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Apple Tree

 

 

Apple Tree Rocks

OS Map reference: SE 586966
Aspect: West
Altitude: 290m
Approach: 25 minutes

Situation and Character
An expansive collection of boulders strewn across the edge of Bilsdale East Moor in Tripsdale. The rock is good quality sandstone and features strong lines with some great features. The boulders are all located on the hillside below the moor and stretch for just short of a mile. The rock stays clean with good landings throughout and the whole venue is easily accessible with a small path which runs along the top. Can also be combined with Low Water Stones further south with other venues close by including Tarn Hole and High Crag. These rocks have been climbed on for years by various different parties but nothing was recorded until early 2014. There are possibilities for variations and other problems to be added to what is already described here. Some holds may need a brush.

 

 

Access and Approaches
Park at the large lay-by near The Grange about 2 miles south of the village of Chop Gate on the B1257 Helmsley to Great Broughton road. Walk south and take the first farm track on the left on the opposite side of the road where there are usually several large bins. Take the first left for High Cow Helm farm and follow the track over a series of cattle grids. Once into the farm, turn right at a T-junction and go through several gates. Follow the track out of the farm yard and up to a stile just after two barns and just before Apple Tree Hurst Farm. Go over the stile and cross the field to take a diagonal path up the hillside. The first boulder is just off to the right with the others further north. Please make sure you close any gates behind you, specifically through Cow Helm Farm. The first boulder is about 25 minutes from the car with the others being between 30 - 35 minutes. No problems with access have been reported.

All problems are described from left to right but each area is listed as it is approached. The first boulder is obvious about 250m above Apple Tree Hurst Farm and a short way off the main approach.

The Apple
 

© Steven Phelps


1. Maiden's Blush 6b+
Start sitting from a left hand crimp at the left of the break and right hand on the ledge. Pop up to a right hand crimp and finish up the blunt arÍte. There's a possible project to the left.

2. Harvest 6c *
Start sitting with the break for the left hand and a mono for the right hand about 2m to the right. A fierce pull may gain better holds and a bonus pocket on the top.

3. Harvest - Right Variation 6c
Sit start at the same place but instead of using the pocket with the right hand, use it for the left hand instead.

4. Single Variant 5+
Start from sitting at the break near the arÍte. Pull onto the wall to a pocket and reach up for better holds near the top.

5. Apple Tree ArÍte 4+ *
Follow the left side of the uphill arÍte from sitting.

Get back onto the main diagonal path that cuts up the hillside. After 100m turn left at an obvious tree in a delve and take a faint path which follows the moor edge.

 

 

Cowhelm View

The first area is about 250m north and is the first obvious set of boulders reached.

 

© Steven Phelps


6. Taj 5
From sitting, follow the lip of the easy angled arÍte of the smaller block rightwards to an awkward finish.

7. Head Honcho 6a+ *
Start from sitting on the wall of the larger block. Use a flake for the left hand and the break for the right hand to reach the top. Mantel to finish.

8. Aramiac 6a *
From sitting just right, reach the top just using the break. Mantel to finish again.

9. Pariah 4
From sitting, climb the right end of the small roof to a slopey finish.

10. Lhasa 3
Mantel the short wall at a ledge.

 

 

Central Boulders
The next area is across the first large gully encountered about 60m to the north, take the top path to reach it. The first problems are located on the edge at the top.

Chile Slab Area
 

© Steven Phelps


1. Santiago 3+
The left side of the slab.

2. Tierra del Fuego 3
The right side of the slab.

3. Holey War 6b+ *
The problem on the block to the right. From sitting, start with an obvious left hand crimp edge and the hole with your right hand. Pull onto the wall with good footwork and with some adjustment, reach for the top.


Walk down the hill to the next boulder and the highlight of the central section.


The AA Boulder

 

© Steven Phelps

 


4. Breakdown 5+ *
The left edge of the wall using the central ledge. The wall to the right is a project.

5. Recovery 6c ***
Take the left side of the arÍte from sitting on small edges and sloping holds. From standing is 5.

6. Right Side Recovery 5 *
The right side of the arÍte.
 

Martin Parker climbing Recovery 6c © Steven Phelps


7. Hard Shoulder 5
Just right of the arÍte on slopers and sidepulls.

8. Sunset 5+
The left edge of the slab to the right.

9. Suntan 6a
Make delicate moves up the right side of the slab.

Just below here are two more decent sized boulders.

Cuban Boulder
 

© Steven Phelps


10. Anarchist 5+
The left edge of the boulder using hugging techniques.

11. Miguel 4
Climb the scoop using a faint ramp via a pocket near the top. A sit start at a pocket and rocking over into the scoop is 6b.

12. Rogue State 6a *
From sitting, pull onto the wall using a low flake only. Make a long reach for the top.

13. Fidel Castro 6b *
The thin hanging crackline without the embedded block for feet from sitting.

14. Havana 2
The scoop to the right using the ledge and a pocket.

The Bones Slab

 

© Steven Phelps

15. Back Bone 5
The left side of the arÍte on the left side of the block from sitting.

16. Big Boned 3
Mount the slab using pockets and climb direct.

17. Bones Jones 3
Move up the centre on sloping ledges.

18. Bone Idle 4+ *
Start at two eye holes and move up rightwards.

19. Uninvited 6c **
Sit start from a large slot pocket under the overhang. Move up to a side sloper before using a sloping pocket near the top to finish. This can also be finished by rocking round leftwards once at the side sloper is reached at a lower grade.


The next area is reached by moving back up to the top path and crossing another deep gully. Just below the edge of the moor is a bunch of trees where the next problems lie.


Under The Tree

 

© Steven Phelps

1. Tree Traverse 6c+ *
From sitting, traverse from left to right along the lip. Finish as for Sparta.

2. Slot and Mantel 6b+ *
From sitting, use the slot on the wall to gain the top and make a awkward mantel to finish.

3. Sparta 5+
From sitting, use a small left hand pocket and a hold on the lip to reach better holds over the top.

The next boulder is obvious across to the north perched on the hillside. The Pomace is just north of this on the same level.

Satisfaction Boulder
 

© Steven Phelps


4. Shades 5+
From sitting, climb the nose until a layback can be achieved to finish.

5. Newton Wonder 6b+ **
Start with hands in a slot from sitting. Move direct using the deep break and crimps to an awkward top out.

6. Saturn 5+ *
From sitting, start about 2m to the right at a good ledge hold on the slab. Using the block underneath for the feet, pull up leftwards to the obvious hole and finish direct using anything else along the way.

7. Revelations 6c *
Start sitting as for the last problem on the ledge hold and the block to the left for feet again. Reach up for a crimp rail on the slab, bring your feet up and pop for the top. Around the same grade from standing.

Other problems could be done on the slab and using holds to the right but the ledge below the slab make things artificial.

The Pomace

 

© Steven Phelps


8. Venus 6a *
From sitting, start just right of the embedded block at a vague rib. Use the break and the main block only for the feet, pop for the lip then mantel to finish.

9. Pomace 6c+ *
Start sitting just right at lowest part of the block with your hands on the lip. Traverse leftwards using the lip with the climbing easing as you get around the corner. There's a possibility for more problems on the roof over to the right.

 

Northern Boulders

The next area is again reached by using the top path and is about 300m to the north. If you reach a walled enclosure along the top you've gone too far. The first problems are on the obvious edge wall where there are some excellent offerings.

Long Wall

 

Martin Parker climbing Long Wall ArÍte 6c © Steven Phelps

1. Long Wall ArÍte   6c   ***
The right side of the left arÍte from sitting. Make some excellent moves to a direct finish. From standing is slightly easier.
 

2. Problem Two   6c   **
From sitting, start on two high crimps. Gain the undercut pocket and finish direct via the upper slot. From standing is 6a.

3. Problem Three   6b+   *
From sitting, move out through the left side of the overhang. Finish direct via crimps and another pocket.

4. Limelight   6c
Start from sitting on pockets to gain the undercut. Finish via two pockets and a slopey topout.

The next problems are on the small tower below.

Ice Cream Block
 

© Steven Phelps

 

5. Foxtrot 4
Climb the small slab on the left side.

6. Neopolitan 6a *
Climb the front face using both arÍtes to an awkward finish. Using the left arÍte only is a project.

7. Cider Press 5
Climb the right face of the block starting on a good ledge.

Just below Long Wall are two blocks which are a bit sandy. The first is a slab which on closer inspection is fairly disappointing but the easy angled arÍte on the next block on its right side is worthwhile and is imaginatively named: Easy Angle 5. Back up and hidden just to the south is another part of the edge which may hold more than the current problem which is: Knobbed Russet 5 From sitting, climb the first layaway feature using a pocket.

Back just north to the last set of boulders just before the fenced off area. The first problems start on the large lower boulder.

A Block
 

© Steven Phelps


1. Foxwhelp Scoop 5
Climb the scoop direct without either arÍte/edge. The sit start is a project.

2. Cartoon Skunk 6c+ *

Start from sitting at the good hold on the left side of the main wall. Using the layaway crack, gain the slab using thin pockets.

3.Bloody Ploughman 6c
Start from sitting at the good hold again. Move right on crimps and edges and finish direct just right of the crack.

4. Variety Show Leg Ends 6c+
Start from sitting once more at the good hold. Traverse rightwards across the wall to finish up the bulge. Climbing straight over the bulge from standing is 5+.

5. Le Renard 6b+ *
From sitting, use holds just beneath the slanting crackline to finish rightwards.

Back up the hill to the next obvious boulder.

B Block (Twin arÍtes)

 

© Steven Phelps

6. Hound of Love 6c *
Follow the right arÍte from sitting to the apex and a hold just out of view. Finish by rocking over onto the slab to the top. The left arÍte is a project.

About 5m right of this is a small block with the final problems.

C Block

 

© Steven Phelps

7. Lord Lambourne 6a
The left arÍte starting with a useful pocket from sitting.

8. Hunt 5
Climb the undercut wall using a blunt flake from sitting.

Although there are more boulders just visible to the north just beyond the wire fence, it is private land and there is no access. If you would like to visit Tarn Hole from here, then go back up onto the moor and around the walled enclosure to follow the vague path north for half a mile.