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Cockshaws Quarry


OS Sheet: 93

Map Reference: NZ589107

Aspect: West


Approach Time: 5 minutes

Mini Guide: Capt Cook's Area Mini Guide (PDF)



About 100m west of the cattle grid on the south side of the road is a gate.  Go through the gate and then follow the track that takes a rising contour south and the quarry will be reached in a few minutes. All the recorded climbing is to the left (north) of the small pond.  The best line, Morning Wall, starts in a small corner about 20m left of the pond.  Further left is the uninviting chimney/crack of Sooty and Sweep. All the descriptions and gradings at Cockshaw Hill are those of the first ascentionists, mainly Richard Davies, Karl Telfer and F Ferguson.


The climbs are described from left to right.


1. Honey Pot   8m   D

The wall left of the chimney passing a bush.


2. Sooty and Sweep   8m   D                         

Climb the prominent chimney.


3. Paralysis   10m   HVS 5b

Climb the edge of the wall right of the chimney, Pull round the bulge and continue more easily to the top.


4. New Day   10m   HVS 5b

Start as for Paralysis, trend right to finish up Morning Wall.


5. X Offender   8m   E2 5c

Climb the left side of the wall, left of Primary Contact.


6. Primary Contact   8m   E2 5c

The wall left of Morning Wall, is climbed in its centre to finish up a difficult scoop on the right.


7. Morning Wall   10m   E2 5c

Starts in the small corner about 20m left of the pond.  Climb the steep crack line and leave it by a difficult move to the right near the top. Stake belay. The Left Hand Finish is HVS 5a.


8. The Boys are Back in Town   10m   E1 5b

Tackles the wall right of Morning Wall.


9. Mind Release   10m   E2 6a

The wall right of The Boys is climbed to finish up a corner.


10. Cut and Run   8m   E1 5c

From the right side of the wall jump for a hold below the break, pull round the overhang and step right to finish.


11. Mercury   8m   HVS 5b

Reach the break right of Cut and Run, climb the bulge and follow holds left and up.


12. Moving South   7m   HVS 5a

The wall right of Mercury.


13. Book Stress   6m   S

The wall right of Moving South.


To the right is broken rock and an easy descent ramp. To the right again is the pond.


14. Diversí Corner   14m   MS

Start at the left side of the pond and gain horizontal ledges leading rightwards.  Follow these to below a square cut corner.  Climb this.


15. Cries in the Air   10m   HVS 5a

Climb the black slab above Diversí Corner trending right.


16. The Problem Traverse   Ungradeable

A low level- traverse starting at Sooty and Sweep and traversing rightwards to finish just before pond. The crux is surviving the fragile holds after Morning Wall.