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The Winter Bouldering Series. The Axis Winter bouldering Series at ClimbNewcastle is held over five rounds and it  runs until 20th March 2015.  The Crankfest continues at Climb North East at Ferryhill, it is over 8 rounds and a Superfinal will be held on friday 27th February 2015. The winter boulder ladder at Durham Climbing Centre finishes with a final on Saturday 15th March 2014.  Sunderland Climbing Centre Berghaus Bouldering Series comprises of 25 problems over 5 rounds, one round per month, culminating with a final round in March 2015. Details of all up and coming events can be found on our events page.  Reported 22 December 2014

 

 

Click these images for the latest results of the winter bouldering competitions.

Photos © Steve Crowe

 

 

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The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Presents a Lecture by Neil Gresham and Kenton Cool. The NMC are proud to be hosting sessions with Neil Gresham and Kenton Cool on 29th October 2014. Tickets are very reasonable at £8.50 and proceeds will be split between the mountaineering club and Sherpa's charity The Paldorje Education Fund. The event is open to non-club members too, see below for more information, including details on booking tickets.  Here for more information

 

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The annual clean-up of Crag Lough will take place on Saturday 13 September 2014. Crag Lough sits immediately below Hadrian's Wall, and is one of Northumberland's finest low to mid-grade crags. The weekend will follow the format of previous clean-ups; Saturday will be spent cleaning routes, with an evening barbecue courtesy of the BMC, followed by beers in a local pub. On Sunday, you can enjoy climbing the newly cleaned routes. Bit of background to whole idea. The crag is an extensive North facing Whin Sill Dolerite escarpment offering over 100 recorded routes the majority of which are in the perennially popular HS to HVS range. Although north facing the rock is generally clean, extremely hard wearing and does not tend to polish. The crag was one of the earliest to be developed in Northumberland and the classics at this fine crag bear comparison with the best outcrop routes anywhere. However over the last few years the crag has fallen out of fashion, with many climbers tending to focus on sandstone outcrops further North in The County. The relative neglect of the Whin Sill crags resulted in increased vegetation on all but the very most popular routes resulting in the familiar cycle of less attention and further encroachment of vegetation. The efforts of the last two years have brought many routes back into condition but there are some very worthwhile lines left that have still not been tended to. The vegetation of concern tends to be grass and small shrubs encroaching on ledges and in cracks; unlike on sandstone, lichen formation in the winter months is not a significant problem. The timing of the clean-up towards the end of the season is to allow for the departure of any nesting birds. The winter months will help to clean away any debris and vegetation will not return during this time. As has been found this summer the benefits should be enjoyed throughout next year and beyond

The Plan
The plan is to clean routes on the Saturday and enjoy the fruits of our labour by climbing on the Sunday. The BMC is laying on a barbecue at Winshields Farm Campsite on the Saturday evening as thanks for your efforts. There is a decent pub a very short walk away.

Accommodation
The Winshields Farm Campsite is 400 yards west of the Twice Brewed Inn on the Military Road (B6318) - www.winshields.co.uk.
Cost is £8 per person for camping, 50 pence per car; there are ca 60 pitches, so space is not an issue and booking probably not needed. They even do breakfasts on site! If you don't feel like camping there is also a bunkhouse which sleeps 12. I would suggest advance booking if you plan to use the bunk house. There is also a YHA near the pub.

The Crag
The crag is situated 35 miles West of Newcastle upon Tyne about half a mile off the Military Road (B6318). See UKClimbing logbook listing. Cars can be parked at the National Trust Steel Rigg car park; the crag is about a twenty minute walk from the parking. The crag sits immediately below the Roman Wall (UNESCO World Heritage Site) on land owned by the National Trust, who are fully supportive of the clean-up. The crag is also an SSSI. The scientific interest is in the geological formation itself rather than any flora or fauna living upon it, consequently removal of vegetation has a positive impact on this aspect of the crag environment. Formal approval has been given from English Nature. The crag is a nesting site for birds, primarily peregrines and ravens. Whilst the birds have long since departed for this year, one or two ravens’ nests will still be present. These nests are often quite large and the ravens typically return to them each spring. If you find a nest in the middle of a climb it should not be removed, however obstructive it may be.

On the day
We will be meeting at the Steel Rigg car park at 9:30am. There will be a short briefing from the BMC and/or myself at around 9:45am. A short risk assessment will be provided which you will all be asked to read and sign. The assessment is really a matter of common sense. We will then head off en masse to the Crag at 10:00am. The barbecue will get going around 6 - 7pm. Litter is not a significant issue at the crag; the purpose of the clean-up is to remove vegetation from holds, ledges and cracks. The problematic vegetation is most commonly sods of turf which can be removed on abseil safeguarded by a prussik. If you are fairly new to climbing and have any doubts what so ever about setting up abseil anchors and abseiling safely please don't be afraid to ask; there will be plenty of experienced folk to pair up with if needs be.

What to bring
Standard climbing gear: rope basic rack for setting up anchors (including long slings) prussik loops helmet Gardening kit: gardening gloves small trowel (for ledges/flat holds) a patio knife (for narrow cracks / a nut key will work nearly as well) small nylon bristle bush (for cleaning away dirt and soil) Anything which you bring for gardening and cleaning on abseil should have an attachment loop of some kind so it can be clipped to your harness with a krab. Don't worry if you don't have everything on the list above. We will have goggles, gardening gloves, few trowels, patio knives and brushes for you to borrow on the day.
If you have read this far, thanks! I don't think there is anything else, hope to see you on the 13th September. Mark Anstiss

 

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Sunderland Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Ladder Starts on Monday 7th July 2014. The Summer Ladder will comprise of three competitions, one in each month of July, August September, and each lasting for two weeks with 25 problems. Great prizes for the top 3 competitors in the categories Senior Male and Female, Under 16 Male and Female, and the Vets Male and Female. Round One 7th - 20th July 2014, Round Two 4th -17th August 2014, Round Three 1st - 14th September 2014. More details here.   Report updated 22nd July 2014

 

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Its Summer Boulder Ladder Season again. The summer boulder ladders start soon at all these local walls. The first round at Climb North East at Ferryhill starts on Friday on the 6th June 2014. The first round at Durham Climbing Centre  is also kicking off on Friday 6th June 2014 with a green circuit set by James Hunter. The Eden Rock summer bouldering league commences on Monday 9th June and consists of three monthly rounds. Interestingly there are three categories: Grizzly Bear (3-6a ciruit) Mountain Goat (6a-6c+ circuit) and Beast (6c+ and harder circuits).  Finally the summer boulder ladder at ClimbNewcastle runs from Friday 20th June until Friday 29th August 2014. Full details of all the local ladders can be found on our events page. See you there? Reported 4th June 2014

 
Click these images for more information. Photos © Steve Crowe

 

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Next BMC North East Area Meeting is in Newcastle. Come along to the quarterly gathering of North East climbers and walkers. The evening includes a discussion of local and national issues affecting members. The BMC will also be giving away maps, T-shirts and guidebooks to some lucky BMC members on the night. The Newcastle Climbing Centre is hosting the meeting, so why not get there early and fit in a climbing session too?
Date: Wednesday 4 June 2014, starting at 7.30pm
Venue: Newcastle Climbing Centre, St Marks Church, 285 Shields Rd, Newcastle upon Tyne NE6 2UQ
All are welcome; the BMC will provide food, to help keep your energy levels up. For more information, visit the BMC Local Areas site: http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=3196 
Report dated 27th May 2014

 

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North York Moors Recent Developments. With work on Lee Robinson's new bouldering nearing completion reports have been coming in of other recent discoveries by Steven Phelps. Two crags Little Blakey and Shaw Crag have been written up and added. Franco Cookson continues his Moors quest and has recorded "The Never-Ending Flood Of Unclimbed Lines" here: http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/ Reported 23rd May 2014

 

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One Night Competition in memory of Guy Stead. Climb North East are hosting a one night event in Ferryhill on Friday 23rd May 2014 with problems set by the regular Climb North East route setting team graded from F3a - F7b+. "The night should prove to be a memorable occasion as we are uniting to remember a very popular climber within our climbing community. Guy Stead started to climb in 2007 and was instantly addicted. He had recently been involved in a dangerous motorbike incident and was injured pretty bad. However this did not stop him! His passion for the sport was unbelievable and he developed really fast with determination to improve.Scorecards can be purchased on the evening for £1.00 and any further donations will be greatly appreciated. With the money we raise we will purchase a large banner to put up in the centre, a memorial plaque and the extra money will go to the charity MIND. There will be no prizes for the event but we will have lots of cakes that will be freshly baked for the event that will be free of charge. More information from Climb North East.   Update: Chris Graham, Andy Earl from ClimbNewcastle and Sunderland Climbing Centre's Ross Kirtley are confirmed as guest setters for this weeks one night competition! Daglish Photography will record the evening. Free cakes for all competitors, this should be an amazing event! Friday 23rd May 5-10pm! Hope to see you all there. Report updated 22nd May 2014

Chris Graham, Andy Earl and Ross Kirtley are confirmed as guest setters

 

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The ClimbNewcastle Annual Spring Bouldering Competition. The ASBO, is a competition that mixes the fun of the regular friday competitions while giving everyone the chance to witness the best climbers around compete in a spectacular final. Entering the ASBO costs nothing more than your normal entry fee. Plus... you get a free ASBO 14 t-shirt if you are one of the first 200 through the door! The open comp runs from 12 noon, you will have 30 problems to try in the entire difficulty spectrum, font 3-7c+ and between midday and 8:30pm to try them. The finals should start at 9pm and is is a spectator event so you will want to hang around to watch the fun unfurl.  Full ASBO details can be found here: ASBO 14    Pre-Event Information Reported 1st May 2014

ClimbNewcastle Annual Spring Bouldering Competition 2014

 

 

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Northumberland Mountaineering Club The NMC are offering mentoring sessions to indoor climbers to introduce them to outdoor climbing. Both bouldering and trad climbing will be available. The NMC cannot offer professional training; however its members are prepared to mentor you and assist where required. There is no cost and you do not have to be a club member to attend. The club asks that you can:
- Safely put on your own harness.
- Safely tie in to the rope.
- Safely belay a lead climber.
On the day, please bring your own harness and climbing shoes. The NMC encourage the wearing of helmets, so bring one along with you if possible and any other climbing equipment you use (chalk bag, belay device, HMS karabiner, nut key, etc.) There will be four meets based at crags across Northumberland; Corby's Crag 2nd April 2014, Bowden Doors 7th May 2014, Kyloe Out 4th June 2014 and  Simonside
2nd July 2014. The sessions are open to non members however non-members will need to print off and bring along this form to climb.

 

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The Winter Bouldering Series continues...  The Crankfest 13/14 continues at Climb North East at Ferryhill, it is over 8 rounds and a Superfinal will be held on friday 21st March 2014. The Axis Winter bouldering Series at ClimbNewcastle is held over five rounds and it  runs until 14th March 2014. The winter boulder ladder at Durham Climbing Centre finishes with a final on Saturday 15th March 2014.  Sunderland Climbing Centre Berghaus Bouldering Series comprises of 25 problems over 5 rounds with a final in March 2014. Details about the Winter Bouldering Series at Eden Rock can be found here. Details of all up and coming events can be found on our events page.  Updated 8th January 2014

 

Click these images for the latest results.                                                                                                                        Photos © Steve Crowe

 

 

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New Routes on the North York Moors. There has been a flood of new routes reported over the last few days as the dark nights have finally arrived and the local activists have decided to write up their recent activities. Danby Crag has seen a lot of well publicised attention during the summer months especially after Franco Cookson claimed E10 for his new line up Beacon Buttress. Psykovsky's Sequins was quickly repeated by Dave Birkett who thought E9 was more apropriate but he managed to find some extra protection. After 15 years of deliberation Richard Waterton decided to lead the often top roped line at Kepwick to produce a pot of Gold E8 7a. Tony Marr continues to prospect for unclimbed lines across The Moors and with unbowed enthusiasm at venues such as Ingleby Incline, Peak Scar and at the Wainstones. Some new crags have been also developed, namely Kettle Howe and Hillhouse Nab. Steve Ramsden added Ram-raid E6 6c and Franco Cookson reported Panda to the Masses E6 6c both at Stoupe Brow. However the crags and boulders at Stoupe Brow are on private land and the landowner is concerned about the increasing use especially by large parties. Due to the delicate access situation it is recommend that climbers visit in small groups and try to keep a low profile. Large groups and abseiling is not allowed unfortunately. Access here is not a right,  large and noisy groups have been asked to leave. If in doubt contact the BMC. Parking for access to Tranmire has always been delicate however it has not deterred Martin Witton, Steven Phelps, Mike Adams. Lee Robinson, Sam Marks and Franco Cookson all from making many fine additions to this splendid and quiet crag. (Note: Tranmire is best visited in the spring before the bracken gets too high). For more details about the latest Moors activities check the interesting blogs by Franco Cookson and Dave Warburton. More detailed North York Moor's bouldering news can be found on Lee Robinson's betaguides blog Finally much further north in Northumberland Dan Varian has added a desperate new problem at Bowden Doors, Dan considers that The Rail is roughly Font 8B+.  "'The Rail' is the project I did yesterday, it is hands down the best boulder I've ever climbed" You can keep up to date with Dan's other recent activities on the Beastmaker Blog Reported 11th October 2013

Richard Waterton leading Gold E8 7a at Kepwick.    Photo (C) Joe Banner

 

 

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New Refugi opening at Abella de la Conca in the spring of 2014. Situated in the village of Abella de la Conca (which hosts over 200 newly developed routes of all grades) this new refugi is well located for access to Terradets, Collegats, Col de Nargo and Tres Ponts. All these areas are covered in Lleida Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada. For all the latest news on developments on the crags surrounding Abella de la Conca and for progress reports on the new Abella Refugi you can follow their facebook page at www.facebook.com/abellaclimb. Call round in November with some sandpaper or a paint brush and you can earn a free cup of coffee! Reported 9th October 2013

Photo: This is the ad for our place which will go in the next LLEIDA CLIMB Guidebook due early 2014.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Autumn Bouldering Competition at Climb North East in Ferryhill on Friday 18th October - 5:00pm - 10.00pm
This autumn CNE brings you a fantastic one night event, with a revised format. Climbers can attempt 25 qualifying problems graded F3a-F7c. The top 5 male & female competitors will go through to a final of world cup style problems.
The problems will be set by British Champion Dave Barrans. The normal fees will apply on the day with an extra £1 to enter the competition. The scorecards can be picked up from the desk (which will be used for the raffle).
Categories: Adult 16+ / Vets 45+ / Under 16

Qualification 5:00pm - 8:00pm
25 problems graded between F3a-F7c. Following the finish of the qualifications, the scores will be tallied and the category winners will be decided. However, prizes will be allocated after the finals in one big send off.

Final - 8:30pm - 9:30pm
The top 5 male and female competitors go through to the finals ready to test themselves against world cup style problems

Prize Giving and Raffle - 9:30pm - 10:00pm
Overall winners receive prizes.
All competitors who submit a scorecard will be entered into the super raffle.

 

Details about more up and coming events can be found here.

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Summer Boulder Ladder Season come to a close. The final summer boulder ladder has ended at Climb North East in Ferryhill and the scores are in. Congratulations to all the category winners David Spowart, Alison Monks, Reece Paterson and Sidonie Graham. The prizes for the podium winners will be allocated tomorrow. In the meantime, the round 4 raffle winners are as follows: The Fox Cub Meal for two - Ian Gate, Lifestyle Fitness Spennymoor 1 Month Membership - And Emery, Gladiator Nutrition Supplement Superstore Products - James Turner, Hangar 18 Alpaca Socks - Jade Prest. Please collect your prizes from reception at Climb North East. Reported 25th September 2013

1 David Spowart Adult Male 1260
2 Martin Parker Adult Male 1246
3 Will W Welsh Adult Male 1210
       
1 Alison Monks Adult Female 982
2 Karin Magog Adult Female 951
3 Harriet Ridley Adult Female 899
       
1 Reece Paterson Under 16 Male 926
2 Kieren Paterson Under 16 Male 902
3 Jake Plant Under 16 Male 782
       
1 Sidonie Graham Under 16 Female 740
2 Vicky Ward Under 16 Female 398
3 Caitlin Wombwell Under 16 Female 229
       
1 Steve Crowe Vet Male 833
2 Stu Ferguson Vet Male 519
3 Graham Ward Vet Male 478
       
1 Ben Patterson Staff 1238
2 Kevin Milburn Staff 999
3 Philip Wombwell Staff 857

 

 

 

 

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La Sportiva Event at Sunderland Climbing Centre.  Saturday 21st of September is definitely a date for the diary with a La Sportiva boot demo, open competition, bouldering masterclasses by Leah Crane, and lots of fun challenges and grand prize draw giving away over £700 worth of prizes on the day! The all day event is supported by La Sportiva, Petzl and Beal. Tickets are £6 per member and stocks are limited. The fun begins at 10am...

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Crag Lough has recently enjoyed an autumn clean up. Many thanks to everyone involved in another successful event. "A massive thank you to everyone who attended. Despite the poor forecast the turnout was really good and amazingly the weather held out with essentially no rain on Saturday! Loads of good work was done and another clutch of routes improved and few more brought back from obscurity. The weather was great on Sunday with loads of routes getting ticked, some for what may be the first time in years. Particular thanks go to those who helped out with the barbecue and breakfast, Liam and Rich for helping with some of the preparative work and to Rob and the BMC for supporting the event." Mark Anstiss
Here is a summary of routes that have been cleaned:

Route 2 (all vegetation removed from Chimney, alternative direct start cleaned out),
Pinnacle Crack,
Hadrian’s East,
Crescent Climb,
Hadrian’s Highway
(almost all vegetation on east side of Hadrian’s Buttress removed).
Cleaned by Graeme Armstrong and Pete Forbes

Evasion groove. Cleaned by John Spencer

Tarzan,
Tarzan’s Mate,
Jane.
Cleaned by Adrian Wilson.

Jezebel,
Hari Kiri.
Possibility of harder RH variation to Hari Kiri also cleaned.
Cleaned by Bob McAdam, John Wilson and Sarah Hawker.

Sinister Corner.
Two new independent lines either side of Sinister Corner also cleaned and ascended.
Cleaned by Mark Anstiss, Dave Chalmers and Pete Forbes.

Dexterity. Cleaned by Chris Down
Deep Gully (A very useful descent, Mod). Dug out by Liam Dervey
Abseil Wall,
Spuggies Gully.
Cleaned by Richard Alderton

Y Climb. Cleaned By John Doughty.
Possible direct start uncovered by John Vaughan

Grad’s Groove. Cleaned by John Vaughan

Neglect. Given a good brushing by John Vaughan

Great Chimney. Cleaned by John Dalrymple

Many Buttresses are now completely clean, with traffic they ought to stay that way, particularly at the western end of the crag


 

Crag Lough                                                                                                           Photo (C) Steve Crowe

 

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New Routes for Sunderland Wall All the 23m routes are to be reset by Mark "Zippy" Pretty during the last week of August 2013. The 23m section will be closed for stripping on Saturday 24th August and will remain closed until the new routes have been set. Keep up to date with all that's happening at The Original Sunderland Wall on their web site: sunderlandwall.co.uk. Reported 20th August 2013

   

 

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Franco Cookson has finally climbed the "Mono Wall Project". Danby Crag on the North York Moors has been the scene of many entertaining exploits over the last five years but Franco has finally soloed the blank looking wall by an audacious little finger mono sequence! " I can now die a happy man. 5 years of Moors development finally came to a head today, as I set out on the Mono Wall, with only a pair of shorts, a helmet, chalk and some shoes. Conditions were terrible..." You can read the full account of the ascent of Psykovsky's Sequins  on Franco's blog here. Franco has proposed an outrageous grade of E10 7a which has caused a bit of a stir on UK Climbing! In an interview with Ian Parnell at Climb Magazine Franco had this to say "The wall starts off with three ring finger monos in a row. The feet get progressively worse...   The central crux section is the hardest boulder problem I've ever climbed, so it was a bit sketchy to try... The conditions were really bad, so the top bit was just simply terrifying... "  read the full Climb Magazine interview here  Reported 2nd August 2013

Psykovsky's Sequins E10 7a         Photo Copyright Jake Hampshire.

 

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Berryhill Crag in Northumberland - No Access on Saturday 10th August 2013. This is a one off restriction of climbing at Berryhill crag due to family circumstances. "We were climbing at Berryhill  and were talking with the Farmer. Their daughter is getting married on the 10th of August and there will be a Marquee in one of the fields. As a result there will be no access to Berryhill on that day for climbers." reports Tony McMeekin    Reported 22nd July 2013

 

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Sunderland Climbing Centre will be closed on Monday 22nd July for staff training. Back to business as usual from Tuesday 23rd July 2013. (Monday - Friday 12pm – 10pm. Saturday & Sunday 10am – 6pm) Reported 21st July 2013

 

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Six Weeks of Unlimited Climbing at ClimbNorthEast. This summer Climb North East are offering a unique 6 week special pass which runs from Monday 22nd July 2013 until Sunday 1st September 2013 and offers unlimited climbing. Ideal for those who have entered the summer ladder! (Terms & Conditions: Prices excludes membership (required to climb as an adult/youth or to supervise a child) this is an annual fee of £3.50. Adult members can sign in and take responsibility for 2 children/novice climbers. All children under 14 must be supervised by an adult member. All adults and youths that wish to climb/supervise, that have no experience, must complete an induction, call for bookings. Youths must have a registration form
completed and signed by an adult. Prices exclude shoe hire. Unlimited climbing excludes coaching academy and kids classes.)

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The Indian Face (E9) has been repeated by James "Caff" McHaffie (and Calum Musket... wait and George Ulrich).  With the confidence of his recent ascent of Gribbin Wall Climb (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw James found himself contemplating an attempt on Indian Face (E9) up on Cloggy (Clogwyn Du'r'Arddu). After his epic failed attempt on Masters Wall in the summer of 2000 where he climbed off route and brushed too close to death, it is incredible that Caff would contemplate climbing on this wall again! "At the base a few friends have come up to the cliff .... Asking the time my gut turns as they say it’s 13.20, a mear 40 mins before George arrives I was hoping for 2 hours to decide...  I’ve never been on a climb with so many ‘almost holds’ for both hands and feet where it ‘s easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move could become a 6b move." James from his blog. Read the full account of Caff's ascent in his own words on his blog here: www.jamesmchaffie.com. Update: Calum Muskett has made the 6th ascent of The Indian Face followed swiftly by George Ulrich who has just made the 7th ascent of this classic cloggy challenge and extremely popular Extreme Rock tick. We will stop reporting ascent after the 10th!  Updated 11th July 2013

 

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Its Summer Boulder Ladder Season again. The summer boulder ladders start soon at all the local walls with Durham Climbing Centre being first off the mark with their ladder commencing on Friday 31st May 2013 with a set of  fiendishly technical problems set by James Hunter and Paul Ogden! The first round at  Climb North East at Ferryhill starts the following Friday on the 7th June 2013. The summer boulder ladder at ClimbNewcastle runs from Friday 21st June until Friday 30th August 2013. Full details of all the local ladders can be found on our events page. Sunderland Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Series round one comprises of 30 problems over three days, from opening time on Friday 12th July until the doors close on Sunday 14th July, which will be set by the in house team. All scorecards, which cost only £1, will be entered into a raffle that will be drawn on Sunday afternoon. See you there?  Updated 10th July 2013

 

Click these images for more information.                                                                                                                        Photos © Steve Crowe

 

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Sunderland Wall. The bouldering wall has been stripped. It will be completely reset and open again for action by Wednesday evening. Reported 9th July 2013

 

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Scottish Sports Climbs by the SMC. It has certainly taken a long time to mature but Scottish Sport Climbing has finally come of age and the definitive Scottish Sports Climbs by the Scottish Mountaineering Club is out now and selling at £28 from all the usual climbing guidebook outlets as well as direct from cordee. Andy Nisbet coordinated this guide which was edited jointly by Rab Anderson and Brian Davison and written by 18 authors. So now we have all the best sports climbing in Scotland together in one volume covering the Central Belt to Shetland and Arisaig to Aberdeen. 344 pages to cover over 100 crags and more than 1300 bolted routes (grades range from 3 to 9a) on a huge variety of rock types using 50 photo diagrams and many excellent action photographs. Also described (for the first time in print) are Scotland's three dry tooling crags. Dave Macleod has written a very interesting and personal reflection on Sports Climbing in Scotland on his onlineclimbingcoach.blog  "The only negative on offer from Scottish sport climbing is, of course, the midge. Just remember that the wind direction is as important as the rain when you look at the forecast. Choose a crag exposed to a breeze on the day, and you’re sorted." Dave Macleod. Reported 24th May 2013  

Ian Taylor on The Prow (7c), Goat Crag, Gruinard. Photo © Richie Betts

 

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BMC North East Summer Gathering. The June gathering of climbers in the BMC North East Area  will take place on Thursday 6 June 2013, starting at 7.30pm, at the Newcastle Climbing Centre. Following the successful Crag Lough clean up  last year it is proposed to repeat the event again this year with the BMC providing a BBQ and Beer! It is also expected that another similar event may be held up at Ravensheugh this summer if there is enough willing volunteers. As usual this is an open meeting for anyone interested in climbing to attend and have there say. More details regarding this event can be found on the BMC Community website. Reported 18th May 2013

Crag Lough cleanup 2013 

Photo © Steve Crowe

 

 

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Winners! Congratulations to Paul Ogden and Kate Watson winners of a tense final at the Durham Climbing Centre Spring Bouldering Competition. The 20 qualifiers were great fun with a good mix of technical and powerful problems. The final was contested on six further excellent challenges, three each for the male and female. All the boulder problems were set by Gaz Parry with the help of James Hunter. Over £60 was raised from donations for Climbers Against Cancer which DCC will top up to £100. Full results from Durham Climbing Centre website soon. Reported 11th May 2013

Male Final
1st Paul Ogden
2nd Peter Stephenson
3rd Jonah Vinsome
4th Ben Dawson
5th Jens Signer
6th Will Chamberlain

Female Final
1st Kate Watson
2nd Alison Monks
3rd Karin Magog / Joanne Quinan
5th Mairi Teasdale

 

Winners Kate Watson and Paul Ogden.                              Photos © Steve Crowe

 

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Jordan Buys climbs 9a at Malham. Last week Jordan Buys made the third ascent of Steve McClures ten year old route Rainshaddow which had its 9a grade confirmed by Adam Ondra two years ago. Jordan first tried the route in 2011 and was getting close to redpointing it in 2012 but the terrible weather thwarted his ambitions. As the weather improved an injury hampered any further attempts. Jordan created the crux moves on his board so he could train specifically for the route even when the crag wasn't in best condition. Keith Sharples wrote this report on UK Climbing "Jordan's ascent of Rainshadow, the third after Adam Ondra's second ascent in 2011, is the first repeat of a Steve McClure F9a by a Brit - a worthy prize and one which a number of top sport-climbing Brits have been vying for some time now." Jordan had this to says about his ascent during an interview with Alex Messenger of the BMC "It is smack bang in the middle of Malham Cove in Yorkshire. It's about 20-odd metres long and extends Raindogs, a classic 8a. It is some of the best rock I have ever climbed on; if any small section of it was a route or boulder problem on it's own then it would be well sought after! As it is, you get one big classy beast." You can read the full interview with Jordan on The BMC website. On his 8a.nu score card Jordan simply commented "The best climbing day of my life so far!"  Reported 10th May 2013

Enjoying the moment. Jordan Buys just before his belay asked "What are you jumping on next?"

 

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New Hard Trad Route at Kilnsey by Nik Jennings - Exodus E8 6c Climb Warlord Direct to the thread then instead of moving right into the groove/corner of Warlord continue direct up the bulging face to finish as for Smarter Martyr/Massala Martyr.
first ascent by Nik Jennings 10th May 2013. Nik had this to say on UKB "I've kind of lost perspective on how hard the first boulder problem is because I've done it so many times, but a friend did it while I was trying the route and thought it was Font 7b. If it is Font 7b then the second boulder problem would be comfortably Font 7c/+ territory, it's much harder than the start. Anyway I don't know if those numbers and details add up to E8" The full story can be found here on UK Bouldering.
Reported 10th May 2013

 

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More Sad News - Bowden Doors. Dan Varian has put up a few new problems at Bowden Doors recently but has commented on his Beastmaker Blog that Bowden Doors is becoming a victim of its own popularity. Dan reflects "Its no crime covering a boulder in chalk, but leaving it there after you go expecting people to appreciate finding problems in this state is thoughtless at best." He goes on to say "...sometimes if its quite glassy sandstone a thin layer of chalk can help but on the grainy rock at Bowden Doors its a case of the less chalk the better as it means the rocks pores can bite the skin and even absorb a bit of sweat."  Then on a more positive note Dan continues "the rest of the county is unaffected pretty much and there are dozens and dozens of crags on much better rock to pick from, many of which need traffic to keep them clean, or do it to give Bowden a bit of breathing space." Read his full article on his Beastmaker Blog. Reported 9th May 2013

Brushing the chalk off Working Class.

Photo © Dan Varian collection

 

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The Infamous Ornithology Tree has Finally Fallen Down. Peak Scar is a superb and accessible summer evening venue, especially early in the summer before the trees come into leaf. "Way back one summer evening in the early 1970's I borrowed the Green North York Moors guide from the local library and Peak Scar was one of the first crags I visited. I found the crag easily enough but found it trickier to suss out the climbs! I sat down on a convenient block below the first clean wall of steep and imposing limestone looking for the obvious jutting feature of Pianississimo. After quite some time I began to realise that I was sat on it!  Well a similar feat has befallen the aged tree on Ornithology"  reports Steve Crowe. Ornithology, which was graded Severe when the tree was still there, crossed the huge roof by scrambling up the old tree. Well the tree has now joined the battleship on the ground at the bottom of the crag. "The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down. I found it rotting on the floor when I went down for a look to see if the crag was dry recently, what a shame." Sam Marks Reported 8th May 2013

Matthew Ferrier up the tree on Ornithology, before its final demise!  Photo (c) Sam Marks  The Tree on the ground and Ornithology, without the tree.  Photos (c) Simon Caldwell 

 

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Gaz Parry is setting for the Spring Boulder Competition at Durham Climbing Centre. A one day event on Saturday 11th May 2013 from 1pm onwards. Finals at 6pm. All 20 qualifying problems and 6 final problems will be set by British Bouldering Team Member Gaz Parry. All day fun, BBQ, Table Tennis Tournament, Raffle, Live DJ and much more! Full details from Durham Climbing CentreDetails of all the up and coming events can be found on our events page here. Reported 8h May 2013

 

 

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Climb North East Junior Bouldering Ladder 2013 - Round Three.
This competition which takes place at
Climb North East is suitable for juniors aged from 7 up to 14. Over 12 weeks there will be 3 rounds, each round set with 30 specifically designed problems suitable for children with shorter reach in mind. Each round of problems will be up for just under 4 weeks where each competitor will have chance to try the problems as many times as they wish. Children will also be introduced to the bouldering ladder in the regular kids sessions and the coaching academy session on a Thursday. There will be 4 age categories, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12 and 13-14. There will no extra cost to enter this competition, just the normal entrance fee (and optional £1.00 donation) All scores will be recorded and can be viewed on this page once the competition has started. The points system will be 11 points for flash (1st attempt) and 10 points anytime after. The rules for the competition will be up in the centre and if there is anything you don't understand feel free to ask at the reception. http://www.climbnortheast.co.uk/events/junior-bouldering-ladder-2013/index.php  "In connection with the competition we are trying to raise awareness for CAC (Climbers against cancer) and hopefully raise some funding to help this wonderful cause. Check out the website at www.climbersagainstcancer.org. Everyone who would like to get involved in the competition will need a scorecard and this is where we are asking for a £1.00 donation to help." Kevin Milburn, Climb North East manager. Reported 8h May 2013

Round 3
Friday 10th May - Wednesday 5th June 2013

Junior_bouldering_ladder_climb_north_east

 

 

 

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There's Less than a Week to Go to ASBO 13.  The ClimbNewcastle Annual Spring Boulder Open (aka ASBO), the highlight of the North East Competition scene, is a competition with a difference. It enjoys the format and the fun of the Winter Bouldering Series during the day and then adds a spectacular final in the evening. ASBO 13 takes place on Friday 3rd May 2013 and you can enter the fun competition any time between 12 and 8:30pm and/or come down to spectate from 9pm for the finals. Entering the ASBO costs nothing more than your normal entry fee. Plus... you get a free ASBO 13 Outdoor Research t-shirt if you are one of the first 200 through the door! ClimbNewcastle and the 200+ competitors would like to thank all the sponsors of the Annual Spring Boulder Open: Outdoor Research, Scarpa, Volx Holds, Deuter and Mark Savage Photography for making this spectacular event possible. Details of all the up and coming events can be found on our events page here Reported 28th April 2013

ASBO 13 at Climb Newcastle

 

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Flying visit to Font - Air France Foul up! Sunderland strong man and popular route setter Paul Ogden has recently returned from a fantastic fortnight in Fontainebleau in a foul mood! Rather than take his partner and 8 month old child overland Paul decided that he would drive out with his gorgeous German Shepherd Bena for company while Joanne and baby Freddie would enjoy a luxurious flight using Air France. However when they tried to travel home Air France conspired to make life difficult for him and his young family. Joanne and baby Freddie were, incredibly, booted off their return flight despite having reservations to allow an "Air France Club Member" to take their seat! Joanne had to endure an overnight stay in a "grubby" hotel in Paris and then had to be up early and travel back across Paris to the airport to be ready for another flight the next day. Air France has since apologised and offered compensation but Paul understandably stated firmly to the staff at the gate "I don't want Air France's money, I want Joanne and Freddie to fly tonight on their reserved flight! I want my son and his mother safely home in their own beds so I don't have any more stress before my long drive north tomorrow." Check out the Air France official website...families and children are priority... is that a joke? Once he has recovered Paul will be resetting the Black circuit at Durham Climbing Centre next week. Reported 25th April 2013

Photo: Mandarin 8a, rocher oisseaux

Paul in a better mood climbing Mandarin 8a at Rocher Oisseaux      Photo (C) Paul Ogden collection

 

 

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Free Bootcamp with Erica Helsinki. Come and try out the fat blasting bootcamp  in the heart of Sunderland for free! Erika Helsinki is bringing her super effective HIT Bootcamp to Sunderland City Centre during April 2013. Duration: 30 minutes (trust me, it's long enough!) Location: Mowbray Park (meeting point is the band stand) Cost: £5 pay-as-you-go or £39 per month (+ first session is free!) Reported 22nd April 2013

 

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New Moors Bouldering Guide Out Soon. With mint conditions returning all across the North York Moors, the finishing checks are being carried out now, prior to the publication of Lee Robinson's forthcoming Bouldering Guide which is dedicated to the delights of climbing on the North York Moors. "The guide is getting very close to completion so you better be quick and polish off those projects pronto. I’m sending you some screen grabs to give folks an idea of how it's going to look. Oh, by the way, Mike Adams has put up another 8a at Arnecliff Woods, it's a lovely place!" Lee Robinson. For the latest news visit the Betaguides blog here. Ravenswick is a very accessible roadside quarry with a quick drying limestone wall that provides superb short day or evening training. Details of climbing and bouldering at Ravenswick can be found here on climbonline.co.uk. Reported 18th April 2013

For more Moors info visit the Betaguides blog here.

 

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ClimbNewcastle have just finished resetting the pink circuit and at Font 5a -7a they are bound to be very popular, however be warned they provide a much stiffer challenge than the recent excellent green circuit! Friday night is free coaching night at ClimbNewcastle and this week Jamie is on duty and is armed with all the beta! More details about the ASBO (The 5th Annual Spring Bouldering Open) on the 3rd May 2013 can be found on our events page here Reported 12th April 2013

Don't worry the new pinks wont be this hard!  

Photo (C) Mark Savage Photography

 

 

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Youth Bouldering Competition at Sunderland Climbing Centre. Following on from the success of the Easter entertainment, Sunderland Climbing Centre at Southwick is hosting its first dedicated youth bouldering competition over the Spring Bank Holiday weekend 3rd - 6th May 2013. There will be 30 interesting and challenging problems up to 7a+. Get training now on the popular new purple circuit 6a - 6c+ that was set this week by local technician Steve Crowe!  More information about up and coming events and special offers can be found on their website at: www.sunderlandclimbingcentre.co.uk. Reported 11th April 2013

Sunderland Youth Boulder Comp poster 2013.

 

 
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More new climbs at Sunderland Wall. Beth Liddle and Andy Bell have been having a fun time creating some entertaining challenges on the bouldering wall. "The bouldering wall has been completely reset and features the return of the volumes to the bouldering section also a stamina challenge doing laps on a black circuit of the roof and a Dyno challenge on Panel 8!" reports Andy Bell. Some new routes on the 23m leading section are coming soon! Don't forget that the popular Female Climbing Club is running every Friday night 6-8pm. For more details contact reception at Sunderland Wall. Full details of all the up and coming events around the region can be found here. Reported 10th April 2013

Photo: Holds ready for Beth and Andy tomorrow, Fun times :)

New climbs at Sunderland Wall.

 
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New Yellow Circuit at Sunderland Climbing Centre set by Karin Magog! Sunderland's newest climbing venue is getting some new circuits this week. Karin Magog has set some fine tests of technique and flexibility with a challenging circuit. Theses new yellow problems are in the range of font 6b-7a. Another strong local, Mickey Page, will be resetting the green and blue circuit this week in time for the Easter Weekend competition.  More information about up and coming events and special offers can be found on their website at: www.sunderlandclimbingcentre.co.uk. Reported 26th March 2013

Yellows Font 6b-7a

   

 
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Woman's Night at Sunderland Wall. Starting 5th April 2012. Every Friday night 5-7pm with Bethany Liddle.  " You guys are still more than welcome to climb at the wall, however I will be teaching a class for women only from 5-7pm!" Bethany. For more details contact reception at Sunderland Wall. Meanwhile Andrew Bell has been busy setting a new black F5 route up the side of the 23m. Full details of all up and coming events can be found here. Reported 21st March 2013

Photo © Steve Crowe

 

 
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BMC North East Area Meeting. Everyone is welcome! Tonight's meeting will take place in The GRETNA GREEN HOTEL on the Great North Road (A167) near Newton Aycliffe at 7.30pm. Note that the late change of venue is due to the original venue being unavailable tonight! More information regarding the Local Areas can be found via the BMC website Reported 21st March 2013

 
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The 2012/13 Axis Winter Bouldering Series at ClimbNewcastle  came to an end on Friday night with a fearsomely contested final round. In the senior female category, Alison Monks saw off the final push from 'uberschnell' to retain her ladies title in fine style. Sid Graham won the juniors for the 4th consecutive year, sadly with no competition, but some outstanding scores, and Sid's forthcoming rise up to the senior females should make for an interesting prospect in years to come. Sian Oakley, cover girl of the Climb Newcastle brochure, and a close contender in previous years in the adult females, moved up into the vets with a resounding victory.

In the male juniors, Owen Burn's increasingly impressive scores saw him take the title for the first time, edging past Jack Graham in the final rounds. In the vets, Martin Waugh returned for a third title, now a biennial occurance, whilst in the new over 60s supervets (iron hip) category, Tommy Smith stylishly cranked his way to victory, winning himself a (toy) car and another E9 flat cap with which he is inseparable. Which leaves the male seniors, Joe Wilson sealing his first title with another great performance, several of the Climb Newcastle 'junior squad' biting at his heels. Well done to all of our winners.

There was no jackpot cash prize for a full house of problems given away this time though, the setting team finally identifying Joe's achilles heel with a crux slab problem that was notorious even before the competition began after setter Chris Graham received a mild concussion and split lip after thinking himself able to climb it in his trainers (that's why we insist on the use of climbing shoes in our centre!). Joe completed all but the slab, which was only climbed by youngster Pete Stephenson in a fine effort - Joe didn't give up easily though, climbing til his palm bled from trying the crux press move!

So another memorable year in the WBS history books. A big thanks to sponsors Axis round edges who provided their always innovative and interesting holds for the competition series.

All eyes are now on the Climb Newcastle Annual Spring Boulder Open, ASBO '13, on May 3rd which after such a great winter series is unlikely to disappoint... and in the meantime the centre is holding a fun competition over the Easter weekend, with problems ready to try at 12 midday on Good Friday. Full details of all the forthcoming events at ClimbNewcastle can be found here.
Reported 19th March 2013

 
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The Axis Winter Bouldering Series at ClimbNewcastle comes to an end this Friday 15th March 2013. Managing Director Chris Graham had this to say " The Axis Winter Bouldering Series certainly attracts some truly great climbers but is essentially a fun day out, taking on the challenge of our crazy competition problems. The Winter Bouldering Series here at Climb Newcastle is one of the UK's biggest climbing events, don't miss out!" The current scores can be found here just scroll down the page.  Reported 13th March 2013

The final round of the Winter Bouldering Series this friday

 
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Sunderland Climbing Centre is open now! The newest venue to open in the north east offers great bouldering and lots of routes too. Sunderland Climbing Centre manager Mark Goodings says "We provide excellent facilities for all our customers with an on site café, viewing gallery and specialist gear shop and our team of qualified and experienced instructors are on hand to deliver taster sessions and introductory courses in both bouldering and roped climbing." More information about up and coming events and special offers can be found on their website at: www.sunderlandclimbingcentre.co.uk. Reported 13th March 2013

Sunderland Climbing Centre, Kings Road, Southwick, Sunderland.  0191 549 7777

 
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Mixed Emotions at Kay Nest Crag. The highlight of 2012 was Mike Adams making the first ascent of Mixed Emotions 8b+ at Kay Nest Crag, this is the hardest climb ever reported on the North York Moors! You can watch Mike climbing Mixed Emotions here: http://vimeo.com/53810572. Mike has already been busy this year adding the first 8a to the excellent bouldering circuit that is being developed up on the Incline; Circle My Demise is a bold adventure on the No Prisoners block. To keep up to date with the latest bouldering developments on the North York Moors keep your eye on Lee Robinson's excellent blog here http://betaguides.blogspot.co.uk/. For a round up of events up in Northumberland during 2012 and breaking news for 2013 watch Mark Savage's website: http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.co.uk/. Finally "Steve Dunning's Second Coming at Goldsborough always fascinated me, when Steve chatted me through it I could never get my head round smearing in a roof. But that's what you do!" Dan Varian has written a very entertaining summary of very busy 2012 on the beastmaker.co.uk website here: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news. Reported 20th January 2013

Mike Adams on the first ascent of Mixed Emotions 8b+

 
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The Bumper Fun Book of Climbing is an really entertaining mix of short stories, poems, problems pages and other bits and pieces all climbing related. There's even a photographic guide for aspirant bumblies, a year's training plan and a psychometric test to determine your climbing stereotype. I loved the new British Climbing Dictionary e.g. Areete: (Geordie Sl. ) climb when ready; Avoid: don't look down, and the Shortly Before The Incident quotes e.g.''Of course it'll pull down clear of that crack.'' The short stories were my favourite though and really made me laugh, they're a 'slightly' exaggerated version of a real-life climbing situation. My other favourites were The Rock Doctors problem pages which certainly provided some extremely useful advice for common climbing situations (what do you do with that second who is always leaving your gear behind in the crack? You'll have to buy the book to find out!) It's a great book for dipping in and out of or for taking away on holiday and had me sitting laughing away. The two authors have done a great job and I can't recommend it highly enough. You can buy The Bumper Fun Book of Climbing from www.cliperati.com or it is also available via Amazon Marketplace and from www.lulu.com , as an ebook on Amazon Kindle store, and now as an epub version to work on other non-Kindle readers from www.ivanovella.com/books. You can read all our reviews here.  Reviewed by Karin Magog 10th January 2013

Dave Hume is Proud to be a Bumbly!

 

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Ladies Coaching Evenings with Suzan Dudink is back! ClimbNewcastle coach Suzan Dudink is re-starting her dedicated ladies coaching sessions on Tuesday 15th January, and running every Tuesday night at the centre thereafter from 7-8:30pm. The coaching follows the successful formula followed by Suzan before she paused the sessions in 2010 to go on maternity leave... The session is aimed at adult (18+) females who have climbed before and who are psyched to improve and to find out their strengths and weaknesses. Each session will have a theme, for example big moves, footwork, endurance, dynamic climbing..., and will involve an element of strength/core training to finish with in the Climb Newcastle training room. The sessions cost £10 (including your climb before/afterwards) and booking is essential - contact the ClimbNewcastle reception on (0191) 276 2174. Originally from Holland, Suzan Dudink, is one of the strongest female climbers operating worldwide, and one of only a handful to reach the font 8a+ grade. More details from ClimbNewcastle. Reported 8th January 2013

More details from ClimbNewcastle.

 

 

 

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The Halfway Scores. Current leaders in the Sunderland Wall Winter Boulder Ladder (updated 6/1/2013 at 5pm) are listed below! Keep up to date, visit Sunderland Wall on Facebook. The reset for Round Four is on Friday. Reported 7th January 2013
 

 
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January Sales are Now On! The sale rails are out at ClimbNewcastle! Get down quick to grab a bargain - up to 70% off clothing, special prices on shoes, £10 kids clothing, bargain buckets and loads more special offers to grab in the shop. "Sale must end January 7th, or we'll go bankrupt!" Andy Earl. There is a new pink circuit to try too.  There is lots happening over at Durham Climbing Centre but you will need to be quick if you want to get 10% off a season Pass as the offer only lasts until 7th January 2013. Full details of more offers at Durham Climbing Centre here. Sunderland Climbing Centre ANNUAL PASS OFFER For a limited period Sunderland Climbing Centre are offering  Annual Passes for just £150! This entitles you to unlimited climbing at Sunderland Climbing Centre for the year. For further details please contact Newcastle Climbing Centre.  Reported 2nd January 2013

 

 
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Still unsure what to get your favourite climbing partner for Christmas? Or for yourself with that gift cash! Here is a selection of books that we have recently got our hands on and are soon to be reviewed. The Bumper Book of Fun Climbing by Dave Hume and Mike Blood is focused on all that is best about climbing and even comes with a fully personalised objective based annual training programme. We are already following it here at Climbonline Towers. Buy The Bumper Fun Book of Climbing here now (it is also available via Amazon Marketplace and from www.lulu.com , as an ebook on Amazon Kindle store, and now as an epub version to work on other non-Kindle readers from www.ivanovella.com/books.). A Canvas of Rock by Mark Radtke is an engaging autobiography which is focused on the Yorkshire new routing scene but also explores Rad's trips to Europe, America and a year new routing in Australia. Read more about Rad and his autobiography here. Tarragona Climbs by Pete O'Donovan & Dani Andrada. Tarragona Climbs is a superb selective guidebook to the popular sport climbing venues (and some new "secret" crags too) in the Catalan province of Tarragona in Northwest Spain. Written by renowned photographer Pete O'Donovan in conjunction with one of the world's leading rock climbers Dani Andrada. Available from climbing shops or direct from Cordee. The Ariege is a superb all year round multi sport area in the French Pyrenees where Skiing, Walking, Wild Swimming, River Rafting, Caving and Climbing can all be enjoyed. The latest climbing guide from Rockfax by Chris Craggs with locals John & Anne Arran covers the rock climbing and bouldering in this compact area in great detail. More information from the Rockfax website. Full reviews of all these books will be posted on our Reviews page soon. Reported 21st December 2012

 
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Eden Rock - Winter Bouldering Series. The first annual Winter Bouldering Series at Eden Rock is sponsored by Rock+Run. There will be 30 problems from easy to very hard. Each of the 4 rounds finish with a prize filled raffle, giving everyone a chance to win something. The best 3 scores will counted towards the overall series. Dates for your diary are: Thursday 20th Dec 2012, Thursday 24th Jan 2013, Thursday 21st Feb 2013, Thursday 21st March 2013. Time: 4pm - 9pm Full details on the Eden Rock website. Reported 20th December 2012

 
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Keith Sharples 2013 Climbing Calendar. There is still time to order a superb calendar and/or year planner from Keith Sharples and get it in time for Christmas. The deadlines for UK based deliveries are:
First Class: Thursday 20th, Special Delivery: Saturday 22nd December 2012. to see the images in Climbing 2013 click here or to see the pages click through here. Visit Keith Sharples Photography now and place your order. 
Reported 19th December 2012

Climbing Calendar 2013

 
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Yorkshire's Best Kept Secret: North York Moors New Routes Boom. The North Yorkshire Moors has been a hive of activity over the last few months. With work on Lee Robinson's new bouldering guide nearing completion there has been a huge interest in the newly emerging bouldering venues across the moors. Follow Lee's betaguides blog for the latest bouldering news. Franco Cookson has been at the cutting edge of the recent new routing activities on the North York Moors and has even discovered and developed a completely new crag on the coast near the Ravenscar Hotel called Smuggler's Terrace. You can read all about Franco's exploits on his blog. Dave Warburn nearly overlooked his stunning E6 arête at Otterhill Bastion.  Tony Marr and friends have been new routing for over 60 years and he is still finding unrecorded gaps to fill at Ingleby Incline and Peak Scar. Steven Phelps discovered and developed Duck Crag and Thimbleby Crag. Sam Marks has been busy scrutinising the remaining gaps at Thorgill Crag and Round Crag. All the recent activities can be found by following the links here. Finally, Franco has written about Yorkshire's Best Kept Secrets for climb magazine. Reported 2nd November 2012

Otter Hill Eliminate   Photo (C) Dave Warburton

 

 
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SUNDERLAND CLIMBING CENTRE...... Coming Very Soon! Following on from the very successful development in St Marks Church, Byker, Newcastle Climbing Centre and Rockworks Climbing Walls have just announced the development of a brand new - “state of the art” - indoor climbing centre. Situated on the north side of the river in Southwick the climbing centre will house the largest dedicated bouldering wall in the North East together with an area of roped walls and dedicated instructional zone with auto belays. With over 600m2 of indoor climbing and an exciting variety of angles and features the climbing walls are designed to cater for every ability. The centre will also have its own café, specialist gear shop and mezzanine viewing area. It is anticipated that the doors will open to the public early January 2013. For more information about job vacancies check out their website now!  Reported 2nd November 2012

Sunderland Climbing Centre - Bouldering Walls
www.sunderlandclimbingcentre.co.uk

 

 

 

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Carrock Fell 8B. Dan Varian has climbed another hard new problem, this time at the extensive block strewn hillside of Carrock Fell, in Cumbria's Lake District. "The new climb takes on the very thin, 25 degree overhanging face to the right of Leopold von Buch (7C)..." Read the full story with images here on EUKBI. See more of Katie Mundy's photos of Dan climbing Home (8B) here. Reported 1st November 2012

 
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Eden Rock is Coming Soon - New Bouldering Wall in Carlisle. The bouldering walls are built and all the problems are set, Eden Rock is about to open its doors in November just as soon as the overdue matting is delivered and installed. This huge development will change the shape of Cumbrian climbers. The entertainment starts in the Kids Area with the fun castle. The adult area is extensive with slabs, walls, freestanding blocs, overhangs and a huge cave to test the strongest climbers that Cumbria can produce. Even the fittest climbers will find the 10 metre wide, 30 degree overhanging power endurance board challenging with circuits from about 6b through to the awesome Beastmaker Circuit which is graded at 8a.  Eden Rock can be found at 9 Brunel Way, Durranhill Industrial Estate Carlisle CA1 3NQ. Keep your eye on the Eden Rock Facebook Page for the very latest developments. Reported 1st November 2012

Photo: Kids room done,just the mats to go : ) http://instagr.am/p/Qus_AejuhM/ Photo: Done. http://instagr.am/p/QzQS58DuvT/

Keep your eye on the Eden Rock Facebook Page for the very latest developments.

 
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Climb North East: For One Night Only. Twenty Five problems are to be set by GB Team member James Garden for a One Night Competition at Climb North East, Ferryhill on Friday 9th November 2012. Don't miss it! For details regarding all the local winter bouldering series visit our Events Page. Reported 28th October  2012

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Shiatsu Works! Shiatsu is an ancient Japanese physical therapy and system of healing. James is an experienced climber and can adapt his treatment sessions for the unique needs of rock climbers. The positive effects of regular Shiatsu treatments for a climber include using Shiatsu to; reduce muscle fatigue, increase energy levels, improve flexibility and enhance performance. Shiatsu treatments may be delivered before or after a climbing session. Shiatsu Works is based in South Shields and at climbing walls across the North East. James is offering £10 off the usual price of £35.00 until the end of 2012. Check out the Shiatsu on Facebook for more information.   Reported 28th October  2012

   

 Visit Shiatsu on Facebook for more information

 

 

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Tarragona Climbs by Pete O'Donovan & Dani Andrada. Tarragona Climbs is a superb selective guidebook to the popular sport climbing venues in the Catalan province of Tarragona in Northwest Spain. Written by renowned photographer Pete O'Donovan in conjunction with one of the world's leading rock climbers Dani Andrada. The guidebook features eleven different zones, including Siurana, Margalef,Arboli, La Mussara, Montral, Montsant and Vilnova de Prades. El Penitent and Serra de Llaberia are two of the newer areas well worth checking out too. It uses stunning detailed photo diagrams to describe over 2,500 routes from F4 to F9b. That's enough climbing for a lifetime!  Available from climbing shops soon or direct from Cordee. Pete O'Donovan invites you to take a "Tarragona Tango" in this months Climb Magazine, where Pete explains the colourful history of climbing amongst the stunning scenery of the mountains and valleys of Tarragona. "The Catalan province of Tarragona hides one of climbing’s greatest treasures just a stone’s throw from the beaches of the Costa Daurada. This region of rolling hills and forested valleys has established itself as one of the foremost climbing areas in Europe over the past two decades, with some of the world’s finest steep limestone and conglomerate.  Author of the brand new guidebook to the region Pete O’Donovan explores the richness of a place where the old and the new live  proudly together covering an area less than a third the size of the Peak District, the Serra de Prades and Montsant mountain ranges together offer hundreds of sectors and thousands of routes..." an extract from Tarragona Tango by Pete O'Donovan. Read all our reviews here.  Reported 20th October 2012

Tarragona Climbs by Pete O'Donovan & Dani Andrada.

 

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Who is H18 ORR? H18 ORR is an exciting new North East based company dedicated to bringing best performance for ultra light products to the extreme enthusiast. "We are a new company, just opened up our e-store focusing on lightweight products for rock climbers and fell runners." Stu Ferguson. For more information about H18 ORR check out www.h18orr.com  Reported 20th October 2012

 check out www.h18orr.com

 

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Outside In 2012 at Newcastle Climbing Centre. It’s that time again when La Sportiva, Beal & Petzl descend on Newcastle Climbing Centre (at St Marks Church) for the 4th Annual Outside-In Event. All day fun climbing for all ages starts at 12 noon; Fun Competitions, Spot Prizes, La Sportiva Boot Demo, Masterclasses, Raffle and much more. This year sponsored athlete is Neil Gresham who will be on hand throughout the event coaching and offering advice and closing the event with his latest lecture at around 6/6.30pm. All this for only £7.00!

Newcastle Climbing Centre (at St Marks Church)

 

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Who? an illustrated talk by Steve Blake. ClimbNewcastle is Four this October and the highlight of the evening must be the illustrated lecture by Steve Blake. Steve has been at the forefront of development in Northumberland since the 1970's and he is about to expose many of the recently developed gems across The County. Don't miss it. For full details of the Fun Competition and all the other events happening on October 26th at ClimbNewcastle visit their website now. Reported 10th October 2012

Steve Blake. Who?

Who? an illustrated talk by Steve Blake

 

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Climb North East 1st Birthday Party Check the ClimbNorthEast website for full details of Sundays festivities at Ferryhill.

Stacks Image 1721

www.climbnortheast.co.uk

 

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Over the Moors: The Definitive Climbers Guide to Moorland Gritstone 

The toil is over. Martin Kocsis and Ian Carr can finally climb elsewhere. For well over a decade they have examined every moorland nook and cranny and with the help of Niall Grimes have recorded their findings in the latest BMC climbing guide. Over the Moors is more than just a definitive climbers guide, it is a spectacular celebration of all that is best about climbing high up on Kinder and Bleaklow, and down in the Chew Valley. The coverage is extensive encompassing  Kinder, Wimberry, Shining Clough, Standing Stones, Ravenstones, Pule Hill, Shooter’s Nab, Laddow, Rollick Stones, Upperwood, Rob’s Rocks, Wilderness Rocks, Den Lane, Running Hill Pits, West Nab, Hobson Moor, New Mills Torrs. In all 4000 climbs are recorded on over 600 pages. The guide is littered with a kaleidoscope of action photographs which illuminate the breathtaking adventures that await you. Dave Simmonite had to put his camera down and pull on his rock shoes to check out one route where all others had failed! This is a guide for all seasons and all tastes. Rock, ice, bouldering, soloing, sport and even urban floodlit climbs are described all with the same enthusiasm! So many fantastic photographs but the shot of Dave Pegg, totally committed, on page 461 sums up climbing for me, superb. Many years ago I voted against the BMC continuing to publish guide books, how wrong I was! Well done to everyone involved, climbing guidebooks don’t come any better than this. As Mick Ward says in his detailed review on UKC Over the Moors is up there with LLanberis by Paul Williams and Cloggy by Nick Dixon. Over the Moors by Martin Kocsis and Ian Carr will go on to inspire the next generation to explore and develop the many diverse crags all across moorland gritstone and the guide will be remembered fondly long after it has gone out of print so buy your copy now... while you can!

Reviewed by Steve Crowe 11th September 2012

Read sample pages on the BMC website here.

 

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Kendal Mountain Festival Tour at Tyneside Cinema A selection of some of the most inspiring outdoor films ever made, the Best of Kendal Film Tour 2012 includes pulse-pounding tales of snowboarding, basejumping, paragliding, skiing, off-road unicycling, trail biking and climbing in some of the most harsh and unforgiving climates and parts of the globe. Films include The Long Hope from Paul Diffley, XC Snowboarding from Adam Brodie,Medeoz from Guillaume Broust, Revolution One from Dan Heaton, Shortcut from Dave Brown, Vertical Sailing from Sean Villanueva O’ Driscoll and many more.
Date: Wednesday 19th Sep 2012
Time: 20.00
Tickets are available directly from Tyneside Cinema

Reported 11th September 2012

 

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Crag Lough to enjoy an Autumn Clean Up. At recent BMC North East area meetings there have been discussions about a clean-up of Crag Lough. The National Trust (land owner) has been consulted and is supportive of the idea. The crag is an extensive North facing Whin Sill Dolerite escarpment offering over 100 recorded routes the majority of which are in the perennially popular HS to HVS range. Although North facing the rock is generally clean, extremely hard wearing and does not tend to polish. The crag was one of the earliest to be developed in Northumberland and the classics at this fine crag bear comparison with the best outcrop routes anywhere. However over the last few years the crag has fallen out of fashion, with many climbers tending to focus on sandstone outcrops further North in The County. The relative neglect of the Whin Sill crags has resulted in increased vegetation on all but the very most popular routes resulting in the familiar cycle of less attention and further encroachment of vegetation. The vegetation of concern tends to be grass and small shrubs encroaching on ledges and in cracks; unlike on sandstone, lichen formation in the winter months is not a significant problem. The timing of the clean-up towards the end of the season is to allow for the departure of any nesting birds and since the vegetation will not return during the winter months the benefits should be enjoyed throughout next year as well as the closing part of this summer. Unfortunately the erosion at Northumberland sandstone venues is a serious problem, especially on routes in the popular middle grades and it has been argued that that a clean up of Crag Lough may result in more mid-grade climbers making more use of this venue, thus taking some pressure of the sandstone, as well as improving the climbing there for it's own sake.

A date has now been set for the clean-up: 15th – 16th September 2012

The basic proposal is clean-routes on the Saturday and climb on the Sunday with a BBQ at Haltwhistle campsite on the Saturday evening. Beers in the Twice Brewed Inn are optional but recommended!

There will be a meeting art the
Newcastle Climbing Centre (St Marks Church) on Thursday 9th August 2012 for anyone interested in helping out.  Reported Wednesday 25th July 2012

Crag Lough Crag Clean Up 15th – 16th September 2012                                   Photo (c) Steve Crowe

 

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Round Crag update. With dry rock is at a premium at the moment Dave Warburton and friends decided to check out the (ever dry?) venue of Round Crag at Farndale where they managed to plug some of the remaining gaps. Reported Thursday 12th July 2012

 

 

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This Friday is the first of 3 summer socials for 2012 at ClimbNewcastle - these are simply great days to be at the centre - not only is it the change-over day of problems for the summer ladder, but Chris and Andy pull together a bunch of other stuff to have things going on left, right and centre. Here's what you can look forward to this Friday:

New Purple Problems (Ladder Set 3)
If you haven't taken part in the Climb Newcastle Summer Boulder Ladder yet then you're missing out on the great fun of our summer competition sets - there's problems for all abilities so there's no excuses for not getting involved!

Free Massages from Shiatsu Works!
From 3pm, James from Shiatsu Works will be offering FREE 10/ 15 minute taster treatments. An avid climber, James uses his personal experience to tailor treatments to the needs of climbers which has made him popular in the climbing community. Using a combination of shiatsu, acupressure and myofascial techniques, the taster session will see the muscular structure around the neck, shoulders and back worked from the comfort of an ergonomically designed chair. For more details visit the shiatsu works website.

Outdoor Research Special Event
From midday we're running what you could call 'an exercise in getting you all into OR (Outdoor Research) clothing' - Climb Newcastle have sourced some VERY cheap OR stock and will be selling it off this Friday (and over the weekend if there's anything left) - t-shirts and shirts £10, technical jackets and fleeces £25. Too good to miss? Definitely!

Scarpa Boot Demo
Test drive Scarpa's superb range of performance shoes in the main arena from midday.

Film Night Catch-Up
A chance to watch the films shown on out 2011 summer social film nights - running all day in the cafe.

It is, of course, normal entry fee to attend on Friday - come down and enjoy! (Note: Today, Monday, is the l
ast day to try the first set of (purple) summer boulder ladder problems.)  Reported Monday 10th July 2012

ClimbNewcastle

 

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Rock Damage on The North York Moors. Selfish climbers have been leaving their mark on the sandstone outcrops across the North York Moors. Crampons have left scratch marks on classic routes at The Wainstones. While at Scugdale chipped holds have also appeared on two classic climbs; Humbug and The Shelf. Local climbers are asked to keep a watch out and protect our climbs for future generations to enjoy. The Cleveland Mountaineering Club are currently considering what further action can be taken to discourage these inconsiderate actions. Please report any further incidents to The Editor. Update: "Anyone involved with climbing must know that chipping is totally unacceptable... I have however seen first hand the effects of ludicrously over zealous brushing at Earthworks , Thorgill and Roseberry Topping." read Dave Warburton's discussion on UKClimbingReported 2nd July 2012

Click images to enlarge. 

 

 

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The Temperatures are Hotting Up Around the North East. Despite the continued unseasonal weather outdoors (or probably because of it) the Summer Bouldering Ladders are proving very popular across the region. The second round at ClimbNewcastle starts at 12 noon on Friday 29th June, this will run concurrently with the first round until 10th July giving you the opportunity to try both circuits. Meanwhile at Durham Climbing Centre Adam Watson and Mickey Stainthorpe will set new problems for round two which runs from 5pm on Friday 29th June until 27th July. Meanwhile at CLIMB North East you have until the 12th of July to complete the first round with the second round running from the 16th July 2012 until 9th August. All the scores are kept right up to date. Check here to see how everyone is getting on: ClimbNewcastle, Durham Climbing Centre, CLIMB North East.  Reported 27th June 2012

  

 

 

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The climbing ban at Holwick Scar has been lifted. The temporary restriction to Open Access on Holwick Fell has recently been modified by Natural England (NE) so as not to include the climbing crag of Holwick Scar. The restriction was put in place by NE in March 2012 due to a damaging plant pathogen called Phytophthora austrocedrae which was found to be affecting juniper on the fell. The area (which is designated as open access land) has been temporarily closed using NE’s emergency closure powers and initially included Holwick Scar. However following a review of the restricted area, NE has lifted the restriction for some areas of the fell, including the crag of Holwick Scar. Large areas of the fell are still restricted however so please consult the map showing the revised area before planning a walk on the fell. Access to the crag itself is now open again and subject to the same access agreement as before which can be found on the BMC’s Regional Access Database. Read more on the BMC site.  Reported 25th June 2012

Climbing ban at Holwick Scar has been lifted.                                                       Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 

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Yorkshire Limestone: The Big Three. The next edition of Climb has a fantastic main feature about climbing at Malham (Steve McClure), Kilnsey (Stu Littlefair) and Gordale (Steve Crowe and Karin Magog), included is some superb photography and an inspirational list of top ten routes for each venue. It is going on sale on 14th June 2012. Don't miss it! Reported 13th June 2012

Well protected powerful climbing followed by big run outs on rattling rock and already

 I am beginning to understand the meaning of the term

“Gordale Adventure Route”!

 

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Top Rope Day @ Sunderland Wall. The popular Top Rope Day returns to the 23m walls on Monday 11th June 2012. For more details contact Sunderland Wall. Read about more up and coming Events here. Reported 10th June 2012

 

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BMC North East Area Meeting. The next meeting is to be held Wednesday 30th May 2012 at the Newcastle Climbing Centre, St Marks Church House 285 Shields Road, Newcastle Upon Tyne, Tyne and Wear NE6 2UQ. Those BMC members who intend to attend the meeting are welcomed to arrive at the Newcastle Climbing Centre from 1700hrs where they will be able to climb for free as part of the BMC meeting. Members must sign in to the wall on arrival. Meeting will start at 1930hrs. Everyone is welcome to attend and join in with the lively debates, and there will be plentiful and tasty snacks laid on for free. The BMC's CEO Dave Turnbull will be representing the organisation, and you'll be able to ask him anything you like. On the agenda are access developments, crag restorations and the latest updates on local windfarm developments too. Want to know what happens at the BMC Local Area meetings? Reported 15th May 2012

The next BMC North East Area Meeting to be held here on Wednesday 30th May 2012
 

 

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ASBO Time Again. The Climb Newcastle Annual Spring Boulder Open (aka ASBO) is upon us again. ASBO '12 takes place on Friday 4th May 2012 and is expected to be even bigger and better than it's extremely popular predecessors! Full details of all the fun to be had can be found at the Climb Newcastle web site.

ASBO '11 poster

 

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FUN & FREE BOULDER COMP. Newcastle Climbing Centre are hosting another Rockworks Climbing "Fun and Free" Boulder comp on Friday 27th of April from 6pm till 9pm.
As usual there's prizes from Rockworks Climbing as well as goodie bags from Beta Climbing Designs for the winners, as well as a prize draw for all who enter.

Categories for entrants are:
10 and under male, 10 and under Female, 11-15 male, 11-15 female, 16 and over male, 16 and over female. Usual wall entry fee's apply. More details from Newcastle Climbing Centre.
Reported 22nd April 2012

 

 

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Himalayan Extreme for Beginners, The story of first ascent of Gojung 6310m on the Nepal/Tibet border with Mick Fowler in October 2011. Dave Turnbull will present his lecture at Durham School in Durham City on Saturday 21st April. The start time is 7.00pm. Dave will be speaking for about 60-75 mins (max) then there's a raffle and refreshments; all done by about 8.30pm. He will be covering much more than just Nepal "I'm starting with a load of adventurous climbing pictures from Mali, Mozambique, Venezuela, Jordan, Orkney, Yosemite etc so it should be a interesting night for people." It's £7.50 for adults / £4.50 for u18s. All proceeds go to the Durham School Langley Foundation. Tickets available on the door of Durham School lecture theatre (postcode for your sat nav is DH1 4SZ). Reported 20th April 2012

Don't miss this special Dave Turnbull lecture in Durham City

 

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Climb North East Winter Bouldering Ladder Results:  For more details contact Climb North East.

Adult Male
1st - Paul Carruthers - 1166 - Core Fingerboard
2nd - Martin Parker - 1148 - Evolv Chalk Bucket
3rd - Tom Armstrong - 1038 - Climb On Pack

Adult Female
1st - Karin Magog - 777 - Metolius Fingerboard
2nd - Bex Silversides - 670 - Rock Rings
3rd - Ellen Bradshaw - 591 - Climb On Pack

Under 16 Male
1st - Will Welsh - 1023 - Rock Rings, T-shirt and C/0 Pack
2nd - Karve Khalif-Rad - 750 - Evolv Chalk Bucket
3rd - Derek Mangan - 633 - Climb On Pack

Under 16 Female
1st - Sidonie Graham - 512 - Metolius Fingerboard
2nd - Becky-Jo Mangan - 313 - Moon Chalk Bucket
3rd - Zoe Embleton - 55 - Climb On Pack

Vet Male
1st - Stuart Ferguson - 668 - Core Fingerboard
2nd - Richard Davies - 586 - Rock Rings
3rd - Steve Crowe - 541 - Climb On Pack

Vet Female
1st - Melanie Patterson - 490

Prizes can be collected from reception, for full results contact Climb North East.

Next Competition at Climb North East: Spring Bouldering Competition on Friday May 18th is sponsored by Scarpa, there will be 25 problems set by Tom Newman. The event starts at 15:00hrs, scorecards to be handed in before 20:30hrs. There will be a Live Band on between 20:00 - 21:00. Also a Free Raffle and BBQ. Prize Ceremony at 21:00.

Reported 9th April 2012

Karin Magog 1st female at the Climb North East Winter Bouldering Ladder            Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 

 

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The Easter Challenge: 50 problems over 4 days. Climb Newcastle's international team of route-setters, Chris Graham, Suzan Dudink and Andy Earl will be helped by Nigel Callender for The Easter Challenge. There are 50 problems to try between Good Friday and Easter Monday plus an extra 5 bonus problems going up on Easter Sunday morning. Competition runs from 1pm on Good Friday 6th April until 10pm on Easter Monday 9th April. Get down and try 50 problems from fb 3-8a (very easy to very hard). Return  to Climb Newcastle as many times as you like over the weekend. Reported 5th April 2012

Win some goodies including tasty easter eggs!

 

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Sunderland Wall discounted entry today. Only £5.00 entry fee to Sunderland Wall for members all day today (Wednesday 4th April) so get down and check out the new routes on the 10m walls! Reported 4th April 2012

 

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Holwick Scar Temporary Ban. Due to a disease to juniper that can be spread by footwear, access to a large area of Open Access land in Upper Teesdale has been closed and climbing has been banned at Holwick Scar. The area of closure will be reviewed in two months time when climbers will be informed of any changes. Details of this closure are displayed on the Natural England website at www.naturalengland.org.uk/openaccess. Always check the BMC Regional Access Database for the latest access situation before climbing. Reported 3rd April 2012

Climbing at Holwick Scar  has been banned to protect diseased juniper.          Photo: Steve Crowe


 

 

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Soothe Away Aches from Sore Fingers. A unique new product arrived at Climbonline Towers recently which is designed to soothe sore fingers. Spiky can be used to warm up the fingers, especially before a fingerboard workout or a crimpy wall session. Spiky is also very nice to use after climbing to massage those achey fingers and very good a nursing tweaks. Spiky  is discrete enough to use in the pub after a session without drawing unwanted attention! Finger injuries be gone! On sale now £3. They are currently available at Durham Climbing Centre and The Climbing Works and will soon be available from a shop near you. In the meanwhile you may be able to get your Spiky direct from Mickey StainthorpeRead more reviews here.   Reviewed 14th March 2012

Spiky Finger Massager. (Carpet not included!)

 

 

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Stephen Venables: The Legend of Eric Shipton. The life of a legendary mountaineer who was sacked from leading the first successful expedition to the summit of Everest is to be put under the spotlight. Eric Shipton was one of the world’s greatest explorers, his fast, bold and low budget style inspiring many modern climbers. He took part in five expeditions to the world’s highest mountain. However, he was controversially sacked from the 1953 expedition at the last minute, leaving his protégé Edmund Hillary to become one of the first men to scale the peak. Internationally acclaimed writer, broadcaster and fellow mountaineer Stephen Venables will tell Shipton’s story in a fast-paced, illustrated talk at Gala Theatre, Durham on Thursday, 22 March. Venables mixes readings from Shipton’s books with stories of his own journeys using stunning photography and film clips he has gathered along the way. Tickets are priced at £13.00 or £12.00 for concessions (including students). To book, visit Gala box office, call 0191 332 4041 or go online at www.galadurham.co.uk. Read about more up and coming events here.  Reported 14th March 2012

 


 

 

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New Routes and Problems @ Sunderland Wall. The bouldering wall has been completely reset with more superb problems across the grade range. Meanwhile Mark "Zippy" Pretty has set over a dozen new routes from 6a through to 8c. For more details contact Sunderland Wall or just get down and get on them! Read about more up and coming Events here. Reported 13th March 2012

 

Lots of new climbs at Sunderland Wall        (Note: The problems illustrated have been stripped!)

 

bulletThe Final Round of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series takes place this Friday on 16th March 2012. The competition, now in its 4th year, has grown from strength to strength to be one of the most popular climbing events around, thanks to problems for all abilities, but also very hotly contested at the top end by the region's elite. So who will get their names upon the coveted Winter Bouldering Series trophies this year?

In the men's Nigel Callender looks to have the series sealed up with 4 terrific scores, however Nige will be looking to get the elusive maximum 350 score that no-one never been achieved in 4 years of the Winter Bouldering Series. Meanwhile in the ladies event it will be a nervous affair with all to play for, Alison Monks and Harriet Ridley neck and neck leading the way. In the juniors there have been some outstanding scores this year, no doubt thanks to the junior squad training every Thursday ran by Chris Graham, Andy Earl and Andy 'big pipes' Porter... John Schindler is edging the boys category but has Pete Stephenson on his tail just waiting for a mistake. In the girls Sid Graham looks good to retain her title, while similarly in the vet ladies Sue Leyland has sealed her first Winter Bouldering Series series win. In the vet males it couldn't be closer, it all depends on who turns out but there will certainly be a new name on the trophy in this category too!

So with the scene set, Climb Newcastle's international team of route-setters, Chris Graham, Suzan Dudink and (on the road to recovery) Andy Earl will be dealing up 35 problems from very easy to very cunning to very hard. They can be tried between 1pm and 9pm, with raffle and prize-giving at 9:30pm. As ever with Climb Newcastle events there is no additional charge for the competition, and as a bonus this time they are running free physio sessions with Newcastle Sports Injury Clinic physio Dave Magee - get your name down at reception on the day for a slot!  Reported 11th March 2012

Winter Bouldering Series at Climb Newcastle

 

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Sport Central are playing host to a Sport Relief Mile with a difference. Sport Central are inviting climbers* to try and climb a mile (that’s 135 ascents of the 12.5m Climbing wall) over the course of a weekend - Friday 23rd to Sunday 25th March.
All entrants with completed sponsor forms (sponsors required) will be given free access to the facilities over the weekend to complete the event. Sponsor forms are available from Sports Central climbing facility or available for download shortly from the website. Those wishing to contribute or sponsor individuals can do so online as well by visiting https://my.sportrelief.com/sponsor/SportCentralClimbaMile
(*previous climbing experience is essential (required to tie on using a re-threaded figure of 8 knot, belay and correctly put on a harness)

 

 

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Top Rope Day @ Sunderland Wall. The popular Top Rope Day returns to the 23m walls on Friday 9th March 2012. For more details contact Sunderland Wall. Read about more up and coming Events here. Reported 27th February 2012

 

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The BMC Youth Climbing Series at Newcastle Climbing Centre. The series is extremely popular and attracts hundreds of entrants across the country. There are five categories, with separate girls and boys competitions, that follow the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) system based on year of birth.
The categories are called Youth A, B, C, D and E, in 2012 these are:
Youth A: Those born in 1995 & 1996
Youth B: Those born in 1997 & 1998
Youth C: Those born in 1999 & 2000
Youth D: Those born in 2001 & 2002
Youth E: Those born in 2003 & 2004
For full information please visit the BMC Website 
Reported 23th February 2012


 

 

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BERGHAUS BOULDERING SERIES at Newcastle Climbing Centre is suitable for all levels of climber - the emphasis is on the fun and social aspect of climbing! Problems range fromV0 - V9+
The series is held over 3 Rounds:
1st Round - Jan 13th – 15th (Free Berghaus Raffle)
2nd Round - Feb 17th – 19th (Free Berghaus Raffle)
and the Final Round - March 30th (Presentations for Category Winner’s & Berghaus Raffle)

First two rounds will run from Friday to Sunday, this gives you plenty of time to complete your scorecard. Don’t forget to hand in scorecards for each round - this are your raffle ticket, we’ll be having the Berghaus raffle with fantastic prizes at the end of every round yes every round! Entry is £1.00 plus normal boulder entry per round and every time you hand in your scorecard you have a chance to win some fantastic Berghaus prizes as well as your category. For more details visit Newcastle Climbing Centre.
Read about more up and coming Events here. Reported 17th February 2012

 

 

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This Friday is the penultimate round of the popular Winter Bouldering Series at Climb Newcastle.  This years series has provided fantastic fun on interesting and inventive problems. This 4th round of the Winter Bouldering Series is expected to be extra special with the setters saying that they will be using the blue holds and plenty of volumes. Be warned that the volume problems will only be on the wall for the competition so if you really want to tackle some wacky moves then be sure to get down any time this Friday 17th February between 1pm and 9pm. To enter the free raffle all you need to do is to hand in a scorecard before 9:15pm. See you there? Read about more up and coming Events here. Reported 14th February 2012

Volume problems will only be on the wall for the competition so you need to  be there!

 

 

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Before The Rain (Font 8a+) by Mike Adams is probably the hardest boulder problem to be climbed on the North York Moors. It is situated on a tidal boulder on the beach at Cloughton Wyke. It goes from a standing start next to the boulder, with left on the small sidpull and right on the corner of the joining aretes. More info about the developments on the NYM coast can be found on Lee Robinson's blog here Reported 14th February 2012

Before the Rain 8a+ from Raw Edge Days on Vimeo.

 

 

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BMC Leading Ladder at Newcastle Climbing Centre. The BMC Leading Ladder is a fun lead climbing competition that started in October 2011 and runs at 29 UK walls until the end of March 2012, giving you the opportunity to travel around the country and take part in leading competitions right throughout the winter. Newcastle Climbing Centre is currently hosting the event for two weeks from 11th - 26th February 2012. There will be ten routes from grade F5+ to F8a. To take part just turn up with a friend, pay the usual wall entry fee and purchase a scorecard from the wall for only £1. More details at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Reported 11th February 2012

 

 

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Lost at Back Bowden Doors. Wedding Ring lost somewhere at Back Bowden parking area or crag on Sunday 5th February. Anyone finding this wedding ring please email The Editor.

 

 

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The Northern Indoor Bouldering League (NIBL) reaches Newcastle and the North East's premier centre for bouldering Climb Newcastle. The league is an inter-wall event, 6 walls, 6 rounds. The fourth round will be held at Climb Newcastle on Saturday 14th January. Entry fee is £10 per person which includes centre entry. Climbing starts at 12pm on the day. Registration opens 1 hour before. To be considered for the League Title and relevant Prize fund, participants must have entered 5 out of the 6 rounds. A Grand Final will take place after the league event on the 24th March at Rockover, Manchester. Problems set by regular IFSC routesetters so you can be guaranteed top quality climbing. There will be 6 categories: male and female Under16s, Open and Veterans. If the British Bouldering Championships were ever to return to a series event, NIBL would be it!

The Sponsors include:
Snow & Rock, the official retail sponsor Core Climbing Holds, grand final's hold supplier DMM Climbing, Wild Country and Red Chili Pump Volumes, Beastmaker.co.uk, Gorillamountaineering.co.uk, Trolluk, UkClimbing.com

Money will be collected during the event to raise funds toward ex-British bouldering champion Andy Earl's rehab treatment. This will be in the form of a raffle with some great prizes on offer.

Each round will consist of 25 problems to be climbed in a 3 hour window. All problems must be climbed within 3 attempts to score points. To be considered for the League Title and relevant Prize fund, participants must have entered 5 out of the 6 rounds. After all 6 rounds are completed, the overall top 6 competitors present on the day from the Men's & Women's Open will then qualify for the Grand Final held at Rockover on the 24th March 2012. All competitors who wish to qualify for the Grand Final must have competed in the League event held on the same day. The Grand Final shall be run under World Cup standards. The League and Grand Final are separate events. Wildcard entries may be allowed to enter at the judges' discretion. Under 16s. Please note there will be NO specially set problems for children. They will compete on the qualifying circuit as set for adults. Although the competition is a fun day, it is set for adults so please be aware of this if bringing your child along. Please contact the wall concerned regarding parent/supervisor supervision. Over 40's only can enter the Veteran's category. Judges have the right to amend. Read about more up and coming Events here
Reported 6th February 2012

 

 

Mens
1 Dave Barrans 230
2 Nathan Phillips 207
3 Tom Newman 200
4 Paul Carruthers 189
5 Tom Rookes 178
6 Mark Glennie 157
7 Tim Parker 153
8 Jordan Buys 133
9 Ed Morris 129
10 Ged Mac 126
11 Nick Clemet 116
12 Ben Dawson 91
13 Matthew Madden 63
14 John Coatsworth 56
15 Guy Stead 41

Womens
1 Diane Merrick 178
2 Naomi Buys 152
3 Ellie Howard 134
4 Rebecca Good 123
5 Karin Magog 121
6 Rachel Hoyland 100
7 Kay Smith 29

Male Vets
1 Richard Davies 197
2 Andy Farnell 180
3 Mark Tolver 172
4 Martin Waugn 146
5 Steve Crowe 128
6 Clive Philips 68
7 Chris Tupman 33

Female Vets
1 Sian Oakley 96
2 Karen McGuiness 28
3 Karen Mpetha 22

Male Juniors
1 Charlie Mpetha 173
2 Ben Talks 107
3 Dan Surley 96

Female Juniors
1 Hannah Wilson 127
2 Sidonie Graham 122
3 Alisha Brownlee 23

 


 

 


 




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Now is the time to revisit LLANBERIS SLATE! It's been a while since the heady days of the 80's, when slate was the happening place, however, it's seen a bit of a resurgence in more recent years. The old fixed gear has steadily been replaced and new routes have been rapidly appearing, especially in the lower grades. The quarries are once more fashionable and this book is more than just a guide, it's a celebration of slate climbing. The new guide Llanberis Slate by the North Wales based Ground Up is an outstanding looking guide which is review here by Karin Magog.

 

"First off, the practicalities – how easy is the guide to use? Each section starts with a detailed introduction to the area which includes info on conditions, approach and graded lists of both trad and sport routes. Navigating your way around all the different areas and levels of the quarries can seem a bit daunting at first. However, as well as clear approach maps throughout, there are also photographs of the more complicated areas such as Australia and Rainbow Walls, with the different levels, classic routes and approach paths detailed. This makes moving around the various levels much less complicated. The photo-diagrams are very clear and sharp and are complimented by well written route descriptions. All these aspects already make this an excellent, easy to use guide. However, it's the extras that really sell this guide to me. First off there is an amazing selection of action pictures. Here all grades and several decades are represented and really highlight the delights on offer. Climbing on slate is all about movement, consequently you make some pretty interesting shapes on some of the routes. Some of my favourite pics include:- Ivan Holroyd on Where are my Sensible Shoes, Jeff McDonald on Ride the Wild Surf, the sequence of Johnny Dawes on The Quarryman, George Smith on The Wall Within, unknown climber on The Take Over by Dept. C, and James McHaffie attempting the Meltdown project. The guide also includes short profiles of some of the iconic Slateheads, (the many characters responsible for the development over the years) and includes such greats as Johnny Dawes, Paul Pritchard, Stevie Haston, John Redhead and Martin Crook, as well as those less well known out of the area. Another added feature is the Diary of a Slatehead by Martin Crook, which gives a more colourful view on the history of this area. There's plenty more to read in the book which is great when you're sat in Pete's Eats waiting for the sun to break through. The Ground Up team have done a superb job here and their passion for the area really shines through. I can't praise this guide enough and whether you are a slate aficionado or a slate virgin you should buy it and get exploring."  Read all our reviews here. Reviewed by Karin Magog 1st February 2012

 

Published November 2011 by Ground Up

Reviewed by Karin Magog

 

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Sharpen your Tools – Winter is here and so is this unique event! Make a date in your diary for the first ever north-east of England dry tooling competition, on Saturday 11th of Feb 2012 at Sunderland Wall. In association with Roxcool and Team-Schmoolz, Sunderland Wall will be hosting a day of tooling madness and fun for all, culminating with the finalists battling their way to the top of the 23m barrel and glory. If glory isn’t enough, there are over £1500 worth of prizes to be won, and all registrations/entrys will be given a beanie generously provided by The Mountain Boot Company, Mountain Equipment and other sponsors. Competition categories include junior and adult artificial dry tooling, and adult and senior dry tooling. To cap off this event Greg Boswell, Britain’s most prolific winter climber will be presenting an evening lecture - free to all competitors. Entry for the competition is £15 / £12 (20% discount for early registration), which includes competition and wall entry, equipment hire* and lecture ticket. Full details, registration and rules are available here. Please Note: all dry toolers must provide their own ice axes, B3 rated boots (not for Schmoolz) and eye protection. Schmoolz will be provided free of charge to those entering the artificial dry tooling comp. Cliff Lowther of Roxcool would like to add "Anyone that might be interested in giving either the Schmoolz or actual dry tooling a go before the event, get down to Sunderland on Friday evening 18.00 – 20.00…only two more sessions before the 11th February."  Read about more up and coming Events here.  Updated 26th January 2012

 

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High Crag & Tarn Hole Crag Access Update. There have been complaints about climbers approaching these crags over private land near Hagg House. Would climbers please change use the approach described as follows:

Tarn Hole Crag – Approach on the footpath across the moor from Apple Tree Hurst Farm.

High Crag – Approach on the public footpath that goes towards Kay Nest but before you get there turn South East & walk above the wall. Reported 9th January 2012
 

 

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France: Languedoc-Roussillon by Adrian Berry

This is Rockfax's latest guide and is yet another valuable guidebook to France, the third they have produced in recent years. It basically covers the area between the two main auto-routes of the E11 in the west and the E15 in the east. As Adrian points out in his intro the title given for the book is a loose term as some of the crags are outside of this region, but it was chosen to give an idea of the geographical area covered. The guide covers seventeen crags in total with some of the well known areas in the guide being the Ardeche area in the north-east, Orgon down near Avignon, Claret and Russan near Nimes and the famous Gorge du Tarn near Millau..  The area is divided into five geographical regions each of which come with the usual detailed info such as map, where to stay and local guidebooks.  The individual crags then have their own intro giving you an idea of what to expect from the crag, best time to visit and how to find it.  As you would expect each crag also comes complete with clear photo topos, which give an excellent indication of what to expect from the climbing. Some of these can't have been easy to get either. The guide seems well balanced with a good mix of high and low grade venues and routes, therefore offering something for everyone. The action photos are okay, generally reinforcing the nature of the climbing at that particular crag rather than inspiring you to do a certain route.  Although the photo of Jonathan Ayrton on the amazing Le tube neural at Seynes certainly brought back memories, one of the must do routes at that crag. The guide seems well researched and a lot of work obviously went into it. On the whole an excellent, well put together guide and a good effort by Adrian. For a sport climbing trip this area of France should be high on everyone's list of places to visit and you'd get several holidays out of this guide alone.  Published November 2011 by Rockfax Crags covered include: Ardeche, Actinadas, Les Branches, Gorge du Tarn, Le Jonte, Le Boffi, Cantobre, Thaurac, Hortus, Claret, Russan, Seynes, Mouries, Orgon. Read all our reviews here. Reviewed by Karin Magog January 2012

Languedoc-Roussillon

by Adrian Berry

 

 

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New Climbing Centre in Middlesbrough. Due to be open mid January 2012. Around 580 sqm of climbing area, situated on Warelands Way, Longlands Road, Middlesbrough. More info will be on www.rockantics.co.uk soon. Rock Antics ltd. Reported 4th January 2012

 

 
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Northumberland Bouldering Update. Dan (The Beast) Varian has made a fantastic flashed ascent of County Ethics at Back Bowden Doors during a brief break in the wintery weather. Dan commented "Thanks to Ed Brown who gave me excellent beta from the ground. I'd been saving it for a while as I knew it was possible following Mark Katz's excellent flashed ascent back in 2008." Dan had this to say about the scary rockover at the very top of County Ethics "The left crimp is reassuringly grippy so the top rockover felt okay." Dan went on to say " It is a brilliant wall and a classic of its style however its not 7C+, 7B+/C is more like it."  ... or perhaps Dan is just climbing really well at the moment? Read all about Dan Varian's recent activities on the beastmaker blog.  Reported 4th January 2012

 
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Spring Top Rope and Lead Climbing Competition in Newcastle. Do you love climbing? Are you looking for a challenge with a competitive edge?
Then the Spring Top and Lead Open Climbing Competition might just be for you!

Round 1: Newcastle Climbing Centre
Friday 27th to Sunday 29th January 2012
Competition will take place during standard opening hours

Round 2: Sport Central
Friday 10th to Sunday 12th February 2012
Competition will take place during climbing wall opening hours

You can attend both rounds to increase your chance of winning! Entry is £1.00 plus standard climbing session charge at: Newcastle Climbing Centre or Sport Central
First prize: Harness
Second prize: Climbing shoes
Third prize: Chalk bag

Pick up your scorecard from reception in January at Newcastle Climbing Centre or Sport Central at Northumbria University and get involved!  Sport Central at Northumbria University includes an excellent climbing wall that is open for public access.
Reported 4th January 2012

 

 
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The Dark Side is repeated by ground up Dan Varian. New circumstances in Dan Varian's life means that he "needs" to spend much more time in North Northumberland. This has given him the time and opportunity to investigate the unrepeated climbs in The County and he has chosen to attempt them in his own very special style. This is what Dan has to say about his recent ground up ascent of Andy Earl's test piece The Dark Side at Back Bowden Doors. "Grade bickering is the Dark Side of trad and at the end of the day I think routes are best judged by their reputations and how they keep them. One thing about this route is that I think because it is basic it’d be the most flashable of all the routes of this style, what a flash that would be though! Not many people outside Northumberland really know about this route in the same way that Gaia is famous worldwide. Yet you wouldn’t catch a lady bird on any of the crux holds on Darkside, greenfly maybe, but no one ever got distressed after crushing an aphid. Its a beautiful wall and its certainly an ascent that I'll cherish for a long time to come." Read the full account of Dan Varian's ascent of The Dark Side on the beastmaker blog. In the picture Andy is making the first ascent of The Dark Side in 2003 with a rope and a couple of mats and Karin Magog spotting!  Reported 24th December 2011

 

 

bulletREEL ROCK FILM TOUR returns to the TYNESIDE CINEMA. Another batch of palm-sweating climbing flicks arrives for the annual REEL ROCK Film Tour show! The programme includes the wildest climbing stories from around the globe: The legendary Race For The Nose speed record; Sketchy Andy, in which American climber Andy Lewis is taking the discipline of slacklining into the future as he solos the worlds longest high-lines and masters the hardest aerial tricks A nine year old bouldering prodigy; A crazed high-lining champion; The most insane ice climbing action ever in Ice Revolution and much, much more. This screening on 28th December 2011 is in association with the Tyneside Cinema and tickets are available from their box office now.

 

bulletNorthern Indoor Bouldering League (NIBL) is a new bouldering series taking place at the top climbing walls in the North of England this winter - namely, the Climbing Works in Sheffield, City Bloc in Leeds, The Climbing Hangar in Liverpool, Rockover Climbing in Manchester, West View Preston and Climb Newcastle. It is an open competition to all. Categories are boy's and girls u16, open men's and women's, and over 40 vets. Each round of the competition would see participants climb a series of specially set problems to see who can climb them in limited tries to score as many points as possible. The score from each round is then accumulated into a league table, where at the last round would then determine who has won the overall league. After all the rounds are completed, the top 6 from the Open Men's and Women's categories will qualify for a grand final, where they will climb off on another 4 Bouldering World Cup quality problems. This will determine the winner of the Best of the North trophies. The climbing walls involved and the dates each round is held on:
• Climbing Hangar, Liverpool - 12th November 2011
• Climbing Works, Sheffield - 10th December 2011
• Citybloc, Leeds - 14th January 2012
• Climb Newcastle - 11th February 2012
• Westview Leisure Centre - 3rd March 2012
• Rockover, Manchester - 24th March 2012

 
Reported 28th October 2011

 

 
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The next BMC North East Area Gathering will be taking place on 7th November, at Newton Aycliffe Climbing Wall (i.e. the Leisure Centre) starting at 7.30pm. There will be the usual mix of news, views and discussion about all things outdoors, both in your area and nationally, including local crag restorations and the NE bolt fund. Everyone is welcome, and once the meeting is done, there will be free and tasty treats laid on by the team for all attendees. Full details and an agenda will be on the BMC Community Website soon. Also The Lakes Winter Ethics Debate will be taking place near Kendal at Hawkshead Brewery in Staveley on Wednesday 30th November. Everyone is welcome. Reported 28th October 2011
 

 
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The Prow is repeated. Dan Varian has grabbed the second ascent of Andy Earl's (very) highball classic The Prow E9 7a (Font 8a/+). "Northumberland has been rudely awakened from its slumbering state in the past week. A big team of miscreants headed up over the weekend to bring their raucous bouldering to to bear upon the county sandstone..." Read the full report at beastmaker.co.uk Reported 24th October 2011

Andy Earl on the first ascent of The Prow E9 7a/ Font 8a/+    Photo: Steve Crowe

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Birthday Weekend 28th - 30th October 2011. DCC is four years old at the end of October and they invite everyone to a weekend of exciting events. Read more here. Reported 22nd October 2011

 

 
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This Friday Climb Newcastle are celebrating their 3rd birthday at the centre with a huge birthday bash - here is some of the stuff going on and this isn't going to cost you a penny more than your normal climb!

Fun Competition
Main arena, 1pm-9pm
Try your luck on 30 problems from easy to rock hard in our birthday competition, prizes to be won in junior, adult and vet categories. It is the first one day competition for a while so expect the famous Climb Newcastle setting team to be on fine form!

Byker Groove Challenge
Main arena, 1pm-9pm
The Byker Groove Challenge is a problem set down by our crazy-for-funk setter Chris Graham - it's worth of £50 of Chris's hard earned money if you climb it first! Sounds easy? Check out one of Chris's previous creations at the Climbing Hangar, Liverpool which may still be awaiting a second ascent weeks and weeks on! Watch Chris demo his problem here.

Five Ten Boot Demo
Main arena 4pm-9pm
Try out Five Ten's fantastic range of shoes for free, just head to their stand hosted by sponsored climber and Mr Beastmaker himself Dan Varian.

Guest Speakers
Take a break from the problems to be entertained by two guest speakers..
Dan Varian 7:45pm
Guest speaker Dan, one of the most active climbers in Northumberland (and the UK right now) talks about the "Ultra Quiet County" featuring many first ascents and little gems.
Graeme Read 6:45pm
Graeme takes us on a journey through Northumberland's testpiece E5s and E6s, featuring footage from the "long lost county archives"

Circle of Fortune
Climb Newcastle Shop 12pm-10pm
The circle of fortune is back - remember this? 
Fill yer basket and spin the wheel to save some cash or win a prize! Nice!

Free Massage from Shiatsu Works
Training Room, 3pm-9pm
To celebrate Climb Newcastles's 3rd birthday, James from Shiatsu Works will be offering free 10/15 minute taster treatments. An avid climber, James uses his personal experience to tailor treatments to the needs of climbers which has made him popular in the climbing community.
Treatments are designed to relax, revitalise and recharge. They are an enjoyable experience and can also be effective in the recovery and prevention of injury. Regular treatments will reduce muscle fatigue, improve flexibility and enhance performance.
Using a combination of shiatsu, acupressure and myofascial techniques, the taster session will see the muscular structure around the neck, shoulders and back worked from the comfort of an ergonomically designed chair.

Mule Bar Tasting
Main Arena, 6pm-9pm
Need fuel to climb harder? Look no further than our Mule Bars on sale at reception now and try the flavours out on our birthday at the Mule Bar tasting stand. Mmm pinacolada :-0...

Birthday Buffet
Cafe Lounge, 8:30pm til it's all gone!
You want feeding as well? Ok then, there'll be a big spread awaiting you at 8:30pm in the cafe lounge!

Raffle Time!
Main arena, 9:30pm
They sure know how to run a good raffle at Climb Newcastle - a grand giveaway of goodies - just hand in your scorecard from the fun competition to enter!

After-the-party Party
Newcastle 10pm til the early hours
Meet at the Cluny from 10pm for drinks then if you think you're wild enough we'll head for the city centre and lay the ground-work for a stonking-big hangover! 
Reported 18th October 2011

 
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Moors Meet a terrific success. The meet was based in the beautiful remote lost valley below Kay Nest Crag. "The night was cold but as soon the sun came over the moor we warmed up like lizards on some of the boulders, once fully charged, it was time to enjoy the most stunning dale in the Moors, by the time we were warm nearly everyone had turned up for the meet." Many new problems were added to this fantastic destination and the venue now has its first Font 8a! Read more on Lee Robinsons blog here. Reported 17th October 2011

The beautiful remote lost valley below Kay Nest Crag

 
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New Bouldering and New Routes at Sunderland Wall.  Three awesome stamina routes have been set on the 23 metre stepped wall by Steve Crowe and Karin Magog. If you enjoy that burning sensation in your forearms then these three new routes weighing in at 7a, 7a+ and 7b may be just the thing for you? Also the bouldering wall has been completely reset with a fantastic variety of problems. Keep up to date with all the new developments at Sunderland Wall on Facebook. Also a note for your diary; the BMC Leading Ladder will be at Sunderland Wall from 26th November until 11th December 2011.  Reported 12th October 2011

 

Steve and Karin climbing during the BICC at Sunderland in 2005

 
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New Bouldering Wall for the North East Opening on Saturday 15th October. Climb North East is located in Unit 6 on the Dean and Chapter Industrial Estate at Ferryhill. The wall is being developed by father and son team Neil and Nick Patterson with Kevin Milburn. The bouldering walls are up to 4.5m high and there will also be small area dedicated roped climbing. Reported 9th October 2011

 

 
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North York Moors October Bouldering Meet. The Circuit is already over sixty problems from 3 to 7c with some new lines to be done across the grades. The location will be revealed a couple of days before, so no-one can get their mitts on some of the lines before the meet. Contact Lee Robinson for more information via his BetaGuides web site. Also watch out for all the up and coming events here Reported 4th October 2011

Classic bouldering at Camp Hill (This is not the location of the October Meet!).  

 

bulletNew Climbing Restrictions at Danby Crag. There has been a large increase in the numbers of Roe Deer at Danby & therefore the Estate are shooting more often. There has been a significant increase in climbers visiting Danby Crag  and some climbers have been turned away from the crag by the gamekeeper. The BMC have recently agreed the following access arrangements with the Estate Director;

No climbing between 1st November & 31st May.
Between 1st June & 31st October only climbers who are members of the BMC or affiliated to it may use this crag (Landowner’s request for insurance purposes).
All climbers before visiting or arranging a meets programme must contact Peter Snaith [tel:01287 660224, email: p.snaith@dawney.co.uk] to check that shooting is not taking place. 
Reported 2nd October 2011
 
bulletThird Annual Outside In Event at Newcastle Climbing Centre on the 8th October 2011. The fun starts 12 noon when La Sportiva, Beal & Petzl descend on Newcastle Climbing Centre.
This year sponsored athletes are: Natalie Berry & Neil Gresham who will be on hand throughout the event and closing the event with lectures. All day event for all ages with:
• fun comps
• spot-prizes
• Masterclassess (first come first served basis)
• Raffle - £100’s give away
• Lectures                                               
Reported 1st October 2011

 

 

bulletNew Routes on the North York Moors. There has been a surge of new route activity on the Moors recently with Franco Cookson and Dave Warburton leading the charge. Many hard new routes have been going up at Stoupe Brow and Danby Crag including Die By The Sword (H7 6c**), The White Scoop (E7 6b***) and Waves Of Inspiration (H7 7a***) Reported 22nd September 2011

 from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

 

 
bullet Durham Climbing Centre. Its the Final Event of the Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Ladder on 30th September. 15 problems to try from 6pm - 9pm. Open to all. Raffle. Also coming up soon is the Beastmaker Workshop for Intermediate and advanced climbers.   Reported 17th September 2011

 

 

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Highcliff Nab in a New Light. Highcliffe Nab situated high above above Guisborough is the home of many great routes across the whole grade range. Magic in the Air E5/7, Moonflower E4, Stargazer E3, Scarcrow Crack E1 and Highcliff Crack Severe are just some of the popular three star classics. The crag has seen a flurry of fresh interest this summer with many routes at he extreme left end of the crag receiving some attention following the altruistic cleaning by some enthusiastic local climbers. See more pictures of Highcliffe Nab here. See a video of some recent action here. For more details about recent activity on the North York Moors read Franco Cookson's  and Dave Warburton's entertaining blogs .  Reported 11th September 2011

 

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Johnny Dawes Illustrated Lecture. There is to be a lecture at Rheged near Penrith on 11th September by Johnny Dawes in aid of Community Action Nepal. Good climbers have come and gone, but the ones who have left an indelible impression on British climbing have done so with charisma and vision as opposed to raw talent - Johnny Dawes brought Britain its first E8 and E9, he did it with that touch of flare and finesse that made the numbers seem irrelevant. It was the stuff that fuelled our wildest fantasies. Rheged, Sunday 11th September 2011, 7.30pm, Tickets £15.00, Tickets available from Rheged Telephone 01768 868000   Reported 5th September 2011

 

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Sunderland Wall 23m Top Roping Day two! Following the huge success of the first top rope event Sunderland Wall are going to provide some top roping lines on the 23m section  again on Monday 5th September. Instructors will be at hand to help out. All this at normal entry fees.  Reported 3rd September 2011

 

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Film Night Three @ Climb Newcastle. This Friday 2nd September is the last day to hand in your round 3 summer ladder scorecard and also the third of our film nights. This Friday's guest speaker is Mark Savage, who's rampage of new routes in the first few years of this century produced a number of bold testpieces for the new generation - on Friday we'll take the journey through the highs of Cataclysm (E6 7a), Greenford Road Direct (E8 6b), AKA Mr Vegas (E7 6c) and more, and the painful end to Mark's new-routing account. Featuring in part 2 we'll have the best of your short films about Climb Newcastle (remember you have until Wednesday night to get them to us), plus the third in our series of Andy Earl testpieces - The Bitch (8a+) at Back Bowden Doors. Watch the trailer now.   Reported 1st September 2011

 

 

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The Wainstones Bouldering Renaissance Update. Mike Adams enjoyed pleasant day dispatching at The Wainstones while the locals could only stand and watch... and occasionally spot him. Video includes the possible first ascents of: The Hollow Sit Start 6c+, The Prow Extension 7A+, Strongbow 7b+, Cruel Intensions 7c all by Mike Adams. There is a recent interview with Mike at MoonClimbing.  Also watch Steve Ramsden on the first ascent of The Prow here. Reported 30th August 2011

Some Possible First At The Wainstones from Raw Edge Days on Vimeo.

 

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Middle Ridge Crag in Rosedale Steven Phelps has sent climbonline.co.uk  details of an entirely new crag he has developed up on Middle Ridge Crag in Rosedale. Full details here. Reported 27th August 2011

Steven Phelps approaching the break of 5. Kiln Tower Photo © Stuart Brown

 

 

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The Wainstones Bouldering Renaissance has began. A new wave of bouldering enthusiasm has finally reached the old school boulders at The Wainstones. For a sneek preview of what is on offer check out this video. More info can be found at Betaguides Reported 25th August 2011

Wainstones Revisited from James Rennardson on Vimeo.

 

 

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New Bouldering Centre in Middlesbrough. Due to be open within the first 2 weeks of October 2011, just in time for the winter. Around 580 sqm of climbing area.
More info will be on www.rockantics.co.uk soon. Rock Antics ltd.
Reported 24th August 2011

 

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Lady of the Flies. Karin Magog has marked her return to top form following a series of niggling injuries with an impeccable ascent of Lord of the Flies E6 6a. On some recent trips to Wales Karin followed a quick redpoint of Statement of Youth 8a with onsight ascents many trad classics including The Fascist and Me E4 at Trevellan, Paint it Black E5, on the Excursion Wall, Upper Pen Trwyn,  Killerkranky E5 and King Wad E5 up on the Scimitar Ridge and finally Cenotaph Corner E1 followed by... Cemetery Gates E1 then running out of excuses...  Lord of the Flies E6 6a. Read her blog at www.karinmagog.co.uk. Reported 17th August 2011

   

 

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James McHaffie makes a Big Bang at LPT. James McHaffie a.k.a. ‘Caff’ may be well known for his trad onsighting ability, but by making the second ascent (and third) of The Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn (LPT) on The Great Orme, he now joins an elite group of F9a sport climbers. In frustration Caff told climbonline.co.uk a few weeks ago that " I am growing tired of eating lettuce leaves, I'll give it until the end of July..." Caff went on to say " I am the lightest I have been since I was a boy!"  Read the full story at DMMclimbing.com Caff returned to LPT today to get some video footage and managed to cruise the third ascent stating "It felt a bit easier this time"! Meanwhile a Keswick neighbour Adam Hocking has recently been up on Scafell making the second ascent of Dave Birkett's E9 Return of the King read more on UKC.

James McCaffie climbing Big Bang 9a

 

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Film Night2 @ Climb Newcastle. Friday 5th August 2011 Following the huge success of their first ever Film Night Climb Newcastle  are holding a second film night this friday, which coincides with the change over to the third round of the Summer Bouldering Comp. The Film Night starts at 8.30 prompt and the programme is:

- Steve Blake and Bob Smith revisiting their 1978 testpiece Original Sin
- Guest speak Andy Cowley's first ascent of The Governor at Hepburn
- Andy's long-awaited repeat of the terrifying Time and Motion at Sandy Crag
- Climb Newcastle's Euro Bouldering Destination Guide
- Andy Earl's Blood Sport.
Reported 2nd August 2011

 

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Newcastle Climbing Centre. The Newcastle Indoor Climbing Competition leading ladder has just started and runs until 2nd September 2011. Buy your scorecard for just £1.00 and take on the 12 routes in the centre, you can either lead or top rope and grades range from 5 - 7b+. Full details from Newcastle Climbing Centre. Reported 1st August 2011

 

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Pembroke Restrictions Lifted Early. The climbing restrictions in place to protect nesting birds along the Pembrokeshire Coast will be lifted a few days early this year, allowing climbing from Saturday July 30th. As all the birds on the usually restricted climbing venues along the Pembrokeshire coast seem to have completed their nesting rituals early this year, the National Park have confirmed that climbing will be allowed from Saturday July 30th on all the usually restricted cliffs along the south Pembrokeshire Coast.
 The Army have also confirmed that there will be no firing at either Range East or Range West throughout August, so there will be mid-week access to all cliffs throughout the summer! However the Upper Pen Trwyn Marine Drive restrictions are now in place for the summer school holidays; Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). Access to Parisella's Cave and Lower Pen Trwyn is not affected.  Read all the BMC News here
Reported 28th June 2011

Climbing allowed from Saturday July 30th 2011

 

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Sport Climbing Banned at Blue Scar. The increased popularity of the sports routes at Blue Scar have led to a series of incidents last year involving poor parking (and just too many climbers cars) on the narrow road below the crag  additional restrictions are now in place for 2011. Climbers wishing access the fantastic traditional climbs at Blue Scar are required to apply in writing for a permit. The landowner has issued the following statement:
... 'With effect from the 1st July 2011 permissive access arrangements have changed and access is only with written permission obtained in advance. Proof of current BMC membership will be required. Application forms from sundial@globalnet.co.uk'....
The owner has agreed that once obtained, permission will last for a season. The BMC are still engaged in negotiations with the landowners, however so far they have failed to reach an agreement that will allow Sport Climbing at Blue Scar. Read more on UKC. The up to date info should be on the BMC Regional Access Database soon.
Reported 21st June 2011

Blue Scar restrictions 2011

 

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Summer Offers at Newcastle Climbing Centre:  Summer family Pass £60, Family Taster Sessions £40, Kids Climbing Sessions £40, Kids Coaching £40. Please contact Newcastle Climbing Centre on 0191 265 6060 or ask at reception for more info. Reported 18th June 2011

 

 

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Sunderland Wall 23m Top Roping Day. Sunderland Wall are going to provide some top roping lines on the 23m section for the first time on Monday 1st August. Instructors will be at hand to help out. All this at normal entry fees. Also at Sunderland Wall  there are 25 new boulder problems to check out.  Reported 14th July 2011

Would you prefer to top rope on the 23m routes?

 

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Summer Sunday Fun Day at Durham Climbing Centre. Sunday 15th July 12 - 5pm climb for £5. BBQ and Bycycle Stunt show. Also try out the brand new Beastmaker Board, the new holds are all wooden and carved from different hard woods including elm, maple and oak. For full details visit Durham Climbing Centre.  Reported 8th July 2011

 

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Summer 2011 at Newcastle Climbing Centre. There are a lot of activities going on at Newcastle Climbing Centre this summer. New problems by Micky Page, a bouldering comp on 29th July, a summer long route climbing comp sponsored by Berghaus, courses for all the family also training events for instructors. Full details in the Newcastle Climbing Centre newsletter. Reported 7th July 2011

 

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Film Night @ Climb Newcastle. Friday 8th July 2011 will be the cross-over day for the round 1 and round 2 problems of Climb Newcastle's summer bouldering ladder. Well, this Friday 8th July the entertainment is stepping up a notch with the first of three film nights at the centre as this year's summer social events. Along with various guest speakers and independent films, the film nights will feature some of the 'lost footage' that is the County Archives (The County project captured on film almost every significant first ascent in Northumberland over a 10 year period, but the guys involved never quite got round to making the movie!).

The first of the film nights will feature guest speakers Adam Watson and Andy Porter, Adam is a young GB competitor currently making a big name for himself on the international circuit - Andy is one of the strongest climbers to come out of Newcastle in recent years and whilst his busy lifestyle keeps his climbing trips sparse, man can he crush. The guys will be talking about their recent trips taking Rocklands in South Africa and Fontainebleau, France by storm.

Premiering from the County Archives are several short films: following Adam Watson on his quest to repeat several of Northumberland's hard routes, featuring County Ethics (E7), Masterclass (E7) and Off the Rocks (E8); as well as a visit to Gimmerknowe boulders with Andy Earl to re-climb his testpiece 2001 boulder problem Desperado (8a+) - pivotal in the development of hard problems away from the classic Northumberland crags.

The films will kick off at 8:30pm, this will be super-informal, bring a picnic rug and some snacks. Don't bring drinks with you though, sorry. They should last until roughly 10pm, after which there will be a pub meet (The Cluny in Ouseburn) for a few beverages, with everyone welcome, they're a friendly bunch at Climb Newcastle after all.

The film night is included in your normal entry to Climb Newcastle, so get yourself down a bit earlier and get some problems in, with those round 2 summer ladder problems up at midday.



 

 

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Sport CLIMBING + by Adrian Berry and Steve McClure was first published by Rockfax in 2006 and has become acknowledged as essential reading for all sport climbers. It covers every aspect of sport climbing from gear and ropework to tactics and training methods. The belaying section has been updated to show the newest belay devices and discusses in detail how to use a Grigri safely. Both onsighting and redpointing approaches are discussed in detail from warming up and preparation through to resting and refueling! How to improve technique and mental toughness as well as good diet and skin care are all covered. Multipitch sport climbing has its own chapter too. New in this edition is a detailed discussion of the advantages of using a Personal Anchor System (PAS) for the speedy setting up of stances. Sport CLIMBING + is packed with inspirational action pictures and many updated instructional photographs. It also details a good selection of sport climbing destinations in England and beyond. Absolutely nothing is missed out. If you have not already got a copy now is the time to buy this updated second edition.   Read all our reviews here Reported 30th June 2011

 

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Recall for replacement: GRIGRI 2. Petzl has discovered that exerting excessive force on the fully extended handle of the GRIGRI 2 can cause internal damage, such that the GRIGRI 2 handle may become stuck in the open position. When the handle is stuck in this position the assisted braking function is disabled. A damaged GRIGRI 2 in this configuration will function similarly to a manual belay device (e.g. tube style device). When using a damaged GRIGRI 2 with the handle stuck in the position as shown in Figure 1, failure to control the braking side of the rope will increase the risk of an uncontrolled descent. A GRIGRI 2 with a damaged handle must be immediately retired from service. Petzl has decided to take the following actions:

bulletincrease the mechanical strength of the handle on all GRIGRI 2’s since serial number 11137.
bulletrecall all GRIGRI 2’s with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, and replace with a new revised GRIGRI
bulletPetzl will pay for all shipping costs to complete this replacement. Full details of the Grigri2 Recall for Replacement here.

    

Full details of the Grigri2 Recall for Replacement here

 

 

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Climb Newcastle Summer Boulder Ladder. Friday 10th of June is the start of the Climb Newcastle  summer boulder ladder with round 1 running until 8th July. If you didn't take part last year the ladder is effectively a 12 week competition, with four weeks to try each of 3 problem sets. You hand your scorecard in at the end of every session and we keep the scores live on the website (that's the ladder part as you can watch yourself move up and down!). The problems will vary from very easy to very very hard so plenty to keep everyone busy, and the emphasis is on fun, with plenty of prizes up for grabs and 3 social nights taking place to coincide with the changeover of problems. The dates are: Round 1: 10th June  - 8th July  2011, Round 2: 8th July - 5th August  2011, Round 3: 5th August - 2nd September 2011. Reported 8th June 2011

 

 

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New 23m Routes Sunderland Wall. There is a new Pink 6a route up the very centre of the steepest area of the 23m section. It has only been set a few days and is already proving extremely popular! More new 23m routes are to follow soon so if you are close to redpointing your project then get down quickly, it may be stripped next! Don't forget Wednesday is discount day at Sunderland Wall. For only £5.00 entry fee you can climb for as long as you want, all day Wednesday. Reported 31st May 2011

New 23m Routes Sunderland Wall

 

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New Routes at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  Micky Page has been busy route setting at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  Along with Dan Wilson they have set over 20 routes from 5 to 8a (Check out the steep Tufa Route!) and 4 new circuits in the Bouldering Zone. So there’s no excuse not to get strong! Micky Page is re setting the roof Tuesday 31st May so mark that day in your diary! Reported 28th May 2011
 

 

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New Black Circuit at Durham.  Micky Page is back home for a few weeks and he has already been through to Durham to set another popular and challenging black circuit at Durham Climbing Centre. See how many you can do!  Reported 23rd May 2011

 

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Bolts in the North East Quarries. Everyone is welcome to attend the next gathering of the NE Area which will be held on Monday 6th June 2011 at the Newcastle Climbing Centre. Everyone attending the meeting will be able to climb at the centre for a little while for free until the meeting starts. If you add to that a friendly atmosphere, free food and news and views from around the region, then you'll be struggling to think of a reason not to come along. News of the new NE bolt fund, as well as crag restoration projects will be on the menu. Come along if you have an opinion on the proposed bolting of old and unpopular quarries in the area. Dave Turnbull from the BMC will be there to answer your questions. More details can be found on the BMC website. Reported 23rd May 2011

 

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Bloc Masters. World class climber Micky Page and professional photographer Mark Savage share the front cover of this months issue of CLIMB magazine. Two other climbers who have left their mark on Northumberland climbing, Malcolm Smith and Dan Varian, are also featured in Percy Bishton's BLOC Masters article. Read more on this and other Northumberland snippets on Mark's Blog. Reported 21st May 2011

Cover picture by Mark Savage Photography

 

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Foredale Quarry (Settle) is closed to climbers until further notice. "Rob Dyer the BMC national access officer and myself have spent several hours at Foredale this morning talking to the farmer, his family and several residents of Foredale Cottages. There are several issues which we could not resolve and to be fair we had much sympathy for many of the concerns expressed. In general one of the main problems is simply that Foredale has become a victim of its own success and the visitor numbers, particularly on fine weekends and summer evenings have become a grave irritation to the local residents. That could perhaps be eased by negotiating a different access route but – see below – would it work?
  A more specific problem for the residents of the cottages is that despite all our clearly positioned BMC notices directing climbers where to park and walk some are still driving and/or walking up to and through the residents private parking area. On top of that it is claimed some have become abusive and rude when challenged and were seen kicking down the residents own notice board. I really find it impossible to defend such behaviour and if the offenders can be identified they should be vilified by us all. They cannot possibly have any excuse!
  Another concern of the residents is regarding the lack of toilet facilities at the crag and worries that their water supply may become polluted. One climber has been seen urinating close to the water supply pipe source.
  Mr Pearson himself has several concerns regarding damage to walls and fences and gates being left open (he initially agreed to us, in conjunction with the YDNPA, providing new gates and stiles but he has since rescinded this idea). He also believes that climbers are still taking dogs to the crag?
  His major concern most recently, however, is that he has discovered that a local climbing wall has been offering a series of guided courses at Foredale at £90 per head. (Rob will speak to the wall concerned about this). The bottom line is that whilst Moughton Nab and its approaches are on Access Land Mr Pearson doesn’t accept this gives a right to climb and confrontation on this point at this stage would be counter-productive. The current access route to Foredale is clearly across Mr Pearson’s Land and he has every right to restrict access that way as he sees fit.
  Our consultations and negotiations will continue but in the mean-time please avoid any further confrontation." Dave Musgrove on UKClimbing. Read more here
Reported 21st May 2011

 

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THE MATTERHORN - The Most Dangerous Mountain by Steffen Kjaer Published April 2011 by Alpine Avenue Books

Since the dramatic first ascent in 1865, the drama and the myths have created a unique interest in this mountain, which has probably caused the deaths of more mountaineers than any other. Each year, thousands of climbers attempt to reach the summit, but only one in five succeeds. And every season, the mountain claims the lives of ten to twenty climbers. Steffen Kjaer describes his and his climbing partner Brian Jorgensen’s attempt to make it to the summit of the Matterhorn. After careful preparations and perfect acclimatization, they take off to face the challenge of their lives. On the descent, however, something goes wrong. All of a sudden, they find themselves caught in one of Matterhorn’s countless and lethal rockslides... "I have to admit that mountaineering isn't something that usually grabs my attention, and although I can see some of the appeal of the Matterhorn (it's a beautiful looking mountain), the mental effort required to safely climb mountains is not for me. Hence I started reading this book with a dispassionate interest and thinking it would be a bit of a chore. However, after the first chapter I was already grabbed by the story and drawn along by the enthusiasm of the author. The book is very easy to read and the story well told without too many technical terms (although there's a very good glossary at the back if you need it). We follow their journey from their arrival at Zermatt, through their period of acclimatisation on smaller neighbouring peaks to their final preparations for the big day. The account of the final ascent and descent was riveting and I was reluctant to put the book down. It didn't take long to read at all. Throughout the book are various short articles, which were generally interesting and added to the overall production. These included the story of the first ascent, two interviews with local guides, extracts from the North Wall Bar visitor's book (which I found particularly interesting), as well as a piece on acclimatisation and a letter from President Roosevelt amongst others. Quite an unusual mix of all things 'Matterhorn'. I think this book would certainly appeal to both mountaineers and non-mountaineers alike and I would highly recommend it. However, one things for sure, after reading all about the loose rock, difficult route finding and hauling up fixed ropes I won't be in the queue in the near future!" Karin Magog  Read all our reviews here. Reviewed by Karin Magog 14th May 2011

 

 

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NEWCASTLE ADVENTURE FILM NIGHT
Prepare to reach great heights, high speed, and real depth as Newcastle Climbing Centre & Berghaus team up with Tyneside Cinema once again for a special screening of some of the world’s best short adventure films. Gathered from all over the world, this thrilling night of outdoor pursuits includes Chimaera, offering a unique view from a skiers’ perspective; Seb Montez’s incredible wire walking documentary Skyliners; surfing through the photographers’ eye in Dark Side Of The Lens; climbing film The Architect and Way Back Home where we follow master mountain biker Danny MacAskill as he cycles all the way from Edinburgh to his home on the Isle of Skye. A must see for all real adventurers out there, and for the rest of us wannabes a great chance to get excited by the great lengths people go to for a bit of fresh air! Thursday - 9TH JUNE - Doors open 8pm. Tickets on sale at Tyneside Cinema box-office
Reported 14th May 2011

 

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Sunderland Wall Discount Entry. Wednesday is discount day at Sunderland Wall! For only £5.00 entry fee you can climb for as long as you want, all day Wednesday. So a Wednesday is a great day to check out all the new problems that Tom Newman has recently set on the bouldering wall. There are more problems than ever before and many are at a very amenable grade so there is now something for everyone. Get down and check it out for yourself! Reported 12th May 2011

Tom Newman climbing at Sunderland Wall!

 

 

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Spring Bouldering Competition & Barbecue at Durham Climbing Centre. This weekend you have two days to complete twenty five problems at Durham Climbing Centre. The Competition starts at 3pm on Friday 13th May and finishes on Saturday 14th May at 9pm.  Please contact the centre for more details Reported 9th May 2011

 

 

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Peak Scar Owl moves Home. The owl that normally nests in Jonas seems to have moved this year. There's a nest in the wide crack (quite near the ground) at the start of Walkin' and left of The Edge. It may be best to start this route by
traversing in from the left (or better just avoid this area) until the family have been raised.
Reported 7th May 2011
 

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Climb Newcastle ASBO 2011. The Third Climb Newcastle Annual Spring Boulder Open will take place this Friday 6th May. This event of the year promises to be as spectacular as the previous two... In brief, ASBO follows the fun format of the Winter Bouldering Series competitions, and then notches up the drama ten-fold with a head-to-head final as the top 5 men and women compete for the ASBO title. And just for taking part you get an ASBO '11 t-shirt, for free. No extra entry fee, just pick up a scorecard and away you go looking good in yellow! T-shirts are available for the first 200 competitors. The first part of the day is a fun competition  finishing at 8:30pm. This part of the competition also acts as qualification for the final with the top 5 men and women going through. "The day rolls out like this… As for the WBS you will have 35 problems to try in the entire range font 3-7c (easy peasy to very hard) and between 1pm and 8:30pm to try them. At 9pm the finals begin - the top 5 male and female competitors (from any category, in previous years juniors have finished as high as 2nd) will battle it out to be ASBO '11 winners. This will be a spectator event and you will most certainly want to hang around! Spectating is entirely free for the final." Chris Graham  Reported 3rd May 2011
 

 

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Crag Clean Up in Borrowdale. With the recent brilliant weather Goat Crag in Borrowdale has been getting attention from the Al Wilson and his enthusiastic team. "Routes that have been climbed are DDT , Praying Mantis, Point Blank (1st Pitch),Tumbleweed Connection, The Voyage,Athanor ,and The Magpie, with further visits this week to climb Bitter Oasis , Mirage and hopefully Footless Crow. "Many of the routes are been climbed in 1 pitch giving huge 55m routes. These routes are superb Tumbleweed Connection has to be one of the best E2's in the country. See you up there?" Al Wilson. Discuss this on UKClimbingMountain route clean up! Update: Up at Dove Crag; Vlad the Impailer is clean, over on Pavey; Sixpence has been spring cleaned, also Borderline on Scafell has been clean and tat on peg and the thread have been replaced. Further north The Kelpie on Garbh Bheinn is now clean and Dalriada on The Cobbler has seen a number of ascents already this spring. If you are planning to climb in Scotland before the end of July then check out this vital information to help keep you within the law. This is the first year when this has been prepared in co-operation with bird groups making this the most reliable and comprehensive Scottish information to date - check out the alerts at www.mcofs.org.uk Reported 26th April 2011

"See you up there?" Al Wilson

 

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Right Royal Bouldering Meet. North Yorkshire Moors Bouldering Meet April 30th - May 1st 2011. Meeting at the Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge. Venues include: Camp HillCIemmitts Crag, Oak Crag, Rosedale Head, Stormy Hall and the superb Ingleby. There are are good range of problems to suit all abilities. " Last year's explorations have proved the dales on each side of Blakey Ridge have enough bouldering on to keep most activists happy and the scope for new development keeps me going back for more.  Oak wall needs someone to hit and hang the sloper - any takers? Camp Hill is a great little venue. Clemmitt's Crag actually has some big boulders and some steep walls awaiting your attention! Further away Ingleby Incline is just crying out to for a circuit to be developed so here's your chance." Lee.  Visit Beta Guides for more information. Reported 20th April 2011

 

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E9 Weekend at Climb Newcastle. 25% off everything including the new stock that has just arrived of men's, women's, kid's clothing, bags, belts, hats and chalk bags from both the spring/summer and autumn/winter collections. Get yourself down to Climb Newcastle this weekend and you can enjoy the brand new pink problems while you shop!  Plus you could have a chance to win an E9 Gbi2 jacket, the piece de resistance in the E9 collection, worth £240, and the only one in existence in the UK! More info on the Climb Newcastle website. Reported 14th April 2011

 

 

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Cumbria Coaching Network... Risk and Comfort Zones’ You have the exciting opportunity to work with one of today’s most experienced British women mountaineers. Adele Pennington is renowned for helping people achieve the highest summits in the world through her ability to coach and support others. Her daily life is about managing risks, balancing the need to achieve with the risks of being in high mountains. Explore with her how she manages risk for herself and how she encourages others to achieve so much more than they thought possible. Does this sound like you: Do you want to help others step into new areas of their lives? Would you like to understand how people’s perceptions of risk impact decision making?
Do you know people who are taking too many risks? For those who want to enable change.
17th June 2011
9am – 4.30pm
Rheged Centre, Penrith,CA11 0DQ
For full details and application form go to the cumbriacoaching.net website. 
Reported 14th April 2011

The Cumbria Coaching Network is a professional group of coaches who live or coach in Cumbria and the glorious English Lake District

 

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Free Adventures at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Qualified Mountain Instructor Tom Parkin is giving a Free Talk at Newcastle Climbing Centre on Thursday 14th April 2011 starting at 8pm prompt. Tom will be sharing his 30 years of Outdoor Experience to help YOU decide here to go on your next Big Adventure! Reported 11th April 2011

 

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MALLORCA Sport Climbing and Deepwater Soloing OUT NOW.

It doesn't seem that long since the last Mallorca rock climbing guide was published by Rockfax but it's actually four years which was a surprise. This new guide is bigger and better than the old one, with nearly twice as many pages (up from 176 to 304). There's a few new crags including including the superb Es Verger but the big bonus is the Deep Water Soloing section at the back. Mallorca is a very popular destination for this sub sport and it's well documented here, great for those groups who like to mix things around a bit. I was also glad to see that they'd managed to track down the route names that were missing in the previous guide – good job.

The guide follows the standard Rockfax format which I'm sure everyone is now familiar with. This includes plenty of useful info at the front, clear maps and excellent photo-diagrams This new guide has more of these than the last guide, with only a few remaining hand drawn topos of those sectors where photography was obviously impractical. The photos also offer an approximate route length which was very useful and made spotting the endurance crags nice and easy, as well as being a reminder to be careful with your rope length. The guide offers a great mix of grades and styles of climbing, from easy slabs to ferocious overhangs, deep water soloing to multi-pitch adventure, mountain settings to crags on the beach – surely there's something here for everyone?

The action photos are pretty good in the main although some of them do seem a bit soft. They give a good indication of the nature of the particular crag and work well with the photo-diagrams when deciding on which of the many crags to visit. I particularly like the front cover which certainly sells the place to me.

It's been a long while since I've visited Mallorca but this new guide has certainly whetted my appetite. Another good production from Rockfax and well worth buying.

The Mallorca climbing guide by Alan James, Mark Glaister, Daimon Beail is be available now, price £24.95. Read all our reviews here. Reviewed by Karin Magog 10th April  2011

The Mallorca climbing guide is be available now, price £24.95

 

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Durham Climbing Centre. A fun Junior Bouldering Comp at Durham Climbing Centre. Sunday 10th April, 2.30pm - 4.30pm. Entry £12. Please contact the centre to book in advance.  Reported 6th April 2011

 

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An Evening with Tim Emmett. A talk by the renowned mountaineer, climber, extreme sports athlete Tim Emmett on Monday 11th April, at 7pm at the Newcastle Royal Grammar School. All proceeds for the evening are going to local Mountain Rescue groups. Tim is a professional extreme sports athlete, well known for his charismatic and enthusiastic and energy charged lectures. His passion for rock and ice climbing has taken him all over the world developing new areas and styles. He has competed in the ice climbing world cup 2001 – 2004 and podiumed 3 times, and written a book – “Preposterous Tales” with Neil Gresham.  Tim has appeared on front of numerous climbing magazines and he has made several television appearances, including BBC2 Wild Climbs, HTV Moments of Fear and Top Gear. He has also filmed in many documentaries such as Psicobloc – one of the most dynamic and eye-catching climbing films ever produced – winning 6 awards in 2004.
He has also presented a climbing documentary Ultimate Rock Climbs on BBC1 in 2007. Ice climbing, snowboarding, surfing, scuba diving, kickboxing and most recently BASE jumping are all facets of his extreme quest for all out adventure, and to push the boundaries of psychological and physical performance. His latest focus has become climbing newest cult – Para-Alpinism. This entails climbing a big wall with a BASE rig on and then jumping off, into freefall! Truly unique, Tim Emmett is a speaker not to be missed. 
Reported 4th April 2011

 

 

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Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering: Volume 2 is out now! Written by Darlington's strongest climbers Steve Dunning and Ryan Plews. Bored with bouldering at the same old venues? Looking for some fresh challenges then check out Yorkshire Grit Bouldering Vol 2. See sample pages here. This is another excellent guide book by Steve Dunning and Ryan Plews, this time it highlights bouldering on the wilder and higher crags in the peaceful and quieter parts of Yorkshire! It covers many superb quiet and remote destinations such as Simon's Seat, Lords Seat, Hen Stones, Crookrise, Deer Gallows, Fairies Chest, Hellifield, Rylstone, Brandrith, Flasby Fell, Goldsborough and lots of new development at Guisecliff. It that isn't obscure enough for you there is also a chapter packed full of classic esoterica. Printed in a full colour A5 landscape format and with full colour topos and stunning colour photography throughout. The guide also has easy-to-follow approach maps for each area covered and has lots of useful information about bouldering ethics, weather, conditions, grades etc. Available now priced £22 published by Total-Climbing.com. Durham Climbing Centre have a special offer: Buy both Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Volume 1 and Volume 2  together at a special price of £36, (a saving of £6). Only while stocks last!  Read all our reviews here. Reviewed 4th April 2011

Price £22. Published by Total-Climbing.com.

 

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Mountains of Inspiration.  An exhibition by Hexham based climber Susan Dobson at The Gallery, Gateshead Library, Prince Consort Road, Gateshead, NE8 4LN Tel: 0191 433 8420. Susan, an experienced mountaineer and climber, has long felt an affinity with remote and wild places and has made numerous trips to mountain ranges at home and abroad. The prints and etchings featuring in this exhibition, “Mountains of Inspiration”, were inspired by her recent trips to the Himalayas and Dolomites. Susan spent the whole of February, based at the Annapurna Sanctuary. Susan’s striking and atmospheric images draw you into the landscapes, evoking memories of ever changing weather and light... It sounds superb, check it out! Exhibition Dates: Saturday 19 March – Saturday 30 April (closed Bank holidays). The Artist will be talking about her work at The Gallery on Saturday 9 April, 11am. Reported 31st March 2011

The Gallery, Gateshead Library

 

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The Newcastle Climbing Centre Climbing Festival is on Sat 16th April from 10.30am until 4pm on the mezzanine upstairs. The idea of the Climbing Festival  is to bring the local climbers and businesses together. Some of the stalls will be, Mountain Boot Company, Oblique Ceramics, Artist Chris Ridge, Clothing designers, bespoke chalk bags, boot demos from Tenaya, and food from Pilgrims Coffee House. We will  also have Instructors, Jon Punshon, Andy Hedgecock and Roxcool all there, telling people about what they do and the courses they run. All stall holders will be donating prizes to a hamper, one of which is a £140 voucher from Montane. The hamper will be raffled off with proceeds going to The Percy Hedley Foundation. The charity helps severely disabled adults and children take part in sports that would not otherwise be possible without the support and time from the Foundation. Reported 25th March 2011


 

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New Grey Circuit at Climb Newcastle. Guest Setters Percy Bishton and Martin Smith have set a radical Grey Circuit at Climb Newcastle. Percy Bishton is one of the owners of the Climbing Works in Sheffield and an experienced international route setter, and Martin Smith is an international comp climber and one of the owners of City Bloc bouldering wall in Leeds. It should be interesting! Reported 23rd March 2011

New Grey Circuit at Climb Newcastle

 

 

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Monk Life sees multiple repeats. Micky Page Page returned to Kyloe in the Woods to take some  photos on Monk Life with photographer Mark Savage for Mark's forthcoming book which will be a celebration of climbing in Northumberland. "Micky got warmed up while I got my gear set up, then he got on it and did it first go, making it look easy. Then he did it again, and again.... and again!" read the full story and see the pictures on Mark's blog here. Reported 16th March 2011

 

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BMC North East Area Gathering. The BMC’s NE area is about to hold its first meeting in quite some time on Monday 28th March. There is a new venue: West Park Café, 4 Tillage Green, Darlington, DL2 2GL and there are some new faces. Lloyd Murray has agreed to chair this first meeting, and he is brimming with enthusiasm for getting things done and making progress: all good news! The meeting will start at 7.30pm prompt. Free food will be laid on by the area team in the form of soup, sandwiches, cake and scones. Hot drinks will be served and there is a bar there too. The agenda for the evening is on the BMC Community Website. After the meeting, Kriton MacKenzie will do an audio visual presentation entitled “Scotland to the Himalayas”.  Reported 14th March 2011
 

 

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The British Youth Competition Results. There was a great turn out for the final round of North East and Lakes, British Youth Competition at Newcastle Climbing Centre on Sat 5th March. Everyone who entered came away with goody bag from the sponsors Berghaus, La Sportiva, Climb magazine & Rockworks Climbing.   Congratulations to the winners: Sam Bullock, Anna Taylor, Jack Graham, Emily Winterhalder and Sam Brannigan. For the full competition results and more info check out The BMC Website. The National finals will be held on 25th June 2011 at Wolf Mountain in Wolverhampton. Reported 8th March 2011

 

 

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Wild Vision at The Gala Theatre Durham Tonight. Internationally acclaimed photographer John Beatty is currently touring UK theatres with a fantastic evening of stories and images from his journeys into the wilderness, kindly sponsored by leading outdoor travel clothing company Rohan. John is widely acclaimed as one of the most exciting and stimulating nature, travel and adventure photographers to have emerged in recent years. He has dedicated his life to capturing the magnificence of the natural environment through his lens and has travelled to over 38 different countries. His audio-visual presentations infuse his audiences with energy and wonder at the beauty of our planet. With images and footage from the ferocious volcanic eruptions in Iceland, the Great Migrations of the Serengeti and the beauty of his native Peak District. "John Beatty's audio visual show is awesome, unique and unforgettable." Steve Crowe. More info here.  Reported 3rd March 2011

 

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FRANCE-Côte d'Azur by Chris Craggs

Rockfax's second selective guide to France is filled with inspirational ideas for your forthcoming Easter trip. Packed within its 400 pages it includes over 25 superb crags along the sunny Mediterranean Coast of France, from Marseille to Monaco. It also includes inland venues such as Sainte-Victoire, Chateauvert and the Verdon Gorge. With the usual excellent photo diagrams and clear maps it is easy to get an appreciation of the crags even before you leave home! Chris Craggs has been climbing in France since the 1980's and this guide reflects his detailed experience and knowledge of the area. The guide seems well balanced with a good mix across grades of both single and multi pitch routes it offers something for all tastes. Further reading on UK Climbing. There is also a third edition in the Rockfax France series due out later in 2011 covering the South West from the Ardeche to Gorges du Tarn (Languedoc-Roussillon) however there is enough clear and concise information in this one volume to provide sufficient climbing for many years to come!  FRANCE Côte d'Azur by Chris Craggs is be available now, price £24.95. Read all our reviews here.  Reviewed 3rd March 2011

FRANCE Côte d'Azur by Chris Craggs

 
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Monk Life repeated by Nigel Callender. Nigel is an Irishman studying medicine in Newcastle (and studying climbing in Byker!). He has spent the last three years working his way through many of Andy Earls Nothumberland test pieces. Yesterday he managed to claim the 5th ascent of Malcolm Smith's desperate Monk Life 8b+ at Kyloe in the Woods. Afterwards Nigel had this to say "Six sessions, 26 years of preparation. I hereby announce my retirement." Read the full story and watch the video on Nigel's blog here. Reported 28th February 2011

Nigel Callender Monk Life 8b+       Photo: Paul Ogden

 
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Shiatsu Works! Shiatsu is an ancient Japanese physical therapy and system of healing. James is an experienced climber and can adapt his treatment sessions for the unique needs of rock climbers. The positive effects of regular Shiatsu treatments for a climber include using Shiatsu to; reduce muscle fatigue, increase energy levels, improve flexibility and enhance performance. Shiatsu treatments may be delivered before or after a climbing session. James is offering to maintain climbers sessions at 2010 prices of £35.00 until the end of this winter. Shiatsu Works is based in South Shields. Reported 24th February 2011

Shiatsu Works is based in South Shields.

 

 

 
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SHAFTOE CRAG – PARKING PROBLEMS. Unfortunately there was a spate of inconsiderate parking at Shaftoe Crag last year. As a consequence the Farmer has requested that climbers do not park near the lake (marked as ‘Limited Parking’ in the Bouldering Guide) but instead park on the right immediately after the cattle grid before going down the hill. This is a private road and vehicular access is a privilege not a right. Please respect the Owners wishes and drive and park responsibly. More on UKB. Reported 23rd February 2011

Shaftoe Crag

 

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LLEIDA CLIMBS by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada now has a website. In recent years the Catalan province of Lleida, situated in northeast Spain, has become increasingly popular and LLEIDA CLIMBS is an excellent selective guidebook covering twenty one different zones and featuring close to 2,000 single and multi-pitch routes, from grade IV to 9b. "We have just started a blog (www.lleidaclimbs.com) to accompany the LLEIDA CLIMBS guidebook, giving information about new sectors and updates for the existing guide." Pete O'Donovan. For more information about the guide, and for updates if you already own it, visit www.lleidaclimbs.com Reported 28th January 2011

 

LLEIDA CLIMBS

 

 
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Rally called to Save Lakeland’s Forests. Organisers of a campaign to stop the Government selling off the Lake District’s publicly owned forests have announced plans for a rally in Grizedale Forest at 1pm on Sunday 30th January. The Government is about to launch a consultation on selling off England’s public forests, including more than 30 forests and woodlands across the Lake District such as Grizedale, Whinlatter and Ennerdale. Legislation is also going through Parliament that would give ministers the power to sell off all the forests currently managed by the Forestry Commission. The rally will hear speeches from Lord Clark of Windermere, a former Chairman of the Forestry Commission and the chair of the All Party Group on Forestry in Parliament; Eric Robson who is the Chairman of Cumbria Tourism and the Wainwright Society; Jack Ellerby from Friends of the Lake District; and the chair of Save Lakeland’s Forests Paul Townsend.

Lord Clark says: “This is a great opportunity to send a signal to the Government, MPs and members of the House of Lords about the strength of opposition to selling off the public forests. This is not just about the Government’s consultation. The more urgent need is to do everything possible to change the Public Bodies Reform Bill to stop ministers being able to sell off these forests; and the first chance to do that will be in the House of Lords in the next few weeks. “I urge as many people as possible to come to Grizedale Forest on Sunday 30th of January - walkers, mountain bikers, families, and people walking their dogs - just as millions of people do in our public forests every year. If we don’t stand up now and show how much these wonderful green spaces mean to us we risk losing them forever.” The rally will take place on the meadow next to the main car park at Grizedale near Hawkshead.

Eric Robson says: “Selling off the public forests in the Lake District would be a disaster for tourism in this beautiful corner of the country and for biodiversity. Whatever ministers try to tell us, they cannot guarantee the same level of public access to these forests if they are sold off or the same high standards of environmental protection. Trying to suggest otherwise is simply misleading.” After the speeches people will be encouraged to write comments about what the public forests mean to them on cards in the shape of a tree, which will be taken to Parliament by Lord Clark. The campaign to Save Lakeland’s Forests was launched this month by Paul Townsend, a former parish councillor, who lives at Satterthwaite near Grizedale, and has already received national media attention. The campaign has even been contacted by French TV.

Thousands of people have visited the campaign website – www.savelakelandsforests.org.uk – and hundreds of people are also following the group’s updates on Facebook and Twitter. Nationally, over 160,000 people have signed a petition organised by 38 degrees against the Government plans.  Paul Townsend commented “We’ve been delighted by the amount of support we’ve been getting. There have been many messages of support and offers to help the campaign. It shows just how much the Lake District’s forests and woodlands mean to people – not just those who live here but many people across the whole country.  “It’s important for people to come along and show their support on Sunday. It’ll be a great day out and a chance for us all to play our part in putting a stop to the Government’s plans to sell off our forests. “We’d also encourage everyone to sign the national petition organised by 38 degrees. There’s a link to the petition on our website as well as details about how to contact your local MP and the Environment Secretary.” For more information visit www.savelakelandsforests.org.uk 
Reported 28th January 2011

 

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Newcastle Indoor Climbing Comp - 28th January - 18th February 2011


Don’t worry about trying to finish the comp in a day – You’ve got over 2 whole weeks and you only pay once for your score card £1.00..!

 

Prizes - there are prizes galore in every category worth hundreds of pounds sponsored by Rockworks Climbing.


Hand in your scorecard after every session and  your scores will be posted up on the table, everyone has the chance of winning a Bouldering Mat £120 & 10 climb pass.


How does it work?? - Grades are from 5 to 7b+ that’s 12 routes to go at all you do is:


• Pay for your £1.00 for scorecard (after entry)

 

• Choose your category (no cheating)

 

• Mark your card & hand it into reception, next time you climb ask for your scorecard.

 

• You have got 2 weeks to complete the comp

 

• All scorecards go into prize draw for Bouldering Mat, Fingerboard & Clothing so everyone has the chance of winning

 

• Prize Draw and Winner announced Fri 18th Feb 8.30pm

 

The comp routes will be set by Mickey Stainthorpe and Mickey Page. More details at Newcastle Climbing Centre Reported 27th January 2011

 

Photo: Mark Savage

 

 
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Tom Bolger on Fire! Following on from his recent ascent of Ciudad del dios 9a/+ which was his hardest redpoint ever. Tom has now also upped his onsight grade to 8b+ with his ascent of L'Ments at Monsant. This is what Tom had to say "I had only ever been to Montsant once before, 3 years ago, but had seen the stunning line of L'Ments 8b+. I remember standing at the bottom of it too intimidated to get on it. Well 3 years on and there I was tying in, getting psyched up for the onsight go. This time I had decided that I was going to approach it differently, in the past I have approached routes onsight too psyched up, jittery, full of nerves and have blown them on some subtle foot move or pumped out over gripping. The route went really well, I had to battle and there was definitely a couple of moves were it felt really close, but I managed to stay relaxed and keep my head together right until the chains, keep those thoughts of "I'm going to do it" at bay. " Read Tom Bolger's Blog here. Reported 25th January 2011

Tom Bolger on Ciudad del dios 9a/+ at Santa Linya    Photo: Steve Crowe

 

 
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The Big Vertical Marathon is a unique challenge to raise money for Cancer Research UK. In one week touring seven of England’s best indoor climbing walls the team will climb the total marathon distance, but upwards! This has never been done before, and they would like you to join them for the adventure. They will be visiting the Newcastle Climbing Centre on Wednesday 26th January 2011.  Read all about The Big Vertical Marathon here. And could you be the Beast of Beasts!? The guys from Beastmaker are joining the tour in a search for the ultimate chin up champ. You'll have 1 minute to squeeze out as many chin ups as you can. The most chin ups in one minute by the end of the week will walk away with a Beastmaker fingerboard. Reported 23rd January 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 
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This Weekend is Black and White. The new White Circuit at Climb Newcastle is a technical masterclass, that requires tenacity and technique and will not submit to beefiness and brawn.  Meanwhile at  Durham Climbing Centre Micky Page has set a new hard and interesting Black Circuit. Check them out! Reported 21st January 2011

The new White Circuit at Climb Newcastle

   

 
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Success in The Woods for Micky Page. Micky has just returned from a very successful trip to Switzerland which included the 4th ascent of From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C) in Chironico, he also climbed Big Paw (8C) and Entlinge (8c), Entlinge was dispatched in three sessions! Back home for January he has been up to Kyloe in the Woods where he has made the 4th ascent of Monk Life (8B+). Malcolm Smith made the first ascent in 2003, with Andy Earl repeating Monk Life soon after. John Gaskins recorded the third ascent.  Details from UKB. Micky is setting a new hard black circuit at Durham Climbing Centre on Friday... it could be VERY HARD!  Reported 19th January 2011

Malcolm Smith and Andy Earl climbing the Monk Life 8b+      Photos: Steve Crowe

 
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Hard Climbs hit Durham Climbing Centre. Last friday Mickey Stainthorpe set an awesomely desperate set of red problems ranging from V4 - V8 but mostly hard and very interesting. Micky Page will be pushed to raise the bar with the new hard black circuit he will be setting next friday. A week later is the Junior Competition on Saturday 29th January 2.30pm - 4.30pm. Details below:

 junior_comp_poster.jpg

 

 
bulletBMC British Bouldering Championships results: Shaua Coxsey was in impeccable form crushing all the problems with ease to post the perfect score and steal the show as first place Senior Female. Ned Feehally qualified for the senior final in first place and secured victory in the final based on countback. Adam Watson was very close behind but finish 5th in a very tight men's final. In his last season as a junior Sam Brannigan qualified in first place and held his nerve to win in the final topping all four final problems in eight attempts. Tara Hayes was first placed Junior female. Full results on the BMC website. Reported 16th January 2011

 

 
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Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. The results of Round 3 are now in! Karin Magog was on good form finishing first female and eighth overall with an excellent 301 points. Joanne Quinan was only seven points behind in second place. Alisha Brownlee was first junior female and all the extra training paid off for Sue Leyland coming first vet. Senoir Male, Andy Asquith was first overall with an excellent 325 points closely followed by Steve Roberts who was just behind with 321. Steve is lying in first place for the series with two rounds to go. Sam Brannigan scored an excellent 318, however Jack Graham posted a very impressive 268 to finish second ahead of Will ChamberlainRichard Davies arrived early and left posting 314 points. Martin Waugh came closest to matching that with 311. Everyone was pleased to see John Earl back in action scoring an awesome 240 in the "Super Vets" well ahead of his main rival a very disappointed Tommy Smith! The full results are here! Once again the evening finished of with a fantastic free raffle with great prizes donated by Snap, E9 and many others. The only rule is that you have to be there to win!  Reported 16th January 2011

 

If you weren't there on friday then you have missed this one!

 
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Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. Round 3 of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series takes place this Friday 14th January, between 1pm and 9pm.
After a fantastic first two rounds the fun continues, the format however is much the same!
- 35 problems, mixed together between fun and easy, moderately taxing, hard, harder and ridiculous.
- One £50 problem.
- An incredibly generous raffle.
- No extra cost, just normal entry fee.
- The chance for the winning juniors (U16), adults and vets (45+) to get their name on the WBS trophy and win overall prizes.  
Reported 10th January 2011

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series Round Three.

 
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Andy Earl is making a Steady Recovery. Many of you may have read  in the Evening Chronicle that Andy regained consciousness on Christmas Eve and that Suzan gave birth to a baby daughter Amber, on Christmas Day. I am pleased to read  the climbnewcastle web site that Andy continues to make steady and positive progress. He has now moved to an ordinary ward and has began his long rehabilitation. Andy's family have asked that at this stage people do not visit him unless they are close friends or family and then only in consultation with the family. We all wish Andy a full recovery.  Reported 9th January 2011

Get well soon Andy, we are all missing you!

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Winter Bouldering Series. There was another excellent turn out and everyone enjoyed a great evening. Adam Watson made the perfect score of 250 points by flashing all the problems. The results are now online here. A selection of photographs by Steve Crowe can be seen here Reported 8th  January 2011

Adam Watson won with the perfect score.

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Winter Bouldering Series. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog are route setters for Round Three on Friday 7th January 2011. There will be 25 problems across the grade range from very easy to very technical,  and perhaps the odd very big dyno!  Both have over 20 years experience both at route setting and competing at a national and international level. "We are both keen route climbers so you can expect sustained and technical problems." Steve Crowe. To find out what Karin has been up to read her blog here. Gaz Parry's set from Round One will be stripped to make way for the Round three problems.  Reported 2nd January 2011

Early Bird Entry from about 3pm.

 
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Welcome to 2011. Clear your head and start to burn off the seasons excesses at Climb Newcastle.  The wall is open on New Years day from 10am - 4pm, and are offering free coffees for everyone who turns up to climb on the first day of 2011. Reported 1st January 2011

Free coffee at Climb Newcastle

 
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Seaside Icefalls at Saltburn. Jason Wood has climbed a few ice smears up to grade 4 on and around the main cliffs at Saltburn. It may already be too late to get in for a quick repeat but if the temperatures drop again... The main lines still await a first ascent. Reported 24th December 2010

Photos by Jason Wood.    Click the images to enlarge.

 
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The fifth annual REEL ROCK Film Tour is arriving on Tyneside. This year, REEL ROCK turns five, and co-founders Sender Films and Big UP Productions are celebrating by taking you on a global ride like never before. From death-defying speed link-ups of the wildest faces in The Alps, to Olympian displays of strength and tenacity on the hardest boulders ever climbed, REEL ROCK 2010 features a breathtaking journey through the vertical realm with the heroes of rock and snow. Tyneside Cinema Wed 29th Dec 8.30pm tickets on sale at the Box Office. Ticket prices: £7.50 full price | £6.50 concessions / VIP Area £10.00 full price | £9.00 concessions. Tickets are available directly from The Tyneside Cinema www.tynesidecinema.co.uk. More info on the Newcastle Climbing Centre web site and reelrocktour.com. Reported 21st December 2010

More info on the Newcastle Climbing Centre web site.

 
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Tom Bolger tops of 2010 with yet another hard redpoint.  Tom quietly dispatched the mega Blomu 8c+ at Santa Linya yesterday. Tom has enjoyed a fantastic year with ascents of Open Your Mind Direct 9a, Fuck the System 9a, Direct into Your Fabelita 9a, and many more hard ascents. Toms ascents are so low key that they don't even get a mention on his own blog! http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/  Elsewhere Gaz Parry recently added Mala Hierbes 8c to his growing list of hard ascents. Gaz keeps his blog more up to date! http://www.gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/. Finally Alan Cassidy recently added Cous Cous 8c at El Chorro to his list of achievements and today onsighted Mamacita 8a also at El Chorro. "If I take the guide book grade of 8c, then this is my first 8c "in-a-day" and marks a major milestone in my climbing." You can keep up with Alan Cassidy on his blog at: http://alancassidyclimbing.blogspot.com/.   Reported 21st December 2010

Tom Bolger on his next project at Santa Linya    Photo: Steve Crowe

 
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Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. Round 2 of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series takes place this Friday 17th December, between 1pm and 9pm.
After a storming round 1 the format is much the same...
- 35 problems, mixed together between fun and easy, moderately taxing, hard, harder and ridiculous.
- One £50 problem for most to dream of winning and one to take home the glory and the money.
- An extraordinarily generous raffle.
- Zero extra cost, just normal entry fee.
- The chance for the winning juniors (U16), adults and vets (45+) to get their name on the WBS trophy and win overall prizes.
- And new for the 3rd year of the event are our special one day only volume creations.
Reported 17th December 2010
 

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Andy Earl took very ill last Thursday whilst route setting in Alnwick. He was taken to the RVI in Newcastle and is currently stable but is still in intensive care. All our thoughts are with Suzan and his family. We wish Andy a full and speedy recovery. Read more on UK Bouldering. Reported 16th December 2010

Andy Earl climbing at Crironico

 
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Lleida Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada Out Now! Catalunya is becoming an increasingly popular sport-climbing destination with brilliant crags set amongst some of the wildest scenery in Western Europe. However, the cliffs of its most westerly province, Lleida, have not yet received the attention they deserve, especially when compared to those in other parts of the region, such as Montserrat near Barcelona, and Siurana, Margalef and Monsant in the Costa Daurada.  LLeida Climbs is a selective A5 format guidebook with 336 pages covering almost 2000 climbs in 21 climbing areas, featuring everything from sandstone bouldering, and desperately hard single pitch routes on world-famous cliffs like Oliana, Terradets and Santa Linya, to stunning, bolt-protected, multi-pitch expeditions in the magnificent limestone gorges of Montsec and on the Granite of the Catalan Pyrenees. Areas covered include: Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Cubells, Alòs de Balaguer, La Pauta, Santa Ana, Os de Balaguer, Tartareu, Santa Linya, Àger, Terradets, Vilanova de Meià, Abella de la Conca, Collegats, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Perles, Tres Ponts, Cavallers, Cova de Juncosa, El Cogul. Text is in English, Catalan & Castilian. Available in climbing shops from November 2010, at a price of £27.95. Order now.   Reported 28th October 2010

Lleida Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada Out Now!
 

 

 

 
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British Bouldering Champion to run Masterclasses at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Current British Bouldering Champion, Nigel Callender, will run a four hour in depth Masterclass at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  Cost is only £30 per person which includes climbing wall entry fee. Dates: 6th November and 21st November. Time: 2pm - 6.30pm. There is a limit of six persons per session so book early to avoid disappointment. Full details at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Reported 27th October 2010

 
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Bouder for Fun at the Berghaus Wall. Berghaus and Eldon Leisure are pleased to promote a bouldering competition to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Berghaus Wall. The competition will take place on the Berghaus Wall which is situated in the Eldon Precinct in the centre of Newcastle Upon Tyne and is open to entries from all age groups. There are separate event categories for adult males and females; junior males and females and veteran (over 50) males and females. Berghaus, the main event sponsor have donated generous prizes with first prize for the adult events being a £500 voucher to spend in their stores or online. The entry fee of £20 includes a free competitor's T shirt and an entry to the post competition party where there will be a free buffet and disco. Those old enough to remember the Boulder for Fun competitions at the Berghaus Wall in the 1990s will recall the fantastic time had by all, both competing and partying. This is the event NOT to miss in 2010!! Further details and application forms from Berghaus Wall at Eldon Leisure. Reported 25th October 2010

 
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Free Climbing in Newcastle City Centre. Saturday 23rd October, 12-3PM at Grey’s Monument. This is a great opportunity to try climbing on our mobile wall for FREE. Experts will be on hand to demonstrate some basic techniques and you’ll be climbing unassisted in no time. An hour’s rock climbing will burn more calories than any other sport. Indoor climbing is one of the UK’s fastest growing sports with hundreds of people taking part each week across the country. Go on, why not try a sport that makes exercise fun? Climbers must be 7 years and over. Want to climb more? Try these local climbing centres. Reported 22nd October 2010

www.activenewcastle.co.uk 

 
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Roxcool Sponsor Winter climbing nights at Sunderland Wall. £1 off entrance after 1700hrs for every full member (groups not included). So come along on the first Monday in the month and get yourself a good deal to enjoy a great night of climbing at Sunderland Wall "The North East’s premier climbing venue". Learn more about Roxcool here. Roxcool Mondays are: Monday 1st November 2010, Monday 6th December 2010, Monday 10th January 2011, Monday 7th February 2011. Monday 7th March 2011 Reported 21st October 2010

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Climb Newcastle is Two. On Friday 22nd October Climb Newcastle will be two years old and to celebrate the centre is holding a birthday party and fun competition with everyone invited! 1pm-9pm: Come and try 35 problems at the centre any time during the day, that'll be 30 problems ranging from very easy to very hard, plus 5 "special" problems to try. Watch out for this year's Byker Groove challenge where you can take on groove-specialist Chris Graham for a special prize: think you're flexible enough? (Note: Chris has been spotted practising the splits especially for the occasion. Ed!). This is very much a fun competition (although very good practice for the upcoming Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series) which means there will be problems for everyone and prizes will be raffled in true Climb Newcastle giveaway styly. 8:30pm-11pm: Come join in at The Punch Bowl in Jesmond for the after-party where there'll be food and birthday cake, plus raffle at 10pm, all you need is to have entered a scorecard earlier in the day to have a chance of winning a prize. For more info check the Climb Newcastle website here. Reported 18th October 2010

Ben Dawson trying the 2009 Byker Groove Challenge

 
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Durham Climbing Centre will celebrated its 3rd birthday with a one off special event.  Tom Newman provided a challenging set of 25 problems ranging from not very easy to very hard.  Adam Watson won with 231 points out of a possible 250. First placed junior Jens Signer scored and impressive 164 points. Edinburgh based Anna Trybis had a worthwhile trip picking up first female with 124 points. Mick Gardner was first Vet with 141 (just 9 points ahead of The Editor!) Karin Magog found 114 points enough for first Female Vet.  More details, pictures and full results here Reported 17th October 2010

 
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North York Moors Bouldering Meet 22nd - 24th October. Beta Guides invites everyone to join in. The Meet will start at Blakey Ridge on Friday October 22nd. The Lion Inn will allow camping for the meet even though a sign says otherwise.  There is lots of open projects to try, at all grades. Everyone is welcome.  The meet will start at 6pm at the lion Friday from there some night bouldering at Rosedale head or Ravenswick if Its raining as you can climb on black wall in the rain - "Its also the Stoney Middleton of the Moors!"

Friday  23rd October.  Gather at 6pm, small wild campsite adjacent to The Lion Inn up on Blakey Ridge,  from there some night bouldering at Rosedale Head.

Saturday 23rd October.  Meet at 10am beside The Lion Inn - will be at Ingleby - projects - circuits and new development to be investigated.
Sunday 24th October.  Meet at 10am beside The Lion Inn - The Wainstones and Cold Moor - projects - circuits and potential new development there too.

You need to be there to enjoy some of the best bouldering the North Yorkshire Moors has to offer. More details on BetaGuidesBlog. Updated 16th October 2010

 
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EDINBURGH MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL (EMFF) 2010 DELIVERS MOUNTAINS OF ADVENTURE The 8th Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival (EMFF)soars back into the capital from Thursday 21 - Sunday 24 October 2010. The main event is staged at George Square Lecture Theatre in Edinburgh, with special extra events being held at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena at Ratho. As always, it promises to be a weekend packed full of inspiration and entertainment, with an impressive diversity of speakers and a selection of films delivering lots of high drama and painful wipeouts! The EMFF has built a reputation as a fun, lively and inspiring event and this year will continue that trend.

Highlights will include the first Edinburgh lecture by local cyclist Mark Beaumont about his latest cycling and mountaineering journey through the Americas. Part-time extreme mountaineer and full-time taxman Mick Fowler will share stories from his recent trip to Vasuki Parbat in the Indian Gharwal Himlaya, while Twid Turner will also provide inspiration for climbers with his tales from his expedition to Baffin Island. Meanwhile, renowned explorer Benedict Allen will entertain and thrill festival attendees with his impressive resume of adventurous expeditions across the globe.

The festival, staged in association with Tiso & Wilderness Journeys, expects over 2,500 outdoor enthusiasts to attend the event. These will include climbers, skiers, snowboarders, mountain bikers, walkers, as well many others who simply have an interest in travel and adventure.

There are many remarkable films as well, with Catherine Destivelle's 'Beyond the Summits' taking the role of the epic, while Leo Houlding stars in The Asgard Project - a multi-award winning, high-octane climbing and BASE-jumping film by Alistair Lee. Most mountain sports are represented, including climbing, snowsports, BASE-Jumping, mountain culture and epic journeys, with a good combination of international and locally made films.

Sunday afternoon sees a new event with the screening of feature-length film 'Solo', about the tragic attempt of Andrew MacAuley to sea kayak from Tasmania to New Zealand. This will be followed by a debate on how much extreme adventurers are prepared to risk, & the ethics of this.

The festival will also include a number of events throughout October, some of which are free. These include a mountain photography exhibition and several 'Adventure Taster Sessions' which give you the chance to try kayaking, skiing, boarding and climbing. Social climbers, meanwhile, can enjoy social gatherings including the EMFF party at the Counting House on the Friday night.

Tickets and free programmes for the festival event will be available from Tiso stores and the Alien Rock climbing centres from 4th September.
For full details of the festival, see www.emff.co.uk 
Reported 10th October 2010

 
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Climbing Conditioning Workshops at Durham Climbing Centre Jack Walton, Bowen Therapist, is starting a series of workshops this month geared towards functional health and performance. Climbers can attend one or more workshops which take place once a month on a Wednesday over the next six months. New Red Circuit at Durham Wall; Dave Yarwood has been invited to set a new hard red circuit at Durham Climbing Centre this Friday! Finally, Durham Climbing Centre will celebrate its 3rd birthday with a special event on Friday 15th & Saturday 16th October. More details here Reported 7th October 2010

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More details here.

 

 
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Boot-Demo Bonanza at Climb Newcastle. This Wednesday 6th October Climb Newcastle will be hosting a Boot-Demo Bonanza with shoes from Boreal, Evolv and Scarpa all available to try out for free - an unprecedented chance to compare different shoes and make up your mind on your future rock shoe purchase. The shoes are available from 12 midday when the centre opens and throughout the day. Reported 3rd October 2010

Boot-Demo Bonanza at Climb Newcastle.

 
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Six Hundred Metres of New Routes are coming to Sunderland Wall. International route setters Ian Vickers and Jamie Cassidy will spend three days at Sunderland Wall from Tuesday 19th until Thursday 21st October 2010. All of the 23m lead walls will be fully reset.  To facilitate this work the 23m lead walls will be closed from 10am on Saturday 16th October 2010. "Never fear the affected walls will re-open on 21st October at 5pm for everyone to try!" Sunderland Wall. Elsewhere Climb Newcastle will set a new black circuit on 1st October and have a Boot Demo Night on Wednesday 6th October. Newcastle Climbing Centre has new routes and a new boulder circuit especially for the Outside In Event on Saturday 2nd October 2010. Durham Climbing Centre has some new Entre-Prise holds (including lots of crimps, edges and pinches!) and a new in house route setter - Tom Lee, who will be setting Pinks and Purples with the new holds on Friday 1st October. Durham Climbing Centre will celebrate its 3rd birthday with a special event on Friday 15th & Saturday 16th October. More details here Reported 30th September 2010

All of the 23m lead walls will be fully reset.

 
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Rockworks provide a new Boulder Park for London. The project was conceived by the London Borough of Redbridge in 2009, and funded by the London Mayor's Priority Parks Programme. The North East based company Rockworks was selected to build the boulders which were completed in June 2010. The boulders are situated in a leafy glade close to the main lake at Fairlop Waters. They offer sunny aspects and welcome shade throughout the day in a very pleasant location. Fairlop Waters Boulder Park can be easily accessed from Forest Road, and is only a 5 minute walk from Fairlop Tube Station. The Boulder Park consists of nine boulders of varying heights and shapes to cater for all standards from novice to expert. They are all designed for solo climbing. The easiest climbs will be found on boulders G,H & I. The higher boulders A,B,C & E all have thread belays for climbers who would like to use a top rope. Full details of the climbing can be found in the Fairlop Waters MiniGuide Acrobat Reader Required (www.adobe.com). Reported 27th September 2010

More photos and further information here.

 
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The Summerhill Boulder Park, Hartlepool. Summerhill is a 100 acre site on the western edge of Hartlepool which was created in late 1998. Summerhill has matured into a unique Country Park, set on the western edge of Hartlepool it is both a Local Nature Reserve and an Outdoor Activity Centre. You can enjoy most of the facilities on site, including rock climbing, free of charge with no need to pre-book. Unrestricted access is available day and night, so don't forget to pack your head torches! The Summerhill Boulder Park provides climbing on eight purpose built boulders that aim to recreate natural climbing areas. More information about Summerhill can be found on the sunny summerhill website. The most popular climbs are detailed in the new draft of the Summerhill MiniGuide. Any feedback on grades or description would be most welcome.  Reported 27th September 2010

Click images to enlarge. More pictures here: The Summerhill Boulder Park

 
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New Routes at Bizzle Burn on The Cheviot. Graeme Read and Simon Litchfield have continued their quest to clear up any unclimbed gaps in Northumberland with three fine new routes in one of the remotest spots in Northumberland. "I was gobsmacked to find such a clean, compact wall of rock hidden away from the crowds." commented Graeme. Details of their routes are as follows:

The Flying Fortress 18m E6 6a/b **
An excellent but serious and committing route which takes a fairly direct line up the centre of the impressive blank looking wall. Low in the grade but scary. Start directly below the centre of the wall. Climb up to a dubious flake at 3 metres (wire) and using tiny holds above lunge left to a hidden hold. Stand on this, move up to a small overlap (crucial cam, placed blind) and climb the centre of the wall on good but sometimes suspect flakes until a step left reaches some much needed gear (small wires and possible escape up a dirty groove). Once composed move back right until beneath the small roof and finish direct over it and the wall above in a sensational position.
FA Graeme Read, Simon Litchfield 30th August 2010
 

Devious Flightpath 19m E4 6a **
A very bold mid height traverse of the buttress finishing in a superb position on the right hand arete. Start to the left of The Flying Fortress below a groove. Climb the groove until a pull out right can be made level with the overlap in the centre of the wall. Traverse gingerly rightwards across the wall to the right hand arete (wires) and finish direct up it to The Flying Fortress belay.
FA Simon Litchfield, Graeme Read 30th August 2010
 

And finally one that can come off the secret list!


Dunsdale Crack 17m HVS 4c *
Climb the obvious crack on the right hand side of the buttress to the large ledge at half height (possible belay). Continue up the wall to the right of the arete to pull over on to a slab to finish.
FA Graeme Read, Stephen Kirkup September 2007

 

Devious Flightpath E4 6a Bizzle Crag The Flying Fortress E6 6a/b

 
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Newcastle Climbing Centre The Outside In Event Saturday 2nd October 2010. Boot Demos, Comps, Lectures, Prizes Galore! More details here. Reported 9th September 2010

 

 
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WEST COUNTRY CLIMBS by Mark Glaister
The latest Rockfax is a mighty tomb covering a vast area from Bristol down through Devon and Cornwall and finishing up along the south coast as far as Swanage. With so much quality climbing to cover I don't envy the task of it's author in deciding what to include and what to omit. This will always be a contentious issue. Personally if I'm making the effort to drive to the south west from the north east I'm unlikely to bother climbing in the Avon Gorge, so I would have rather seen some of those 24 pages dedicated to other areas such as Sharpnose, which is infuriatingly selective. This is perhaps true for many of the crags, with just enough routes to wet your appetite, thereby ensuring sales of the definitive guides to repeat visitors.
Once you get into the guide the number of crags covered is staggering. There's the ones I'd heard of such as the Avon and Cheddar Gorges, Black Church, Sharpnose, Tintagel, Pentire, Bosigran, Sennen, Chair Ladder, Lizard Point, Anstey's, Portland and Swanage. However, these crags are complimented by an array of other venues offering a good choice of climbing styles and rock-types. There's the various quarried venues such as Portishead and Cheesewring, the sports venue of Brean Down, the culm slabs of Gull Rock and Vicarage Cliff, the committing Carn Gowla and Gurnard's Head, the killas slate of Kenidjack, the superb granite cliffs around Land's End, the Dartmoor Tors and the outrageous looking Berryhead to name just a few. The guide's most impressive feature as always are the high quality photo diagrams, the work involved to compile them massive. To me this is a big selling point as they really offer a flavour of the style of climbing on offer. The diagrams are backed up with written route descriptions and the usual rockfax icons. The guide as always contains easy to follow maps, backed up with written approach info, and a paragraph on access/tides and conditions. There's also a reasonable selection of action photos covering the full range of grades and styles on offer.
The guide covers climbs of all grades, although those operating in the VS-E2 range are the most catered for. For those wanting trad routes of E4 and above there seems to be little new stuff to discover but all the classics (such as Fay, Pacemaker, Darkinbad, Il Duce and America) are covered.
With a guide of this size there will always be errors to find, perhaps the most blatant is the incorrect description of Coronary Country, which is described as climbing to the good spike of Fay before heading up to the pegs. This error first appeared in the 2000 CC guide (check the 1988 guide for the correct description) and the fact that it has been replicated here highlights how much Rockfax rely on the definitive guides for their information.
All in all though an excellent production and a must buy for all those climbers thinking of visiting this area of the country. There's enough routes in here to keep you going for several holidays, without visiting the same crag twice. This guide is a truly fine effort by the author Mark Glaister.
West Country Classics by Mark Glaister is available now for £24.95 from Rockfax. More reviews here. Reviewed by Karin Magog,
6th September  2010
 

 
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Climb Newcastle Summer Boulder Ladder 2010:  This Friday is the last day for taking part in Climb Newcastle's summer boulder ladder - a fun competition that has been taking place over the summer months with over 350 people taking part. (Check the latest "live" scores here.) To celebrate the last round Climb Newcastle are hosting one of their celebrated social events with a live DJ throughout the day, plus a raffle giveaway in the evening at the centre, with everyone welcome to come along to the Ship in Ouseburn afterwards. It's also a great opportunity to climb on 3 new features in the centre built over the last couple of weeks with new angles and new problems to play on. Reported 31st August 2010

 
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Newcastle Climbing Centre. The NICCS route climbing competition ends on Tuesday 31st August so be sure to get down and try to climb the rest of the routes. Check here for the latest scores. Reported 30th August 2010

Mick Gardener about to clip on the sandy 7a+

 

 

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Ladder. Its the 4th and final round of the Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Ladder 27th August - 3rd September! The final weeks problems were set by Micky Stainthorpe, they are all green & orange ranging from V0 - V8. To make it easier for climbers to assess grades of problems, we have added some coloured tags at the start of each problem stating the colour & grade. "As a big thanks to all competitors there will be a FREE BBQ and prizes event on Sunday 5th September 2 - 4pm. Everyone is welcome to come along. Check the scores so far here. Reported 29th August 2010

 
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Boulder for Fun (again) at the Berghaus Wall. To celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the Berghaus Wall in Newcastle they plan to run a Birthday Bouldering Competition. Newcastle Leisure Eldon and Berghaus have combined to run a bouldering competition followed by a party/disco on the evening of Saturday 4th December. Those old enough will remember the great Boulder for Fun events of the 1990's held at this top venue. Berghaus, the main sponsor, have agreed to provide £5000 worth of prizes in the form of cash value vouchers for their shops/webstore. It is anticipated that the event will attract a top field of competitors with prizes to the value of £500. Entry to the event is only £20 (U16 £15) which includes a free T shirt and entry to the disco and buffet in the evening. For further details visit:- www.newcastleleisure.co.uk/eldonleisure Reported 19th August 2010

Steve Crowe on the Berghaus Wall

 
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Epic Adventures Autumn 2010 Holidays. Gaz Parry and Kate Mills run a Coaching and Holiday company Epic Adventures. They are based in Spain on the Costa Blanca and are available for Rock Climbing Coaching and Guiding anywhere in the world.  "Literally anywhere you want to go Rock Climbing just ask us and we'll see what we can do. We do not focus purely on coaching and grade improvement, we want you to enjoy your holiday whatever standard you climb at or whatever you personal aim. The holidays we have advertised for Autumn 2010 are booking up fast as each course is limited to 4 clients per instructor. If you are keen to come on one of these courses we suggest you get in touch soon to avoid disappointment." Gaz Parry. More details can be found on the Epic Adventures website. Reported 7th August 2010

More details can be found on the Epic Adventures website.

 
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Northumberland New Route Update. Over the last few weeks Merlin Wall at Back Bowden Doors has been in awesome condition, with a lengthy spell of good weather the rock's had plenty opportunity to stay dry. Nic Ward, Ian Denton and Mike Rose have been cleaning up a few lines. The classic E5 Merlin has seen quite a few repeats, Nic soloed Mordreth E6 a week ago and last weekend he headpointed a hard direct line up the right hand end of the wall. Nic had this to say about his new line "It starts on the big sloping shelf where The Arches starts, but climbs direct over the nose of the roof via hard pulls to reach the mono of Macbeth, then continue straight up for the break, and top-out direct, where Macbeth goes off rightwards. It is plumb vertical line up the crag. If you reckon it's name-worthy I'd like to call it Sigurd (E6 6c)."  Reported 2nd August 2010

 

Nic Ward climbing Sigurd E6 6c and soloing Mordreth E6 6c at Back Bowden Doors

 
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North East Competition Fever. The north east climbing walls are competing for your attention this month. Durham Climbing Centre have a weekly bouldering series which starts on 6th of August and runs until 3rd September. Newcastle Climbing Centre are running a route climbing (top rope and leading) comp from the 1st August until 31st August. Finally there is less than one week left of the second round of the Climb Newcastle summer bouldering ladder. Friday is both the last day of round two and the first day of round three. Here is some help with one of the harder yellows, more videos clues here Reported 1st August 2010

 
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Raven's Scar has enjoyed the driest spell in recent years and has seen a flurry of activity. Steve Ramsden has climbed two new E7's either side of the crag's classic E5 Stratagem. A Different Kind of Blue (E7 6c) starts as for Satchmo before sweeping across impressive territory above Ch-Ching to finish as for Statagem. Collateral (E7 6c) climbs the often eyed hanging arête a few metres right of Stratagem. Read more on Steve's Blog. Richard Waterton recently linked the finish of A Different Kind of Blue with the start of Ch-Ching (E7) with  to give a stunning direct E7 all the way up the arête. Also Andy Reeve, ground upped A Different Kind of Blue and repeated Ch-Ching over two exciting days last weekend!  Meanwhile Tony Marr, who has been recording new routes on the North York Moors since the early 1960's has managed to unearth a few more gaps. Full details can be found here. There is also a free MiniGuide to Raven's Scar here. Updated 19th July 2010

Steve Ramsden on the first ascent of Collateral E7 6c.

 
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Power Endurance training at Climb Newcastle "We've had a few link-ups in the pool area over the spring so this time with the new purple problems we've done something a little different and linked the problems in the left side into the cave finishing up the 45 degree board. 11 problems in total" The second round problems in the Summer Boulder Ladder 2010 are Yellow. You can follow your progress via the Live Scoreboard Reported 16th July 2010

The second round problems are Yellow.

 
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New Crag Developed in Northumberland. "A handful of the routes on offer are, in our opinion, of top quality. Broken Promises, for example, is reminiscent of the superb Guardian Angel at Howlerhirst, Cossack Dancer similar to the three star South Yardhope test piece Quiet County, and Somewhere over the Rainbow provides one of the best outings of its grade in the County." Lower Tosson has recently been developed by Simon Lichfield and Graeme Read "Situated in a grand position above Coquetdale the buttresses may appear esoteric compared to its neighbours, but this is more than made up for by the generally excellent quality rock with interesting features and tremendous natural lines – including the largest roof in the county. It offers a great deal of variety to the climber, whether they be a VD or E5 leader, or a dedicated boulderer. In fact the bouldering potential has barely been tapped into..."  Read more on UKC. Reported 13th July 2010

 
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Fun Day at Durham Climbing Centre.  Sunday 18th July 12 - 4pm including: Half Price Climbing, BBQ, 3SIXTY Bicycle Display Team. Full details at www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk  Reported 12th July 2010

 

 
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Climb Magazine reviews Durham Climbing Centre. Climb Magazine has written an excellent review of your local bouldering wall the current issue. Read all about it in the August issue which is available from 8th July. "It is without doubt a bright and friendly centre with excellent bouldering and regular new circuits and some of the best coffee and Paninis around." Also featured in this edition - Leo Houlding in South Africa, Percy Bishton Bouldering in Portugal, Steve McClure (from Redcar) on Adam Ondra, and Dan "The Beastmaker" Varian (from Carlisle) on Training Tenacity  Reported 7th July 2010

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Climb Magazine reviews Durham Climbing Centre

 

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Rockworks Climbing and Newcastle Climbing Centre Joint Offers have now come into effect. Join a course or buy a pass at the Newcastle Climbing Centre and receive discount vouchers to be used in the Rockworks Climbing Shop, alternatively spend money and get free climbing vouchers for use at the wall. Please check the Rockworks Climbing Shop website for more details. New Opening Times Are in effect at the shop, weekdays we are now open 12am to 8pm and weekends from 10am to 6pm. This does not effect the Newcastle Climbing Centre opening times. Reported 6th July 2010

 

 

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Camper Van For Sale. Renault Traffic, P reg, 45000 miles, 2.1L petrol, Mot until Feb 2011. 6 months road tax. Underbody is sound. Body work around sills needs a little work. Engine is good. If someone spent a little money on the bodywork it could give several years of solid use.  The internal look of the van, is of very high standard. Blue/grey beech finish. hob/sink/ 3 way fridge/ leisure battery/ 2 single beds with my adaptation to a double bed/ porta potti- unused by me/indoor table/wardrobeand lots of storage. There is no shower/toilet. Price £5,000 ono. Please email The Editor at this address with your offers.  Reported 4th July 2010

 

 

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Wall to Rock with Newcastle Climbing Centre. Outcrop climbing involves visiting moorland crags and attempting single pitch routes of up to about 50’ in height. This one day course is designed for those who have perhaps started their climbing career in an indoor wall such as The Newcastle Climbing Centre and want to progress to the outdoors. The course will visit two of Northumberland’s classic sandstone outcrops and break the day up by having lunch in a pub. Participants will have the opportunity to climb, on a top rope, a number of routes of a grade suitable to their ability. After this course, most students feel happy to undertake visits, by themselves, to local outcrops, in the knowledge that they will be employing safe techniques. The next course is on Saturday 10th July. More details here. Reported 1st July 2010

Click the poster to enlarge

 

 

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Climb Newcastle Summer Boulder Ladder 2010 If you took part in the Climb Newcastle Easter challenge you will be familiar with the general idea - This time you get four weeks to try the problems and hand a scorecard in to take part. It's called a ladder because we'll be doing this three times (ie three rounds) so you can move up and down the "rungs" (positions) each month. Full details will be here soon. The dates to come and try the problems are as follows:
Round 1: 11th June -  9th July 2010
Round 2: 9th July -  6th August 2010
Round 3: 6th August  -  3rd September 2010

Nigel Callender competing at Climb Newcastle

 

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NORTH WALES CLASSICS by Jack Geldard.

This new guide, published by Rockfax, is pretty impressive, containing a vast choice of routes across North Wales all packed down into a pocket-sized book.  It's concentrated on the mountain areas  primarily (Gogarth, Llandudno, the Lleyn Peninsular and the slate aren't included) but also includes an excellent choice of routes at the popular roadside venue of Tremadog.  No guide to North Wales would be complete without the Llanberis Pass and Cloggy and both are included in some detail here, giving an excellent selection of classics in the VS-E3 range.  Where this guide excels however, is the selection of routes in lesser known areas such as Cwn Silyn, Lliwedd and Carneddau.  Along with Ogwen and Betws y Coed these 5 areas are packed with quality routes below HVS, including numerous multi-pitch VDiffs.  As one expects from a rockfax, each crag is accompanied with a clear photo-topo and the usual sketch map.  The routes all have clear written descriptions and details of the crag descent are highlighted on the photos.  Also included is a short but detailed winter section, just in case we get another winter like the last one. All in all a quality production which the author, Jack Geldard, deserves to be proud of.  There's plenty of routes to keep the low extreme climber busy but if you climb at HVS or below and enjoy a good day out in the mountains then this guide is a must. North Wales Classics by Jack Geldard is available now, at £16.95 from Rockfax. Read more reviews here. Also coming soon from Rockfax is a stunning new guidebook to the superb climbing found in south west England. West Country Climb by Mark Glaister covers a huge area from Avon through Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset.  The book will be A5 in size and produced in the same style and layout of the recent Lofoten and Western Grit books. More information can be found on the Rockfax website. Reviewed 1st June 2010

North Wales Classics by Jack Geldard is available now at £16.95, from Rockfax

 

 

 
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Trad Revival on Yorkshire Limestone. Many of the classic trad routes, on the very dry Yorkshire Limestone Crags, have seen a lot of ascents recently. One day this week there were more trad climbers at Kilnsey than Sport Climbers! Maybe its time to trade in that clip stick for a new set of wires? At Kilnsey; Wise Blood E6, Deja Vu E5, The Overlap E5, Central Wall E4, Friends in High Places E4, Dodger Direct E3 and The Diedre E2 have all been busy. Many more at Malham on the popular Right Wing and the Terrace have seen multiple ascents recently. Meanwhile The Cave Routes (Left Hand E6 and Right Hand E6 ) in Gordale have both seen numerous ascents over the last month. Please email The Editor at this address if you have anything to add.  Reported 29th May 2010

Chris Hope onsighting Right Hand E6 in Gordale     Photo: Steve Crowe

 
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Lakeland Raider spotted in Northumberland. Rob Fielding has been see prowling around a lot Northumberland recently. His many ascents included a quick repeat of the guidebook cover shot, Endless Flight Direct E8 7a. Then he added a stunning new problem PreperationH Font 8a  to Hepburn Wood.  "I would put it on a par with Queen Kong at Queens Crag and Eyes of Silence at Callerhues in terms of quality and difficulty." Rob Fielding.  Reported 27th May 2010

PreperationH Font 8a  Hepburn         Photo: Adrian Fielding

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Competition. Will be held on Friday 11th June 2.30pm - 10pm, with 35 problems & 4 final problems all set by Micky Page & Mickey Stainthorpe. This event is sponsored by Scarpa and Accapi.  For more information regarding up and coming events at Durham Climbing Centre check out their web site: www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk  Reported 22nd May 2010

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The Climb Newcastle Annual Spring Boulder Open (ASBO '10). Nearly 200 competitors fought with 35 testing black problems, including some technical nightmares - particularly a chimney that took most of the skin off one competitor's back and had a few people's pants (quite literally) down! With 5 male and 5 female competitors going through to the evening's final, the scores were tight for qualification, made tougher by junior Nathan Phillips and Joe Wilson who invaded north from Leeds taking the top spots in the men's. Adam Young, Micky Stainthorpe and Ged Mac made up the rest of the male field. In the females, Joanne Quinan, Holland's Fred Blok, Kate Watson and Rosie Helmore were joined by youngster Beth Walton. It was great once again to see juniors in both the male and female finals, taking advantage of the level playing field of the same problems for all categories.

At 9pm the 10 finalists were given a viewing period, shown around their 3 problems and sent into the corner. In came the 100+ strong crowd and the final was away. The girls started with a crowd facing bridged start, a little flick and off they went up the 30 degree board, all completing problem 1. The boys were looking strong too, all flashing number 1 as Chief-setter Andy Earl urgently tweaked the latter problems to make them harder. Girls 2 was tough, starting under the roof, a huge volume effectively made it a double roof. Most struggled to hit the lip of the volume, Fred got through but with the roar of the crowd agonisingly forgot where the last hold was. Joanne then pulled it out of the bag to take the lead.

The boys were quickly through 2 and jumping for glory on number 3 to a big ball suspended from the ceiling. It came down to Joe who had 2 goes to win. After failing on the first the tension was unbearable, but Joe stuck the jump, a deserved ASBO winner. On girls 3 the undercut move spat them all, until Joanne finished it all off in style to complete all 3 problems and take the ladies title.

You can check out all the photos from a dramatic night in Climb Newcastle's gallery watch a video of the spectacular final moments on youtube and see the full results here. It was an event that'll take some beating at ASBO '11 in a year's time! Reported 21st May 2010

 

 

 
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Summer Bouldering on the North York Moors. Lee Robinson and Steve Ramsden have again been scouring the North York Moors for more bouldering potential. This time they struck a pot of gold at Oak Crag.  "With summer here sandstone is a lot better to climb on and more forgiving than grit in the heat, plus the landscape is amazing." Lee. Check http://betaguides.blogspot.com/ and http://www.betaguides.com/index.php?country=england then browse the North York moors section. They have also made a recent visit to Earthwork Rocks, check out there video. Jason Wood has been active exploring the potential at The Bridestones and Ingleby Incline and adding a problem to The Wainstones. Meanwhile Simon Caldwell has been checking out some of the least popular routes at Peak Scar! Reported 19th May 2010

Steve Ramsden bouldering up at Oak Crag

 
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Durham Climbing Centre has made some big changes to the way the bouldering circuits are reset, with the top local routes setters being used to do the setting now and on a regular basis.

Last Full Reset - 14th May by Micky Page & Tom Newman

Next Circuit added - Friday 28th May by Mickey Stainthorpe - 25 - 30 extra probelms will be added to all main circuits - no problems will be removed.

Route Setting Plans - new circuit of 25 - 30 problems added every Friday by Top Local Setters - all circuits rotated over 10 week period.

More information online at www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk Reported 18th May 2010

 



 

 
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Iron Crag Classics are Clean. Graeme Reed and Al Wilson have independently been cleaning up many of the classic routes at Iron Crag in Thirlmere. Graeme concentrated on the left-hand buttress with superb routes like Hiddenite E2, Kryptonite E4 and Marble Staircase E4. Also worth checking out is the two E5's on the same buttress Black Gold and The Quest. Meanwhile Awesome Al has been cleaning up trio of superb hard extreme's The Committal Chamber E5, Western Union E6 and Phoenix in Obsidian E6 on the stunning right hand buttress. This could well be the year of Iron Crag! Join the discussion on UKC. Reported 11th May 2010

 

Ron Kenyon, belayed by Tim Whiteley on Steel Band

Photo Nick Warton

Nick Warton on 1st ascent of Amabilite

Photo by Tim Whiteley

Nick Warton on top of Granolithic/Solidarity

Photo by Tim Whiteley

 
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Climb Newcastle ASBO 10 was a fantastic success with another huge turn out.  Joanne Quinan put on a fantastic performance to win the senior female category, Junior Beth Walton also climbed really well to make the senior final. Helen Wells was first female Vet. Joe Wilson popped up from Leeds to take first place as Senior Male, another junior Nathan Phillips also made the finals. Martin Waugh has recovered enough from his recent injuries to easily make first Male Vet. Full results and pictures at www.climbnewcastle.com  Reported 11th May 2010

 
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Bleed In Hell! Despite seeping holds and blustery conditions, Mary Jenner has climbed the Borrowdale test piece Bleed in Hell E8 6c. The stunning arête of Hell's Wall was first climbed in 1992 by Mary's husband Dave Birkett and remained unrepeated for 7 years. Mary's ascent is the first female ascent of any E8 in the Lakes, it is an outstanding achievement. Dave Birkett on congratulating his wife said "Well done Mary, awesome effort. That's it, I don't need to come back to Hells Wall ever again!" The same afternoon Karin Magog and Steve Crowe climbed Inferno E7 6c but left the crag feeling that there effort was a little insignificant after Mary's ascent! "Mary very nearly climbed Bleed in Hell last week in the rain, it was awesome to watch, E8 in the rain! That's when I took the photo. She completely crushed it on Sunday." Steve Crowe. You can also read the discussion on UKC here Reported 5th April 2010

Mary Jenner climbing Bleed in Hell E8... in the rain!

 
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Climb Newcastle Easter Egg Challenge. This Easter weekend, with the weather looking iffy, get yourself down to Climb Newcastle where you can take part in their Easter Challenge. On Friday morning the team are setting a new yellow (very seasonal) circuit in the range fb 5 to 7c+. One lucky person who does the most yellow problems in each of the 6 categories of male/female junior/senior/vet will win one of the delicious (Thornton's) Easter Eggs belonging to Chris Graham, Climb Newcastle owner and self-confessed chocoholic. Plus it's a great opportunity to get your revenge on a mate who beat you in the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series! The challenge begins at 12:00 on Good Friday when you can pick up a scorecard, and ends at 10pm on Easter Monday. You can have as many goes as you like at the problems, you just need to get them done by close of play Monday. The centre is open normal hours for the whole weekend. Also going on at Climb Newcastle is their Easter Egg Hunt supervised kids sessions running throughout the school holidays from Good Friday to 16th April. More information on the Climb Newcastle website here: Easter Egg Challenge. Alternatively you could check out the desperate new Grey Circuit. More details here! Reported 31st March 2010
 

Chris guarding the Easter Eggs!

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Easter Egg Hunt. Sunday 4th April 2.30pm - 4.00pm. Come along to the Durham Climbing Centre for a fun Easter Egg Hunt with climbing fun and games! Enter the decorated egg competition! Just bring along a hard boiled egg decorated however you like to enter the competition! The wackier the better! £10 per child Phone 0191 3789555 to book! Easter Opening Times. Good Friday 10am - 9pm; Saturday 10am - 9pm; Easter Sunday 10am - 8pm; Monday 5th 10am - 6pm. Saturday & Sunday Rock Stars Kid's Clubs take place as usual. Phone 0191 3789555 to book! www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk   Reported 30th March 2010

 

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Durham Climbing Centre offers a brand new Treatment Clinic from Monday 29th March with Shiatsu Massage Therapist James Linton Hunter MRSS joining the DCC Team. Shiatsu is an ancient Japanese physical therapy and system of healing. The positive effects of regular Shiatsu treatments for a climber include using Shiatsu to; reduce muscle fatique, increase energy levels, improve flexibility and enhance performance. James himself is an experienced climber and understands the needs of the client. Shiatsu treatments may be delivered before or after a climbing session. Until May 1st, James is offering an a reduced rate on your first 60 minute session of £20 (usual price £35.00). Shiatsu Works @ Durham Climbing Centre takes place every Monday 12pm - 8pm. All treatments take place in our treatment room in complete privacy. Book your appointment now by phoning the centre on 0191 3789555. Reported 26th March 2010

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SHAFTOE CRAG – PARKING PROBLEMS. Unfortunately there has been a spate of inconsiderate parking at Shaftoe Crag. As a consequence the Farmer has requested that climbers do not park near the lake (marked as ‘Limited Parking’ in the Bouldering Guide) but on the right immediately after the cattle grid before going down the hill. This is a private road and vehicular access is a privilege not a right. Please respect the Owners wishes and drive and park responsibly. Reported 25th March 2010

Shaftoe Crag
 
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Sunderland Wall New Routes Coming Soon. The 23m lead walls will be closed from 10am Saturday 27th March till 5pm Thursday 1st April to allow for a full strip and reset! Setters will be Jason Pickles and Jamie Cassisdy. The rest of Sunderland Wall will be open for business as usual. Reported 25th March 2010

 
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Mingulay 2010. The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club are planning a week long trip to Mingulay from 29th May 2010. Mingulay is one of the best sea cliff climbing locations in the UK. This uninhabited Island in the Western Isles has acres of solid rough and clean rock with lots of brilliant routes across the grades and remaining new route potential. "There is already 14 people signed up and others that have expressed an interest so we have chartered a second boat. We have 6 places left to fill. You do not need to be an NMC member to come along. Have a look on the net or at Gary Latter's recent selective Scottish Highlands (North) guide if you need any further inspiration. This is not a trip for beginners. You need to have at least 3 years rock climbing experience and be climbing at least VS comfortably. And be happy being out of contact with the rest of the world for a week." Richard Pow. More details on the NMC forums. Reported 20th March 2010

Perfectly Normal Paranoia E6 Dun Mingulay

 
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Newcastle Climbing Centre. To mark Newcastle Climbing Centre's first birthday on the 26th of March, we are inviting our customers to join us for a free lecture with Alan Hinkes OBE. Start time 8pm & free to all registered users of the centre to book your place please ask at reception in person. Alan Hinkes is the first Briton to climb the world's highest mountains. These are the 14 8000m peaks, all of which are in the 'death zone', where human survival rate is measured in hours. They are the most dangerous mountains on the planet. Alan is part of an exclusive club of only 12 people alive who have achieved this feat, which is the same number of people who have stood on the moon.  More details on the NMC Announcments forum. Reported 18th March 2010

Listen to Alan Hinkes on 26th of March 2010 at 8pm at The Newcastle Climbing Centre

 
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Victory for Newcastle University... at last! On Saturday the British Universities & Colleges Sport (BUCS) climbing championships took place at the Climbing Works in Sheffield. Newcastle University's team came out top to win gold for the first time in the University's history and ended years of Sheffield domination. The Newcastle A team, consisting of Climb Newcastle owner and postgraduate student Chris Graham, and medics Nigel Callender and Rosie Shaw (also a Climb Newcastle coach) saw off tough competition to win the event, with Nigel also taking individual gold in a sensational climb-off. With a strong performance from Newcastle B also the future of climbing at Newcastle looks bright. The results aren't just good news for the teams, but also for the university with valuable points gained towards the overall BUCS league table, and justifies the superb support given by the University in the past for Chris and Rosie as former members of their Elite Athlete Squad. More about British Universities & Colleges Sport here: BUCS. Reported 17th March 2010

Congratulations to the Newcastle University teams and support squad!

 

 
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Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series provided an exciting climax with Tom Newman putting in an excellent performance to climb all the problems, posting an impressive 337 points. However he was beaten to the £50 cash problem by Micky Stainthorpe who obviously was then exhausted since he only managed a total of 31 points! Nigel Callender did enough to take the series (then went on to win the British University Championships at The Works the following day!). Karin Magog took first place with 274 points on the night and the series, with Libby Barrow pressing her all the way with 271 point for second place. Tom Rookes posted an impressive 300 points win and take the series too. Sid Graham had already done enough to win the series so didn't need to turn up for the final round!  Ali Mc Donald just pipped it with 202 points a mere two points ahead of Helen Wells, but that was more than enough to retain her Veterans crown. Tim Carruthers, who travelled across from the west especially, was first Vet with 299 points and a terrific 5th overall on the night. Steve Crowe was once again second on the night but this was consistent enough to take the Vet series. So after 5 rounds with 283 competitors, over 100,000 points won, £3000 of prizes raffled out and records smashed left, right and centre the 2009/10 Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series comes to an end with 1 title defended and 5 new winner's names on the WBS trophies. There is only seven months left to train for the next winter series!  Reported 16th March 2010

 

  Junior Female Junior Male Female Male Vet Female Vet Male
Round 5   Tom Rookes Karin Magog Tom Newman Ali McDonald Tim Carruthers
Series Sid Graham Tom Rookes Karin Magog Nigel Callender Ali McDonald Steve Crowe

Full results here: http://news.climbnewcastle.com/index.php?id=285

 

More pictures here: http://news.climbnewcastle.com/index.php?id=286

 
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Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series comes to its climax this Friday 12th March sees the with the 5th and final round. If you haven't been to one of the centre's Winter Bouldering Series event yet there is still time to get involved and it's great fun whether you are a casual climber or serious competitor. You have until 9pm to try 35 super new black problems from easy to hard, get a score, enter an unbelievably generous raffle with hundreds of pounds of prizes, watch the drama unfold as the region's top climbers battle it out for the WBS 09/10 crown, and generally have an amazing time! And what will all this cost you? Simply your normal entry fee. See the results so far and pictures here: Winter Bouldering Series. Reported 10th March 2010

 Winter Bouldering Series

 
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The BMC Youth Climbing Series is a series of fun climbing competitions specifically for young people with the emphasis on enjoyment. It is perhaps the most popular competition for young people attracting hundreds of entrants across the country. The competition is open to all within the age categories. So, whether you're an experienced climber or a beginner, this could be just the competition for you. There are three regional rounds in each of the BMC Areas then a British Final when the top 3 in each category from each of the BMC Areas, BMC Wales and the two Areas from Scotland take part. More details on the BMC website. The third round in the North East will be held at the Newcastle Climbing Centre on Saturday 13th March 2010  Reported 8th March 2010


 

 
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Durham Climbing Centre, Junior Climbing Event (7 - 12 years), Saturday 13th March 2.30pm - 4.30pm, Brand new routes, fun competition & games! Entry only £10 per child. Phone 0191 3789555 to book or visit www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk for more information. Reported 7th March 2010

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Newcastle Climbing Centre. Cassin & Camp Boulder Comp Results. The third and final round proved to be a tough test with most competitors scoring less that the previous round! Chris Cleveland found that he had already done enough to take the series ahead of Dave Smith. Bethany Walton unfortunately had not recovered from her knee injury so Karin Magog ended up a comfortable winner and 5th overall. First Junior Sam Branigan is one to look out for coming 7th overall. First Junior Female Carmel Moran climbed well and actually improved on her previous score. Steve Crowe managed first Vet! Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details and a selection of action photos.  Reported 6th March 2010

  Name Category Round 1 (x2) Round 2 Round 3 Total Best Two Scores  
1 Chris Cleveland Senior Male 236 277 0 513 513 Winner!
2 Dave Smith Senior Male 0 300 210 510 510  
3 Daniel Walton Senior Male 280 0 207 487 487  
4 Ben Wilson Senior Male 234 241 164 639 475  
5 Karin Magog Senior Female 0 255 207 462 462 Winner!
6 Stephen Crowe Vet Male 0 234 198 432 432 Winner!
7 Sam Branigan Junior Male 176 224 168 568 400 Winner!
8 Mark Hawkins Senior Male 176 0 181 357 357  
9 Joshua Watt Senior Male 0 170 121 291 291  
10 Matt Reeve Senior Male 234 0 0 234 234  
11 Paul Ogden Senior Male 228 0 0 228 228  
12 Jack Graham Junior Male 88 122 97 307 219  
13 Bethany Walton Senior Female 194 0 0 194 194  
14 Paul Linfoot Vet Male 180 0 0 180 180  
15 Tom Rookes Junior Male 176 0 0 176 176  
16 Joanne Quinan Senior Female 174 0 0 174 174  
17 Rosanne Helmore Senior Female 0 172 0 172 172  
18 Robert Clark Senior Male 0 0 160 160 160  
19 Andrew Rutter Senior Male 0 157 0 157 157  
20 Jon Cannon Senior Male 156 0 0 156 156  
21 Carmel Moran Junior Female 0 71 80 151 151 Winner!
22 Rachel Hoyland Senior Female 148 0 0 148 148  
23 Kathryn Pettit Senior Female 138 0 0 138 138  
24 Ursula Balderson Senior Female 0 134 0 134 134  
25 Luke Newns Senior Male 0 124 0 124 124  
26 Dave Stainthorpe Vet Male 0 0 117 117 117  
27 Lee Imrie Senior Male 0 107 0 107 107  
28 Nicola Sommers Senior Female 100 0 0 100 100  
29 Samantha Dainty Senior Female 0 91 0 91 91  
30 Rosie Atkinson Senior Female 88 0 0 88 88  
31 Lenny Stoneman Senior Male 0 80 0 80 80  
32 Peter Cleveland Vet Male 0 80 0 80 80  
33 Sarah Hawker Senior Female 0 0 41 41 41  
34 Tyler Clarkson Junior Male 28 0 0 28 28  
35 Luke Bendall Junior Male 14 10 10 34 24  

 

 
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Roseberry Topping Rockfall. A large part of the major Middlesbrough landmark has fallen down (offwidth crack area) leaving a very striking arête! As you can see from attached pictures of Roseberry Topping, the rock fall is substantial and any further additions to the routes on there would be for the very brave (or very mad). Take care out there after all the recent rain and heavy frosts there could well be more crags about to fall over! Reported 3rd March 2010

 

 
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Newcastle University Mountaineering Club presents: Extreme High with Tim Emmett (Thursday 11th March) only  £7 on the door. Tim is one of the world’s top extreme sports athletes specialising in rock & ice climbing, Deep water soloing and B.A.S.E. Jumping. In the last couple of years, Tim has become known for his ‘Para Alpinism’ – climbing a big mountain and then B.A.S.E jumping off in a wing-suit, flying to the ground reaching speeds of up to 250 MPH! Tim also appeared on BBC’s Top Gear, where he raced Jeremy Clarkson’s Audi to the top of France’s Verdon Gorge. In ‘Extreme High’ Tim will be talking about his incredible life, giving the audience an insight into the mindset of an extreme sports athlete. This event is a not to be missed and will be a highly entertaining evening!
Tickets are now on sale; tomorrow night and next Tuesday at the Strawberry from 9.30pm, at the ball, and a few lunchtimes next week. It’s open to the public so anyone who is interested can buy a ticket. For more info contact Newcastle University Mountaineering Club.
Reported 2nd March 2010


Extreme High with Tim Emmet

 
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New Moon at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  The new Moon 2010 spring/summer range has just arrived in the Rockworks Climbing shop. Everything from Jeans to Laptop Bags so get down to the Rockworks Climbing shop in Newcastle Climbing Centre to check them out. Shop online at www.rockworksclimbing.co.uk or contact the shop direct on 0191 2763624. Get down this Friday evening 5pm till 9.30pm for the third and final round of the Cassin & Camp Boulder Comp your best two scores count so you haven’t missed out on the prizes. Its free all you pay is your entry fee – all score cards in by 9.30pm. Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details. Reported 27th February 2010

 

Check out the new Moon Range at the final round of the bouldering series.

 

 
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Harrogate Climbing Centre is now open. Yorkshires newest climbing wall is situated at Hornbeam Park, Harrogate. They offer roped climbing lines and bouldering, catering for both the complete beginner and experienced climber, in a comfortable, friendly atmosphere. The wall has been established by the team behind the very successful Manchester Climbing Centre. Harrogate Climbing Centre provides an excellent venue, either for winter training sessions, or for those days when you get rained off in the Dales! More details can be found on their web site at harrogateclimbingcentre.com. Reported 22nd February 2010

 
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BMC in the North East. Ian Walton will be taking over Youth representative post, at the next North East area BMC meeting on Monday 22nd Feb, 8pm Stonebridge Inn, Near Neville's Cross, Durham. "We have four meetings a year which are held on a Monday evening at 8pm at The Stonebridge Inn, near Durham. Everyone is welcome and you may even get a free drink or some chips. It's also a great opportunity to hear our chair Alan Hinkes talk for free!" BMC  Reported 20th February 2010
 

 
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Auto Belays return to Newcastle Climbing Centre. Who needs mates, sick of waiting for your climbing partner to turn up? Don’t worry - Newcastle Climbing Centre now have three brand new Auto-Belays for you to train on so get down and get training. Customers using Auto-Belays must be registered members of the centre and competent in the use of the Auto-Belays, if you have any questions regarding them then ask an Instructor. Reported 17th February 2010

Newcastle Climbing Centre now have three brand new Auto-Belays

 
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The 4th Round of the Climb Newcaslte Winter Bouldering Series produced the best ever turn out with 153 competitors tackling the 35 problems. Some time in the mid-afternoon, and after considerable effort, Nigel Callender took the £50 cash problem (check out the video on youtube www.youtube.com/climbnewcastle) and went on to win the men's event, making him firm favourite to win the series. Karin Magog came out top in the ladies and topped off a good day by walking away with a Snap bouldering mat in the raffle. In the juniors, Sam Brannigan looks favourite to win the series if he can put in a good score in the final round whilst Sidonie Graham's solid score (albeit behind Beth Walton on the night) looks set to put her top on 12th March. And in the vets categories Ali McDonald and Steve Crowe have emerged strong favourites for the series, although Steve had to settle for second place on the night, outplayed by 3 points by an impressive Mick Gardener. The full results of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series can be found on their website. The series climax is on Friday 12th March 2010. Reported 15th February 2010
 

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series 2009/2010
             
  Adult Female Round 4     Adult Male Round 4
1 Karin Magog 276   1 Nigel Callender 326
2 Kate Watson 257   2 Ged Mac 317
3 Sian Oakley 247   3 Rich Gill 312
             
  Vet Female Round 4     Vet Male Round 4
1 Ali McDonald 185   1 Mick Gardener 284
2 Helen Wells 160   2 Steve Crowe 281
3 Sue Leyland 154   3 Rick Barnes 247
             
  Junior Female Round 4     Junior Male Round 4
1 Bethany Walton 241   1 Sam “kev” Brannigan 232
2 Sidonie Graham 200   2 Jack Graham 224
        3 Will Chamberlain 221

 
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New Bouldering wall in Northumberland. A new dedicated bouldering facility has been opened in Willowburn Leisure Centre in Alnwick. Designed and built by Andy Long with input from Gavin Ellis and Ben Moon,the wall offers 2000 square feet of textured plywood bouldering in various angles from slabs, gently overhanging walls, a horizontal roof section, and a 40 degree overhanging "Moonboard" designed and set by Ben Moon. This feature will allow problems to continually evolve, with the ability of users to upload and down load new problems and link with other "moonboards" based around the world via a website. This idea has been around for a while now but this is the first one in a commercial wall in the UK allowing open access to the general public, three more are presently being built around the UK with others already existing as far away as the US and Japan. Full details of the "moonboard" concept can be found at www.moonclimbing.co.uk/schoolroom/moonboard.

The rest of the wall has preset colour coded problems off all grades and styles and, as with all good facilities, these will be regularly changed to provide new challenges on a three monthly basis. The wall is conveniently located just off the A1 for those who get rained off in the county and is open seven days a week during the normal opening hours of the leisure centre. Full details of cost and opening times can be found at http://www.northcountryleisure.org.uk/alnwick/page/468
Reported 13th February 2010

  New Bouldering Wall in Alnwick Photos: Gavin Ellis  

 

 
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Durham Climbing Centre Half term Programme. Sessions are running for children every day during half term. These replace Tuesday and Thursday evening classes.  Just choose a date and time and contact Durham Climbing Centre to book a place! Reported 12th February 2010

half_term_poster.jpg

 
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Allcord Bouldering Series at Sunderland Wall Results. Tom Rookes and Carmel Moran were first placed Juniors on the night and for the series. Jamie Naden and Karin Magog were first placed Seniors on the night and for the series. Steve Crowe was first on the night but Karl Telfer, who couldn't compete due to a finger injury, had amassed enough points to win the series. Full series results are here. Reported 10th February 2010

JUNIOR MALE
1 Tom Rookes 120
2 Sam Brannigan 110
3 Michael Haley 50
   
JUNIOR FEMALE
1 Carmel Moran 130
2 Kathryn Burke 114
3 Tiffany Murray 100
   
MALE
1 Jamie Naden 160
2 Daniel Cooney 137
3 Jack Wilson 114
   
FEMALE
1 Karin Magog  187
2 Sophia Ballantine  136
3 Kathryn Burke 117
   
VET MALE
1 Steve Crowe 151
2 Jimbo Hunter  150
3 Mick Gardener  147

 

 

 
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Bouldering Competition Time Again. Allcord Bouldering Series at Sunderland Wall, Round Three will be at 5pm on Monday 8th February 2010, Activities will start at 5pm and finish promptly at 9pm! Then its full on recovery in time for the 4th and penultimate round of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series on Friday 12th February, starting at 1pm until 9pm to try 35 problems from very easy to ridiculously hard, with a guaranteed £500 of prizes to be raffled at the end of the night. Now some advance notice: Last year's Annual Spring Boulder Open at Climb Newcastle was a terrific success, with a fantastic qualification round leading to a spectacular final fought out by the top male and female climbers. This year's ASBO promises to be just as memorable, keep this date free in your diary... Friday 23rd April... more details to follow.  Reported 8th February 2010

The scores are tight, your best four results count!

 

 
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New Routes at the Newcastle Climbing Centre. The route setters have been very busy creating 25 stunning new routes for you to lead & top rope on and 4 new bouldering circuits. The manager Mark Goodings on behalf of the Newcastle Climbing Centre would like to thank customers for there patience during this route setting period. The centre is also the current host to the BMC leading ladder so get down NOW and tick of the 10 routes from 6a to 8a. Rockworks Climbing is a specialist climbing equipment store within the Newcastle Climbing Centre. You can order your gear online and get the goods delivered to your door or alternatively collect from the climbing centre. Reported 4th February 2010

 

 
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Fort William 2010 Mountain Festival. Fort William has announced a Mountain Festival programme, presented by The Outdoor Capital of the UK, that will put Fort William and Lochaber at the forefront of Scotland's events programme in February. The 2010 Fort William Mountain Festival programme of new events and old favourites will take place throughout Fort William from Thursday 11th to Monday 15th February; during the best winter walking and climbing conditions of the year.

Mike Pescod, Chairman of the Highland Mountain Culture Association, organisers of the Festival, said: 'Above all the 2010 Fort William Mountain Festival programme promotes the mountains as an attractive, accessible and above all enjoyable place to be. It includes a superb line up of top climbers, mountain filmmakers, inspirational speakers and creative workshops. It caters for everyone of all ages from elite climbers to outdoor enthusiasts and hill walkers to budding wildlife photographers. 'This celebration of mountain culture, showcasing the huge range of outdoor activity opportunities available to visitors to Fort William and Locahaber, is the vision of The Outdoor Capital of the UK. The OCUK presents the Mountain Festival with essential financial backing and logistical support that has guaranteed the delivery of the Festival for the next three years. We look forward to working with the OCUK and its members in order to build a stronger and more sustainable events programme in the future.'

Organisers have promised a five day feast of films, lectures and workshops for residents and visitors who want to learn about and celebrate mountain culture. The varied and entertaining programme includes:

- 'Party at Nevis Range' - The official opening ceilidh, 2150ft up Aonach Mor, beside Ben Nevis, for an amazing party with altitude! Thursday 11 February
- Victory Over Reason: Adventures On The Eiger, El Cap, Patagonia And The Caledonian Canal - A funny and insightful talk about the last 12 months in the life of legendary big-wall climber Andy Kirkpatrick - including a fraught attempted winter solo of the Eiger Direct, sea kayaking in Patagonia, taking a novice climber who couldn't walk up El Cap and a trip down the Caledonian Canal! Friday 12th February
- Climbers I've Shot And Some I'd Like To Shoot - Scotland based multi-awarding winning adventure filmmaker Paul Diffley will entertain his audience with a mixture of chat, photos and video clips. Paul will also show 'Single-Handed', the award-winning film about Kevin Shields, the 'one handed climber'. Saturday 13th February
- Jimmy Marshall: The Architect Of Modern Scottish Climbing. An evening to celebrate the incredible achievements of Jimmy Marshall and fellow climber Robin Smith when, in February 1960, they climbed six first winter ascents of Ben Nevis on consecutive days. The fact that they achieved this by cutting steps up the snow and ice appears, from the remove of the 21st century, to be almost impossible. Exactly 50 years on to the day two legends of modern Scottish climbing, Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner, will repeat what has been described as the most important week of Scottish climbing ever! (6 - 13 February). Dave and Andy will present their experiences with film clips of the ascents (filmed by Phil Diffley), comparing the 21st Century experience of climbing the same routes using state of the art equipment and techniques with Jimmy's recollections of the first ascents. This is a must for all climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. Sunday 14th February
- The Best of Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour - From jaw dropping action to fascinating mountain culture and wildlife the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour has it all. The most inspiring mountain films from around the world will once again be the festival hot ticket. Monday 15 February

The 2010 Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture will be awarded to this year's winner on Sunday 14 February. The prestigious award that celebrates outstanding contributions to Scotland's mountains, encompassing sport, theatre, art, photography, film and literature was first introduced in 2008. World-renowned climber and pioneer, Dr Hamish MacInnes, and award winning filmmaker and documentary producer Richard Else were the recipients in 2008 and 2009 respectively.

Children and adults will have the opportunity to try out new activities and learn new skills through inspirational daily mountain skills workshops during the Festival. Highly experienced and fully qualified guides from Abacus Mountaineering, in conjunction with Nevis Range, will lead full day courses in avalanche awareness, winter walking and winter climbing. Kinlochleven's Ice Factor Indoor Climbing Centre will be offering taster sessions in indoor climbing and ice climbing throughout the festival. For those keen to explore their creative ideas in a stimulating environment Nevis Pix will run a one day wildlife photography workshop and Wild West Safaris will offer a Red Deer Safari during the Festival. This will be a great opportunity to not only get up close and personal with the herds of red deer at Loch Quoich but also the possibility of photographing Golden Eagles and Goldeneye Ducks. If the kids are tempted by the opportunity of cooking their own soup and making their own sandwiches followed by a wet muddy walk then the Forestry Commission Scotland's Wet Winter Welly Walk will be their Festival highlight.  For full details of the Fort William Mountain Festival programme and to book tickets go to - http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk
Reported 27th January 2010
 

 
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Red Chili Rock Shoe Demo at The Newcastle Climbing Centre on Tuesday 26th January 2010. Try the new Matador and Urban Climber rock shoes for the evening and enter a prize draw to win the pair of your choice! Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details. Also the bouldering comp results are here. Reported 25th January 2010

 
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The Junior British Climbing Team will be in the North East on 23rd and 24th January. "We will spend the day at Climb Newcastle on the Saturday and at Newcastle Climbing Centre on the Sunday. This is the first time the Team has trained in the North East perhaps something to do with team manager Ian Dunn being from Hartlepool and me coming from Barnard Castle. We have 40 on the team. Five of the team members are in a new Elite category and will be given the opportunity to compete in a full European Youth Series." Jane Newman, assistant manager. Reported 20th January 2010
 

 
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Newcastle Climbing Centre. Get down this Friday evening 5pm till 9.30pm for the second round of the Cassin & Camp Boulder Comp your best two scores count so you haven’t missed out on the prizes. Its free all you pay is your entry fee – all score cards in by 9.30pm. Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details. Reported 18th January 2010

 

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Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series Results. A huge entry battled it out on another great set of 35 problems. Nigel Callender amassed a terrific score of 328 to win ahead of Rich Gill. Charlotte Telfer surprised everyone with her excellent result ahead of Karin Magog meanwhile Steve Crowe surprised himself by narrowly beating Martin Waugh (who should have known better, climbing with that injured shoulder) and Charlottes dad Karl Telfer in the old mans category. Sid Graham scored a fantastic 237 as first Junior female, while first Junior male, Tom Rookes with 290 points was also joint 7th overall.   Reported 18th January 2010

       
Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series 2009/2010
  Adult Male       Adult Female       Junior Female       Vet Female  
1 Nigel Callender 328   1 Charlotte Telfer 297   1 Sidonie Graham 237   1 Helen Wells 141
2 Rich Gill 313   2 Karin Magog 287   2 Bethany Walton 220   2 Ann Cranke  130
3 Paul Smith 301   3 Libby Barrow  277                
4 Jacob Handyside 295   4 Rachel Hoyland 261     Junior Male       Vet Male  
5 Ben Gilbert 293   5 Kate Watson 258   1 Tom Rookes 290   1 Steve Crowe 290
6 Ben Wilson 290   6 Sian Oakley 257   2 Patrick Buchan 251   2 Martin Waugh 288