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Chulilla

 

 

The crag on the left behind the tree is "El muro de las lamentaciones".                                        Photo copyright Steve Crowe

 

Rock Climbing in Chulilla

 

Climbing in Chulilla has changed a lot since the heydays of the 1980's, many new sectors have been developed many older routes have got longer too! A 70m rope is essential for many of the newer routes and for some climbers an 80m rope is preferred. The routes are generally well protected so take plenty of quickdraws too! There is plenty of climbing surrounding the town of Chulilla itself and the some of newer sectors are clearly visible a short walk across the river. The most popular of the newer sectors is the south facing wall of El muro de las lamentaciones. Then a little to its right and directly opposite the new Refugio is the east facing wall of Pared de Enfrente which catches the sun until about 2pm. The NW facing wall of Embalse is a beautiful orange wall which gets steeper as you head left, but ranges between slabs and bulges at the right-hand end to about 10 degrees constantly overhanging for the main middle section, then some harder routes at the left-hand end with steep barrel shaped starts into less steep headwalls. The climbing is mainly technical on a variety of thin tufas, crimps, side-pulls – a face climbers dream venue really. There's plenty of good 6's and some superb 7a's but the main event is the middle section offering a superb choice of 7c and 7c+'s.

 

The stunning Los Calderones de Chulilla (walkway) through the gorge to the dam has been restored which has eased access to many of the newer sectors nearer the dam and it is a superb walk for rest days and non climbers alike.

 

This fella helped build the new paths around Chulilla.  Photo copyright Steve Crowe

 

The popular climbers refugio El Altico is ran by local activist Pedro Pons. It is always open however it is important to book in advance preferably by email (info@elaltico.com). The prices are reasonable: currently 15 € person/night (or 10 € for people who like to sleep in their van but they want to use the excellent El Altico facilities). For more information about the climber friendly accommodation at  El Altico visit their website here: http://www.elaltico.com.

 

The Chulilla climbing topo that was first published in the Spanish climbing magazine Desnival in November 2010 can now be found here: http://chulillaclimbing.com. Gaz Parry made the front cover of Climb Magazine in 2011 read more on his blog: Gaz Parry Climbing.com.

Desnival also published a Chulilla update in December 2013. More general information regarding climbing at Chulilla can be found on the popular Valencia Climbing website Vclimb. The January 2015 issue of Climber Magazine featured with "Climbing in a Spanish Paradise" an interesting article by local activist Marijne Lekkerkerker who details this magical place festooned with high quality rock and routes.

 

Slope - 292  Slope - 329 Climber Digital Issue

Desnival: November 2010 and December 2013

 

 

You can record your ascents in the UK Climbing data base here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3789


Chulilla watercolours © Steve Crowe climbonline.co.uk

Chulilla watercolours.                                        

 

 

The Chulilla tourist info can be found here: http://en.comunitatvalenciana.com/town/valencia-tierra-i-mar-chulilla-2. Tito's Bar in the town square has wifi and also sells the guidebook. Many bars offer free wifi.
 

Tio Jose is adjacent to the town!                                 Photo copyright Steve Crowe

 

 

La Pared Blanca, more topos like this one can be found at climbmaps.com

 

 

Top Chulilla Climbs

This is a selection of some of the very best climbs at Chulilla. (Note: the list keeps getting longer!)

 

Magnetoresistencia 6b+, Oasis

El Ramallito 6c, El muro de las lamentaciones

La Diagonal 6c,7a, Sex Shop
Blue Agave 7a, El muro de las lamentaciones

Top of the Rock 7a, Oasis

Richer Line 7a, Chorreras

Plan Z.  7a, Oasis
Pim Pam Pons 7a+, Chorreras
Sendero sinuoso 7a+, Oasis
Dale duro negro 7b, Sex Shop

Cantalobos 7b, Pared de enfrente

Segul lluitan 7b, Nano Park

Daños colaterales 7b+, Oasis
Los Franceses 7b+, Pared de enfrente
El gran dinosaurio blanco 7b+, Cañaveral

La conjura de los nachos, Cañaveral
Nibelungalos 7cAlgarrobo

Todo un clásico 7c, Cañaveral

Super Zeb 7c, Pared blanca
Los Caminantes 7c, Chorreras
Moon Safari 7c+Algarrobo

El rey de a palanca 7c+Algarrobo

El diablo viste de prana 7c+Algarrobo
El Ramallar 7c+, Pared de enfrente
El Romanso de las mulas 7c+, Pared de enfrente

El Bufa 7c+/8a, Balconcito
El Agent Naranja 8a, Balcon

La Montana magica 8a+/b, Balconcito

La bella protegida 8b, Balconcito

 

 

Climber enjoying evening sun on  El agent naranja 8a Photo (C) Steve Crowe

 

 


The 2013 Chulilla Climbing Guidebook or "Guia de escalada" is sold out. The girl from the Tobacco shop in the town centre sells photocopies. A new guidebook by Pedro Pons is in the making. Meanwhile check www.climbmaps.com. Info on the new routes can also be found at Tito's and El Altico refugi.