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OS Landranger Sheet: 94

Map Reference: NZ602063

Aspect: North West

Altitude: 280m                      

Approach Time: 20 minutes

 

This is the long intermittent group of rocks on the Northwest edge of Battersby Moor. It is easily reached from the brow of the old road running up to Turkey Nab, though of course there are many other approaches.

 

There have been longstanding access difficulties at the crags on the Crinkle Park Estate in the past. The recent Countryside Access legislation should have improved the situation.

 

However the owners are particularly concerned that cars should not be taken on the moor and there should be no camping or fires. Any climbers visiting the crags should take particular note of these concerns and should ensure that no damage or disturbance is caused that could give the owners reason for complaint.

 

The Climbs

All the recorded climbing is situated towards the left-hand end of the crags almost directly behind Old Battersby.

 

1. Foxes Lair   10m   D

This climb is a deep chimney tucked into the left hand end corner of a buttress is climbed, followed by an easy traverse to the left and up a ridge.

 

2. Battersby Groove   8m   VS 4c

To the right of Foxes Lair is an "obvious groove". The route takes this throughout.

 

3. Fox Chase   8m   HVS 5b

Climb the "obvious groove" on the opposite side of the buttress from Foxes Lair.