay stakes at the top.

 

Access and Approaches

From the direction of Barnard Castle (the East) follow the B6277 to just past Cotherstone then take a minor road left, signposted to East Briscoe. Follow this road for 4 - 5 miles passing the Hury reservoir on the right after 3 miles and continue through one or two gates and finally over a cattle grid when the crag will appear up on the left.

Alternatively from the West or North, pass through the village of Romaldkirk and take a right turn signposted Hunderthwaite. After about two miles take a left turn signposted Baldersdale (South) and follow it down a steep hill, across the front of the reservoir dam, up to a sharp hairpin junction. Turn right. Follow this road through the gates, (as for the previous approach), when the crag will soon be visible up on the left. Park off the road where the public footpath leads across the moor towards the crag in about 5 minutes.

 

The Grades

Font grades have been used for boulder problems.

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

South West Face

 

Enigma Buttress

The first buttress seen when approaching over the moor from the west end of the north facing section is mainly southwest facing. The first climb encountered on the south facing section is a short but distinctive aręte at the left end of a short clean wall.

 

1. The Swaledale Morris Men 3m Font 3

Climb the left hand aręte. A one-move wonder.

Another Smartboys production

 

2. Y-Crack 3m Font 2

Take the Y-shaped crack at the left hand end of the buttress.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

3. Finger Crack 4m Font 4 **

The crack just right of Y-Crack is climbed with an insecure finger lock at the top.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

4. System of a Brown 4m Font 6b

This is an eliminate, avoiding the block in the base of the chimney and also the crack, which is pretty much out of reach anyway.

Ian Cummins Summer 2002

 

5. Ravock Chimney 4m Font 3

The V-chimney just right of Finger Crack, with an awkward start.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

6. Go Ahead, Make my Hay 4m Font 6b

An eliminate that climbs the groove just left of the aręte of In Search of Cheap Bananas. Keep out of that chimney.

Ian Cummins 2002

 

7. In Search of Cheap Bananas 4m Font 6c

Climb the aręte just to the left of the Enigma groove. Thin, hard and excellent.

Ian Cummins 2002

 

8. Enigma Direct 4m Font 6b

A direct start straight up the groove - good.

Ian Cummins 2002

 

9. Enigma 6m Font 6a **

The original line right of Ravock Chimney. Pull onto the wall on the right of the groove which is then entered with difficulty and followed to the top, or more easily... continue to use the right aręte all the way to the top - this is Old Moss.

Paul Carling prior to 1982

 

10. Old Moss 4m Font 5+ **

Starts as Enigma but climb straight up the wall.

 

11. Cotherstone Reiver 4m Font 5 **

Gain the foothold on the wall left of Corner Crack by a precarious layback move and reach gingerly for the top.

 

12. Corner Crack 4m Font 2

Corner Crack appears to get slightly wider every year.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

13. Holstein Friesian 4m Font 6a+

Thin moves up the obvious faint groove. Despite being only three moves, starting off the ledge makes it a bit scary! 

Paul Smith 1980s

 

14. Flake and Crack 6m Font 3 *

Takes the obvious flake leaning against the buttress and the steep crack above.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

15. The Crack Direct 5m Font 4

Start just behind the flake. Climb up to and gain the crack of Flake and Crack. If you touch the flake come down and start again.

 

 

Hubris Buttress

The next problem starts just around the aręte to the right on the south face of this first buttress.

 

16. Hubris 5m Font 6a+ **

A hard start leads to a bold finish. Pull round the overhang right of Flake and Crack, get established on the wall above with difficulty and finish straight up.

 

17. Cenopod Corner 5m Font 2

Take the wide crack in the corner, right of the overhang of Hubris.

 

18. Saturnalia 5m Font 5

Thin moves up the wall on the right of Cennapod Corner above an unwelcome landing.

 

19. Ian’s Aręte 5m Font 7a

Climbs the obvious aręte with a chip/notch. Easily up to the ledge and then up the aręte on its right side. Tricky, quite high and a bit gritty too!

Ian Cummins September 2000

 

Around the end of this buttress on its southeast corner are twin cracks, the left one gives...

 

20. Hunder Crack 6m Font 3 *

Climb the left hand crack and broken wall above.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

21. Crawlaw 5m S Font 3

Start up the right hand crack then move right and hand traverse the block finishing at a short corner.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

21a. Fats' Dyno and Mantle Font 6a

From the holds at the back of the roof under Crawlaw, up to the top above the blunt aręte. Beached whale over the top. Highly morpho.
Alex Baker 22/Apr/2006

 

The outcrop is discontinuous for the next 25m then improves to give a small buttress with jutting overhangs and a small bay on the right. Just below this buttress is a large boulder, which is undercut at its right hand end (facing the main crag), with the following two problems.

 

22. Indian Summer 3m Font 3

Make a long reach for a good hold, then mantelshelf to finish.

 

23. Long and Hot 6m Font 6a

Start lying down well left of Indian Summer traverse right to finish up Indian Summer.

 

 

Yoke Buttress

 

24. Mawman 6m Font 3

Climb the left hand aręte with a difficult start, gain a ledge and finish up the wall above. The SS is hard Font 6c.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

25. Stewart’s Wall 6m Font 5+

An eliminate up the centre of the short wall just right of Mawman, past an overlap to finish direct.

 

26. Yoke Sike 6m Font 4 *

Climb the corner just right of Mawman, pull over the small roof and ascend the wall above. The SS is Font 5+.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

27. Yoke Siddle 7m Font 5

Start up the right aręte of Yoke Sike then hand traverse right to finish up the wall of Yawd Sike.

 

28. Yawd Sike 6m Font 3

Start 2m right of Yoke Sike. Climb the reachy wall direct to the top.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

29. Brown Rigg Flake 4m Font 2

Climb the flaky crack at the back of the bay.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

30. Brown Rigg Wall 4m Font 2

Start 1m left of the easy descent chimney/gully. Straight up the wall at the back of the bay.

The next two larger buttresses provide the major climbs at Goldsborough. Both buttresses are severely undercut and the first few moves off the ground are usually the hardest. There are some excellent problems on some top quality gritstone, which are often soloed although a rope may prove useful on first acquaintance.

 

 

Thornbird Buttress

 

31. Bottle Wall 5m Font 3

Climb the narrow pillar immediately right of the easy descent chimney.

 

32. Bottle Crack 6m Font 2

A poor climb which takes the wide crack at the extreme left hand end of Thornbird Buttress to a scrappy, loose finish.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

33. Motivation Left Hand 7m Font 6a

Takes a line up the right hand side of the west face of Thornbird Buttress, just to the left of the aręte. Make a hard pull up to a juggy break followed by a long reach leftwards. Continue straight up the wall.

 

34. Motivation 7m Font 5+

Start just to the left of the aręte. Make a hard pull up to a juggy break followed by a long reach rightwards to become established on the wall. Continue straight up or pull right and finish up the aręte.

Nigs Reader 1980

 

35. The Obsessed 8m Font 6c

(Hand traverse right from the start of Motivation). Climb the aręte direct, in its entirety.

Nick Clement

 

36. Viola 11m Font 6b

Start as for The Obsessed to gain the aręte then continue a heel-hooking traverse of the lip from the aręte to finish up Fiddler on the Roof.

Nick Clement

 

37. George’s Roof 11m Font 7b

A desperate direct start to The Obsessed. Start under the roof at the back and climb the roof to gain a good hold on the lip. (Continue up the aręte as for The Obsessed for the Font 7c tick).

 

38. Fiddler on the Roof 10m E1 5c **

A good line where a slanting crack breaks across the lip of the buttress. Go up to the roof and cross to good holds on the lip. There is a good foot lock if you can find it? Pull over strenuously, relax, and then cruise up the pleasant wall above.

Dave Bowen prior to 1980

 

39. Clute 10m E4/5 6c

This problem, to the right of Fiddler on the Roof, is based on crossing the overhang by using the two small fragile pockets in the middle of the roof. A spotter is essential while working these desperate moves. If you gain the lip move slightly left into the groove and follow this to the top.

Paul Smith 1980s

 

The next two routes enjoy bold unprotected starts, which lead to bolder but slightly easier (when clean) finishes.

 

40. The Thornbird 10m E2 6a **

Start 7m right of Fiddler on the Roof. Climb onto a ledge below the roof. Make some awkward reaches round the roof trending right on poor holds to eventually reach a good jug. Continue directly up the wall to a faint crack line running up the steepest part of the buttress. Pull round the bulge at the crack line and finish steeply above.

Paul Carling prior to 1982

 

41. Green Nigel 13m E2 6a

This worthwhile route is much more than a variation finish to The Thornbird. Pull around the roof to the good hold, as for Thornbird, and then follow the ramp-line leftwards to finish, delicately, straight up to the left of the green seepage line.

Ian Cummins 1983

 

42. The Long Reach 10m Font 6b+ **

A good problem - if you have the reach. Impossible if you don’t. Start right of Thornbird; gain the undercut aręte left of Legless. Powerful laybacking might lead to a long reach and then the ledge! Continue up the overhanging aręte above.

Paul Carling prior to 1982

 

43. Legless 10m Font 6b

A climb of two distinct halves. Tackle the short bottomless groove with difficulty to reach a grass ledge. Reach a jug just right of the aręte. Pull onto the wall and climb to good finishing holds.

 

43a. Clamp Master Font 7b+

Start at the back of the roof using a good (often damp) jug on the right lip and feet on the block. A big move to a good hold in the roof leads to desperate moves and a finish up Legless.

Tom Newman

 

44. Tute Crack 7m S (Font 3)

At the right end of the buttress are three short cracks. Climb the left hand one to a ledge and finish up a small, steep corner above.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

 

The Alcove

This wall is set back slightly.

 

45. Yale 5m Font 3+

Start up the right of three short cracks and continue straight up the wall above. Start just right of the crack for a 4c tick.

 

46. Lock Out 5m Font 4+

Climb the undercut base just left of the centre and the steep wall above on good holds, which are not without suspicion.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

47. Borstal Breakout 6m Font 6a+

Three metres right of Lockout, climb the undercut base and finish up the wall above.

 

48. Loups Aręte 6m Font 4+

Gain the undercut corner on the right of the buttress and follow it more easily to the top.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

The wall to the right, Loups Wall, can be climbed at Font 5.

 

Two low level traverses are possible across The Alcove.

 

49. The Alcove Circuit 16m Font 5

Start below Loups Aręte and traverse leftwards on the lowest break. Pull over the roof at the left end and traverse back rightwards with feet on the ledge below the roof. Either step off or continue up Borstal Breakout.

 

 

Thin Wall Buttress

 

50. Maggie’s Wall 5m Font 2

Climb the left facing, or west, wall of this undercut buttress following the easiest line. Start from the ledge.

 

51. Topal’s Wall 5m Font 3+

From the edge of the ledge reach right to gain the wall, continue more easily to finish just left of the aręte. A difficult bolder problem start is also possible from the lower ground level, this is...

 

52. Rock Art 6m Font 7c

The wrinkled wall left of Fiddler’s Wall. Small sloping holds and technical knee and toe work.

Ian Cummins 2005

 

53. Fiddler's Wall 6m Font 6c+

The wall left of Fiddlers Aręte is climbed direct. A few difficult moves soon lead to easier ground.

Nick Clement

 

54. Pessimist Font 7c/7c+

Starting in the middle of nowhere on the good flake make a hard slap to the slopers on the lip. Finish by traversing rightward on slopers before exiting up Fiddler’s Aręte.

The true start avoids the contorted foot lock.

 

55. Fiddler's Aręte 6m E1 5b (Font 5) **

Climb the western aręte of the buttress in its entirety, the crux being a fingery pull up.

Stew Wilson prior to 1980

 

56. Fiddler Aręte Sit Start Font 6c

SDS. From the wobbly jugs traverse rightwards on slopers to the aręte. Finish up Fiddler’s Aręte.

 

57. Fiddler 8m HVS 5a (Font 5) *

Start just to the right of the aręte. Pull up on to the undercut wall using good handholds then pockets. Step left, climb delicately up the wall then move left to good holds and a ledge on the left hand aręte. Finish up the aręte.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

58. Fiddler Direct 6m E1 5b (Font 5+) *

Start as for Fiddler, but instead of moving left to the aręte continue straight up the wall above. Committing.

 

59. Barney Boys 7m E2 6a (Font 6a+) *

A prominent ledge runs right of Fiddler. Gain its left hand end by an awkward mantelshelf then move up boldly using a very small crescent shape layaway. Finish on the right hand side of the blunt nose of Fiddler Direct.

Nick Clement 1986

 

60. The Scoop 6m E2 6b (Font 6b) *

Enter the shallow scoop to the right of the ledge. Continue straight up more easily.

Nick Clement 1986

 

61. Confectionary Debris Font 7c ***

Climbs the often tried blank looking wall between The Scoop and Thin Wall Special .

Ian Cummins August 2003

 

62. Thin Wall Special 6m E2 5c (Font 6a) *

Pull up to gain the thin crack with a powerful lock off. An awkward laybacking sequence leads to rounded holds and then more easily to the top.

 

62a. G-String   VS 5a

A girdle traverse starts on the block of Maggie’s Wall and hand traverse right along the break to pull up awkwardly around the aręte. Continue traversing right finishing diagonally up right, above the thin crack of Thin Wall Special.

 

63. Jumping Jack Flash 6m E2 6a (Font 6a+)

The overhanging eastern aręte of the buttress. An awkward reachy start on flat holds leads hopefully to a jug on the lip. Swing up strenuously and follow the wall above on rounded holds to the top.

 

64. Low Level traverse 15m Font 7a ***

A low level traverse of the buttress. Start left of Fiddlers Aręte and hand traverse/heel hook the lowest break of the buttress to finish up Jumping Jack Flash.

 

65. Super Low Level traverse 15m Font 7b **

An eliminate based on the previous traverse. Hands below the lowest break, feet anywhere, to finish up Jumping Jack Flash.

Andrew Earl 25th January 1997

 

66. Something Burning Font 8a

Traverse the Super Low Level starting under the roof left of Fiddler on appalling slopers and finishing by reversing Beth’s Traverse. Reachy!

Steve Dunning Late 2000 (I think)

 

67. Second Coming Font 8b

Cross the roof direct two feet right of Fiddler Aręte via some very poor edges. Then traverse the Super Low Level to the right aręte and finish up Jumping Jack Flash).

Steve Dunning

 

68. Juxtapose Font 8a

A right to left traverse starting with Beth’s Traverse, then reverse the Super Low Level lip traverse and finish up Fiddlers Wall.

Steve Dunning

 

69. The Footless Traverse Font 7b

Gain the jug on Jumping Jack Flash – Footless – then footless all the way back down, left to Fiddler Aręte and then up this footless to finish on the top.

Ian Cummins mid 1980s

 

70. Holeshot Font 7c

A long problem. Crouching start at the back of the roof near Beth’s Traverse at two small flakes.  Out to reach the footholds of Beth’s Traverse. Make a big move up and left to the aręte and finish as for Jumping Jack Flash.
Ian Cummins May 2000

 

71. Beth’s Traverse Font 7b+

Start sitting in the back of the cave right of Jumping Jack Flash at a block scar. Reach out to the finger traverse line and follow across the roof/steep wall. Finish up Jumping Jack Flash. Very sustained.

Ian Cummins

 

72. Prelude Font 7c+

Start about 4m right of the original at the ledge. A bit eliminate in nature as you keep your feet above the blocky strata on the solid rock. Generally decent fingerholds, but very difficult footwork, with a nasty drop across onto the good hold at the start of Beth’s Traverse, finish up this.

Ian Cummins May 2005

 

73. Unnamed Font 6c+

SDS. From the double crimp make thin moves up and right to finish below the roof. Jump off from here as the rock is very fragile! Avoid the large flat hold within the fresh rock scar as this hold recently broke!

 

74. Love Spreads Font 8a/8a+

Link Holeshot into a reverse of Beths Traverse before finish up Unnamed.

 

 

Baldersdale Buttress

 

75. Plagiarist LH 5m Font 6a

The left aręte can be climbed using the small pocket and reaching up left, continue up the aręte.

 

76. Plagiarist 5m Font 6a *

Step off a block at the left of the buttress and using the same small pocket and undercut, reach right for the break and then to an awkward exit rightwards.

 

77. This Ones for Bill Font 7a

Stretch up the blank looking wall between The Plagiarist and Bass Special.

Ryan Plews April 2004

 

78. Bass Special 5m Font 4+ *

Takes the overhang and cracks immediately left of the overhanging scoop. A sitting start is 5+.

 

78a. Ice Cream Special  Font 5

Linking the start of The Scream into the finish of Bass Special.

 

78b. Scoop Font 6c+

Traversing the lowest part of the scoop before joining Bass Special is much harder.

 

79. Scream 5m Font 6a

Climb the overhanging scoop between the aręte of Bass Special and the obvious ledge on Baldersdale Ale, a sitting start using the ledge for hands and the right foot (leg!) only.

 

80. Baldersdale Ale 5m Font 3

Climbs the wall above the ledge, just right of Scream.

 

81. The Balder 5m Font 3

Start from the ledge of Baldersdale Ale and make a high level hand traverse leftwards to finish up the aręte, or continue traversing to finish past Plagiarist.

 

 

South East Boulder

 

82. Tidal Force    2m Font 5+

SS. Further up the slope a hard start leads to an easier finish.

Steve Crowe May 2002

 

83. The Ups 2m Font 6a

SS. The wall just left of the groove is the hardest to top out.

Steve Crowe May 2002

 

84. The Ups 2m Font 6a+

SS. The wall just right of the groove.

 

85. The South East Boulder 6m Font 6a

A few paces to the southeast is a scrappy looking boulder just below the path. Try the rising traverse of the slopers on the top of the southwest face for a sustained 6a warm up. Starting the traverse around the corner at the good hold on the southeast face is more difficult, Font 6b.

 

86. The Tide is Turning 6m Font 6c

Using crimps from a sitting start at the aręte and cross the wall below the top provides a stern crimping test piece.

Karin Magog May 2002

 

87. Low Water Mark 6m Font 7a

The lower traverse line below The Tide is Turning. Start at the same hold on the aręte, but span left and follow the low line of holds independent of the higher route and also more sustained.

Ian Cummins 2002

 

88. The Spring Tide 9m Font 7a+

Start with your hands on top of the boulder just before this breaks into a sloping seam. Follow this leftwards eventially dropping down to gain the starting holds of The Tide is Turning. Follow this to the end.

Ian Cummins

 

89. Ebb and Flow 24m Font 7a

The full traverse of the South East Boulder.

Steve Crowe 29th October 2003

 

 

Diagonal Buttress

The next buttress has two prominent diagonal cracks running across the front face, rising from left to right. The right face is an easy angled slab of little interest. The first two problems are on the short overhanging left wall.

 

90. Askew 5m Font 5

Sit as far left as possible then traverse rightwards along the lip of the boulder, from the knee lock on the ledge reverse Gap Factor Nine, then continue across the front face as for Upper Break.

Steve Crowe 27th February 1996

 

91. Adverse Camber 2m Font 6a

Mantelshelf over the centre of the left face without using the obvious chipped holds. A one-move wonder.

 

92. Gap Factor Nine 4m Font 3

Start at the left aręte. Trend slightly right and up then a difficult move back left to finish.

 

93. Upper Break 6m Font 2+

A rising left to right traverse of the upper break, more difficult than it looks.

Steve Crowe 18th November 1995

 

94. Diagonal Crack 6m Font 3

Hand traverse the lower crack from left to right.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

95. Diagonal Direct 4m Font 3

Ascend the centre of the face to an awkward sloping mantelshelf finish.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

96. Milk Snatcher 5m Font 5

There is a small foot ledge at thigh height, right of diagonal direct. Gain this with difficulty using small flakes, step left and up to the ledge above. The sitting start is Font 6a.

 

97. Kel’s Problem 5m Font 5+

Climb the wall just left of the right edge using a bullet scar to pull onto the wall. The sitting start is Font 6a.

 

98. Ricochet 3m Font 4

Take the undercut right hand aręte. Slap up from rounded handholds to an easy finish. A sitting start makes it Font 4+.

 

99. Right to Left Traverse 6m Font 6a

From a sitting start just right of Ricochet traverse left keeping low down until around the aręte. Make a hard move up using the positive bullet scar then continue left to move up as for Milk Snatcher then move more easily around the aręte to finish as for Adverse Camber.

 

100. Seven Year Old Solo   3m   D

The shallow grove to the right.

 

Goldsborough North Side Boulders

The North Side Boulders can be divided into two sections, the northeastern and the northern. Continue contouring around to the north from Diagonal Buttress and below the small Eastern Wall, to where the first cluster of boulders will appear. At the most easterly point two or three large slabs of rock are scattered with impressive lips that can be traversed. The Northern Boulders are separated from the Northeast group by a 75m swath of grassland.

 

North East Boulders

Contouring the moor from Diagonal Buttress a small east-facing wall is approached immediately before the first cluster of boulders. This has a standard and low-level traverse.

 

 

1. Eastern Wall

 

1. Hands on Top   Font 4+

Traverse the wall with hands on the top.

 

2. Hands Below   Font 6a+

Traverse the wall with hands below the top.

 

 

2. The Thin Seam Bloc

There are two prominent slabs of rock below and North East of the Eastern Wall.

 

3. Abutment   Font 4+

Mantel from a sitting start.

 

4. Brow   Font 6a+ *

Start underneath the boulder and pull round via

a shallow scoop to top out.

 

5. Comminution   Font 5

Traverse L-R from underneath the boulder to top

out.

 

6. The Thin Seam Font 6b+ *

Start underneath and reach out to gain good crimps. Follow the thin seam rightwards until it fades. Reach up to the lip and continue to finish as for the previous traverse.

 

7. Drift   Font 6a *

Traverse L-R along the top of the boulder to top out in the same place.

 

 

3. No Deal Bloc

The right-hand slab shows signs of chipping dating back to when this area was quarried for mill wheels. There are three prominent holds on the north face two are chipped with another similar crimp just left.

 

8. First Mantel   Font 5

The first mantel problem uses the left pair of three holds from a sit start.

 

9. Second Mantel   Font 6a *

The second mantel problem uses the right pair of three holds from a sit start under the roof.

 

10. The Nose Font 5+

Mantel onto the boulder from a standing start at the aręte.

 

11. West Face Triple   Font 5

The west face can be climbed from a sitting start in three places. All three for the tick!

 

12. Banker   Font 6a *

Traverse L-R along the top of the boulder to top out.

 

13. No Deal Font 7a **

Traverse L-R along the line of chipped holds and edges below the top to mantle at the far end.

Andy Earl

 

14. Velvet Morning Font 6c

SDS. An eliminate R-L traverse avoiding the top lip. Start as far right as possible eventually joining the reverse of No Deal. Finish up the aręte as for .

 

 

4. Detached Boulder

About 10m west is a larger detached boulder just in front of the main escarpment.

 

15. Around the Block Font 7a **

Starting low on the west wall a sustained traverse rises up the wall. The south face is traversed low, under the roof, then down the east face to the final crux moves to regain the west face.

Steve Crowe

 

15a. The Left Aręte   Font 5

SS. The left aręte.

 

 

Boulder Five

The next buttress is behind the large detached boulder. It is undercut and has a square front.

 

16. Firth of Fifth  Font 5 *

The large undercut left aręte.

 

17. After the Ordeal   Font 5

The front face without use of either aręte.

 

 

Boulder Six

The next buttress has a single, undercut, sharp aręte.

 

18. Nowhere Man   Font 4

The wall on the east face.

 

19. Wait   Font 5

Directly up the sharp aręte. Care with first hold.

 

20. Run for Your Life   Font 4

The west face starting 3m right of the aręte.

 

 

Boulder Seven

The next boulder is larger with a good west wall and a sustained "Circular" traverse.

 

21. Moonchild   Font 4

The short left aręte. Start on the right and finish up the left side.

 

22. Infinite Dreams   Font 5+

A rising L-R traverse with a sitting start and finishing up the right most problem.

 

23. Can I play with madness?    Font 5 *

The next aręte right can be climbed direct.

 

24. The Evil that Men Do   Font 5

The wall between the aręte and the next rib.

 

25. The Prophecy   Font 5 *

A fine problem up the blunt rib on the west face.

 

26. The Clairvoyant   Font 4

The centre of the wall, right of the rib.

 

27. The Sheep Pit Font 3+

SS. Start low down in the pit and climb up the rib.

Mark Buxton 26 June 2008

 

28. Seventh Son of a Seventh Son   Font 6c **

The entire boulder can be traversed in either direction, very low at times easy only on the north face.

 

 

Boulder Eight

About 20m right (west) the last boulders of this group are sadly showing signs of neglect.

 

29. Eight Miles High   Font 2

Just left of the aręte on the third boulder.

 

30. Eight Days a Week   Font 3+

The narrow wall between the aręte and the blunt rib.

 

31. Eighth Wonder   Font 2+ *

The rib right of the aręte.

 

 

The Northern Boulders

About 75m right beyond a grassy slope is an isolated aręte. Beyond that is a long wall.

 

9. The Isolated Aręte

 

32. The Isolated Aręte Font 2+

Climb the left side of the aręte.

 

 

10. The Wall

About 20m right of the Isolated Aręte.

 

33. In the Flesh   Font 2+

The left aręte finishing at good holds.

 

34. Goodbye Blue Sky   Font 4

The left side of the long wall moving left to finish at a jutting jug.

 

35. Empty Spaces   Font 4 *

The wall, finish just right of poised block.

 

36. Another Brick in the Wall   Font 4+

Climb the middle of the wall.

 

37. Goodbye Cruel World   Font 4

Climb the wall using a good pocket as a LH layaway.

 

38. Hey You   Font 2+

Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney/crack.

 

39. Comfortably Numb   Font 4

Hand traverse the break below the top.

 

40. Run Like Hell   Font 6a

Traverse the wall below the upper break from L-R, finish by climbing up at the good pocket.

 

 

11. Dobson Boulder

The final buttress is about 20m right of The Long Wall.

 

41. In the Skies   Font 2+

The left aręte of the buttress, in two pitches!

 

42. Funky Chunky   Font 3

The double mantelshelf.

 

43. Tribal Dance   Font 3

The wide central crack, without stepping off the block.

 

44. Seven Stars   Font 6a+   ***

The awesome hanging corner/groove.

 

45. The Prow Font 6a+

The hanging prow on its right edge. The SS is a powerful Font 6b.

 

46. Just for You   Font 5

The slab, immediately opposite the prow.

 

47. Apostle   Font 4  *

The centre of the slab, left of the "D" in Dobson.

 

48. Slabo Day    Font 4

The right edge by the inscription "Dobson". The SS is Font 5+.

 

49. Jo's Aręte Font 4

The aręte climbed on the west face.

 

50. Bad Tip Font 7a+  **

A good test of finger strength. Start at the break, climb the west wall direct.

 

 

Bentley’s Buttress

The first two climbs feel more like routes but the next few can be protected with pads and are good boulder problems.

 

51. Flymantle 6m VS 5a

Climb the broken wall to the centre of the roof, follow the short rightward crack and pull awkwardly over the break.

Stu Ferguson 1980s

 

52. Flakeaway 5m Font 1+

The flake and short crack just to the right and below the prominent overhang.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

53. Bentley’s Wall 4m Font 3

Climb the left edge of the wall immediately right of Flakeaway.

 

54. Scoon Crack 4m Font 3

From the left, climb the wall and small crack left of the blunt aręte. The wall directly below the crack is Font 3+.

 

55. Scoon Aręte 3m Font 3

Climb the aręte starting from the left side.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

56. Erroneous Areticus 4m Font 4 *

Climb Scoon Aręte on its right side and make a difficult move up to a good hold. Continue straight up to the top.

 

57. Wall of Errors 5m Font 4

Climbs the wall between the corner crack and Scoon Aręte with a reachy start.

 

58. Crackaway 5m Font 2+

The all too obvious wide crack in the corner.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

59. Pocket Wall 5m Font 3+

The wall right of Crackaway to pockets and a tricky finish.

 

60. Bentley’s Aręte 5m Font 3+ *

The prominent aręte right of Crackaway. Gain it from the right and climb the aręte direct. Only Font 3 I’m afraid if you chicken out to the right.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

Ravens Wall

To the right is a vegetated section much frequented by midges when in season. Beyond the right hand end of this broken buttress and overlooking the approach path is: -

 

North West Buttress

 

61. Briscoe Crack 5m Font 3+

Climb a short crack and move over a small overhang to a dirty finishing ledge.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

Just right of Briscoe Crack and slightly cleaner is: -

 

62. Howgill Wall 7m Font 3+

Surmount the bulging wall on good holds to a sharp edged flake. Pull out left then move right to finish through a small notch in the overhangs.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

63. Tosser Traverse 6m Font 3

Start up Howgill Wall to the flake then traverse right below the overhangs crossing Turner’s Eliminate to finish up Pitcher Crack.

 

64. Turner’s Eliminate 5m HVS 5b

Start 2m right of Howgill Wall. Climb directly through the bulges to a bold but protectable finish.

Bob Bennett c1995

 

Just left of a prow with a prominent finger of rock below, is an incipient gully. Here is: -

 

65. Pitcher Crack 5m Font 2+

The oft times dirty crack left of a small rib in the afore mentioned gully.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

66. Hagworm 5m Font 3

Ascend the finger of rock direct then up the left side of the jutting prow on an awkward assortment of holds.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

67. Friar Wall 4m Font 2+ *

The clean, pleasant wall to the right of the prow.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

68. Tuck 3m Font 1+

The final wide crack at the right hand side of this buttress system.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

Final Buttress

Six metres to the right, across a grassy break, is another buttress containing an undercut ledge.

 

69. Lock Up 3m Font 3

Use the undercut at the left end of the buttress.

 

70. Wriggle Up 3m Font 3+

Gain the left end of the undercut slab by a difficult move, and then pull out left to finish.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

71. Double Mantelshelf 3m Font 5+

Mantle onto the centre of the slab and continue directly over the roof above.

 

72. Blockton Way 3m Font 3

Pull awkwardly onto the undercut slab at its right end, finishing to the right.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

73. Block and Tackle 3m Font 2+

Tackle the block overhang just right of the undercut slab.

Eden Valley MC during the late 1970s

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

Goldsborough Mini Guide (Acrobat Reader Required)

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