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Castleton Rigg

 

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 94        

Map Reference:  NZ682057 

Aspect: West

Altitude: 280m

Approach: 2 minutes

Author: Neil Thompson

 

Situation and Character 

The climbing is in a quarry.

 

History

Nick Dixon and party are known to have visited the Quarry in the 1980s however these names and descriptions were provided by Neil Thompson in 1993.

 

Access and Approaches

Head south from Castleton on the Hutton le Hole road. Take the second right turn just past the village towards Westerdale.  Follow the road as it bends left and follow for a little under a mile. The crag is on the road which runs parallel to the Blakey road.
 

The Climbs

They reach a height of about 7m. The climbs are described from right to left.

 

1. Route One   VD

The arête at the right end of the buttress.

 

2. The Face   6a

The face immediately left. Start where the overlap low down meets the ground. Climb direct via a shallow slot.


2a. Two Faced   6a
Start on a small ledge just left of The Face. Use small crimps to gain high enough for a left hand sidepull, getting established halfway up aim for a left hand pocket then finish keeping in between the green streaks.
Steven Phelps 01/12/09
 

3. VS 4b

Start just left of The Face where a diagonal crack meets the ground.  Climb up bearing slightly right.

Luke Hunt 20.7.02

 

30m left is a leaning tower with a groove running from top to bottom.  This groove is the line of Splintered Tower.

 

4. Heather Wall          V Diff

Start 1.5m right of the groove of Splintered Tower.  Climb the wall to the ledge, then climb the crack and arête just right of the final groove of Splintered Tower.

Luke Hunt 20.7.02

 

5. Splintered Tower   VD

From the recess at the bottom climb over a large wedged block. Step left and climb the groove.

 

6. Senior’s Ridge   Moderate.

To the left of Splintered Tower is a ridge.  Climb this without deviation.

M Hunt 25.7.02

 

20m left is an arête with an undercut bottom.  This is the line of Scrambled Egg.

 

7. Scrambled Egg   VS 5a

Climb the arête without stepping off to the right.

Luke Hunt 20.7.02

 

5m left of Scrambled Egg is a red slab.

   

8. Red Slab Arête   HS 4b

Climb the arête on the left of the slab. Balancy.     

Luke Hunt 20.7.02

                  

20m left is a larger shield of rock.

 

9. The Slab   HS 4b

Three metres right of the lowest point of the slab. Climb trending right then left following flaky holds until it is possible to climb for the top.

Variation   VS 5b

A direct version to The Slab.  It is squeezed in but good climbing.

(Variation) Steven Phelps 01/07/11
 

10. Green Streak  VS 5a

Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress.  Climb to the ledge at 2m and ascend the buttress direct for a long reach to a hold at the top of the green streak. Finish up the centre of the buttress.

Luke Hunt 20.7.02

 

11. The Crack   Severe

Climb the crack running from the lowest point of the buttress.

 

12. Eraser   HS 4b

2m left of the crack is a faint line of flaky holds.  Climb this without deviation

Luke Hunt 25.7.02

 

13. Yellow Streak   Severe

4m left of Eraser is a yellow streak at the left end of the slab.  Climb the yellow streak for 2m and step left onto a narrow slab, which is climbed on its left.

Luke Hunt 30.7.02

 

14. The Narrow Slab   HS 4b

1.5m left of the Yellow Streak is a short, triangular slab. Climb the center of this.

 

Left of The Narrow slab is another slab bounded on its left by a fine arête.  Immediately right of the arête is the line of The Overlap.

 

15. Short Slab   Severe

Climbs the right side of the slab, 1.5m right of The Overlap.

M Hunt and  L Hunt 25.7.02

 

16. The Overlap   Severe

Climbs the slab immediately right of the arête surmounting the overlap.

 

17. The Arête  VD

The arête bounding the left hand side of the thin slab is climbed on its left hand side starting from the lowest point of the buttress about 1.5m left of the arête.

 

18. Sentry Box Crack  HS 4b

Left of the arête is a “sentry box” at ground level.  Climb out of the right hand side of the sentry box and ascend the thin crack above.

Luke Hunt 30.7.02

 

19. Groovey   Severe 4a

Climb out of the left side of the sentry box and the flake crack above.

 Luke Hunt 30.7.02

         

20. Hole In The Wall   Severe 4a

Start immediately left of the previous route.  Climb the slab to the “hole in the wall”.  From the hole ascend directly between the two flake cracks.

Luke Hunt 30.7.02

 

21. Face Route   5a

Climbs the face immediately left of Hole in the Wall without using the crack on the left.

Luke Hunt 30.7.02

 

 

 TheArete-forweb.jpg (46375 bytes) TheGreenStreak-forweb.jpg (58419 bytes)  HotSmaokeandSassafras-web.jpg (31654 bytes)

Climbing at Castleton Rigg Quarry

 

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