OS Landranger Sheet: 93
Map Reference: NZ592019
The first recorded activity was by the
Headmaster and pupils of Ayton Friendsí School who were responsible for the
easier climbs on this crag.
A warning from an enthusiastic local
"I walked up there one evening (about 1996) and came to the conclusion that
the cliff had fallen down. I found nothing on that hillside that was remotely
worth climbing. I hope I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure I didn't miss the proper
crag. I noted in my diary that if I was ever at a cliff and short of toilet
paper, that the pages describing Botton Head could safely be sacrificed!" If you know better let me know otherwise.
A warning from an enthusiastic local climber: "I walked up there one evening (about 1996) and came to the conclusion that the cliff had fallen down. I found nothing on that hillside that was remotely worth climbing. I hope I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure I didn't miss the proper crag. I noted in my diary that if I was ever at a cliff and short of toilet paper, that the pages describing Botton Head could safely be sacrificed!" If you know better let me know otherwise.
Situation and Character
These rocks lie on the northern edge of Urra
Moor overlooking Greenhow Botton. The crag is situated a few minutes to the
north west of the triangulation point, which marks the summit of the moor and at
454m is the highest point in Cleveland.
Access and Approaches
The rocks can be reached in a variety of
ways, but the most pleasant and least arduous starts from the Bilsdale side of
the top of Clay Bank. Pass through Hagg Gate at the end of the stonewall, and
follow a paved track which runs first rises to the east and then veers to the
south-east as it level out along Carr Ridge. In 3km the rocks of Botton Head can
be seen in front and slightly to the left. A further plod through the heather,
where the track becomes less distinct, leads to the top of the rocks, which
comprise three bands. Band Three is the nearest to Clay Bank and Band One
nearest to Ingleby Incline.
The climbs on each band are described from left to right.
The bay of rock nearest to Ingleby Incline.
1. Swathmore Crack 8m M
Start 8m from the left of the rocks. Ascend
a corner and crack and then broken rocks to the top.
2. Screwy 8m VD
Start just right of the last route
underneath a projection. Climb diagonally right to a platform. Follow the
3. Firbank Chimney 8m M
Start 3m right of Screwy. Follow the chimney
4. Band One Eliminate 5m S
Start 7m to the right of Firbank Chimney.
Climb the undercut crack with awkward moves to start.
5. Late Out 7m VD
Start 10m right of Band I Eliminate beneath
an ash. Mount a buttress on good holds, which leads to a short but strenuous
crack. Finish on the right.
6. Long Stop 8m VD
Start 10m right of Late Out, at the right
edge of a grassy rake. Slabs lead diagonally right. Leave these as soon as
possible and climb direct to the top.
7. Maiden Over 10m D
Start as for Long Stop. Follow the slabs
diagonally right to a ledge. Descend below a small overhang and finish up a
crack to the right.
8. Splits 5m S
Start 5m right of Long Stop. Climb the groove and short crack above.
This is the middle bay.
9. Band Two Eliminate 7m VS 4c
Start 8m right of the first rocks. Climb the undercut crack to a small tree where an exit to the right is made.
10. The Cleft 7m HVD
Start 3m right of the last climb. Climb the cleft to a grass recess. Finish up the right wall.
11. Parallel Cracks 8m VS 4c
Start 4m right of The Cleft. Climb the steep cracks to a grassy scramble.
12. Dido 5m VD
Start 5m to the right of the last climb and at a higher level, just right of a cave. Easy rocks lead to the foot of a short but steep cleft on the left, which is climbed.
13. Aeneas 8m D
Start 2m to the right of Dido but rather lower down. Climb an awkward rib for 3m, and then climb either the right or left face of the buttress above.
14. Boss Chimney 12m HVD
Start 10m to the right of Aeneas, round a small buttress. Climb a corner to a terrace. Gain and climb the chimney above.
On route to Band Three which lies 750m right of Band Two one passes some isolated rocks. One climb has been made here:
15. Nogo 5m VS 4c
Start in a corner immediately right of the first corner. Climb the crack with difficulty to an awkward finish.
A prominent feature of this band is a large slab embedded in the hollow at the foot of the crag.
16. Quakers Oats 5m HD
Start 20ft. to the left of the slab. Climb the steep crack on good holds. Pleasant.
17. Quakers Way 12m HS 4b
Start just right of the last climb. Traverse right for 3m just above the ground to a crack. Climb the crack step right and climb a second crack to a stance. Continue straight up to the top.
Skipjack 12m D
Start from the foot of the slab. Climb the right edge of the slab to a corner of jumbled blocks. Move up on the left and out onto a small, exposed ledge. A large ledge above leads to the moor.
19. Ruddigore 7m M
Start to the right of the slab but much further up the slope in a corner. Climb the crack and chimney above.
Geordies Delight 12m HD
Start 7m right of the slab at the foot of the wall. Climb the middle of the wall to the foot of a groove. Follow the groove to the top.
21. Angels Tread 12m S
Start to the right of the last climb, but left of the nose of the buttress. Step on the wall and climb direct to a ledge. The climbing above the ledge is harder and exposed.
22. Band Three Eliminate 8m HVS 5a *
Start below a smooth groove 7m right of Angels Tread and right of the nose. Climb the groove with difficulty to finish over some doubtful blocks. Traverse left and finish up the corner. Interesting.