Home
Up
Articles & Features
News
North East Action
Links
Lost and Found
New Routes
PDFs
Photography
Reviews
Shop
Training Tips
Climbing Walls
About Us

Barkers Crags

© Steve Crowe

 

BARKERíS CRAGS

OS Sheet: 93

Map Reference: NZ520 003   

Aspect: South Facing

Altitude: 310m

Approach: 5 minutes

Mini Guide: Barkers Crag Mini Guide (PDF)

 

History

The early history from the 1930s until 1956 follows the same theme as that for Scot Crags, with Arthur Evans and Richard Wharldall being the prime movers. Sadly no details of their exploits have been found, so it has not been possible to credit particular climbs to them. Throughout its early exploration the crag never enjoyed the popularity of Scot Crags and little of interest was added until 1965 when Stew Wilson and Geoff Harper climbed two existing but previously not led routes, Leaning Wall and The Chute respectively. Tony Marr discovered the superb Fallen Arch the following year, and later during the early 1970s, added a number of hard problems including Avalon and Right Wall. During his visits Tony had noted several obviously hard, unclimbed lines and it was not long before he returned with Alan Taylor for a closer look. The pair concentrated their efforts at Cleft Buttress, only to find the rival team of Paul Ingham and Tony McLean also probing the same lines. The first climb to fall was Finger Jam to Paul Ingham and Tony McLean, but the real prize and worth every one of its three stars, New Dimensions, fell to Alan Taylor a short time later. The two teams then combined their considerable talents to produce some of the best climbs at the crag including, Easter Edge, The Nose and Snatch ArÍte. The latest climbs generated much interest and it wasnít long before Dave Paul added the powerful Hangover and the extremely serious Grand Master Flash in 1984. Richard Davies made a significant contribution with many new and difficult routes during 1987, of which Empty Illusions and Impressionless Lust justify a special mention. At the beginning of the 1990s interest shifted to producing eliminates and very hard problems. The main exponents of this development were Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker, and Liam Wilson who between them created several desperate routes including Montyís Leap, Smiler and The Bends. Steve Crowe was also producing numerous excellent climbs at this time of which Atticism, Breeze and Air Time are particularly noteworthy. Finally, during work for the previous edition of this guide in 2002, Tony Marr accompanied by Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald and Peter Shawcross filled two obvious gaps with Over the Top and Whazzup. That age old question; "Are the rocks fully worked out?" Only time will tell!

 

Situation and Character

It is hard to believe that the first climbs at Barkerís Crags lie only a stoneís throw from the hustle and bustle of Scot Crags, but itís true. Once the fence is crossed the peace and tranquillity is very noticeable, and it is not unusual to have the whole crag to oneself. The crags comprise a series of isolated buttresses of good quality, weathered sandstone, separated by a couple of minutes walking. If you are seeking high quality climbs of all standards or just somewhere to get away from the crowds, look no further.

 

Access and Approaches

Follow the approach described to Scot Crags. Do Not climb over the wire fence, but continue to a stile on the moor edge, just above rocks. The first climbs lie a few metres right of the fence and slightly lower than Scot Crags. Although is possible to walk along the bottom of the entire escarpment, at certain times of the year thick bracken is an impediment and it is much quicker and easier to walk between buttresses by following the moor path at the top of the crags.

 

Note: Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a CROW restriction for all dogs to be kept on a lead.

 

 

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

 

Overhanging Block

Easily identified by the overhang running across its front face. This boulder is located about 5m right of the fence and a little lower than the buttresses of Scot Crags. Three short problems are described but many variations are possible.

 

1. Slab 4m Font 3

Follow the slab on the left side of the overhang.

1960s

 

2. Overhanging Crack 4m Font 3+

Tackle the obvious crack splitting the overhang.

1960s

 

3. Flake Route 3m Font 3+

Climb the bulge at its right end up a shallow groove.

1960s

 

50m further right and slightly lower is a fine buttress with a slabby arÍte and an overhanging right wall.

 

Barkerís Buttress

 

4. Angel Eyes 5m Font 3

Follow the blunt arÍte in the centre of the left face.

1980s

 

5. Stolen Moment 5m Font 3
Start midway between the two arÍtes and climb directly to the top via a scoop.

M Turner 7th May 2005

 

6. Roof Route 6m Font 3 *

Climb the right edge of the main face on sculptured holds.

Pre 1956

 

7. Avalon 5m Font 4+

About 2m right of Roof Route is an overhanging crack leading to an awkward exit.

Tony Marr 1975

 

Back to the Wall  4m   Font 4+
An overhanging offwidth problem! Sit start 1 m right of Avalon, with back to the wall and an armbar. No features on right wall for hands or feet. Mantel right to finish
Simon Hirst 24th April 2014
 

 

Three more problems are to be found 10m further right, where a rowan tree sprouts from the crag.

 

Rowan Buttress

 

8. Rowan Tree Wall 4m Font 2+

Climb the block wall to finish just left of the tree. The corner on the right is Font 1+.

Pre 1956

 

9. Left ArÍte 4m Font 3+

Climb the fine square arÍte up its left side.

Paul Ingham 1979

 

10. Right Wall 4m Font 5+

Ascend the "green streak" on small edges to a good finishing hold but an awkward exit. The left edge is out of bounds. An extended start to the right is possible, traversing left along the break then finish up the "green streak".

Tony Marr 1979. Extended start by Steve Crowe 1990s.

 

Jackson's Block

Two short problems are to be found on an isolated block with an overhanging front face 8m right of Right Wall.

 

11. Left ArÍte 4m Font 3+

Climb the left arÍte.

Ken Jackson 1968

 

12. Front Overhang 4m Font 3

Climb the overhang.

Ken Jackson 1968

 

Barking Block

A similar block located a further 6m to the right has one interesting problem.

 

13. Barking Mad 4m Font 4

Climb the centre of the overhanging front face.

Tony Marr 1968

 

Amphitheatre Buttress

About 120m right of Barking Block. The first climb is located at the extreme left side of the buttress at the top of the slope.

 

14. Green Chimney 3m Font 2+

Climb the prominent wide crack with an overhanging finish.

Pre 1956

 

15. Hairline 4m Font 4

A short problem. Without using the embedded block, climb the hairline crack just right of Green Chimney. Pull over the overlap and finish up the short wall, awkward exit. Escaping onto the ledge on the right reduces the grade to 4c.

FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 22/08/09

 

16. Problem Wall 4m Font 5+

Climb the centre of the blank looking wall on tiny side pulls.

Richard Davies. 25th April 1987

 

17. Outer Wall 5m VS 4c

Starts 1m left of the thin crack, Pedestal Crack. Climb the shallow scoop and wall above keeping left of the arÍte at the top.

Pre 1956

 

18. Pedestal Crack 5m S *

Climb the thin crack to the left of the prominent nose. From the ledge, continue up the wall above. Awkward.

Pre 1956

 

18a. Walled Out 5m Font 5

Start immediately right of the previous route. Use small but positive crimps to pull onto the wall and reach up right for further crimpy pockets. Use these to gain the finishing mantleshelf.

Mark Turner 2nd July 2011

 

19. Walled In 5m Font 4+

Ascend the wall to the left of the prominent nose.

John Earl, Bob Hutchinson July 1976

 

20. The Nose 5m VD

Start just right of the nose then move up the edge.

Pre 1956

 

21. Pedestal Chimney 3m D

Misleadingly called a chimney. Climb the first wide crack to the right of the nose.

Pre 1956

 

22. Pedestal Wall 7m HVD

Start up Pedestal Chimney then move right onto the face and climb this to the top. The wall can also be climbed without use of either the crack or chimney at HVS 5b.

Both climbs Pre 1956

 

23. Hedgehog ArÍte 6m VS 5a

Pull onto the arÍte from the right and climb it delicately with a step right to finish.

Christopher Alexis Harrison, solo 9th August 2007

 

24. Flake Chimney 5m HD

The wide, vertical cleft.

Pre 1956

 

25. Flake Chimney and Wall 4m D

Starts up Flake Chimney then moves rightwards across the slab to finish up the first crack.

Pre 1956

 

26. Hard Sell 4m VS 4c

Climb the wall right of Flake Chimney, finishing right.

Bob Bennett, Mark Turner 31st September 1995

 

27. Long Chimney 5m HVD

Follow the corner to an awkward exit.

 

27a. Coalition   5m   S 4b

Shares a start with Long Chimney. Ascend the chimney to half height then break out right with a hand traverse in the upper break with an exciting couple of moves across the wall before finishing steeply but positively.

Mike and Ciaran Conlon 1st September 2008

 

27b. Tall Tales, 6m, VS 5c

Immediately right of Long Chimney. Cross the undercut and move up to an obvious good hold. Traverse right to finish up the crack. No using any of the adjacent walls.

Martin Whitton, Steven Phelps 25th Oct 2010

 

28. Fairy Tale High 5m Font 6c

Climbs the centre of the wall to the right of Long Chimney on tiny holds. Distinctly thin.

Alan Taylor 29th March 1978

 

29. Easter Edge 5m Font 5+ *

The bulging arÍte just right of Fairy Tale High.

Tony Marr 12th April 1978.

 

30. Fairy Tale Low 5m Font 7a

One for the connoisseur! Begin from a sitting position below the bulge just right of Easter Edge. Pull over the bulge then up the wall, starting from a pocket at chest height. Sounds easy doesnít it!

1980s.

 

31. The Nose 5m Font 5+ *

The prominent blunt arÍte to the right of Easter Edge provides a superb problem.

Paul Ingham, closely followed by Alan Taylor, Tony Marr, Tony McLean, all solo. April 1978.

 

32. Snuff 5m Font 5+

This interesting problem lies up the narrow sidewall between The Nose and Alcove Cracks.

Paul Ingham 1980

 

The Amphitheatre has a wide vertical crack in its right-hand corner. This is the line of Alcove Chimney.

 

33. Alcove Cracks 7m S **

Climb the superb steep groove immediately to the left of Alcove Chimney.

 

34. Alcove Chimney 7m MVS

Climb the wide corner-crack, which is bounded by a sculptured wall on its right. Awkward.

Pre 1956

 

35. Alanís Wall 7m E1 5b

Takes the centre of the wall right of Alcove Chimney on fragile holds.

Alan Taylor 28th June 1977. Another "Taylor 4c"

 

36. Scoop Wall 7m E2 5c

Start just left of the curving scoop and follow the edge of the wall on small holds, moving right to finish.

Bob Hutchinson, John Earl July 1976.

 

37. Mister Whippy 7m E2 5c (Font 6a)

This route is a mix of earlier eliminates all based on climbing the impressive curving scoop. Follow the scoop, avoiding both arÍtes, to a small undercut flake. Make a long move up to a good pocket then finish direct through the small roof crack. Intimidating.

1990s. The original route, Captain Kirk Where Are You (E2 5c, Stu Ferguson 1987), climbed the scoop then escaped leftwards.

© Steve Crowe

 

 

38. Snatch ArÍte 7m E2 5c ***

This is the fine arÍte forming the right edge of the curving scoop. Climb straight up, with a difficult move to a good hold. Further awkward moves may take you to the top. Another intimidating problem.

Tony Marr 13th April 1978.

 

39. Empty Illusions 7m E2 5c

The narrow overhanging wall just to the right of Snatch ArÍte.

Richard Davies 13th May 1987

 

40. Pioneerís Chimney 5m M

The chimney to the right.

 

41. Ancient Pioneer   5m   VS 4b

Separating Pioneerís Chimney and Ancientís Ascent is a blunt flake. Climb the edge of the flake via a thin crack, exit up the right side of the final nose. Short but still worthwhile.

FRA Tony Marr 16th January 2005

 

42. Ancientís Ascent 5m D *

Lies on the right-hand side of the flake forming the right wall of Pioneerís Chimney. Keep to the left edge.

Pre 1956

 

43. Super Skunk 3m Font 6a+

About 10m right of Amphitheatre Buttress is a small buttress with an overhanging left arÍte. Climb the arÍte via an obvious pocket.

The sitting start is an excellent Font 6b+.

1980s. SS by Martin Parker, Liam Wilson both solo May 1995

 

Road End Buttress

Is 100m further right beyond the trees.

 

44. One for the Road 4m S

Climb the centre of the steep wall on the left-hand side of the buttress.

Pre 1956

 

45. Shandy 5m VD

The nose to the right of One for the Road is climbed up its left edge with a move right at the top. Climbing straight over the middle of the overhang is HS.

Pre 1956

 

46. Chaser Chimney 4m HVD

The short chimney on the right side of the buttress.

Pre 1956

 

About 12m to the right are a jumble of large blocks forming..

 

Last But One Buttress

The first boulder has a prominent overhanging nose on its left side.

 

47. The Frog 3m Font 5

Start below the overhang then pull onto the slab and move right. Interesting.

Tony Marr 1977

 

48. Last But One Buttress 4m VD

Climb the enjoyable flake crack 3m right of the last route.

Pre 1956

 

Dayís End Buttress

This buttress is a further 20m right and a little higher up the slope.

 

49. Flake Wall 4m Font 2+

The flakes up the centre of the steep wall.

Pre 1956

 

50. Joshuaís Nose 4m HVD

Climb the blunt arÍte between Flake Wall and the next route.

Pre 1956

 

51. Bilberry Cracks 5m Font 2+ *

Climb the twin cracks up the corner groove.

Pre 1956


51a. Days Gone By 5m 6a+ *
Undercut to a good crimp near Bilberry Cracks whilst stepping up on ledges. Now layaway to a horizontal slot before moving direct up the wall past a deep pocket.
F.R.A Steven Phelps 13/05/2016

© Steven Phelps

 

52. Left Again 5m Font 5+ *

A good problem tackling the undercut arÍte to the right of the last climb.

Alan Taylor 1977

 

53. Dangerous Game 5m Font 5 *

Start on the right side of the right-hand arÍte. Pull up and move around to the left towards a crack, which leads to the top.

Richard Davies 20th May 1987

 

54. Safety in Numbers 5m Font 4

Start just right of Dangerous Game and climb the wall direct, keeping just right of the arÍte.

1970

 

55. Breakout 4m Font 3 *

Takes the wall to the right of Dangerous Game via the diagonal fault.

1970

 

56. Belly Chimney 4m VD

Thrutch up the awkward wide alcove containing two cracks.

Pre 1956

 

57. Snippet 3m Font 5+

Attack the overhanging arÍte right of Belly Chimney. Now try the sitting start.

1980s

 

58. Jericho Wall 3m VD

The wall to the right of Belly Chimney is climbed on jugs.

Pre 1956

 

59. Evening Wall 3m Font 2+

Climb the wall right of the last route.

Late 1980s

 

The outcrops start again about 70m beyond Dayís End Buttress across the sunken track. The first buttress described (The Eyrie), lies about 50m from the gate, and above and to the left of a prominent oak tree. Several short buttresses en route provide numerous problems and a particularly testing low-level traverse.

 

The Eyrie

This tiny buttress is identified by a faint crack/groove in its front, overhanging face.

 

60. The Eyrie 3m Font 5+

Start from the pockets at the top of the crack and gain the sloping ledge. Tricky moves lead leftwards to the sloping ledge.

Steve Crowe 12th November 1995

 

About 10m further right is a large block with an overhanging left wall, and a steep front face with a wide chimney at its right end.

 

Birdís Nest Buttresses

A good selection of boulder problems.

 

61. Fragile Wall 3m Font 4+

The left wall just right of the small cave on delicate holds.

Steve Crowe 1995

 

62. Smiler 3m Font 4+

From a sitting start in the centre of the wall gain the good holds (start of The Bends) then move left and up to finish.

Martin Parker July 1995

© Steve Crowe

 

 

 

63. The Bends 3m Font 6a+

A short flight from good holds to the top. Originally done as a double dyno in one move!

Liam Wilson 28th June 1995

 

64. Wild 4m Font 4+

The line just left of the arÍte, with a good hold to finish.

Steve Crowe 12th November 1995.

 

65. Flake ArÍte 4m Font 5+

From a sitting start, the arÍte is climbed on improving holds to a precarious mantelshelf finish.

Steve Crowe and Karin Magog 1995

© Steve Crowe

 

 

 

66. Short and Sweet 5m Font 5+

Climb the centre of the steep wall to a sloping ledge and then possibly, the top.

Tony Marr May 1980

 

67. Windy 4m VD

Climb the edge just left of the chimney.

Tony Marr 24th January 1971

 

68. Air Time 12m Font 6c+

The buttress can be traversed at high level and back on a lower level.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 1990s.

 

69. Breeze 3m Font 3

Climb the face of the boulder forming the right edge of the chimney.

Steve Crowe 12th November 1995

 

Arch and Attic Buttress

About 25m further right, capped by two trees.

The first two climbs are short problems starting just left of Arch Gully beneath the overhanging wall.

 

70. Architrave 2m Font 5+

Descend under the overhanging wall to the foot of a short overhanging crack. From a sitting start, jam the crack to finish on the ledge on the left (about 1m above the ground!).

Steve Crowe 12th November 1995

© Steve Crowe

 

 

 

71. Arch Rival 4m Font 6a

Start just right of the last route, also beneath the overhanging wall, which is climbed from a sitting start using the diagonal crack. Pull around the bulging wall just left of the gully, and as the angle eases a hidden pocket to the right of the arÍte helps gain the top.

Steve Crowe 11th February 2002

 

72. Arch Gully 7m M *

Scramble up the narrow gully under the massive capstones.

Pre 1956.

 

73. Over the Top 5m VS 4c *

Climb up and over the centre of the massive capstones to finish right. Unusual but enjoyable climbing.

Steve Findlay 1990s


73a. Arch Enemy 5m 6c **
Start left of Fallen Arch in front of an embedded boulder. Climb the leaning rib with use of a crimp edge near the crack and obvious pockets. Finish over the capping stone.
Steven Phelps 10/07/2016

© Steven Phelps

 

 

74. Fallen Arch 5m HVS 5a **

Further right of the "Arch" is a superb overhanging crack, which contains everything that is good about jamming!

Tony Marr 26th April 1966

© Steve Crowe

 

 

 

75. Attic Gully 5m D

The awkward gully to the right of Fallen Arch.

Pre 1956.

 

76. Atticism 4m Font 5+

The wall right of Attic Gully, and just left of the arÍte. A good pocket in the arÍte helps gain the sloping ledge then pull onto the slab.

Steve Crowe 12th November 1995

 

77. Foot Loose 5m Font 6a

Start around the arÍte to the right of Atticism in the middle of the leaning wall. Pull up and move left to escape up a short finger-crack.

Tony Marr June 1980

 

78. Direct Start 4m Font 5+

Climb directly to the final finger-crack.

Tony Marr June 1980

 

79. Attikismos Traverse 10m Font 6a

An interesting low-level traverse starting from Attic Gully to the right edge and then back again.

Steve Crowe 1990s

 

12m to the right is a large block split by a horizontal break with a short vertical cleft above. This is Hogmanay Buttress.

 

Hogmanay Buttress

 

80. Auld Lang Syne 3m Font 4

Climb the wall left of the obvious wide crack of Hogmanay. A hand jam then small pockets lead to the top.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 4th October 1995

 

81. Hogmanay 3m Font 2+

Hug the block to gain the ledge, then move left and finish up the vertical cleft.

Pre 1956

 

82. First Footing 3m M

Start just right of the arÍte. Climb up via two obvious pockets.

Pre 1956

 

Black Wall

Just across the easy gully is a steep, dark stained wall with several popular problems.

 

83. Black Corner - Left Side 3m VD *

Climb the left-hand arÍte on surprisingly large jugs.

Pre 1956

 

84. Black Corner - Right Side 3m Font 3 *

Climb the wall just right of the arÍte on surprisingly good pockets.

Pre 1956

 

85. Black Wall 4m Font 4+

The wall 2m right of the arÍte.

Richard Davies 25th April 1987

 

86. Mandelaís Day 4m Font 5+ *

Gain the shallow corner above a small overlap, 3m right of Black Corner. Small pockets lead left or right, the choice is yours.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog, 4th October 1995

 

87. Timeless Divide 3m Font 3+ *

Takes the wall 1m left of the right arÍte.

Richard Davies 25th April 1987

 

88. Black Wall Traverse  5m Font 6b **

A low level traverse of Black Wall. The L-R direction being the most enjoyable

Richard Davies 1987

 

 

 

Black Wall Boulder

The boulder below Black Wall provides three entertaining problems.

 

89. Billy No Mates 3m Font 5+ The overhanging arÍte. Start on the flake.

R. Sanders 9th April 1997

 

90. Harry Palmer 3m Font 5+

The centre of the boulder is climbed via a side pull.

R. Sanders 9th April 1997

 

91. Big Nose 3m Font 5

Simply jump for the nose and pull over.

R. Sanders 9th April 1997

 

A few metres further right is the largest, steepest and most impressive buttress at Barkerís Crags.

 

The Cleft Buttress

Comprises two impressive overhanging faces separated by the obvious cleft of Chockstone Chimney. During the late 1950s early 1960s, the buttress was used for peg climbing practice as the overhanging walls were considered unclimbable by any other means. How wrong that was! The buttress is now home to some of the finest and hardest free climbs in the region.

The first route starts high up the slope on the left side of the buttress.

 

92. Imperial Measurements 5m S

Climb the thin crack just right of the shallow yellow scoop to a good finishing jug over the top.

The crack on the left is D.

1980s

 

93. Leaning Wall 8m VS 5a *

Start just left of the arÍte. Climb the left wall of the buttress following a diagonal line of flakes.

Pre 1956 top roped only. First Led: S Wilson 1965

 

94. The Chute 7m VS 4c *

Start at the left arÍte. Climb the shallow groove then move slightly rightwards into the obvious scoop.

Pre 1956 top roped only. First Led: Geoff Harper 1965

 

95. Elimination 7m Font 6c

Start just left of the crack of Finger Jam. Climb the shallow scoop to join Finger Jam at the good hold.

Paul Ingham 1986

 

96. Finger Jam 7m Font 6a *

Climb the thin curving crack moving left at the top to finish up The Chute.

Direct Finish 6m Font 6a+

Climb the crack then finish over the blunt nose.

Finger Jam: Paul Ingham, Tony McLean Spring 1977

Direct Finish: Paul Ingham 1986

 

97. Montyís Leap 7m Font 6c

Climb the wall between Finger Jam and New Dimensions for about 4m until it is possible to jump for the good hold on New Dimensions up which the climb finishes.

Francis (Monty) Montague 1996

 

98. New Dimensions 6m E3 6a (Font 6a+) ***

Start 1m right of Finger Jam below a severely overhanging crack. Ascend the crack using a bizarre sequence of moves to an awkward finish. A superb, sustained problem.

Alan Taylor 28th June 1977. The climb is comparable with classic test pieces on Yorkshire gritstone, and its ascent brought a new level of technical difficulty to the North York Moors.

 

99. Open up and Gurgle 6m Font 7a+

A difficult eliminate up the wall between New Dimensions and Hangover via a pocket.

Martin Parker 12th May 1995

 

100. Hangover 6m Font 6a

Climb the overhanging arÍte just right of New Dimensions, which also forms the left side of Chockstone Chimney.

Dave Paul 1984

 

102. Circuit Training 18m Font 6b

Climb New Dimensions to the good jug. Swing left, crossing Finger Jam and into The Chute; descend this and traverse right to New Dimensions. Repeat!

Paul Ingham 1979. A typical training problem devised by Paul, who regularly made a dozen continuous circuits.

 

103. Shorterís Circuit 18m Font 6c

A highly advanced version of Circuit Training on the New Dimensions wall. Start on the left-hand side. Traverse to the right arete with feet above the bottom break. Traverse back left to Finger Jam (feet above break again). Up Finger Jam to big break. Reverse Circuit Training in to New Dimensions. Down New Dimension until hanging off the bottom break. Back up New Dimensions and across Circuit Training. Quite strenuous!

"Monty thought I was mad when I showed him it." Chris Shorter

 

104. Chockstone Chimney 7m HD

Climb the chimney using both walls.

Pre 1956

 

105. Sculptured Wall 8m E1 5a

Good climbing up the right wall of the chimney. Bridging not allowed. Poorly protected.

Pre 1956 top roped only. First Led: S Wilson 1965

 

106. Sculptured ArÍte 11m E3 5c *

Start as for Sculptured Wall then move right and climb the arÍte until 2m below the top. Traverse right around the arÍte then move up to an awkward finish. Serious.

Paul Ingham (solo). 1982

 

Right of the arÍte forms a very impressive overhanging wall with two fine climbs...

 

107. Heartbeat 10m E3 5c

Climb the right side of Sculptured ArÍte, moving left at the top break to finish up the groove in the arÍte. Serious.

Richard Davies (solo) 20th May 1987

 

107a. Cannonball Run 12m E3 6a

Ascend the arÍte left of Grand Master Flash until a rising rightwards traverse can be gained. Traverse the bulging wall, crossing Grand Master Flash to finish on a good block ledge. Strenuous and airy.

Dave Paul (solo) 1984

 

108. Grand Master Flash 11m E5 6b ***

Takes the centre of the impressive concave wall on fragile holds. The crux is at 6m and the landing is poor. Devoid of protection!

Dave Paul 1984. Climbed solo after top rope inspection.

 

108a. Mother of all Ketchup Bottles E6 6b **

Starts as for Grand Master Flash but pulls out right as the angle eases to make the most of the bad landing! Serious!

Martin Parker 1996. Solo after top rope inspection.

 

109. Night Entry 10m VD

This climbs the overhanging corner at the right side of the impressive concave wall, followed by the arÍte of the wall above.

Pre 1956

 

110. Rum Doodle 5m Font 3+

Takes the obvious layback crack to the right of Night Entry. Distinctly awkward.

Pre 1956

 

111. Rhum Duhb 4m Font 6b

The short wall to the right of Rum Doodle can be climbed using mono and a small pocket.

 

M&Mís Buttress

Is a further 7m right of Cleft Buttress.

 

112. Minstrel Wall 4m Font 3
The slabby wall 1m left of the left arÍte.

 

113. A Sack a Day 5m Font 3+

Climb the left-hand arÍte direct. (SS is Font 5).

Richard Davies (solo) 13th May 1987

 

 

114. Slap Happy 5m Font 5+

Takes the front face via a rounded ledge and a thin crack. (The SS is Font 6a).

Martin Parker, Francis (Monty) Montague 1991

 

115. M&Mís ArÍte 4m Font 3

The steep powerful right-hand arÍte.

Martin Parker, Francis (Monty) Montague 1991

 

Cinderella and The Ugly Sisters

70m further right is a triple buttress. The first climb starts a short way up the slope to the left of the nose.

 

116. Beware the Thunder 5m HVS 5c

Climb the wall at the left end of the overhang. Then trend right to finish. An easier escape at 5a can be made by moving left up a short flake crack.

Richard Davies (solo) 25th April 1987

 

117. Living in Sin 6m E1 6a

Climb the centre of the overhang and the wall to the left of the nose.

Richard Davies (solo) 25th April 1987

 

118. Impressionless Lust 7m E1 6a *

Start between Living in Sin and the nose of the buttress. Pull over the overhang and cross the smooth wall to finish up the nose.

Richard Davies, solo. 25th April 1987

 

119. Cinderella 7m VD

Takes the nose of the left-hand and highest buttress. Start on the right and climb up until it is possible to step left around the nose then straight to the top.

Pre 1956

 

120. The Slipper 7m HVD

Scramble up the gully and climb the crack in the left wall.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 31st March 2002

 

121. Ugly Sister One 7m VS 4b

Climb the arÍte on its left side. Looks easy doesnít it.

Pre 1956

 

122. Pantomime 6m VD

Climb the corner.

F Fitzgerald, M Tooke and A Marr. 29th January 2006

 

123. Ugly Sister Two 7m Severe

Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress. Climb the diagonal line of flakes leftwards to an awkward exit.

Pre 1956

 

124. Direct Start 6m S *

Climb the shallow groove just to the right of the corner of Pantomine to join Ugly Sister Two at the finish. Nice climbing.

Tony Marr 29th January 2006

 

125. Whazzup 4m VS 5a

Climb the edge of the steep arÍte on its right side. Bridging from the boulder reduces the grade to 4c.

Tony Marr 21st April 2002

 

Virgin Buttress

A few metres further right is the final buttress on Barker's Crags.

 

126. The Virgin 6m VS 4c

Climb the left wall by multitudinous flakes.

Pre 1956

 

127. Flaked Out 6m E1 5b

Start just left of the arÍte. Climb up to reach a flake and finish more easily.

Richard Davies (solo) 25th April 1987

 

128. Obsessions of the Mind 6m E2 6a (6B+)

Start just right of the arÍte. Gain the arÍte then swing left again and up to better holds and finally the top.

Richard Davies (solo) 25th April 1987

 

 

129. Hard Play 5m E2 5b

Climbs the wall immediately left of Right Wall Route. Start at the same point as Obsessions of the Mind. Climb the overhanging wall trending right (fragile edges) to gain twin finger pockets. Commit to a long reach straight up, then leftwards, to finish on the nose. A serious climb; bold, strenuous and above a bad landing. Note: The holds/crack on Right Wall Route were not used, however, protection was placed in the crack.

Tony Marr 8th January 2012

 

130. Right Wall Route 5m S

Climb the right wall of the buttress by a shallow corner/flake.

1970s

 

131. Hocus Pocus 5m HS

Climb the blunt arÍte between Right Wall Route and the chimney of Back to Basics.

Tony Marr (solo) 8th January 2012

 

132. Back to Basics 4m VD

Ascend the chimney just to the right of Hocus Pocus.

 

133. Curtain Call 4m VS 5a

The steep short wall to the right of Back to Basics.

Steve Crowe 1990s

 

134. Final Curtain 4m HVD

The arÍte right of Curtain Call is short but nice.

 

Return to top of page

Return to Scugdale

Return to Home Page