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Catter Beck

 

Catter Beck Quarry‏

Grid Reference: SE 713875
Aspect: North East
Altitude: 80m
Approach: 3 minutes


Situation and Character
Another magnesium limestone venue close Ravenswick Quarry. Although similar in character, this quarry faces north east and there isn't as much in the way of bouldering. The climbing includes steep smooth walls and pleasant crack lines with many different features and some good quality rock, although there can be loose holds on some climbs so please check the descriptions. There are also several convenient trees running along the top to set up belays. Due to it's northerly aspect it is best avoided during the winter months and requires several dry days before a visit. During the summer the quarry is shrouded in trees which blocks out most of the sun, making spring or autumn the best time of year to visit.



History
The quarry has been known about in some capacity for a number of years but the first known visits weren't until early 2012 by Sam Marks, Mathew Ferrier and Jack Hodgson, who added the obvious challenges of Saucy Badgers Return and Rosie and Joanne. Recently more routes have been cleaned and developed along with some boulder problems but there is still potential for more development.



Access and Approaches
Take the turn off on the A170 at Keldholme signposted for Hutton le Hole and follow for just over half a mile to the same parking as for Ravenswick at the grassy lay-by on the right. Walk north up the main road until a public footpath sign but instead of following this down into the valley, take a small path going into the woods on the right. At present it is not known who owns the land or if there is any right to climb here.

 

Far Left Buttress

The first routes can be found on the large buttress at the east of the quarry. Most climbs are steep and some have loose rock as your approach the top.

 

To the left is a possible crack climb but it would need some clearance work.

1. Bluebell Wall 7m VS 4b
Climb up the far left wall using flakes, tufas, pockets and jugs.
Steven Phelps (solo) 09/05/2016

2. Two Scoops Crack 9m VS 5a
The hanging flake crack in the middle of the wall. Finish slightly right as for the next route. Be careful with loose rock near the top.
Steven Phelps 22/06/2016

3. Cafe Creme 9m E1 5b *
Move up the eliminate wall to a good left hand hold which allows the mid height flake to be gained. From here, move to some holds directly above before a long reach to a good flat hold and a jug on the suspect flake. Finish carefully up the this to the salvation of a small tree.
Steven Phelps 22/04/2016


4. Fragile Ways 9m HVS 4c
The obvious arÍte finishing leftwards as for the last route. Protection is sparse but a thin tree offers a sling at mid height and be aware of some loose rock. A character building exercise.
Steven Phelps 22/06/2016

5. Rosie and Joanne 11m HVS 4c *
Climb the double crack system to finish up the strenuous chimney. Be careful of possible loose rock near the top.
Sam Marks, Jack Hodgson 25/05/2012


There's scope for more routes on the walls to the left and right of Rosie and Joanne.


Spaunton Buttress


6. Spaunton Crack 7m S *
The obvious crack throughout.
Steven Phelps 22/04/2016

7. Spaun of the Dead 7m VS 4c *
Start by climbing just right of the crack up to a hollow flake. Join the upper part of the crack to finish.
Steven Phelps 22/04/2016

8. Zeta Riticulli 8m HS 4b *
Gain the ledge either direct or from the right. Move up the smooth wall past a series of breaks.
Steven Phelps 22/04/2016



9. Mercury Transit 8m S 4a
Move up a short crack to gain the breaks. Finish direct up the blunt arÍte.
Steven Phelps (solo) 09/05/2016

10. Terraform 8m VS 4c
Climb the steep right wall past a good ledge to a platform. Finish up the blunt arÍte as for the last route.
Steven Phelps 22/04/2016


The next area holds some boulder problems. These are located on the right side of the wall and are given font grades. The higher lines are given traditional grades though they can be climbed as highball boulder problems.


Lingmoor Buttress


1. Bad Moon Rising 5m S
The crack on the left wall.
Sam Marks 03/06/2012

2. Royal Pain 5m S 4b
Climb just right of the crack.
Steven Phelps 05/05/2016

3. Lingmoor Wall 6m VS 5a *
Start low down. Climb the line just left of the arÍte.
Steven Phelps 05/05/2016

4. Lingmoor ArÍte 6m HVS 5b *
The left side of the arÍte.
Steven Phelps 05/05/2016


5. Saucy Badgers Return 6m HVS 5b *
The right side of the arÍte.
Sam Marks 31/03/2012

6. Birthday Bomb 6m HVS 5a
The wall just right of the arÍte.
Sam Marks, Mathew Ferrier 03/06/2012

7. Nettle Soup 6m HS 4b *
Climb direct to the large layaway. Reach high to some obvious edges and finish direct.
Steven Phelps 05/05/2016

8. Cross with the Moss About the Crack 6m S 4a
The broken crack line in the centre of the wall.
Sam Marks, Mathew Ferrier 03/06/2012

9. Serene 4+
Start left of a short head height crack. Climb up to a good hold and finish with a long reach to another good hold on the ledge beneath the first tree.
Steven Phelps 05/02/2016

10. If We Try 5
Start right of the crack. Climb direct utilising a small hold on the upper wall to finish at the ledge again.
Steven Phelps 05/02/2016

11. Sloper Test 6a+
Match the sloper at the right side of the wall. Either finish here or undercut up to a marginal hold below the tree at around the same grade.
Steven Phelps 05/02/2016

12. Low End Specialist 4
Traverse the head height break of the front wall from left to right.
Steven Phelps 05/02/2016