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Camp Hill

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 94      

Map Reference:  NZ702044

Aspect: West

Altitude: 320m

Approach: 15 minutes

Mini Guide: Camp Hill Mini Guide (PDF)

 

Camp Hill Main Area                                                           Photo: Steve Crowe

 

History

The first reported climbs were made by Dave Purvis and party during 1959. Purvis climbed Original Route and Scoop Edge, he also made a determined but unsuccessful attempted on what was later to become the classic Cling Wrap. The rocks were re-discovered by Chris Woodall and Stewart Patterson in 1976 but their exploits were not recorded.  In 1979 a strong team including Nick Dixon, Dave Paul and Kelvin Neal focused their efforts on developing the crag. The team added Waves Within, Cling Wrap, Ace of Winds, Tempest and several other fine routes. News of “Crag X” reached the ears of Paul Ingham and Tony Marr who visited the crag a few days later repeating all the existing routes and then added Mad Axeman and Flakey Wall. Despite the crag's popularity no further new climbs were reported for another thirteen years until Steve Finlay solved the superb but difficult Direct Finish to Cling Wrap.  Finally, a number of short climbs/easy boulder problems have been claimed on the small buttresses that adjoin the main crag, on and off over the years. These have finally been recorded in detail, as ever the first ascents may well have been preceded!

 

Situation and Character 

This small outcrop of good quality and generally clean sandstone lies at the head of Danby Dale above Botton village. The rocks enjoy any sun from late morning until sunset making it an ideal venue for a summer evening. The crag can also be conveniently combined with a morning visit to the nearby east facing Clemitts crag. This should provide sufficient good climbs to satisfy most parties for a full day.

 

Access and Approaches

From Castleton drive south along Blakey Ridge for 4 miles until a left turn signposted to Rosedale Abbey can be taken. Follow this flat high moorland road for ¾ mile and take the next possible left. Continue for half a mile until al lay by appears on the right. This is marked as Wolf Pit on the OS Map and is large enough for 4 cars. Park here and follow the bridleway north west and the escarpment will soon come into view overlooking Botton Hall.

 

It should be noted that the Landowner has been granted a 5 year ban on dogs due to ground nesting birds.

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

NORTH AREA

North Buttress
The buttress is to the left (north) of the prominent overhanging block. The problems are described from left to right.

Photo: Steve Crowe


1. Pheasant Days   Font 2+
Mantelshelf the left side of the buttress.
Steve Crowe c1998


2. Grouse Crack   4m  
Font 2+
Wide awkward crack.
Graham Uney summer 1997

 

3. Far Away   4m   Font 3+   **
Just right of the awkward crack.
Graham Uney summer 1997


4
. Philleas Fogg   4m   Font 7a   ***

A few hundred meters left (looking in) of the main crag lies a cluster of walls and arêtes. This problem takes the centre of the main clean high wall from an obvious sit start on low pockets. A Grade or so easier from standing.

Steve Ramsden 10th May 2010

Karin climbing Philleas Fogg                                                   Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 

5. Passepartout   4m   Font 6a   **
Start at the lowest point, left of the block. Climb the arête using large pockets to finish by green streak. Jug.

Steve Crowe c1998

Steve climbing Passepartout                                                Photo: Karin Magog

 


6. Best Years   3m   Font 2 (VD)
The slabby side of the arête.
Graham Uney summer 1997


7. South Face  
Font 4
Pockets to thin crack.

Steve Crowe c1998


Just to the right is another wall...

8. Northern Uproar   3m  
Font 2+
The left side of the short wall.

Graham Uney summer 1997


9. Rib Tickler   3m   Font 3
The groovy scoop just to the right.

Graham Uney summer 1997

 

Overhanging Buttress
The prominent overhanging block is disappointing on closer inspection. It can however be climbed on the north side at 4c.

 

 

10. The Grand North Face   Font 3+

The north face of the Overhanging Buttress.


Jack Sledge Buttress
A large buttress with a big overhang above a slab.

11. Bilberry Cracks   5m   HS 4b *
The left arête passing a large ledge.
Graham Uney summer 1997


12. Soft Scoop   5m   HS 4b
Pass the ledge via scoop and groove above.
Graham Uney summer 1997


13. Jack Sledge   5m   S 4a
Climb cracks to the right.

Graham Uney summer 1997


14. Another Nose Job   3m   S 4a *
Climb the uphill nose. Wacky!

Graham Uney summer 1997


Across the Jack Sledge bridle path to the south is a small buttress.

15. Jump Start  4m   HS 4a
Climb the centre of the buttress via a groove.

Graham Uney summer 1997


16. Flat Battery   4m   MS
Just right of Jump Start.

Graham Uney summer 1997

 
Walk south along the moor edge for about 300m (3 minutes) leads to the main concentration of climbing.
 

MAIN AREA

The main crag comprises three main buttresses with a smaller buttress, Far Right Buttress, situated about 15m to the right of the main rocks. The Left-hand and Main Buttress is separated by a 1m wide descent gully/chimney.

 

Left-Hand Buttress

The Left-hand buttress has an obvious flake running up the centre, this is the line of Cling Wrap. The first route tackles the left edge.

Photo (C) Steve Crowe 

 

17. Original Route   6m   S   *

The clean north wall of the buttress offers good padding after either the usual start on the left or a harder and better start to the right.

Dave Purvis and party 1959.  The “party” comprised ten enthusiastic teenagers (girls and boys), who used the Youth Hostel at nearby Westerdale as their weekend base, and from it they systematically explored all the outcrops and quarries in the area producing some excellent climbs. 

 

18. F. All   7m   VS 5a

The blunt rib to the right of the last route offers thin climbing, leading to a natural finish on the left. A variation can be made keeping right at E1 5b.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr  June 1979.

 

19. Cling Wrap   7m   E1 5c   *

The thin flake is reached with delicate moves from the right or direct at 6a. The original finish (HVS 5c) escapes right along some sloping pockets at 5a, but better to continue direct with good gear in the flake and pockets (5b). Excellent climbing.

Cling Wrap Ordinary:  Nick Dixon, Graeme Buckley 1979.

Direct Finish: Steve Finlay June 1992 .

 

20. Mad Axeman   7m   HVS 5b

From the start of Cling Wrap, climb to a break which is passed with difficulty to a rounded top out.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr and Nick Dixon 1979.

 

21. Scoop Wall   4m   S

Gain the ledge and continue up the scoop above.

Graeme Buckley, Nick Dixon 1979.

 

22. Scoop Edge   4m   MS 4a

Layback up the right edge of the Scoop.

Dave Purvis and party 1959.

 

23. Camp Hill Chimney   4m   Mod

The 1m wide chimney/gully separates LH Buttress from the Main Buttress. It provides a quick way to the top and a useful descent.

 

 

Main Buttress

This is the impressive central buttress.

 

Photo (C) Steve Crowe 

 

24. Tempest   7m   VS 5a   **

Climb the steep wall on the left edge of Main Buttress, with long reaches on good jugs. Powerful.

Kelvin Neal, Alan Moss 1979.

 

25. Jester   7m   E1 5b   *

The green groove to the right is better than it looks.

Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal 1979.

 

26. Ace of Winds   9m   HVS 5b   **

The thin flake-crack is reached after a hard move up the smooth wall. Make some powerful pulls up to the next break and then finish more easily trending slightly leftwards in a fine position. Superb climbing.

Nick Dixon, Graeme Buckley 1979.

 

27. Waves Within   9m   E4 6a   *

A difficult climb up the wall right of Ace of Winds. Climb a shallow groove to the break. Traverse left to place a small cam and then return back right to tackle the wall above via some shallow pockets.

Dave Paul, Steve Brown (both solo and originally graded E3 5c/6a) 1979.

"After some trouble I've also managed to climb Waves Within at camp hill. The description talks of 'a pocket', which is confusing as there are three pockets in a line and the only way I was able to climb the route was by using the two pockets on the right which is about 2 metres to the right of the gear, which you have to traverse left to from the obvious start, meaning a bit of a dodgy fall which could result in injury. The route could go directly up from the gear, but the move is at least 6b!" Franco Cookson.

 

28. Deceptive Benders   15m   HVS 5a

Climb Tempest to the last break and traverse right past Ace of Winds eventually finishing up the jugs of Waves Within. A lower and bolder variation on this can be made by traversing right from the pocket on Tempest at half height and continuing along the break to finish up the crux of Waves Within’ (E4/5 6a*)

Nick Dixon, Andy Luxmore 1979.

 

29. Ordinary Route   10m   VS 4c

5m right of Ace of Winds are two cracks.  Climb the right hand crack to a ledge; continue up the slab on the left to finish. (Effectively two fine micro routes
with a good ledge in between.)

Nick Dixon, Graeme Buckley 1979.

 

 

Main Buttress Boulder

This is the boulder below and in front of the Main Crag.         Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 

About 15m right, past a small holly is...

 

Right-Hand Buttress

The next three routes are based on two ribs and the right hand arête.

 

Photo (C) Franco Cookson 

 

30. Flakey Wall   7m   HVS 5b   *

Climb the bulge on the left hand side of the buttress; continue up the rib on small flakes.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr 1979.

 

30. Pickpocket   7m   HVS 5c   **

Climb the faint rib up the centre of the wall.  A hard start on pockets may lead to better holds.

Alan Moss, Nick Dixon, Kelvin Neal 1979.

 

32. Allain’s Arête   5m   VS 5b   *

The arête just right of pickpocket is followed throughout.

Alan Moss 1979.

 

 

Far Right Buttress (Arch Buttress)

Further right again is a small buttress split by a prominent easy chimney.

Photo (C) Franco Cookson 

 

33. Lost Cause   4m   S

The flake/groove left of the arête.

Dave Paul, Steve Brown  1979.

 

34. Lost Crack   5m   VS 4c

Climb the thin crack and groove. Harder for the short!

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr  1979.

 

35. Lost Connection 5m Severe
This takes the line of weakness; following Lost Cause until a traverse right can be made into the top of Lost Crack.

 

36. Lost Wall    5m   HVS 5b

The wall right of Lost Crack.

Tony Marr, Paul Ingham 1979.

 

37. Lost Groove   5m   VD

The groove just left of the chimney.

Tony Marr 1979.

 

An easy chimney separates Lost Groove from Hookey.

 

38. The Traverse Font 6b
The buttress can be traversed on the slopey rail, going no higher than two metres. Cool conditions help.
Franco Cookson 2011

 

39. Hookey   5m   VS 5a

To the right of the easy chimney.  Climb the left hand wall via a break and a pocket.

Steve Brown 1979.

Rebecca on Hooky                                                      Photo (C) Franco Cookson 

 

40. The Good ‘Un   4m   VS 5a

The wall just left of The Arch via one good pocket.

1979.

 

41. The Arch   5m   VS 5a

Climb the arch in the centre of the wall.

Tony Marr 1979.

 

42. Silly Arête   4m   S 4a

Climb the arête on the right of the buttress.

1979.

 

 

SOUTH AREA

 

Beak Buttress  (Ledge Buttress)

Photo (C) Franco Cookson 

 

43. Who Cares?   4m   S 4a

Climb past the left side of the ledge and up.

1979.

 

44. The Mantel   4m   Font 6b *
Directly mantling the square ledge is difficult. Hand traversing the ledge rightwards reduces the grade to 6a.

 

45. Eliminate Wall   Font 6a+
Direct up the wall to the right.

 

46. Blunt Arête   4m   Font 6a
The blunt arête is short but difficult.

 

47. Who Nose   4m   VS 4b

Wild laybacking up the arête.

1979.

 

47a. Grit Arête   Font 4/4+

The arête is about 4 on the right,  thought the left side is certainly the better at 4+.

Sam Marks 2011 "I can see that it could have been done at some point before!"

This distinctive boulder below Beak Buttress has some worthwhile problems on it.


 

Moss Wall (and Narrow Buttress)

48. Moss Side   4m   VD
Climb the left side of the arête.
Graham Uney 27th July 1997


49. Tell Ya Ma, Tell Ya Pa   4m   HVS 5a
Smear up the right side of the arête without using it!
Graham Uney 27th July 1997


50 The Green Streak   4m   S
The obvious green streak. Poor.
Graham Uney 27th July 1997


Heather Wall

51. Erica Arête   5m   S 4a
Nice climbing up the right arête.
Graham Uney 27th July 1997


Capstone Buttress

52. Capstone Flakes   4m    S
Follow easy flakes in the groove.

Graham Uney 27th July 1997


53 Like Water for Chocolate   4m   HVS 5b *
The blunt rib just right.
Graham Uney 8th August 1997


54. Capstone Central   4m   VS 4c **
Climb the centre of the buttress pas sing two eyes.
Graham Uney 27th July 1997

 

55. South Central Rain   4m   VS 5a
The final vague arête.

Graham Uney 27th July 1997

 

The Arête Boulder

Situated lower down the hillside on an isolated boulder.

 

The Arête Font 6b+

Sitting Start. Laybacking up the arête via a few crimps leads to a slopey pop.
Franco Cookson/Dave Warburton 2 April 2007


On Edge font 6a+ **
Just to the right of The Arete from a standing start. With hands in the break, dyno for the top. A sit start can be added up a diagonal sloping rail at font 6b .
Sam Marks March 2011

Captain Slapstick font 5+
SS as for On Edge and then rockout right for the top.
Sam Marks March 2011

 

 

 

Bouldering
More details regarding the bouldering at this venue at betaguides.co.uk
 

 

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

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