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Clemitt's Crag

OS Landranger: Sheet 99

Map Reference:  NZ708036
Aspect: Southeast
Altitude: 340m
Approach: 10 minutes
 

History
The first recorded climbs were by members from the Cleveland Mountaineering Club during 1977. Chris Woodall, Richard Clarke and Peter Goodwin were responsible for several routes including the exciting Yellow Brick Road. In 1979 Alan Moss together with Kelvin Neal and Nick Dixon took an interest in the crag producing numerous difficult routes, including the superb Touch of Class and Variety Show. The climbs on the more northerly Right-hand Buttress are principally the work of Steve Brown and Dave Paul during 1980. Franco Cookson left his mark in October 2007.

Situation and Character
The rocks face southeast and are spread along 1.5km of hillside. The buttresses are up to 12m in height and are composed of good quality sandstone. The main crag is reasonably clean and dries quickly, unfortunately the less frequented buttresses tend to be more vegetated and slow drying. There is also extensive bouldering near the crag more details can be found at Clemitt's in the Woods (NZ709032). 

Access and Approaches
Follow the main Eskdale road east (towards Danby) out of Castleton. 200m outside the village just over a small bridge turn right to Ainthorpe. From Ainthorpe take the road signed to Little Fryup Dale. At the head of the Dale the road bends left into Great Fryup Dale, take the minor road on the right, labelled “Unsuitable for Motors.” The road climbs steeply out of the valley and on to the moor. Follow this road for about 1mile to a gentle left-hand bend with a convenient grassy area. Park here and walk east for 400 yards along a path to the dry stonewall. Pass through a gate and follow the path descending the hillside. The path soon turns northwards along the foot of the hillside and the buttresses of Clemitts Crag will shortly come into view to the left of the path. The top of Hidden Buttress can be reached by walking north east from the parking and crossing the stone wall above the crag.

The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right. A prominent path runs 30m below the main escarpment. Follow the path to the impressive lichen covered boulder then head for the buttress of choice.

Far Left Buttress
This buttress is characterised by a sharp aręte.

1. Choss Crack 12m D
Climb the slabby crack on the left, passing a tree.

2. Monkeyhanger 12m HVS 5b
Start below a prominent groove capped by a small roof at 3m. Pass the roof on either side to finish up the groove to the tree.
Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal. 2nd June 1979.

3. Apes or Ballerinas 12m VS 4c
Climb the prominent left aręte of the chimney direct.
Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal. 2nd June 1979.

4. Vee Chimney 12m VD
Climb the obvious chimney on the right-hand side of the crag.
1979.

15m to the right is Touch of Class Buttress

Touch of Class Buttress
This is identified by a diagonal fault which starts from the bottom of the crag and runs into a small roof at two-thirds height.

5. Limelight 13m HVS 5a
Start on the left. Climb rightwards up the slab past an in situ thread to the break. Traverse left for 3m, then finish via a tree filled crack.
Alan Moss, Farrow late May 1979.

6. Touch of Class 13m E2 5c *
Start 3m left of Variety Show. Climb the slab leftwards to the roof, pull over the awkward roof via a crack and then gain the top. A superb pitch.
Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal 6thMay 1979.

7. Variety Show 13m E2 5b *
An excellent, bold climb. Follow the obvious left-hand flake/break to the roof, climb over this to the top.
Nick Dixon, Graham Buckley, Alan Moss 1979.

8. If You Like It 12m HVS 5b
Climb the flakey wall to the break at 5m then move left and up the wall, finishing just right of a prominent tree.
Alan Moss 1979.

9. Flakey Wall 12m VS 4c
Climb flakes on the left wall of the chimney.

10. Unnamed Chimney 12m D
Climb the chimney on the right.

11. 12th Night 40m HVS 5a
A right to left girdle of the crag.
1. Start 3m right of the chimney. Climb up and left to belay in the chimney.
2. Traverse left to If You Like It, then into Variety Show, continue along the break finishing up Limelight.
Alan Moss, Graham Buckley 1979.

12. Toad in The Hole 16m HVS 5a
Start just left of the centre of the buttress, 13m right of Flakey Wall. Climb the slabby groove to the bulge, move right into an exposed position. Make a hard move to gain the crack, then climb the crack to the top past a rotting peg, finish by a tree.

Main Buttress
This buttress has a large and impressive roof.

13. Box Chimney 13m VS 4c
7m right of the left aręte of the buttress are twin cracks in the head wall guarded by a box chimney below. Climb the chimney and cracks.
Kelvin Neal, Alan Moss 5th October 1980.

14. Choke Chimney 13m Severe
5m right of Box Crack. Climb the chimney past a holly tree.

15. Variant S
Climb up the obvious slab and crack right of Choke Chimney.

16. Period Pains 10m VS 5a
Climb the vertical crack 2m right of Rainy Day Blues.

17. Rainy Day Blues 15m E1 5c *
Climb the thin crack up the bulging wall behind the bushy tree. A fine problem.

18. Buck up Your Ideas 10m HVS 5b
Climb the groove 7m right of Rainy Day Blues.

19. Capstone Chimney 13m D
Climb the obvious green chimney capped by a roof. A variant on the right has been climbed into the chimney.

20. Yellow Brick Road 15m HVS 4c *
Start 2m right of the chimney. Climb up and right to the aręte just below the roof. Move right, round the aręte and so to the top. A good, bold route.
Chris Woodall, Richard Clarke, Peter Goodwin 1977/78.

Far Right Buttress
This is a continuation of Clemitts Crag escarpment. Follow the path below the main crag northwards for 400m there are several small isolated areas of rock and further on a more continuous stretch of rock on which several routes have been recorded, (the two described below are probably the best). The rock tends to be dirty and loose in some areas.

21. Hulk 8m HVS 5b
Start at the chimney on the right of the overhang. Climb left on to the ledge. Using the horizontal slots, reach the aręte. Layback the aręte to the top.
Steve Brown, Dave Paul 1980.

22. Blankety Blank 8m HVS 5b
Climb the bulge direct from right to left to a ledge. From the ledge climb the sharp aręte, just left of a shallow groove.
Dave Paul, Steve Brown 1980.
 

Bouldering
More details regarding the bouldering at this venue at betaguides.co.uk