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East Banks

 

 

Another esoteric venue, this time it's a small roof high up in Guisborough Forest. It's a good little training place for locals.

 

 

East Banks © Steven Phelps

 

 

Map Reference: NZ 637152
Aspect: North West
Altitude: 205m
Approach: 3 minutes


Situation and Character
East Banks is a small roof at the very eastern end of Guisborough Forest. There's a limited amount of bouldering on solid sandstone which is probably only worth a visit if you happen to be in the local area. It's worth taking a soft brush just to dust the top off before an ascent and there are other bits of rock around but this seems to be as good as it gets.


Access and Approaches
Take Whitby Lane out of Guisborough passing Gisborough Hall. At the roundabout take the third exit onto the 171 southbound and after about 300m turn right, this junction is about half a mile west of the village of Slapewath. Take the rough track going up past the Farm and across the dismantled railway into the fields. At the junction with Old Park Farm, take the left fork which turns into a concrete road as you reach the woods. At the top and as you leave the woods, parking can be found on the left just past a metal gate. Go through a small wooden gate and follow the Cleveland Way heading west. Cross a small ravine and about 150m after the second gate, the buttress is visible down on your right just before the path levels out.

The Climbs
All problems are from sitting unless otherwise stated and most were done using the obvious pedestals for the feet to start. Problems are described from left to right.


1. Westworth Wall 6b+ *
Start using the break for the left hand and an obvious jug for the right. Climb the wall direct on horizontal slots.

2. East Banks Odyssey 6a+ *
Start as for Westworth Wall up to the first slot. Traverse rightwards across to the rail of Three Drives, up which you finish. Can also be extended to Blast Furnace at around the same grade. Another variation with a standing start at the layaway hold at the top left of the buttress and moving across the wall to join the traverse before the rail is 6b.

3. Air Wave 6b *
Start underneath the overhang at the break. Reach out to a small hold just above the lip, then follow the vague scoop direct. A variation coming in from the left at the first slot of Westworth Wall can also be done at 6a+

4. Unsolved Mysteries 6a+ *
Start underneath at a break above a pedestal about 1m to the right. Traverse up and left to finish up the vague scoop.

5. Three Drives 5
Start at the break again. Make a long reach to a rail before a direct finish up the blunt arÍte. Another variation can also be done by making the first few moves of Unsolved Mysteries before climbing the left side of the arÍte utilising a small pocket at 6b

6. Praxis 5
An eliminate between the arÍte and crack. Avoiding the rail, make a long reach right from the break and climb past a deep hole.

7. Instinct 4+
Follow the crack line starting with a flat edge and any hold out left. Be careful of the dislodged flake underneath.

8. Blast Furnace 5
Start with a small edge just where the overhang starts and a right hand pocket. Climb the bulge at the right end.