The crag on the left behind the tree is "El muro de las lamentaciones". Photo copyright Steve Crowe
Rock Climbing in Chulilla
Climbing in Chulilla has changed a lot since the heydays of the 1980's, many new sectors have been developed many older routes have got longer too! A 70m rope is essential for many of the newer routes and for some climbers an 80m rope is preferred. The routes are generally well protected so take plenty of quickdraws too! There is plenty of climbing surrounding the town of Chulilla itself and the some of newer sectors are clearly visible a short walk across the river. The most popular of the newer sectors is the south facing wall of El muro de las lamentaciones. Then a little to its right and directly opposite the new Refugio is the east facing wall of Pared de Enfrente which catches the sun until about 2pm. The NW facing wall of Embalse is a beautiful orange wall which gets steeper as you head left, but ranges between slabs and bulges at the right-hand end to about 10 degrees constantly overhanging for the main middle section, then some harder routes at the left-hand end with steep barrel shaped starts into less steep headwalls. The climbing is mainly technical on a variety of thin tufas, crimps, side-pulls – a face climbers dream venue really. There's plenty of good 6's and some superb 7a's but the main event is the middle section offering a superb choice of 7c and 7c+'s.
The stunning Los Calderones de Chulilla (walkway) through the gorge to the dam has been restored which has eased access to many of the newer sectors nearer the dam and it is a superb walk for rest days and non climbers alike.
This fella helped build the new paths around Chulilla. Photo copyright Steve Crowe
The popular climbers refugio El Altico is ran by local activist Pedro Pons. It is always open however it is important to book in advance preferably by email (firstname.lastname@example.org). The prices are reasonable: currently 15 € person/night (or 10 € for people who like to sleep in their van but they want to use the excellent El Altico facilities). For more information about the climber friendly accommodation at El Altico visit their website here: http://www.elaltico.com.
The Chulilla climbing topo that was first published in the Spanish climbing magazine Desnival in November 2010 can now be found here: http://chulillaclimbing.com. Gaz Parry made the front cover of Climb Magazine in 2011 read more on his blog: Gaz Parry Climbing.com.
Desnival also published a Chulilla update in December 2013. More general information regarding climbing at Chulilla can be found on the popular Valencia Climbing website Vclimb. The January 2015 issue of Climber Magazine featured with "Climbing in a Spanish Paradise" an interesting article by local activist Marijne Lekkerkerker who details this magical place festooned with high quality rock and routes.
You can record your ascents in the UK Climbing data base here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3789
The Chulilla tourist info can be found here:
Tito's Bar in the town square has wifi and also sells the guidebook. Many bars offer
Tio Jose is adjacent to the town! Photo copyright Steve Crowe
La Pared Blanca, more topos like this one can be found at climbmaps.com
Top Chulilla Climbs
This is a selection of some of the very best climbs at Chulilla. (Note: the list keeps getting longer!)
Magnetoresistencia 6b+, Oasis
El Ramallito 6c, El muro de las lamentaciones
Diagonal 6c,7a, Sex Shop
Top of the Rock 7a, Oasis
Richer Line 7a, Chorreras
Cantalobos 7b, Pared de enfrente
Segul lluitan 7b, Nano Park
colaterales 7b+, Oasis
conjura de los nachos, Cañaveral
Todo un clásico 7c, Cañaveral
7c, Pared blanca
El rey de a palanca 7c+, Algarrobo
diablo viste de prana 7c+, Algarrobo
El Bufa 7c+/8a, Balconcito
La Montana magica 8a+/b, Balconcito
La bella protegida 8b, Balconcito
Climber enjoying evening sun on El agent naranja 8a Photo (C) Steve Crowe
The 2013 Chulilla Climbing Guidebook or "Guia de escalada" is sold out. The girl from the Tobacco shop in the town centre sells photocopies. A new guidebook by Pedro Pons is in the making. Meanwhile check www.climbmaps.com. Info on the new routes can also be found at Tito's and El Altico refugi.