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Arkengarthdale

 

 

Fell End Boulders

 

OS Landranger Sheet: 92

Map Reference: NZ026025

Aspect: South and West

Altitude: 430m

Approach: 30 minutes

Mini Guide: Fell End Boulders Mini Guide

 

History

The first recorded climbs were developed by Alan Dougherty during the summer of 1996. The boulders were rediscovered by Aido Holt who added many of the sit start problems and returned with Dan Jones and Karl Robinson "to finish the job". The problems at the Square Time Group and beyond were climbed by Alan Dougherty in the company of Carol Dougherty on 3.8.07 or on 8.8.07., when Kevin Flint joined the party and added a problem of his own.

 

Situation and Character

Located in a commanding position high above Arkengarthdale, this group of boulders and small edges provides very good bouldering on, generally, sound Gritstone. Although there are signs of quarrying most of the outcrop appears natural and is less prone to lichen than the nearby Healaugh (Crag Willas). Landings vary from excellent to awful, with the odd pool for added excitement. Views are superb, especially to the west and the venue is ideally suited to summer evenings. Climbers are requested to avoid visits during lambing time. No dogs. These boulders are on open access land however people with dogs are excluded. More info here.

 

Access and Approaches

A car park can be found just before Langthwaite on the main road from Reeth that runs up Arkengarthdale. Walk into Langthwaite village and cross over the bridge to follow the riverside track, downstream, on the true left bank of Arkle Beck. This lane (marked as a bridleway on OS maps) bears away from the beck, near a footbridge, to climb through woods to open fields. Continue along the track crossing the bridge over Slei Gill and so reach Storthwaite Hall. Just beyond the farm buildings, turn left (through a gate) and follow the bridleway steeply uphill across two fields. At the fell-gate follow zig-zags through spoil heaps to reach the moor top, at which point the boulders are conspicuous to the north. Provided you have not been mown-down by descending mountain-bikers, you should have reached the boulders in some thirty minutes and be well warmed-up. It is also reasonable to approach by bike from the small hamlet of Hurst.  The Red Lion Inn is a fine free house that serves ales from Masham.

 

FELL END BOULDERS

Aspect: south and west

A group of large and small Gritstone boulders, just north of a popular bridleway offering problems across the grades.

 

The Problems

The excellent south faces of the two largest boulders (first to be seen on the approach) have superb landings and very fine outlooks. Climbers should be aware that some of the problems top-out onto a surface of conglomeritic Gritstone that can contain loose pebbles.

 

Right-hand Boulder

The first problems climb the short wall at the back of the boulder.

 

First Boulder

The first problems are on the short back wall.

 

1. Lip Gloss   V2 5c

Variation finish. V2 5c

 

2. Tertiary Wipe V3 6a

 

3. Botox   V2 5c

Variation finish V3 6a

 

The 3m high south ("front") face offers good short problems above an excellent landing. Beware some of the flakes are friable! From left to right:

 

4. Pebbledash Arête   V0 5a/5b

Right-hand arête to awkward finish.

 

5. Exploding Flakes   V1 5b

Leaning wall to finish up short crack.

Steve Crowe climbing Exploding Flakes in 2003

 

6. Inappropriate Lycra    V2 5b/c

Wall left of central crack to "balancy" finish.

 

7. Over-used Superlatives   V1 5b

The rounded, left-hand arête directly.

 

8 Ephemeral Flakes Traverse    V2 5b/c

Left to right rising traverse across the leaning wall from Over-used Superlatives to finish up Pebbledash Arête.

 

9. Weird and Wonderful   V1 5b

Climb the weird cleft.

 

9a. Sweet Cheeks   V5 (Font 6c)

In between Weird and Wonderful and Little Man there is a ledge, start here. Rock over rightwards to a wide pinch then make a precarious lunge for the top.
Ryan Marshall 2nd January 2015

 

10. Little Man V4 6a

Climb the arête.

Little Man Aido Holt

 

Middle Boulder

The 6m high south face.

 

11. Wall in the Hole   V0 5a/b

Ascend the left wall 2m left of the corner crack. High step (to reach a horizontal break) and then pocket at two-thirds height.

Dan Jones climbing The Wall in the Hole

 

12. Another Way Out   4c

2m left of the previous route: Use undercuts to reach the horizontal break and mantle to finish.

 

13. High Foot VD

The easiest way up this wall.

 

14. Harry the Hamster VS 4b

 

15. The Craic   VB  4c

Despite the clichéd route name, the boulder contains a fine jamming crack near its right edge.

Steve Crowe climbing The Craic in 2003

 

16. Ripple Wall   V2 5c

The fine steep wall to the left of The Craic increases in difficulty as height is gained.

 

17. Kings Road   VB 4c

Short arête to the left!

 

18. Chelsea Girls   V4 6a

Short arête leads to the shelf.

 

19. Haute Coute   V1 5b

The west face of the Middle Boulder.

 

20. Hoity Toity    V1 5b

Also climb the west face of the Middle Boulder.

 

21. Charlie’s Other Chimney   VB 4a

A good traditional thrutch complete with chockstones by the north-western corner of the boulder.

 

22. Boggle Eye V1 5a

The right side of the wall.

 

23. Pip Dick V1 5a

The left side of the wall.

 

Back Boulder

 

24. Silver Back   V0 4b

The right side of the slab.

 

25. Back to Back   V1 5b

The centre of the slab.

 

26. Back Slab   VB 4b

The left side of the slab. The SS is V1 5a.

 

27. High Stepper   V2 5c

A good short problem to the right of Crine with an awkward start. The SS is V3 6a  

High Stepper Dan Jones

 

28. Crine   VB 4c

Ascend just left of the left-hand corner on the north side.

 

29. Bollocks to Bahrain V5 6b

SS to the arête.

Aido Holt climbing Bollocks to Bahrain in 2006

 

Far Left Boulder

 

30. The Far Left Slab   V3 6a

Climb the slab.

Karl Robinson on The Slab

 

31. Edgy   V2 5c

The left arête.

Aido Holt climbing The Left Arête

 

32. Slippery When Wet   V2 5c

The central capped corner direct - failure resulting in wet feet. The SS is V4 6a.

Steve Crowe climbing Slippery When Wet in 2003

Karl Robinson on the SS to Slippery When Wet

 

33. Pinch and Pop V3 6a

The right arête.

 

  

FELL END MOOR EDGE

Aspect: west

A discontinuous edge and collection of boulders offering quality of rock and bouldering similar to Fell End Boulders. The first problems are reached some 150m north of the Fell End Boulders, beyond the remains of a dry-stone wall. In many places there is deep heather between the outcrops but sheep tracks above the edge give easier going.

 

Wayne’s World

The first Group of four boulders. The three existing problems (APD 1996) are rather lichenous at present – take care –the landings drop away!

 

34. Good Call   V3 5c/6a

Climbs the right side of the face with fingery pulls passing a useless pocket to a mantle finish.

 

35. Lower Case J’s V2 5b

SS in middle of Wayne’s World Block then up via obvious flake.

 

36. Game On   V1 5b

Ascend left-hand arête to mantle finish.

 

37. Schwiing  V2 5c

Hand-traverse the obvious break.

 

Left-hand Boulder

 

38. Wayne's Power Minute   Severe

Takes the short slab to the right of the previous problem.

 

39. Waynes World 2   Very Difficult

The delightful easy-angled slab.

 

Triangular Small Boulders

To the front (west) of group - VD slab with possibility for harder variations

 

Lone Block

50m further north along the edge is a lone block:

 

40. Lone Problem V4 6b

Climb the right edge of the block.

 

30m further north along the edge there are two blocks together:

 

 

Tenacious Levitation Group

Five metres to the left of Tenacious Levitation is a block which forms the left edge of a chimney. Climb through horizontal break at 4c. (KF)

 

41. Tenacious Levitation   V3 6a

a flake/crack feature reminiscent of the Griddle at Healaugh. The flake/crack feature is very thin but contains a mono-pocket, the key to the lower section. Better holds allow for composure to be re-gained before the awkward mantelshelf top-out.

(APD 1996)

 

42. V3 6a or Woosh of Raven 5b/c

2.5m left of Tenacious Levitation is an indistinct rib. Without using left edge, climb up, and slightly left to a pocket which is not as good as it looks.

 

43. Ravensara 5a

Takes front of pillar to left of Woosh of Raven. Rather lichenous and with a scary landing.

 

44. Dogleg Crack VB 4b

The dogleg crack.

 

45. Corvus   V5 6b

The centre of the wall.

 

46. Articulate Vocalisation   V4 6a

The wall pulling over the small overlap.

 

First Boulder

 

47. Ling Escape   VB 4c

Arête curving to left.

 

FELL END MOOR EDGE – ARKENGARTHDALE

Unless noted the following problems were climbed by Alan Dougherty in the company of Carol Dougherty on 3.8.07 or on 8.8.07., when Kevin Flint joined the party and added a problem of his own.

 

The Square Time Group

NGR: NZ 02760310

This pair of boulders contain the Classic Layback Crack. Problems are described from right to left.

 

Right Hand Boulder

 

48. The Pebble was the Key V2 5c

T8ke the right-hand nose; harder than it looks, especially since the pebble has gone!

 

49. Short Wall V1 5b

Climb the short wall to the right; much easier for those with a long reach.

 

50. Right-hand Arête VB 4a

Some 15m to the right is a group of smaller boulders, one of which ports a leaning corner at its left end.

 

51. Eleven Years After V3 6a *

Thin face climbing up the front wall (or is it a very steep slab?) without using either edge. Starting using an initial hold on the left edge still gives a worthwhile problem at 5b.

 

Left Hand Boulder

 

52. Being and Time V5 6b **

A truly existential problem! Small holds and pebble pulling up the slightly impeding wall to the right of the blind cracks

 

53. Fresh Decade V3 6a *

Takes wall below an incipient crack. It is difficult to start, especially if shorter, and remains sustained.

 

54. Classic Layback Crack VB 4c *

The quality of this obvious line is confirmed but technically it might be 5a!

(APD 1996)

 

55. New Millennium V2 5c

Left of Classic Layback Crack is a shorter crack and bulging prow. Climb with no recourse to the Classic Layback Crack. It becomes increasingly tenuous with height.

 

Far North Boulder

NGR: NZ 02810318

This appears to be the last useful boulder along the Edge, furthest from the Fell End Boulders. It is three-tiered, with distinct cross-bedding, and lies before reaching the remains of a sheep-fold and of a wall that crosses the line of the edge.

 

56. Right-hand Arête V1 5b

Undercut.

 

57. Front Face V2 5c

A powerful pull and high step to reach indistinct scoop / pocket.

 

58. Left-hand Arête V0 5a

The final arête.

 

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