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Eston Nab

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 93

Map Reference:  NZ566183

Aspect: North North West

Altitude: 230m                      

Approach time: 20 minutes

Mini Guide: Eston Nab Mini Guide (PDF)

 

Eston Nab is probably the most unattractively situated crag in the North York Moors!  © Paul Cotton

 

Situation and Character

Eston Nab lies immediately above the A174 (Parkway) above the town of Eston and it can easily be located beside a monument above the rocks. Eston Nab is probably the most unattractively situated crag in the North York Moors with impressive views of Teesside and the industrialised Tees Estuary. Greatest care should be exercised with equipment left at the bottom of routes. Watch out for broken glass.

 

Access and Approaches

The crag is best approached by following the A174 to the roundabout just east of Eston. Follow the road back west towards Eston and take the first turning on the left (into a housing estate). Follow the road south until a small parking space can be found near to a footbridge over the A174. Cross this and ascend direct to the rocks passing some mine buildings. 

 

History

Eston Nab has been climbed on for many years certainly since the 1930s, but it was not until I. Hickman and T. Sullivan recorded a number of routes in the 1950s that its potential was realised. Soon after the 1961 guide C. Fixter and E. Marr climbed many of the remaining blanks. A few routes were recorded during the 1980ís. Including Fingertip Masochism by Greg Humble and Franz Weldon and Ogri by Rawlings and Appleby. The Monument itself has been climbed by a route on the back wall at E1 5b.

 

Bare Face

This is a steep wall approximately 75m right of where the footpath reaches the crag. The face can be defined by a line of boltholes in the middle of the wall and a prominent zigzag crack on the right. There are numerous problems on the rocks left of Bare Face, these were recorded in a previous edition of this guide but due to rock falls and the shortness of the routes they have been found unworthy of inclusion. Nearly all obvious lines fall below severe.

 

1. Fingertip Masochism   5m   HVS 5c

On an isolated rock at the far left-hand side of the crag there is a blank wall with two boltholes. Climb past the boltholes. Finish via a pinch grip.

Greg Humble, Franz Weldon 1980s

 

2. Chaser Chimney   5m   D

The obvious corner crack to the left of the Bare Face.

 

3. Bare Face Robbery   5m    HS 4b

A good route that starts right of Chaser Chimney. Climb the wall direct.

 

4. Small Holding   5m   HVS 5b

Climb the wall right of Bare Face Robbery using two chipped bolt holes to reach a break. Climb the wall above.

 

5. Zigzag   5m   S

The crack right of Small Holding.

 

6. When Carlos Strums His Banjo   5m   HVS 5b

From-the start of Zigzag step right. Climb the arÍte and slab to the top.

 

A direct start still waits to be claimed!

 

7. Introductory Slab   5m   M

The slabs 3m right of Zigzag.

 

8. Pirate Ridge   5m   D

Start right of skull and crossbones carved in the rock. Climb ridge and overhanging block at the top.

 

9. Orange Peel   4m   HVS 5a

Climb the wall 1m right of Pirate Ridge. Holds have snapped off here and the rock requires care.

 

10. Communism   4m   VS 5a

Start 1m right of Orange Peel in a corner left of a small overhang. The corner is climbed with difficulty.

 

North Face

 

11. Oliverís Overhang   4m   MVS 4c

The corner to the right of Communism and the wall above.

 

12. Bilberry Crack   5m   D

The short crack 3m right of Oliverís Overhang.

 

13. Staircase   6m   M

2m right of Bilberry Crack go diagonally left up the wall.

 

14.  Stair Carpet   6m   D

Start as for Staircase but go diagonally right up the wall.

 

15. Simplex   6m   HVD

Start 3m right of Staircase. The wall is climbed on small holds.

 

Great Wall

 

16. Peleton   7m   VS 4c

The obvious corner crack is climbed throughout. A good route.

 

17. Too Simplex   8m   VS 4c

Start 2m right of Peleton at a flake. Climb the wall direct passing a ledge.

 

18. The Bobet Traverse   22m   HVS 5a

Start 10m right of Peleton at the junction of the North and West faces of the Great Wall. Climb the edge obliquely to the start of Peleton. Traverse the obvious horizontal ledge to the right, turn the corner, move right until it is possible to drop down onto a large flake. Follow this into the corner capped by an overhang and finish by climbing the right hand side of the overhang.

 

19. Brown Sugar   10m   VS 4c

Climb the obvious corner crack approximately 7m right of the corner. Ascend the crack and the wall above. This route certainly lives up to its name!

 

20. Grandstand   15m   HVS 5b

Start as for Brown Sugar. Climb this route until a line of pockets can be followed left to the arÍte. Finish up this.

 

21. Great Chimney   10m   HVD

The obvious flake and chimney route in the centre of the West face. Start up the flake to a large ledge, and climb the awkward chimney above.

 

22. Mercier   10m   HVS 5a

Start right of the Great Chimney. Ascend the wall to the top of the flake.  Move right and ascend direct.

 

23. Ogri   10m   HVS 5a

The wall right of Mercier is climbed direct.

Rawlings and Appleby 1980s

 

24. Maillot Jaune   10m   VS 4c   *

Start in the corner right of Mercier. Climb up to the final overhang. Move out left to finish.

 

25. The Other   10m   HVS 5a *

Climb the crack right of Maillot Jaune into a niche. Move up to an undercling, make an exposed traverse right around the roof and climb the hanging corner to the top.

 

To the right of The Other is a severely overhanging wall. This has an obvious line of peg-scarred cracks running up it. Old pegs are in place for protection but it is uncertain if the route has been led free.

 

It has now...  "I was out at Eston Nab today and climbed the overhanging wall to the right of The Other.  It goes at a pumpy (but safe with the pegs) E4 6b. It is a bit sandy at the bottom but the upper moves are really lovely and dynamic."
FFA Luke Hunt  14th April 2009
 

26. MA   10m   VD

The obvious gully 8m right of Maillot Jaune finishing up its right fork. The left fork is Severe and very sandy.

 

27. Crack and Flake   10m   D

The crack and flake 3m right of MA.

 

Across the grass slope is: -

 

Tripartite Wall

 

28. Mafac   10m   E1 5b

The left hand of the two obvious chimneys. Start in the cave and climb the crack in the roof.

 

29. Mafacís  Right Hand   10m   HVS 5a

The crack just right of Mafac is climbed. Finish to the left or direct.

 

30. The Grippa   10m   E1 5b

Start 2m right of Mafac below an overhanging scoop, climb the scoop with difficulty to a ledge, step left and follow the crack to the top.

 

31. Via Maria   8m   S

Start up corner to right of right-hand chimney, up the corner, till a traverse left can be made up again to finish.

 

32. Lliwedd Crack   8m   S

Start as for Via Maria. Climb the outside of the chimney.

 

33. Concrete Crack   8m   S

Climb the crack 2m right of Lliwedd Crack.

 

34. Scoop Crack     8m   MVS 4b

Climb the overhanging corner 2m right of Concrete Crack.

 

Zero Wall

 

35. Udda   10m   HVS 5a

Start as for Zero Traverse and climb direct to the top.

 

36. Combined Ops.   10m   HS 4b

The crack in the centre of Zero Wall.

 

37. Zero Traverse   10m   HS 4b

Start as for Scoop Crack and traverse to Combined Ops. Finish as for that route.

 

Watchtower Buttress

 

38. The Watchtower   6m   HS 4b

 Start up the diagonal crack and leave it for the undercut buttress above.  The left arÍte is followed to the top at 4b.

 

39. Bennisonís Chimney   6m   HVD

Climb the diagonal crack and vegetated chimney above.

 

40. Bennisonís Crack   6m   HVD

Climb the thin crack 3m right of Bennisonís Chimney. Finish as for that route.

 

41. PA   6m   MS

Climb the short arÍte 7m right of the previous route.

 

42. Pafrendo   6m   S

Start at the arÍte as above. Move right and ascend the twin crack to the top.

 

43. Pafrendo Direct   6m   VS 4c

Start at the thin crack 2m right of the ordinary start. Climb the crack direct and finish as for the ordinary route.

 

Wilton Corner

 

44. Crystal Wall   6m   S

Immediately to the left of the undercut wall. Climb obliquely to the left on crystal holds.

 

45. Crystal Crack   4m   S

From a ledge on the left step onto crystal wall and climb the central crack.

 

46. Wilton Wall   6m   HS 4b

Start as for Crystal Wall. Climb straight up on good holds after an awkward start. A sandy scoop leads to potholes and then on to the top.

 

47. Vandal   6m   VS 5a   

Centre of the overhanging wall is a bolthole. Use this and a sandy hold above to reach the obvious jug. Finish up the wall above on better rock.

 

48. Trog   4m   HS 4b

Climb the right arÍte of Wilton Wall.

 

49. Trustee Traverse   8m   VS 4c

Up Trog to the break, then traverse across the wall to the arÍte high on the left Ė finish up this.

 

About 8m right of Wilton Corner is an isolated buttress with two routes.

 

The Secret Wall

 

50. Secret Groove   4m   HVS 5c

Ascend the obvious groove with difficulty.

 

51. Unknown Buttress   4m   HS 4b

Start 2m right of Secret Groove. Ascend the curving crack on delicate holds.

 

 

Bouldering
More details regarding the bouldering at this venue at betaguides.com

 

 

 

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Climber above Eston Nab Photo: Lewis Dale